Rodi under sink install question.

Ok, I finally got it working after replacing a line under the sink. im getting water out the faucet however gauge is only showing 40psi coming in and also I only have 1 of 75gpdh membrane installed. I wanted to do the 150gpd upgrade but is this enough pressure?

also I dont have the di portion set up yet. I have that capped off because I dont my tank yet. how long should I let the system run before drinking water?
 
Nope. You’re going to need a booster pump. I got an “aqua buddy” for mine.

If you don’t have enough pressure, the waste water to clean water ratio will be incredibly wasteful…and time consuming
 
Nope. You’re going to need a booster pump. I got an “aqua buddy” for mine.

If you don’t have enough pressure, the waste water to clean water ratio will be incredibly wasteful…and time consuming
This, PA has this at a dang good price and I’ve been using this same unit for years with no issues.
 
This, PA has this at a dang good price and I’ve been using this same unit for years with no issues.
ok. gonna order it up.

I also found a slow leak coming from a tee connector that supports the tds in plug. The plug is gray. is that a special tee for tds only or will a white tee connector also work? Thought it might be different since the ones for the tds are gray and the others are white.
 
ok. gonna order it up.

I also found a slow leak coming from a tee connector that supports the tds in plug. The plug is gray. is that a special tee for tds only or will a white tee connector also work? Thought it might be different since the ones for the tds are gray and the others are white.
Any Jaco or John Guest fitting should work. Nothing special there.
 
Nice work getting everything plumbed up and working. I hate to tell you, but you’ll be refiguring the 1/4” tubing into and from the RODI unit once you get the booster pump. It’ll all make sense once it’s done, but feel free to ask questions if you need help.
 
Oh, oh, the TDS T, yes, that may have the probe from the TDS meter in it. If so, the leak is a factory defect IMO.
 
still leaks when I change the tee. even when I use the other pin. guess I need to order a new tds meter?
Are you sure it's pushed in enough? It's just a johnguest T and the probe is the same diameter as RO tubing. If it's pushed in far enough it shouldn't leak.
 
sorry for all the dumb questions guys. thanks for all ur help.

so here is my ro system and how its plumbed now. the only exception is ive added a 2nd membrane.

So today my pump is getting delivered and was wondering where do I plumb the pump as well as any switches it comes with in this diagram. Also right now I dont have the di hooked up. I just have a cap on the end of the line. What should I do with the line I marked in this photo until im ready to hook up the di portion.
airwaterice.png
 
The plumbing will depend on the pump you got. You’re likely going to discard or rearrange most of the plumbing on the current ro unit .
 
If you're using the AquaFX Booster Pump, here's a diagram from their website that might be helpful.

1710949451509.png


Regarding the current capped off DI line. If you're not going to use the DI for a while (leave it capped off), you'd need to move the pressure solenoid between the membrane and the pressurized water tank. Once you are ready to use the DI, you'd move the solenoid as it is shown in this diagram.
 

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The plumbing will depend on the pump you got. You’re likely going to discard or rearrange most of the plumbing on the current ro

If you're using the AquaFX Booster Pump, here's a diagram from their website that might be helpful.

View attachment 32398628

Regarding the current capped off DI line. If you're not going to use the DI for a while (leave it capped off), you'd need to move the pressure solenoid between the membrane and the pressurized water tank. Once you are ready to use the DI, you'd move the solenoid as it is shown in this diagram.
I seen this diagram but noticed its a little different than the a,w,i so I went with that diagram. this one doesnt show the fast flush valve and shows check valves in different spots. also ur diagram shows the tank/faucet tee'd between it and the di coming out of the asov and mine only the di is connected to the other side of the asov. . whats up with that? if im going to have it capped what would the asov accomplish? since I needed the bigger pump I end up going with the aqutec 8800 from brs. they had it on sale.
 
NOTE: This got a little more complicated the further into it I looked. I've typed the response(s) below several times because I was trying to address your questions point by point. But, each time I moved to the next question, it made me go back and look at the AWI and AquaFX diagrams and my responses changed as a result. So, hopefully, I've edited this so it makes sense.

First, I have not used either AWI or AquaFX products before (other than the AquaFX Booster pump). My system started as a 3-Stage SpectraPure system back in 1990 and has been increased to a 7-stage system, also adding the following over the years: ASOV, Pressure Gauge, Flush Valve, DI Bypass, and a Booster Pump. That said, both AWI and AquaFX both have solid reputations in the hobby.

