While not really a mixing station, I also needed a way to drain water out of my tank and get water back in for a water change. So this is what I came up with.
Here's mine. Pretty simple, top brute for RODI, bottom for mixing. Gravity fed through uniseal at the bottom of the top brute. T'd off to either drop straight into the mixing barrel, or to feed the flex hose for filling ATO container or misc. buckets. Also installed sight glasses on the sides of both brutes for precise transferring. Also took this time to install an automatic shutoff on my RO system.
Close up of the plumbing:
Many thanks to all the great posters in this thread, you have all helped to make my life easier!!
I'm in the process of upgrading my mixing station. I just picked up a 55 gal drum from a local feed store for under $20. I'm really not sure that I need much as of yet. Initially I'm thinking of just T'ing off my RO/DI output line to go to both this 55 gal drum and the 32 gal Brute that I'm currently using for salt mixing/storage. I figure on just picking up a second float valve for the new 55 gal drum such that I can just turn on the RO/DI when I need to make NSW.
The slightly longer range plan is to get a Litermeter to do auto/continuous water changes from the 55 gal drum straight up and over to the fish tank. I'll just need to turn off the LM3 for a couple days once a month to mix up NSW and then turn it back on again.
One question I have is about running the LM3 lines... My plan is to run them thru the walls and attic. It doesn't seem like many people are actually running these line thru the walls? Is there a reason for this or am I simply mistaken here?
I really can't wait to get the LM3 water change system up and going. I think this will be probably the single most beneficial purchase for the overall health of my tank as well as being the greatest purchase for maintenance convenience.
I ran mine from the garage to the dining room through the walls and attic. About 75-80 feet of tubing, and about 40 feet directly. It works week for me. There is some temperature change as it goes through the attic but not enough to change the temp of the tank.
I'm almost finished. Left barrel is ro/di , right barrel is NSW. The pump used is a mag 9.5 . I can have either my RODI pumped straight up to my ato reservoir next to the tank or have it pump NSW to my return line under my tank for a bucketless WC. The water station pump is controlled by a switch under my tank and in the basement. The tank is located right above. The second pictures shows the far right line coming up the floor and Ts off for my ato . View attachment 250542
I will be starting my build in the next couple of days to a week. as soon as I conquer the electrical issues. it will be 2 60 gallon drums with approximate head pressure height of 11 ft. are there any do's or don'ts I should know about. This thread is full of great ideas and builds any advice will be greatly appreciated. I hope to eventually move my sump down in the same room but for right now I will be pumping it up the steps and in the tank. One question I have, should I have two separate pumps one for mixing and one for pumping to the tank. is a pump with 11ft of head pressure to powerful to use as a mixing pump.
Sorry didn't explain that very well, I know I can gate the mixing flow back I was more concerned about wear on the pump itself. Also should I circulate the RODI water on the fresh water side while it is sitting in the tank, if so how often?
This is a great thread. Hopefully someday I can implement some of the creative ideas for my own system. For now I just have a tote with a circulating pump and heater.
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