shaggss
Active member
Awesome, thank you very much!
Salt Water Mixing Stations Let's See Them
- Thread starter kc350twin
- Start date
Awesome, thank you very much!
brians4671
New member
Here's mine. Simple. Effective. RO/DI goes in top. Top barrel had float switch to turn off water. Gravity feeds to lower barrel where salt water is mixed and kept using power head and heater.
Mine is going to be simple as this. I'm thinking instead of PVC clear tubing to use as a level indicator as well. With a T on the tpo connection which will vent upward above the flood level of the upper barrel.
brians4671
New member
http://[URL=http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp93/brians4671/IMG_0127_zpsfug5vw4f.mp4]
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And heerree weee go....
And heerree weee go....
Hey Brian... Nice setup, great video!
But next time turn the dryer off first! :lolspin:
But next time turn the dryer off first! :lolspin:
brians4671
New member
Ahhh yes sorry about that I was caught up in my moment...
the clear tubing worked out Like a charm....I can check both upper and lower levels isolating each by shut off valves
brians4671
New member
One added mod. The top brute is gravity fed into the bottom brute via float valve and 1/4 inch tubing. Once the upper brute is mixed will feed the lower brute as is is used. Which gives me upwards of 60 g of saltwater.
mmn
New member
My Station
My Station
2x32g Brutes, a Panworld 30px pump, 3/4" PVC, stand from Rocket's design.
Left can is RO/DI fed from a BRS 6 stage unit on the other side of the left wall in the laundry room.There's 20g QT and an ATO on top. Out the back and down the wall to the right there is a 3/4" PVC pipe to the sump/DT. Out the front is a hose bib for draining or filling buckets with either RO/DI or SW.
Haven't decided whether to skin it or just hang a curtain. Probably the latter. Oh and the pump is on a zwave outlet and the entire circuit is on a GFCI breaker.
My Station
2x32g Brutes, a Panworld 30px pump, 3/4" PVC, stand from Rocket's design.
Left can is RO/DI fed from a BRS 6 stage unit on the other side of the left wall in the laundry room.There's 20g QT and an ATO on top. Out the back and down the wall to the right there is a 3/4" PVC pipe to the sump/DT. Out the front is a hose bib for draining or filling buckets with either RO/DI or SW.
Haven't decided whether to skin it or just hang a curtain. Probably the latter. Oh and the pump is on a zwave outlet and the entire circuit is on a GFCI breaker.
Attachments
Trigunblood
New member
Would love to receive a parts list for dbl's build. I'm new here so I cant send a private message yet LOL.
Mrs. Music
New member
Welcome!
dbl
Member
Trigunblood… Welcome to the forum. I would love to be able to say my design was all my idea, but it would be doing others, much smarter than me, a great injustice to do so. This is a culmination of my mixing station research. I will try to explain as best I can how it works, which I will apologize in advance, it’s going to be long winded! As to a parts list, I already had all the plumbing parts (with the exception of the ball valves) lying around from my original build. But here is the plumbing list as best I remember, all done with 1” PVC:
4-90 degree elbows; 4-“T’s”; 4-unions; 6-ball valves; various adapters for containers and pump; 3-pvc to hose adapters; and 2-uniseals.
The containers came from www.tankdepot.com. Mixing containers (part # A-SP0055-MM) are 55 gallons. The small container is to make adding salt easier (part# A-SP0004-SQ5). All containers came with bulkhead fittings, so I just adapted to appropriate plumbing. Drilled hole in top of stand, and I just remove lid from left container, push fit a small piece of PVC to bottom of small one, and dump salt in, which directly feeds in to mixing container below. The stand is as simple as you see in the picture (post #1008 of this thread). 2x4 legs with a piece of plywood on top. FYI…the plywood top is secured with a dowels, not screws, so it can be removed easily if need be. The pump was an extra Little Giant 4MD I already had; I believe it’s around 1350 gph.
How it works: The right container is RODI with an auto shut off to the RODI unit, so it’s always full. The left is mixed saltwater. What you can’t see is I used another piece of straight PVC inside the left container that has the Pinpoint Salinity monitor probe, the temperature probe and heater attached. I did it this way so everything can be pulled out of the container easily. There is also a powerhead at the bottom to aid with settlement. It’s on a timer and runs for a few minutes several times a day. The power strip is a switched strip, so each outlet is individually controlled. As an example, I don’t keep the heater on, so I just turn it on before changes.
With the manipulation of various valves, all using the same pump, I can fill the left side with RODI water for mixing, I can recirculate and mix the salt in the left container, I can empty either container with the bottom two outlets (or gravity feed to empty if a power loss), and finally I can pump either clean RODI water to my reservoir under the tank or pump mixed saltwater to the tank for water changes using the horizontal valve you see in the picture, that has a garden hose adapter attached. I simply keep the garden hose on there at this point (not in picture). I was unable to run lines directly to the tank (I’m in Florida on a slab and I didn’t really have attic access where the display is located) so I’m stuck with stretching the hose through the house a couple times a week. At least it keeps my wife on her toes!
