SC Aquariums Owners Thread

Yep - my 150 is a load- I am 6'3" and 300 pounds, my son is 6'1" 250 and we moved it off the pallet and put it on the stand a few feet away , but it wasn't all that easy.
 
You can aim a LOT more with RW then the WAV so keep that in mind as you look at your rockwork and such. The WAVs are limited in angle. While they have some it is limited. I found it to be perfect amount when on the side glass for my setup though.

Seeing the new gyre controller and line out if I were to do it now I would have 2 gyre 150 (which is now 230 I think) and 2 PP8 on the back wall to clean up deadspots. Run the gyres at antisync with periods of them both on to smash water into one another and add confusion and you have a great setup.

I don't want to have anything attached to the tank sides if I can help it - so the wave pumps= Gyre's, MP's, Wave's, or RW's wont face each other. I am going to try and place all of them on the back wall.
 
All depends on how you set up your rock work Acer. I have too much rock and coral in my tank to allow PH to only be on the back wall.
 
Anyone know how much an empty SCA 120G weights? I should be picking up a year old never used one in the next couple weeks.

I threw this in a 3D modeling program i use at work (Solidworks). A 120 48x 24 x 24 w/ 12mm glass is around ~197lbs

 
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Awesome. Thank you.

I'll get the ABS bulkheads on order and setup a simple durso overflow. I don't need much flow through the sump ~300 gallons
 
Guys, do any of you have a template for the bottom of a 150 (60"). Building my stand and not sure of the cutout for the overflows exiting the bottom. Jerry
 
Update on the Stand:
I only get a few hours at a time to work on it but I am just about ready to get this thing inside and get the tank on it. Just a few finishing touches.
Back end:

Sides:One side, the shallow side, will be used to install the electronics.


Stained:

Inside Epoxy Painted Gray and Iron Clavos Accents:

Doors:

On the inside of the doors and in the corners of the cabinet I installed and epoxied rare earth magnets to keep the doors shut. Not matter what I have done in the past, metal always rusts with salt water tanks. So with this tank there is no exposed metal in the interior of the stand.

So here it is ready for paint. The final steps will be to chalk paint and distress the exterior.

The stand will look similar to this piece of furniture we had done in our house:

More to come later......
 
Good thread!
I am also taking the SCA tank route..purchased a used 50 but didn't get the durso pipe that goes in the overflow. Anyone have the length of the durso assembled? Dont want to make it the wrong height. Thanks!

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MannyHernz If you go to gmacreef.com, based on what overflow style you choose you will find what you need there to customize it to your overflow.
 
Following along this thread. A lot of good information so thanks to all who contributed.

I am thinking about buying the 210 gallon tank but $3,000 is quite pricey for me. Is SCA pretty firm on the price or is there room for negotiation? I saw earlier someone made an offer and got a pretty good deal. Any insights are greatly appreciated.
 
there is typically some wiggle room and if you buy things like a stand or equipment you can get some decent deals. IE If you were looking to get Ecotech or Kessil lighting they can normally hook you up.
 
For those that had the .5" and 1" overflow, how did you configure your overflow? I only plan to have 300 GPH or so of flow through the sump. Return is a Eheim 1262.

I ordered the ABS bulkheads and .5" loc line. I don't want to drill it.
 
why would you want a glass top? That stops gas exchange, allows salt creep on the glass which impacts par, and numerous other issues.
 
I'd do a screen over glass any day. Have you looked at the ClearView lids? I'll be ordering one for my custom build here soon.

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I'd do a screen over glass any day. Have you looked at the ClearView lids? I'll be ordering one for my custom build here soon.

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ClearView lids are made by a local company named Artfully Acrylic in Manassas VA, great guys! I've seen their work in both custom tanks and the lids, fantastic work. They also have a space next door to their shop where they sell corals and fish (named Incredible Corals), the only place I buy my corals now!
 
why would you want a glass top? That stops gas exchange, allows salt creep on the glass which impacts par, and numerous other issues.

Glass tops keep fish and water in - i.e. they cut down greatly on evaporation. They can also keep kids and cats out of the tank. I had a local glass shop cut me a top for my SCA 50g cube, and used 10mm clips from Innovative Marine to place it over the aquarium, resulting in a small gap between the top and the sides. I have zero salt creep, and dust it every few days with a dusting wand.

I also really wish the theory of limited gas exchange when employing a glass or acrylic top would die - with the turnover of water from sump and back, plus a skimmer running, there are typically zero issues with having a glass top on the tank.
 
As zooman has pointed out this 150 is going in a closet of a bedroom that has become my office. I want the tank sealed up tight to reduce the humidity inside the closet. The sump and related equipment sits in the basement below this closet which would allow for plenty of air exchange.
 
As zooman has pointed out this 150 is going in a closet of a bedroom that has become my office. I want the tank sealed up tight to reduce the humidity inside the closet. The sump and related equipment sits in the basement below this closet which would allow for plenty of air exchange.
 
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