RODI -go green! no more waste water!

Finchie

New member
Im starting this thread in response to all the waste water interests I have seen popping up lately on RC. Im sure plenty of people on this forum already use a similar DI resin system like mine, but I just wanted to point it out to all the RO users out there- that there is a better more efficient way to get good clean water for your reef tank without all the time and waste water that comes with using RO filters

Wana go green? get rid of your RO and double up your DI, the little bit of extra money you have to pay for replacing your DI more often is worth all the hassle and makes up for your water bill anyways. Also since your using more DI resin you can buy bulk and save even more money. I usually buy a big enough bag of DIresin for at least 7 refills and this lasts me awhile and makes allot of good water. I don't have to worry about waste water because I never have any. Also for those looking to really save money some DI resins can be reused but I have never done this personally.

I don't understand why people waste there time, water, and money with RO filters. Especially the people with large tanks, must take forever to make enough water for a single water change let alone the constant need to top off, and the hassle of worrying with the waste water. Whats the average waste water ratio using an RO filter 4 to 1- that is ridiculous and pricey for your water and or sewage bill.

This is what I did, I modified my 2 rodi filter systems into an effective prefilter system before my dual DI filter, this setup works great for me. I took out the ro filters and replaced them with inline sediment filters for added prefiltration. The best part is I get zero waste water and zero ppm as long as I keep the filters clean and replace/rotate them on time and in the correct order. The water passes through 8 filters ( sediments,carbon blocks, Gac's, inline sediment's) before even entering my dual Di filter. I can make 200 + gallons of 0 ppm water in like a half hour lol

The best tip I can give for a setup like this is to get two units so you can alternate them when you change out your filters- always using the dirty unit first and then let the water travel through the second cleaner unit containing the fresher filters. This way you have a very efficient prefilter that can be rotated to get the most life out of your filters . SO you get water with a very low ppm before the dual DI and then you don't burn through the DI resin as quickly. Also rotate the dual DIresin filters in the same order so you can use the DI resin until its completely exhausted saving you money. A tds meter with two probes is awesome for a setup like this, it helps you know when its time to change and rotate the prefilters, and the DI resin giving you a maximum yield of good clean water for your fish and coral.

I store my water in large containers and I run a Uv sterilizer in these storage tanks to prevent mold this keeps my water clean, and fresh. This is one of the best times to use a Uv filter imo. It doesn't take much time at all for me to fill up both my 100 gallon storage tanks. I then treat the water with prime just to be safe before adding the water to my tanks.

Hope this helps somebody out, maybe I should draw up a diagram or something . What do you guys and gals think about going green with a DI system? :)
 
I love it :love2: You should do a video regarding this.. I use my waste water to do my laundry 10 gals of RO/DI = 1 full load
 
I am in the process of doing something similar, if you can go into detail a little more it would help me a lot, and also can you post pics of your set up?
 
Interesting idea.

Registered in Feb 2005 and this is only your third post?!?!?

Some just like to research and not post.. Look at me from May 2008 and not even close to 100 post :wave:

But this will be a great thread.. We always want to go green
 
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How fast is the water going through the filters.
I have been talking about this with another reefer.
After the first di the phosphate is still there .
It need to pass through two di's to read zero.
Big deal the tds number is zero when the water isn't clean.
 
This might work for folks with soft water sources, but where I am a DI cartridge on its own might only last 30-50 gallons because our water has 200-300ppm calcium out of the tap. Hardness is like around 17-20 dGH in my parts due to limestone bedrock... I used a strictly DI based filter for a while (AP Tap Water Purifier) and it makes about 30 gallons of water from the tap for $30 cartridge. That is completely out of the question and FAR more expensive than an RO/DI system. Water is dirt cheap(edit:relatively cheap compared to dry regions of NA) where I am; Ontario has more freshwater than most of the world, so its pretty inexpensive.

I'm sure it would work just fine in Northern Ontario, where bedrock is granite and the water is soft as a baby's bottom. Moot point though; the water is still pure enough to use straight from the tap in those parts. :D I'm sure there are certain places where this method would be similar in cost to a RO/DI system.

