Rodi under sink install question.

I have this rodi system.

and need all new filters and noticed the ones from different retalers are different from each other. can I use a brs 5 stage pack with a awi rodi? the one from brs has 2 of the same blocks


 
Just go to ace hardware and get a refrigerator line kit. It’ll come with the T- adapter valve, as well as 6 feet of the 1/4” push fit tubing for your RO unit
 
I have this rodi system.

and need all new filters and noticed the ones from different retalers are different from each other. can I use a brs 5 stage pack with a awi rodi? the one from brs has 2 of the same blocks


As long as they’re all 10” filters, they are interchangeable.
 
I have another question. Here is a photo of my system. I was wondering how the di bypass works. I read and still didnt quite understand. Why is it not on the opposite end of the t? And if di water is making it to the di valve wouldn't it also make it to the ro valve?
Screenshot_20240303_224956_Simple Scanner.jpg
 
I have another question. Here is a photo of my system. I was wondering how the di bypass works. I read and still didnt quite understand. Why is it not on the opposite end of the t? And if di water is making it to the di valve wouldn't it also make it to the ro valve?View attachment 32397561
The purpose for that valve is to open it at the beginning for say 10 minutes to have all the produced water go to waste. This is because of 'TDS creep' which is a normal issue with all RO systems where the initial water has very high TDS on the product side. If you ran it straight into the DI it would use up your resin very quickly. Rather than manually discarding the initial 'RO only' water (that's what I do) they are just giving you a way to route it directly to waste.

If this system doesn't include any TDS meter I suggest yoiu add a dual inline meter (HM digital) so you can see what's happening (one sensor after RO and one sensor after DI).
 
The purpose for that valve is to open it at the beginning for say 10 minutes to have all the produced water go to waste. This is because of 'TDS creep' which is a normal issue with all RO systems where the initial water has very high TDS on the product side. If you ran it straight into the DI it would use up your resin very quickly. Rather than manually discarding the initial 'RO only' water (that's what I do) they are just giving you a way to route it directly to waste.

If this system doesn't include any TDS meter I suggest yoiu add a dual inline meter (HM digital) so you can see what's happening (one sensor after RO and one sensor after DI).
Couldn't have said it better myself ;)
 
The purpose for that valve is to open it at the beginning for say 10 minutes to have all the produced water go to waste. This is because of 'TDS creep' which is a normal issue with all RO systems where the initial water has very high TDS on the product side. If you ran it straight into the DI it would use up your resin very quickly. Rather than manually discarding the initial 'RO only' water (that's what I do) they are just giving you a way to route it directly to waste.

If this system doesn't include any TDS meter I suggest yoiu add a dual inline meter (HM digital) so you can see what's happening (one sensor after RO and one sensor after DI).
oh I see.. so di water doesnt make it here. its just to drain system before going through di. the system has the meters built on.

last question. can I run the ro drain directly to a faucet or does it need to go to a ro tank then to faucet
 
So, many moons ago I was blowing through DI resin like crazy. Then I learned about TDS creep.

As Sean mentioned, when the system sits idle, all the gunk the RO membrane took out, seeps back into the water in the membrane housing. If you don’t bypass/flush that water out of the system it will deplete your resin very fast.

Here’s what I do. I keep a 20 gallon container of RODI water. When I need to make water, I open the DI bypass and flush the membrane/housing for 5-10 minutes until the TDS coming out if it drops. Then, close the bypass, let the water go through the DI and fill my storage container. Once full, I turn off the supply water to the system.

Hope that helps.
 
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So, many moons ago I was blowing through DI resin like crazy. Then I learned about TDS creep.

As Sean mentioned, when the system sits idle, all the gunk the RO membrane took out, seeps back into the water in the membrane housing. If you don’t bypass/flush that water out of the system it will deplete your resin very fast.

Here’s what I do. I keep a 20 gallon container of RODI water. When I need to make water, I open the DI bypass and flush the membrane/housing for 5-10 minutes until the TDS coming out if it drops. Then, close the bypass, let the water go through the DI and fill my storage container. Once full, I turn off the supply water to the system.

Hope that helps.
Yes. Thanks. So water to system off when not in use. Flush water before use.

Got it!
 
So what about just for ro water? Do I need to flush before drinking ro? Because I just ordered a ro drinking water add on with in line filter.
 
So what about just for ro water? Do I need to flush before drinking ro? Because I just ordered a ro drinking water add on with in line filter.
Not sure about that. I had a drinking water kit for my system a long, long time ago before I learned about TDS creep. I didn’t flush before that. That said, we have extremely good tap water (for drinking) where I live.
 
So I learned a very valuable lesson trying to install my first rodi.

never buy used equipment unless you are prepared to hook it up immediately or have the ability to check it immediately.

I bought an air water and ice typhoon III extreme on reef central about 7-8 years ago. never checked it.

So here I am trying to hook it up and finding out part after part needs to be fixed, or replaced. the canisters had missing o rings. the ro membrane has a leak that even a new oring wouldnt fix. the tds meter doesnt work. the pressure gauge fitting is busted and leaking. the membrane that came with it needs to be replaced. I end up buying all new filters, membrane, membrane housing, new orings. tubing, tees.now I need a 2nd membrane. I got the reef saver 150gpd upgrade kit and added facuet kit. thought I could use the orginal 75gpd membrane to do the upgrade. Im almost to the piont in cost that it wouldve been less expensive to buy a brand new 6 stage with facuet from brs.

I actually already bought the brs 7 stage 200gpd a few months ago but didnt want to use that in this apartment and plus its too big to go under my sink.

also the apartment shut off valve has a leak so I have to take all the adapters out so they can come by and fix it. I thought I would have it installed this week but didnt work out that way.. all I got is water everywhere and a lighter wallet out of the deal. lol
 
What's the name of this adapter?

Trying to see if I can find local.
 

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I give up on this thing. Guess im just dumb. Fixed all know leaks and still not getting water out of faucet.



Anyone in the Michigan area available to install this rodi. I will gladly pay to get it done.
 
I give up on this thing. Guess im just dumb. Fixed all know leaks and still not getting water out of faucet.



Anyone in the Michigan area available to install this rodi. I will gladly pay to get it done.
Can you post a picture of the final result? We can likely get it going.
 
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