It can be very confusing for sure. Both systems are laid out to correctly and will work for as a combination RODI and Drinking Water system. Each manufacturer of these systems builds them a little different but in the end they are all essentially the same.

It is very difficult to do without being able to show you in person (at least for my personality type) but I'll do my best. I've broken your response/questions up into sections.

this one doesnt show the fast flush valve and shows check valves in different spots.
The check valve between the membrane and pressurized tank could go in either place (AWI or AquaFX location) as long as there is one between the pressurized tank and the membrane. This keeps the pressure in the tank from putting back pressure on the membrane. I don't have this check valve as I don't use a drinking water kit.

I'm not sure of the function of the second check valve in the AWI diagram (see below). If I had to guess, I'd say It's keep waste water from backing into the DI Bypass when flushing the membrane. My system is designed so I don't need this check valve.
1710952418057.png


On the AquaFX diagram, the Flush Valve would go on the yellow waste water line. That particular system appears to simply not come standard with the flush valve but, one could easily be added on the waste line (that's what I did with my system).

also ur diagram shows the tank/faucet tee'd between it and the di coming out of the asov and mine only the di is connected to the other side of the asov. . whats up with that?
Either way will be fine. It's just two different ways of accomplishing the same thing. BUT, it leads to a complication with using the AWI as a drinking water kit only (not using / capping off the DI), see below.

if im going to have it capped what would the asov accomplish?
Good catch(y)

Looking closer at the diagrams, the placement of the T-Fitting on the two units is the BIG difference.

- In the AWI system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the membrane but BEFORE the ASOV (AWI).
- In the AquaFX system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the ASOV.

The way the AWI is configured (IMO), without modification, it can only be used as it was intended...for both drinking water and RODI. This is because capping off the DI AFTER the ASOV puts pressure on the ASOV and will shut the system down.

If you want the option to make either drinking water or DI water, here is what I would do (you shouldn't need any fittings but, might need some extra RO tubing to make this happen). See diagram below:
- Instead of having the RO water line from the membrane going to the T-Fitting, have it go to the ASOV (green arrow).
- Then, put the T-Fitting on the output oh the ASOV (purple arrow).
- Then, have the other two outlets of the T-Fitting - one going to the Pressure tank (yellow arrow) and the other going to the DI (red arrow).

1710957101639.png


When you don't want to use DI, simply close the post DI valve (near the words DI Water Out on the AWI diagram). When you want to make DI water, simply open that valve.

Finally, the booster pump you purchased from BRS should work fine.

Hope this makes sense and helps. If we lived closer, I'd come and help you get it worked out.
 
NOTE: This got a little more complicated the further into it I looked. I've typed the response(s) below several times because I was trying to address your questions point by point. But, each time I moved to the next question, it made me go back and look at the AWI and AquaFX diagrams and my responses changed as a result. So, hopefully, I've edited this so it makes sense.

First, I have not used either AWI or AquaFX products before (other than the AquaFX Booster pump). My system started as a 3-Stage SpectraPure system back in 1990 and has been increased to a 7-stage system, also adding the following over the years: ASOV, Pressure Gauge, Flush Valve, DI Bypass, and a Booster Pump. That said, both AWI and AquaFX both have solid reputations in the hobby.

It can be very confusing for sure. Both systems are laid out to correctly and will work for as a combination RODI and Drinking Water system. Each manufacturer of these systems builds them a little different but in the end they are all essentially the same.

It is very difficult to do without being able to show you in person (at least for my personality type) but I'll do my best. I've broken your response/questions up into sections.


The check valve between the membrane and pressurized tank could go in either place (AWI or AquaFX location) as long as there is one between the pressurized tank and the membrane. This keeps the pressure in the tank from putting back pressure on the membrane. I don't have this check valve as I don't use a drinking water kit.

I'm not sure of the function of the second check valve in the AWI diagram (see below). If I had to guess, I'd say It's keep waste water from backing into the DI Bypass when flushing the membrane. My system is designed so I don't need this check valve.
View attachment 32398631

On the AquaFX diagram, the Flush Valve would go on the yellow waste water line. That particular system appears to simply not come standard with the flush valve but, one could easily be added on the waste line (that's what I did with my system).


Either way will be fine. It's just two different ways of accomplishing the same thing. BUT, it leads to a complication with using the AWI as a drinking water kit only (not using / capping off the DI), see below.


Good catch(y)

Looking closer at the diagrams, the placement of the T-Fitting on the two units is the BIG difference.