What I'm trying to say here is that the effectiveness of a system like this is highly dependant on the qualities of your source water.

Also, if you are using large amounts of DI resin - deinfately check out recharging them, its not difficult and can be done many many times to the same resin.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php
 
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water

water

(Water is dirt cheap where I am; Ontario has more freshwater than most of the world, so its pretty inexpensive.)

im only 35 minuets from toronto and water sure isnt dirt cheep here in burlington. im running about 1000g and top off water alone is 4 gallons per 24 hr. not to mention 200 gallon water changes per month.
 
Quick Question

I thought DI doesn't remove silica that much, and RO removes it by 98%?

And since red slime is fuel by silica, its bad to have it in the tank?
 
the guys that walk around town reading the meters are getting payed $30 per hr. plus a life time of full benifits and pention. and thats just the meter reader guy....water is big bucks.
 
(Water is dirt cheap where I am; Ontario has more freshwater than most of the world, so its pretty inexpensive.)

im only 35 minuets from toronto and water sure isnt dirt cheep here in burlington. im running about 1000g and top off water alone is 4 gallons per 24 hr. not to mention 200 gallon water changes per month.

lol I have a small tank...so...yeah you would be into some expsensive bills with a tank that large. Certainly its cheaper than lets say arizona or california?
 
water

water

lol yes agreed. big differance. maybe if i got a job with the water company i could afford to have so much wast water
 
Separate anion and cation bed deionization units can be recharged using fairly inexpensive though somewhat nasty chemicals (lye and hydrochloric acid). The resins themselves can be re-used many times making it extremely cost effective for large amounts of water production. In the chem labs in my university this is how the DI water was made and it literally came out of a tap; there was no RO involved. Here in the US Culligan will set up and maintain such systems for commercial outfits but the price is high because they do all the work (they change out the beds for you and do the resin recharging at their facility). There used to be commercial units on the market for fishkeepers that worked like this too (Kati/Ani). Is this not common knowledge?
 
Interesting idea.

Registered in Feb 2005 and this is only your third post?!?!?


I have been away from RC for awhile lol...More details and a simple diagram when I get home from work tonight.

This might work for folks with soft water sources, but where I am a DI cartridge on its own might only last 30-50 gallons because our water has 200-300ppm calcium out of the tap. Hardness is like around 17-20 dGH in my parts due to limestone bedrock... I used a strictly DI based filter for a while (AP Tap Water Purifier) and it makes about 30 gallons of water from the tap for $30 cartridge. That is completely out of the question and FAR more expensive than an RO/DI system. Water is dirt cheap(edit:relatively cheap compared to dry regions of NA) where I am; Ontario has more freshwater than most of the world, so its pretty inexpensive.

I'm sure it would work just fine in Northern Ontario, where bedrock is granite and the water is soft as a baby's bottom. Moot point though; the water is still pure enough to use straight from the tap in those parts. :D I'm sure there are certain places where this method would be similar in cost to a RO/DI system.

What I'm trying to say here is that the effectiveness of a system like this is highly dependant on the qualities of your source water.

Also, if you are using large amounts of DI resin - deinfately check out recharging them, its not difficult and can be done many many times to the same resin.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-09/nftt/index.php

acropora1981- You make some good points about the source water, but I dont think you can compare my filter set up to the crappy AP tap water purifier. The Prefilter before the DI is very very limited. And that is the trick with a set up like mine you must have extensive prefiltration before the DI.

Also I just wanted to point out that my father inlaw has extensive knowledge in Water filtration, he works at TMI on giant rodi systems for the power plant - he helped me set this up. Even though my water source is not very hard. He installed a top of the line water softer at our house so this helps also, since I tap into the source after the Water softner.

ttyl peeps
 
I look at this kind of like the coal fired electric cars- water is easy to recycle while the production of the resins and their recharging chemicals is likely much more damaging to produce and dispose of. That being said I have also used DI only systems in certain circumstances and they work very well- your setup seems well thought out. I just don`t think its greener than RO and perhaps less so.
 
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