RODI auto shut off pressure

[Seefour]

After figuring out every single way to not hook up an auto shut off valve, I finally have it correct. My only concern is that it seems to take quite a but of pressure in order to trip the valve to turn off the waste water. Enough pressure in fact that if I lift the float valve up without the cover on my container, water will shoot all the way across the room in a very fine mist. Is this normal?

Input pressure at the membrane is a steady 65psi and does not increase when the float valve shuts off the output.

 

[SquidwardTentacles]

65 psi is pretty high. Try 42 psi at the most and see how that works.

 

[pascal32]

That doesn't sound right. Go another round to make sure everything is hooked up right.

 

[jfl14609]

that definitely seems off the only other thing I can think of is you have extremely high pressure in the house. I finally just put a shut off on the feed side and did it manually after i went through 3 shutoffs

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

the problem

the problem

:spin3:

 

[Willistein]

It sounds to me like the float valve is clogged? pressure sounds fine.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

65 psi is fine. Higher pressure is actually more desirable - it leads to better product rates. Many of the membranes we use in the hobby are spec'd at or near 65 psi at any rate. Heck, Pascal had a thread recently where he was using a booster pump to get close to 100psi, iirc.

My bet is on either incorrect plumbing, or something's wrong with the float valve. Can you post a photo of the device?

 

[Willistein]

Right - a mist would indicate a really tiny hole, i.e. a partially clogged hole. 65psi is definitely not the problem.

 

[cuch]

The higher pressure is better!Check the line is not cut at a angle so it has a good fit i nside valve this will cause the pressure to drop and not open valve if not!

 

[Seefour]

So basically it's not normal for the output pressure to raise to the input pressure once the float valve shuts off the line, is what everyone is saying?

The fine mist is from uncapping the pressurized line a small amount.

Also, when the waste line is shut down, it still drips water very slowly.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Where exactly is the auto shutoff located? Can you list the brands/models of the shutoff, the RO/DI unit itself, and the float valve?

Or just show a photo?

 

[Seefour]

Here is my setup.
BRS 4 stage RODI
BRS Auto shut off valve
US plastic float valve

The blue in the picture keeps coming out fuzzy but it should say "0 tds water in" on the right and "to Brute can with valve" on left.

Thanks for the help.

 

[pascal32]

look right.

on mine:

(#1) "In" - from pre-filter
(#2) "Out" to capped end of RO filter
(#3) from output of RO filter
(#4) to DI or holding bin

 

[Seefour]

I believe I solved the problem if there even was one. I cleaned up some of the connections so the dripping waste line would go away, and after the inner workings of the valve were explained to me by a LFS, it was determined that the pressure is needed to trip the valve.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Those hydraulic shut off valve trip when the water in the tube reaching your float valve reaches about 67% of the feedwater pressure. So if your feedwater is 65 psi, it would shut off when the pressure in the line to the float reached about 43 psi.

I couldn't read your labels on the pic so can't comment on how you have it plumbed.

Russ

 

[Seefour]

That makes sense Russ. I think mine is right on par then. Thanks for all the help everyone!