Question:
How are you all with tall tanks (6 footers here) attaching bulk heads to the bottom area (mine are not pre-installed)??
Seems I'll have to do a uniseal or something that doesn't require my hand reaching the bottom of the tank.
+1 I am also curious about this since I have had my RO/DI unit sit for some time now with water i cartidges and i'm planning on doing my first fill up. I was wondering if I should put a small bucket under the float valve to catch the first few gallons until it hits 0 TDS.I'm sorry if this has been answered previously, but for all of you that have your RO/DI systems set up with float switches, to top off containers, do your RO/DI systems do an automatic flush before starting to make good water? I really want to set up a new mixing station with a float switch, but my RO/DI system does about a 30 second flush prior to starting each run of good water.
Am I over thinking things? The flush only produces about 10-12 ounces of water, the TDS starts at about 40-50 PPM then goes down to 0 over about a 30 second period. Would that 10-12 ounces of ~30-40 TDS water be diluted enough through the production of say 25 gallons of 0 TDS water so that it doesnt really make an impact?
Thanks in advance for your input, I have delayed setting up a mixing station until I could figure out how this would work.
Alright I need all the good people on RC to analyze this design. I have to give credit to reefergill on youtube for the basic design and I just modified it a bit.
Goals
1. Have the ability to pump fresh or salt water from my station in my garage to my tank in my living room(50 ft)
2. Use only 1 pump in the design.
3. Ability to gravity feed small amounts of fresh RO for mixing food or supplements.
4. Be able to fully drain containers(both barrels are raise to allow bulkheads on the bottom of the barrels. Thank you reefgill or whoever else has done this design)
5. Gravity backup if pump failed.
Ok will this work? What have I missed?
View attachment 266385
For now I'll be running a garden type hose with the metal ends cut off and replaced with plastic ones from the garage into the house. When I'm done, I'll just coil the hose back up in the garage. The pump is a Sicce 3.0, so it won't move the water real fast, but MUCH faster than lugging 5g's at a time back and forth! The final design I will add a Litermeter III to the system and pump the water through the attic like you want to do. This will be for daily water changes though at a rate of a 2 or so gallons a day. If you are wanting to do 20% changes at a time, you'll need to find a large pump that can move a fair amount of water at a 9-10ft head height. You could go with a used Reeflo Dart pump for this. Use it to mix your water between tanks in the garage, then open/close valves to have it pump to your tank through the attic. At a 10ft height the Darts still move 1500g's an hour. You can find the used Darts in the classified here for $125-ish. On a 120g tank, if you are doing about 25g water changes, that equates to about a minute with the Dart to refill the tank after draining out 25g's. Pretty quick if you ask me!
As for the draining of old water, right now I'll siphon it out of the tank into a brute on wheels and bring it out to the end of the driveway to dump so it doesn't kill the grass. The final design will use the Litermeter. The old tank water will come back through the attic and drop down into the laundry room and dump into the washing machine drain line. This will all be done with 1/4" RO tubing that the Litermeter uses.