Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

From my understanding, and I'm no expert. But they're more or less the same. If you need to protect multiple outlets in a area, use the breaker. If you have 1 outlet, use the plug. They do the same thing and function the same. For me, I have 6 receptacles, all by water. And some of the plugs themselves have light switches built into them, and from my understanding they don't make GFCI combos. So from what I know, it ends up being preference/situation.

correct a gfi breaker will protect everything that's connected on it, but gfi receptacles as also designed to protect additional receptacles, lights etc that are connected to the load side and are downstream of the device.
 
What size (in relation to total tank volume) are most you buying your containers in? I am planning an approx. 450 gallon system. I was originally looking at 2x 100 gallon storage containers, one for RO/DI and one for saltwater, but it would make for a tight fit in the area they are going in. I'm wondering if a 65 or 75 gallon containers would still be plenty. I figure this will still cover evap. of 5-7 gallons a day easily and give me the ability to do a 15% total volume water change if necessary. Thoughts?
 
What size (in relation to total tank volume) are most you buying your containers in? ... Thoughts?
I went with 2 X 200 gallon tanks (~325 gallon system), only because those were the largest I could CRAM into the available area.

I wanted the maximum amount of water storage possible for emergency purposes and to allow for the longest, most efficient RO/DI run-time lengths.
 
I went with 2x106 for a 180 gallon DT (300 gallon system, roughly) since it was, again, the biggest I could reasonably fit in there.
 
Here is mine. I have a small fish room of about 6x7 so had to make due. I used 32g brute cans and uniseals. The to storage is on top and the plumbing allow mW to fill my ato by simply opening a valve. The other valve fills the mixing tank below.

It contains a Rio 2100 for mixond and pumping. The mixing tank is on wheels so I can roll it to the display tanks.

uploadfromtaptalk1395621445385.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1395621938159.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1395621969328.jpg
 
Just finishing mine, waiting for a thread connector for the Eheim 1102. Nothing at my local HD/Lowes fits!



Used the basic stand thread here on RC to build the stand from 2x4s.


Sealed with Kilz2 latex:


White plumbing and uniseals this time:


Source water and RO waste water that carries around the house to top off the pool:


Spray bar drilled for the lower barrel return:


Halfway plumbed:


Almost finished, just waiting on an external barb connector for the eheim Compact 5000+ pump (same as DT so I have a spare):
[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
First of all, this is a great thread and full of a lot info. I also used this thread - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2349824

I built my water changing system based upon the info here. Thanks.

I have a Stenner 45M5 for my ATO with a latching circuit on a 55 gal barrel to control the water level. Works great.

For the NSW 55 gal barrel I have a Stenner 100DMP5 for the pushing and pulling and a float switch for low water level. It is that float switch that is causing problems. I have the NSW on a digital timer. The 100DMP5 is plugged into the float switch that is plugged into the timer. In theory, the pump should come on when the switch is closed (enough water) but it is not. I have tested the switch with other items and it works.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
Back
Top