Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them

I have a T comming off my return pump that goes directly to the drain so when I need to drain water I open a ball valve and away it goes.

Hmm, I've thought about doing that... I have also taken my clear tubing off my return pump and added another line to drain to a bucket, but I don't get enough water in the return section. I think I can get maybe 2 gallons out of it. If anything, I would have to cup water from my skimmer and/or fuge section to my return to do this. I try to do 4-5 gallon water changes.
 
I see all of these nice saltwater mixing stations, but wonder what everyone does to get the old saltwater out of their tanks/sumps? I have been using one powerhead for mixing and another small pump for getting water out of my sump and moving the pump to my bucket of new water to pump back to my tank.

That's how I originally did it on my current 90g tank.

I'll be rigging a Litermeter III for continuous water changes on my 300g I'm setting up. It will run up the wall through the attic into the garage where I make/mix/store water. The old water from the tank will go the the washing machine drain line.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but do you keep the saltwater heated and circulated at all times? I did and my saltwater barrel has faint brown film on the sides. I use IO RC salt.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but do you keep the saltwater heated and circulated at all times? I did and my saltwater barrel has faint brown film on the sides. I use IO RC salt.

I do, I get a brown slime. Covers the Koralia and aqueon pro heater. I was also recirculating with the mag9.5 transfer pump but my temp would be 80+ so I only use it to transfer.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but do you keep the saltwater heated and circulated at all times? I did and my saltwater barrel has faint brown film on the sides. I use IO RC salt.

No, not in my case, I heat it during mixing only to make sure I get the salinity correct then it just sits room temp. Heating it to thank temp only really maters to check salinity(depending how you check it), and if your doing large all at once water changes that would otherwise effect the tank temperature.
 
I have a T comming off my return pump that goes directly to the drain so when I need to drain water I open a ball valve and away it goes.

I thought about that but I would need to get 20g from the sump. I just don't think I have it. I might just need a small pump so I could drop it into the slimmer section and pump it down.
 
yeah my T idea don't work for everyone, my return section is 100 gal or my whole sump so I have plenty of room to play with.
 
yeah my T idea don't work for everyone, my return section is 100 gal or my whole sump so I have plenty of room to play with.

Yeah I considered drilling an extra bulkhead in my DT for a drain to facilitate easier water changes. I haven't done one yet on this set up but I am still trying to come up with a good plan.
 
This thread is amazing and has inspired me to build my own version of a water mixing station. :beer: Dispute my lack of woodworking skills I was able to build a stand 25"Lx16"Wx14"H using RocketEngineer's template. I will be using two Ace / DenHartog 20 Gallon Flat Bottom Utility Tank that are 11"L x 15"W x 31"H
Stand
13863034475_66ed329888_c_d.jpg

Tanks
http://www.tank-depot.com/Drawings%2fAce%2fSP%2fSP0020-OM.pdf

As you see, I left the top of the stand open as it may be necessary to plumb from the bottom. Do you guys think. I need to put a plywood base on top or will the tanks be properly supported as is?
 
the ace tanks are very strong, I don't think you will need any bottom support other than the edges. I could always go look at them to make sure, I live 8 min from the company that makes them :D
 
Question:

How are you all with tall tanks (6 footers here) attaching bulk heads to the bottom area (mine are not pre-installed)??

Seems I'll have to do a uniseal or something that doesn't require my hand reaching the bottom of the tank.
 
You probably could stick a long piece of pvc to the bulkhead and place it in the hole and then screw it on with the nut. May need a 2nd person to hold the pvc while tightening the bulkhead.
 
Couple of questions for those of you using the Ace Roto Mold tanks...the lids have a spring loaded vent in the middle, is that so that they open up as a vacuum forms? Also, do you guys close the lids tight?
 
Back
Top