Royal-Exclusiv / Vertex Cone Skimmer Club

So what's everyone running their revised 170's at? Mine is currently at 9" of water, 2 full turns open at the pump and 80-90% closed. 24 hour pics...
DSC_2348.jpg

Anyone know why alpha 250 don't have 2 pump inlet location like this?
 
Anyone know why alpha 250 don't have 2 pump inlet location like this?

The Alpha was the first model that was in production and the second pump inlet was a suggestion made by a customer when the first pictures of the Alpha 250 bodies were made public.
 
Yeah, I am pleased with the color of the skimmate. What it indicates to me is that I can adjust this to be a bit more watery, or dark....Without the mod, I had 2 options, dark stuff or overflowing the cup.

After it settles in at this setting for a few more days, I will probably screw the screw all the way in, and back out right after the surging stops. then see which of the two I like better, and adjust thereafter accordingly.
 
I recommend shutting it down for any maintenance, I do. Otherwise, you run the risk of it bubbling all over the place.

'05 Audi S4??? What kind of aquarium equipment is that? LOL :)

Just proud of my other expensive hobby. :thumbsup:

Yeah, you may be right. I'm sticking w/ shutting down pump before cup removal 'til I set up a small bucket or 2-liter bottle for skimmate to drain into.
 
Corywilson...

i tested the new Volute/nozzle Design in 25-28 cm waterlevel (10 " ) the best Performance, for my tank was 900-950 Liter Airintake and the screw was 2,5 Turns out. Please noticed : my saltwater-Testtank.

Please starting for found the best Perormance for your Tank :

> disconnecting the Hoses from the Silencer...
> closed the white srew completed....
> full closed, the waterinjekting is to less and the Pump begining surching and pulsation...
> starting with half Turns and heard, what the Pump is doing...
> after one or one and an half, the surching is stoping and the waterinjektion go higher...
> please opening the screw how long, as Micorbubbles comming out.....
> after Microbubbles comming out, close the screw a little bit..

Thats the best performance for your Tank. Please notice :...after Plugin the new Update, the Time for wait for the new adjustment, is one Day. The first Day, all the Parts are fresh and destroyed the Foam.

For Measurements : .... the Dwyers are not the best Equipment for make a good Measurement. We have any Dwyers here. The Backpressure, of the ball inside the Cone, is to high and the Pipe inside the Cone is to small. So the Measurement is wrong. The Equipment what we use, is an electrical Airflowmeter with 0 % backpressure. This Measurement is exactly.... the diffenrence for cheap Airflowmeters, is possible go wrong 50 % and more.....

For testing a good or bad Airflowmeter : .... please using a wattmeter and look, what the energyconsuption is doing : .... go the wattage more as 2 watt higher, after plug in a Airflowmeter, forget the measurement : ... he go wrong. A good Airflowmeter dont change the energyconsuption. 5 Watt more energyconsuption destroyed the Pumpperformance. The Airflow go significant down and the waterflow go high... If the connectors on the Airflowmeters are smaller, as the Silicontubes, what we using ( 9 mm inside) forget the measurements. A restriceted inlet, destroyed the Pumpperformance. For a Quickmeasurement with Airflowmeters, here in our Factory ( with the orange Cone) have 20 mm (!! ) inlet..... A good Airflowmeter in Europe, cost 200-300.- Euro. A electrical Airflowmeter cost 1500.- Euro....
Thats the Reason, we dont using serial Airflowmeters on our Skimmers.

Hope it helps.....

regards... Klaus

I decided to give this a try from Klaus on page 10 and here are my findings. So far here's an approx. 48 hour pic in 9" of water, riser about 80-90% and two turns on the pump screw. Kinda looks like cofee...
DSC_2351.jpg


So I decided to pull out the kill-a-watt meter. This is the one used.
DSC_2350.jpg


Riser and water was left the same with the pump screw adjusted.

-Screwed in all the way was surging that can be seen in the intake tube and silicone tube between the pump and skimmer.
28 watt / 1.11 amp

-1 full turn. Surging in the intake tube was gone but can still be seen in the silicone tubing between pump and skimmer.
29 watt / 1.11 amp

-2 full turns where I had it. Surging completely gone and foam was pretty thick for the last couple days with very little skimmate but very dark.
30 watt / 1.11 amp

-3 turns you can start to see more bubble activity in the cone.
31 watt / 1.11 amp

-4 turns same as last, maybe a little better. (this is where I'll leave it for now)
32 watt / 1.12 amp

-5 turns appears the same, bubbles may be appearing a little bigger.
32 watt / 1.12 amp

-6 turns bubbles looks like it's starting to get waeker/less.
33 watt / 1.12 amp

So I'll leave it at 4 turns and see how it goes...more to come. HTH!

I also posted this and some other reading on my tank thread here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15870563#post15870563
 
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Anyone who had the surging 170's, how is your performance now with the revision?

So far, I have no surging with the new parts unless I make it do it by screwing the intake all the way in. However, it had only surged once or twice before I installed the new parts. Other than that, I am still fine tuning my intake to get it set like I want it. I turned the intake out until it quit surging and then I continued turning it out looking for microbubbles exiting the output, but it never happenned. So, I am going to just adjust a turn a day and monitor performance and see how it goes. The foam definitely seems to be thicker and more consistent now with the new parts, but haven't yet figured out where my sweet spot is.
 
Nevermind, I found it on amazon and some other sites. Thanks anyway! Sometimes, if I would just look before asking! lol...
 
I'm sticking w/ shutting down pump before cup removal 'til I set up a small bucket or 2-liter bottle for skimmate to drain into.

Even after connecting it to an external collection container I recommend shutting it down for any type of maintenance. It's ok to shut it down when needed. It won't effect it or change your settings in any way. Mine shuts down with my main pump during feedings too. There is a float switch hooked up to it in the sump to prevent it from turning back on until the water level in the sump stabilizes and comes back down to a normal level that won't make the skimmer over flow.
 
What is everyone talking about with the white adjustment screw? Is there an adjustment screw on the pump I was unaware of? I have an Alpha 250.
 
There is a float switch hooked up to it in the sump to prevent it from turning back on until the water level in the sump stabilizes and comes back down to a normal level that won't make the skimmer over flow.

During my last setup, this was never an issue but with this one there is. Thanks for the tip, my brain must have been frozen. I even have an extra one that I can use.
 
During my last setup, this was never an issue but with this one there is. Thanks for the tip, my brain must have been frozen. I even have an extra one that I can use.

You're welcome. I have all kinds of float switches on everything including two on the main tank in case the overflow gets clogged. My next one will be on the skimmate drain container so it will shut off the skimmer when the container is full.
 
Add me to the 170 club....

alpha170arrival.jpg



Stupid question, but are our old volutes, pinwheels, etc. of any value to the rest of the community ??? Im assuming theyre going to start coming from the factory with the new revised pump and not the old setup, but if we could sell these old ones or something that might be nice. :bounce3:
 
220V Vertex Alpha 250?

220V Vertex Alpha 250?

Jeremy,

I wanna join the Vertex Alpha club :dance:

Any indication on when the 220V Alpha 250's will arrive/ship? I've ordered mine about 4 weeks ago.

Thanks for the reply.

Best regards,
Danny
 
There is a shipment that is arriving here in the states the end of next week. It will need to clear customs and head are way.
 
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