- In the AWI system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the membrane but BEFORE the ASOV (AWI).
- In the AquaFX system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the ASOV.

The way the AWI is configured (IMO), without modification, it can only be used as it was intended...for both drinking water and RODI. This is because capping off the DI AFTER the ASOV puts pressure on the ASOV and will shut the system down.

If you want the option to make either drinking water or DI water, here is what I would do (you shouldn't need any fittings but, might need some extra RO tubing to make this happen). See diagram below:
- Instead of having the RO water line from the membrane going to the T-Fitting, have it go to the ASOV (green arrow).
- Then, put the T-Fitting on the output oh the ASOV (purple arrow).
- Then, have the other two outlets of the T-Fitting - one going to the Pressure tank (yellow arrow) and the other going to the DI (red arrow).

View attachment 32398666

When you don't want to use DI, simply close the post DI valve (near the words DI Water Out on the AWI diagram). When you want to make DI water, simply open that valve.

Finally, the booster pump you purchased from BRS should work fine.

Hope this makes sense and helps. If we lived closer, I'd come and help you get it worked out.
Like this?

Had to make sure since I am adding membrane.



Also keep in mind.. I don't have anything in the di canister.

I figured why even put resin inside since I'm probably weeks or months from having a tank.


Should I just let water fill that canister for now?
NOTE: This got a little more complicated the further into it I looked. I've typed the response(s) below several times because I was trying to address your questions point by point. But, each time I moved to the next question, it made me go back and look at the AWI and AquaFX diagrams and my responses changed as a result. So, hopefully, I've edited this so it makes sense.

First, I have not used either AWI or AquaFX products before (other than the AquaFX Booster pump). My system started as a 3-Stage SpectraPure system back in 1990 and has been increased to a 7-stage system, also adding the following over the years: ASOV, Pressure Gauge, Flush Valve, DI Bypass, and a Booster Pump. That said, both AWI and AquaFX both have solid reputations in the hobby.

It can be very confusing for sure. Both systems are laid out to correctly and will work for as a combination RODI and Drinking Water system. Each manufacturer of these systems builds them a little different but in the end they are all essentially the same.

It is very difficult to do without being able to show you in person (at least for my personality type) but I'll do my best. I've broken your response/questions up into sections.


The check valve between the membrane and pressurized tank could go in either place (AWI or AquaFX location) as long as there is one between the pressurized tank and the membrane. This keeps the pressure in the tank from putting back pressure on the membrane. I don't have this check valve as I don't use a drinking water kit.

I'm not sure of the function of the second check valve in the AWI diagram (see below). If I had to guess, I'd say It's keep waste water from backing into the DI Bypass when flushing the membrane. My system is designed so I don't need this check valve.
View attachment 32398631

On the AquaFX diagram, the Flush Valve would go on the yellow waste water line. That particular system appears to simply not come standard with the flush valve but, one could easily be added on the waste line (that's what I did with my system).


Either way will be fine. It's just two different ways of accomplishing the same thing. BUT, it leads to a complication with using the AWI as a drinking water kit only (not using / capping off the DI), see below.


Good catch(y)

Looking closer at the diagrams, the placement of the T-Fitting on the two units is the BIG difference.

- In the AWI system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the membrane but BEFORE the ASOV (AWI).
- In the AquaFX system, the T-Fitting comes AFTER the ASOV.

The way the AWI is configured (IMO), without modification, it can only be used as it was intended...for both drinking water and RODI. This is because capping off the DI AFTER the ASOV puts pressure on the ASOV and will shut the system down.

If you want the option to make either drinking water or DI water, here is what I would do (you shouldn't need any fittings but, might need some extra RO tubing to make this happen). See diagram below:
- Instead of having the RO water line from the membrane going to the T-Fitting, have it go to the ASOV (green arrow).
- Then, put the T-Fitting on the output oh the ASOV (purple arrow).
- Then, have the other two outlets of the T-Fitting - one going to the Pressure tank (yellow arrow) and the other going to the DI (red arrow).

View attachment 32398666

When you don't want to use DI, simply close the post DI valve (near the words DI Water Out on the AWI diagram). When you want to make DI water, simply open that valve.

Finally, the booster pump you purchased from BRS should work fine.

Hope this makes sense and helps. If we lived closer, I'd come and help you get it worked out.
Like this? Had to make sure since I'm adding the 2nd membrane..


Keep in mind, I don't even have a canister on the di part. I figured why put resin there since I'm weeks/months from tank ready.


Should I just install canister and let it fill with water?
 

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