rodi storage

M

mitch303

New member
alright so i have a extra 30 gallon brute food grade trash can that i would like to use as a storage tub. I want to put a float valve on it so it is always full instead of filling 5 gallon buckets all the time. what i want to do is put the trash can on some kind of stand so it is high enough to put a 5 gallon bucket underneath it to fill up and dump into my mixing trashcan when needed. So is there a way to drill a hole on the bottom side of the trashcan and use a bulkhead or something with some kind of shut off valve so when i need water i can turn the valve on and fill up my buckets?
 
Yes, but why not just put in a small powerhead with tubing in your can? Just plug it in and fill your bucket. That way, there is no hole that might possibly leak. The RO/DI will have a float valve if you use one, that's easy to connect to the brute.
 
It does not hurt for a more thorough mix. If you keep the hose connected, just pull out the end and fill 'er up.

I use a mag 3 for mixing in my brute, hose for filling.
 
The stand is a two-by-four frame with a piece of plywood on top. All the wood working is with scrap wood and wood screws put in with a cordless drill. Very easy to make. The trash can is food contact safe bought from a restaurant supply store, Cash&Carry. Hole drilled with a hole saw, uniseal from Salty Critter and pvc fittings from Ace Hardware.
standforcan003.jpg
 
cherubfish pair said:
The stand is a two-by-four frame with a piece of plywood on top. All the wood working is with scrap wood and wood screws put in with a cordless drill. Very easy to make. The trash can is food contact safe bought from a restaurant supply store, Cash&Carry. Hole drilled with a hole saw, uniseal from Salty Critter and pvc fittings from Ace Hardware.
Click to expand...

Very nice. What size uniseal did you go with?
 
I am in the process of installing a float valve in my brute trashcan for my RO/DI unit. I have had one too many floods due to my forgetfulness. I like the idea of installing a spout at the bottom to get water easier
 
I set mine up with 1" uniseals and ball valves to allow me to have top off water on the left and salt on the right. I can change the combination to have my pump just circulate salt mix water or pump from fresh to the top of the salt water. This pic isn't of the finshed product but you get the idea.


Untitled by iadubber, on Flickr
 
I just use a submersible pump and pump from one container to the other. It's a lot easier on the back.
 
cherubfish pair said:
The stand is a two-by-four frame with a piece of plywood on top. All the wood working is with scrap wood and wood screws put in with a cordless drill. Very easy to make. The trash can is food contact safe bought from a restaurant supply store, Cash&Carry. Hole drilled with a hole saw, uniseal from Salty Critter and pvc fittings from Ace Hardware.
standforcan003.jpg
Click to expand...

is that a copper valve?
 
iadubber said:
I set mine up with 1" uniseals and ball valves to allow me to have top off water on the left and salt on the right. I can change the combination to have my pump just circulate salt mix water or pump from fresh to the top of the salt water. This pic isn't of the finshed product but you get the idea.
Click to expand...
What's the purpose of the ball valves and connecting the 2 containers with PVC?
 
ryeguyy84 said:
is that a copper valve?
Click to expand...
Was thinking the same this earlier. I once used a copper valve in my sump for something and was worried it was leaching copper back into the water, however after a in-depth talk with Seachem I was advised a copper valve would not leach cooper out; however I still ended up replacing it later.
 
ASpec said:
Was thinking the same this earlier. I once used a copper valve in my sump for something and was worried it was leaching copper back into the water, however after a in-depth talk with Seachem I was advised a copper valve would not leach cooper out; however I still ended up replacing it later.
Click to expand...

I am very surprised you were told that by Seachem. Copper oxidizes rapidly in saltwater. Call me paranoid, but I'd never put a brass, copper or any other type of metal plumbing part in contact with my topoff, mixing storage or tank plumbing. PVC ball and gate valves are safe and widely available.
 
seapug said:
I am very surprised you were told that by Seachem. Copper oxidizes rapidly in saltwater. Call me paranoid, but I'd never put a brass, copper or any other type of metal plumbing part in contact with my topoff, mixing storage or tank plumbing. PVC ball and gate valves are safe and widely available.
Click to expand...
I agree. I now only use PVC for connections. I was considering using the Seachem product cupramine, so I called them to discuss it's usage and various other issues and we got into a in depth conversation that there was no need for me to use cupramine as the fitting/valve would not have leached cooper into my water. I tested for copper several times with various manufactures test kits and all came back at 0 so I ended up not using cupramine.

Even still, I don't use brass or copper fittings for anything reef related any longer. :)
 
Last edited:
I placed my Brute on top of a 35 gallon drum that I'm not currently using. Stuck a bulkhead+pvc fittings at the bottom and a hole with a float valve at the top. Has never leaked.

DSC_0005.jpg

DSC_0006.jpg
 
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