I’m sure there are better ways to do this. I know there are cheaper ways as the containers are a little pricey. But I love how clean it looks (it’s in our laundry/mud room) and it is working out very well for me. So as promised, this was a long-winded explanation and I’m happy to answer further questions, if any. Good luck and again welcome to RC.
4-90 degree elbows; 4-“T’s”; 4-unions; 6-ball valves; various adapters for containers and pump; 3-pvc to hose adapters; and 2-uniseals.
The containers came from www.tankdepot.com. Mixing containers (part # A-SP0055-MM) are 55 gallons. The small container is to make adding salt easier (part# A-SP0004-SQ5). All containers came with bulkhead fittings, so I just adapted to appropriate plumbing. Drilled hole in top of stand, and I just remove lid from left container, push fit a small piece of PVC to bottom of small one, and dump salt in, which directly feeds in to mixing container below. The stand is as simple as you see in the picture (post #1008 of this thread). 2x4 legs with a piece of plywood on top. FYI…the plywood top is secured with a dowels, not screws, so it can be removed easily if need be. The pump was an extra Little Giant 4MD I already had; I believe it’s around 1350 gph.
How it works: The right container is RODI with an auto shut off to the RODI unit, so it’s always full. The left is mixed saltwater. What you can’t see is I used another piece of straight PVC inside the left container that has the Pinpoint Salinity monitor probe, the temperature probe and heater attached. I did it this way so everything can be pulled out of the container easily. There is also a powerhead at the bottom to aid with settlement. It’s on a timer and runs for a few minutes several times a day. The power strip is a switched strip, so each outlet is individually controlled. As an example, I don’t keep the heater on, so I just turn it on before changes.
With the manipulation of various valves, all using the same pump, I can fill the left side with RODI water for mixing, I can recirculate and mix the salt in the left container, I can empty either container with the bottom two outlets (or gravity feed to empty if a power loss), and finally I can pump either clean RODI water to my reservoir under the tank or pump mixed saltwater to the tank for water changes using the horizontal valve you see in the picture, that has a garden hose adapter attached. I simply keep the garden hose on there at this point (not in picture). I was unable to run lines directly to the tank (I’m in Florida on a slab and I didn’t really have attic access where the display is located) so I’m stuck with stretching the hose through the house a couple times a week. At least it keeps my wife on her toes!
I’m sure there are better ways to do this. I know there are cheaper ways as the containers are a little pricey. But I love how clean it looks (it’s in our laundry/mud room) and it is working out very well for me. So as promised, this was a long-winded explanation and I’m happy to answer further questions, if any. Good luck and again welcome to RC.
mygsris2slo4u
New member
Finally got it goin'
Finally got it goin'
Here is my setup...:dance:
80lb vittle vaults (about 20 gallons each)
Mag 18 (in my fish hoarding pile)
7 stage ro/di behind the containers and it's all hidden to keep the wife happy since it's in our laundry room.
I need to shorten the pipe from the salt water feed valve as of right now it's off by a rch and has the container cocked a bit. I will buy a repair coupling tomorrow. No more dragging these containers across the house!
Finally got it goin'
Here is my setup...:dance:
80lb vittle vaults (about 20 gallons each)
Mag 18 (in my fish hoarding pile)
7 stage ro/di behind the containers and it's all hidden to keep the wife happy since it's in our laundry room.
I need to shorten the pipe from the salt water feed valve as of right now it's off by a rch and has the container cocked a bit. I will buy a repair coupling tomorrow. No more dragging these containers across the house!
Last edited by a moderator:
ryguylears
New member
So my rodi barell is so close to the ceiling I can't look in to see the level and at one point in this thread I saw a way of seeing the water level in a brute with some bulkheads and clear tubing mounted externally, anyone know what I'm talking about? Just looking for some pics or a how to.
coffee_snob
New member
Last edited by a moderator:
ryguylears
New member
Exactly, thank you!
Looks like 2 bulkheads with a 90 with a thread on one end and hose fitting on the other? Looks easy enough.
Looks like 2 bulkheads with a 90 with a thread on one end and hose fitting on the other? Looks easy enough.
woodnaquanut
Active member
Could also be uniseals, 1/2" pvc, pvc elbow and reduction fitting to almost any size of tubing - 1/2" or 1/4". Whatever you have or can easily find.
mygsris2slo4u
New member
+1 see my post above. I used uniseals an some 3/4" pvc with 1/2" vinyl hose. Now I just need to make gallon indicators on the hose.
alten78
New member
With my lack of space, having the trash cans on top of each other was my only option, but it works and beat the heck out of mixing in a small bin over the years.
RO/DI unit with float valve into the top bin, gravity fed to the bottom when wanting to mix salt, clear tubing goes through the wall to the sump and ATO bucket.
RO/DI unit with float valve into the top bin, gravity fed to the bottom when wanting to mix salt, clear tubing goes through the wall to the sump and ATO bucket.
Last edited by a moderator:
ryguylears
New member
Nice, I'll be doing that this weekend.
brians4671
New member
That worked out great my post is on the previous page with a short video
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Check out Laguna max flo pumps. They are pond pumps and come with a huge power cords. Just drop one of those bad boys in the bottom, and let it mix some water.
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