Biggen
New member
It's not an issue. The pump may cavitate while the valve is closed, but it shouldn't hurt anything for the short time the pump will be on and the valve is closed.
I'm setting mine up the same way.
Great. Thanks for that.
It's not an issue. The pump may cavitate while the valve is closed, but it shouldn't hurt anything for the short time the pump will be on and the valve is closed.
I'm setting mine up the same way.
But what about pump damage from fully closing the valves when it is running? Or is that not an issue?
Finally got mine finished.
The tanks from left to right are Freshwater, Salt water, and 2 waste water. The waste water will be used to water the grass or top off the pool. I'll be plumbing in a hose so that when the waste water overflows, I can point it straight to the pool or to the pools drain.
I live in Texas, so I'll have to figure out some way of cooling the water in the summer when I do a water change. I'll probably just fill up a few 5 gallon buckets and leave them in the house for a day or two prior to doing the water change.
There's a mag 9.5 that I use to move water from the freshwater tank to the saltwater tank and to mix the salt water. I need to extend the pipe into the saltwater tank to blow the salt around the bottom more or it gets to where it just sits down there.
The auto-top off tank is inside the house in the stand.
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I wouldn't use old sw to water the grass unless you wanna kill it.
I wouldn't use old sw to water the grass unless you wanna kill it.
Well thanks for the tip everyone. I went with the CEPEX valves and talk about a night and day difference. I think some of the PVC runs are slightly pulling or pushing on the plumbing. Any tips for getting it just perfect? It seems like vinyl tubing would make that easier. Anyways, here it is!
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On a side note. We had a huge wind storm blow through the other night. The two waste water containers were empty because I had just drained them into the pool. The wind blew them around and broke some of the PVC. I'll need to find a way of fixing them into place so it doesn't happen again. I'm thinking just a simple 2x4 frame around them should do.
Somebody has got issues...I like it!
I read most of this looooong thread while deciding what would work best for me and my setup. Thank you to all who have shared their ideas and ingenuity.
I chose to go with a single 165 gallon Norwesco tank. I use it to perform a 1% daily AWC via a Dos attached to my Apex. It's large enough that I only have to mix Salt every 75-80 days. A RODI filter fills the NSW tank with the manual turn of a valve with a float valve as back up in case I forget to turn it off. It sits in my garage (in North Texas) where temperatures can be below freezing or well above 100. However, it is pumped over 120 feet through the insulated crawl space between the first and second stories of my house. If my algebra & geometry are right, that's over a gallon of NSW sitting in ~75 degrees, for hours before it's delivered to my sump (the Dos delivers the 2 gallons in small amounts spread out through the the day). This prevents any appreciable temperature fluctuations.
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I decided not to drill the tank for fittings below the waterline to reduce the risk of flooding. The salt water is circulated with an inexpensive sump pump and some PVC pipe. It is set to run for 30 minutes every 4 hours with a simple lamp timer. When making NSW, I turn the AWC off and run the RODI overnight. I mix in the salt with a canoe paddle and run the pump for a few hours before resuming normal operations.
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I have a BRS 150 RODI filter mounter under my laundry room sink. I get at least 200 gallons a day thanks to the ~75 psi from the utility (an advantage of living within a mile of a water tower).
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I mounted the filters on drawer slides to aid in servicing the cartridges. I also installed a plastic mat and a leak detection probe that's wired to my Apex with a 100 ft telephone extension cord.
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I keep 30 gallons of RODI water (stored in 5g jugs left over from my pre-RODI days) in case I need to mix up NSW for an emergent large water change. I can make up another 30 gallons in less than 4 hours.
The RODI also serves as my ATO. It is controlled with 3 float switches attached to a BOB and a solenoid valve plugged into my Apex. The low switch opens the solenoid, the middle switch turns it off, the high switch and float valve are for back up, alarms, etc. The ATO fills about 2 gallons every 18-20 hours. This is my compromise between running the RODI too frequently and allowing large fluctuations in salinity. For my set up, that's about a 1% volume fluctuation which has never registered a salinity change on the Apex's graphs. The NSW of my AWC is delivered into a stand pipe (1/2" pvc) that is taller than the NSW tank, preventing a siphon in the case of a Dos failure. The OSW is pumped to a nearby sewer vent in the attic.
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First post in about 10 years...im back at it. Thanks for all who posted there systems. Setting up a 300dd in about a month and will use many of these ideas here.