It would be normal for an in sump skimmer to overskim if the water level in the sump is raised so it's not a skimmer issue in that sense. My return pump stays primed when power goes out so it begins returning water to the display as soon as power is restored so water levels are back to normal pretty quickly and I havent noticed any overskimming. Not sure about whether you can set a delay with your controller but Jeremy may know ... asking in the general lighting/filtration etc forum would probably get you a faster response on your AC3 question. Other than that, there are circuits that remain disconnected until manually reset when power fails. I have had a couple of power strips that worked like that but most dont. Also, there are delay circuits but I cant think of anything off hand that would be readily available from a local super center that would work for your application although they may have something. Sorry, I dont know much of anything about the features of the AC3.
Royal-Exclusiv / Vertex Cone Skimmer Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
It would be normal for an in sump skimmer to overskim if the water level in the sump is raised so it's not a skimmer issue in that sense. My return pump stays primed when power goes out so it begins returning water to the display as soon as power is restored so water levels are back to normal pretty quickly and I havent noticed any overskimming. Not sure about whether you can set a delay with your controller but Jeremy may know ... asking in the general lighting/filtration etc forum would probably get you a faster response on your AC3 question. Other than that, there are circuits that remain disconnected until manually reset when power fails. I have had a couple of power strips that worked like that but most dont. Also, there are delay circuits but I cant think of anything off hand that would be readily available from a local super center that would work for your application although they may have something. Sorry, I dont know much of anything about the features of the AC3.
rbnice1
New member
Had the same problem. I use a controller that holds the skimmer off for 5 minutes after a power failure or after feed mode.(Feed mode turns off my return pump as well.)
Orr2003
New member
DarG
Yes it is not the skimmers fault it is overflowing. I love this skimmer. It replaced and energy hog MRC MR7 with Reeflo Hammerhead pump.
I will try and post my question in the Neptune Systems sponsor forum and see if someone there has the answer to the AC3 delay for the skimmer pumps.
Thanks
Orr2003
New member
Thanks Jeremy
If power 005 then (skimmer timer) off.
Someone helped me in the Neptune Systems forum also.
This program language would allow the pumps to stay off for 5 minutes after power is regained.
Very useful in my situation. And my power is always going off, I am running my house on a generator as I type. LOL
is that a 200?
I am getting mine next thursday
I thought the neck is grey PVC, how come yours is white?
I am getting mine next thursday
I thought the neck is grey PVC, how come yours is white?
Early Christmas for me!
Skimmer looks awesome. I'll eventually break down and let it touch water.
Thanks Jeremy!
Reefobsession
New member
Early Christmas for me!
Skimmer looks awesome. I'll eventually break down and let it touch water.
Thanks Jeremy!
Hey I got the 170 as an early gift, but I didn't get the tunze's. oh well:eek2:
About 8" - 10" . Jeremy has suggested up to 10" for a very light bioload. Shallower than 8" probably isnt a good idea. I run mine right at 9" with a fairly light bioload on a 90 gallon with 38 gallon sump. 9" seems to be a popular running depth but I havent done a census. 13" is definitely too deep. Skimmer height should be available in the description/specs on the PA website.
borghmad
New member
Ofcourse it's special...because....it's mine!! :frog:
No seriously, it's the Alpha 250 with 220v. Maybe all new Alpha 250's airhoses are connected like mine is?
The odd thing is: Inside the standpipe the air intake is not connected to the damper (or silencer? dunno, I'm Dutch :fun4. I mean the hose is connected to the black thingy as seen in the picture but inside it's not connected to the damper. Hmmm I know that sounds odd. Can't take a picture right now. Will post a picture of what I mean this week.
Maybe mine is a secret government experiment with a freak as a result :idea: :clown:
Here's the picture I promised.
So there is no real connection (ie Hose or something) between the airhose and the silencer. You just put the silencer on top of the standpipe.
I find that a bit strange. Isn't it possible that the skimmer sucks up moist air? (Humidity)
Thanks
mine is a very high bio load with SPS corals, so if 10 is for light bio load, is 8 for high bio load?
Thanks
mine is a very high bio load with SPS corals, so if 10 is for light bio load, is 8 for high bio load?
Thanks
Reefobsession
New member
I would think that at a deeper depth would result in more air draw? Correct me if I am wrong. So wouldn't you want less air draw for a lighter bioload?
Matt Wilkie
New member
Weird that silencer had white rings on it not the usual grey ones. The tube is hooked up on mine. Yours really is special, i think the tube should be hooked up thou
To answer Reefobsessions question first ... Jeremy posted the numbers earlier in the thread for different sump levels and yes, I believe the air draw was higher at 10".
To respond to the quote ... Not necessarily I dont think. Jeremy stated earlier in the thread that you could run up to 10" depth if the bioload was very light. Running that deep may cause overskimming with a heavier bioload. The higher the sump water level, the higher the MINIMUM level inside the skimmer itself. In other words, with the wedgepipe wide open in both scenarios .. in 8" of water the water level in the skimmer will be lower than the water level in the skimmer in 10" of water. Add to this that the pump also draws a bit more air at 10" and you can see where with a heavy bioload and a 10" sump water level, there potentially could be too much foam head with overskimming being the result even with the wedgepipe wide open.
But that said, I dont think that necessarily means that 8" is the best depth for a heavy bioload. I think, like anything else, you may want to do some experimenting with the sump water level after the skimmer is broken in. Personally, I would start at 9" just because it seems like the most commonly recommended depth more than anything else (and thats where I ultimately ended up) ... then experiment from there if you want to.
There isnt going to be a cut and dry, best, definitive sump water level for everyones system.
Here's the picture I promised.
So there is no real connection (ie Hose or something) between the airhose and the silencer. You just put the silencer on top of the standpipe.
I find that a bit strange. Isn't it possible that the skimmer sucks up moist air? (Humidity)
I dont see how it should matter that the tube isnt hooked up to the silencer. The purpose of the silencer is to muffle/silence the air sucking noise. It doesnt matter where it is pulling air from, whether it is from the air inside the wedgepipe or pulling air directly through the silencer ... and it would seem that most of the free air in the wedgepipe has ultimately been drawn through the silencer due to the vacuum caused by the venturi on the pump. In other words, the air line opens inside the wedpipe and is sucking air, creating a vacuum ... so the majority of air is still being pulled through the silencer, despite the airline not being hooked up directly to it. Furthermore, hooking another section of airline up to the fitting inside the pipe and to the silencer itself creates to more connections that would, to atleast some small degree, create some restriction.
As far as it now pulling more humid air ... that may be the case. But, it has been suggested that pulling humidified air can help keep the venturi freer of accumulated salt and calcium/hard water build up. So, that could/should be a positive but if not, it isnt a negative at all IMO.
I could be mistaken here and my logic could be fubar ... but again, it doesnt make any difference from what I see. The only "downside" that I can think of is that you cant just hook an air flow meter up to the top of the silencer and get an accurate reading because there will now be some losses due to the fact that the silencer does not have an airtight seal to the top of the wedgepipe.
Bottom line, again, IMO ... if it's still silent, it's fine as it is. You get the oossible added bonus of a bit higher humidity air being drawn by the pump (the air over the sump has pretty high of humidity as it is) which may help keep the airline connection free of build up and you dont have to worry about any water trickling out of the hole ... as some complained of with the airline thru-hole set up.
Again, just the way I see it ... IMHO etc etc etc.
redstile
New member
My alpha has arrived, everything ok, there are not instructions for the adjustments.
reading the post I found information on the level in sump at about 23 cm, but other adjustments:
air ?
optimal level in the body ?
thanks
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