Scarlett legged hermits and cyano...

[hobbyfish]

I've been battling cyano for a loooong time now and have read that scarlett legged hermits are crazy for the stuff. Can anyone back that up? Better yet does anyone have any? Maybe in Spring Hill??? I went to a certain LFS that recently closed in the boro and they tried to sell me a Koralia nano, and lots of other junk, for more flow, which I already have one in my nano. So two is too much IMO. Anyway, I really want to get this stuff under control without relying on doing water changes with airline tubing because that SUCKS! Sorry for the rambling. Just slap me. I've had like a dozen Rockstars. I'm going to crash now. See you at the meet.......

Adam

 

[AdrianBryce]

Water changes are the most effective way to get it under control. If you don't want more flow (I would recommend you do get another K-nano, as they amount of flow they provide is mediocre at best), try repositioning your powerhead, at least. You aren't going to find anything that will make a dent in it by eating it alone. What are your parameters? That is where I would start, see what is out of whack in your tank, the do some water changes.

 

[SRT80]

Cyano, that's the red slime stuff right? When I first setup my 20, I got it. 1 treatment with chemiclean, it was gone and never came back.

Setup a 10 gal. Same thing. 1 treatment...gone.

When I setup my 80 gal. Same thing.

It has never came back in any of my tanks. The 10 is no longer setup, but the 20 and 80 are still. Might wanna give it a try.

http://www.marvelousproducts.com/Chemiclean-Red-Slime-Algae-Remover-p/chemiclean.htm

Steve

 

[hobbyfish]

Water changes are the most effective way to get it under control. If you don't want more flow (I would recommend you do get another K-nano, as they amount of flow they provide is mediocre at best), try repositioning your powerhead, at least. You aren't going to find anything that will make a dent in it by eating it alone. What are your parameters? That is where I would start, see what is out of whack in your tank, the do some water changes.

Adrian,

My parameters are as follows:
pH = 8.0
Ammonia= 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 0
Phosphate = 0
Temp = 80
Calc = 460 - 470
dKH = 7.7
Alk = 2.74

I use Instant Ocean salt for now since I couldn't get reef crystals when I needed them. Hope that helps.

Cyano, that's the red slime stuff right? When I first setup my 20, I got it. 1 treatment with chemiclean, it was gone and never came back.

Setup a 10 gal. Same thing. 1 treatment...gone.

When I setup my 80 gal. Same thing.

It has never came back in any of my tanks. The 10 is no longer setup, but the 20 and 80 are still. Might wanna give it a try.

http://www.marvelousproducts.com/Chemiclean-Red-Slime-Algae-Remover-p/chemiclean.htm

Steve

Steve,

I've heard about this chemiclean stuff but I'm hesitant to use it. Chemical warfare is a last resort for me and I'm really trying to do things naturally. Thanks for the input though. I really appreciate it.

Adam

 

[MVlk]

When I have gotten it in the past, nothing worked but a dose of Chemiclean. More flow did little to nothing. I have used it a few times on various tanks and never had an issue with fish/corals. I do recommend doing two treatments back to back to insure all traces are gone.

 

[AdrianBryce]

I personally would stick with water changes and manual removal (sucking it up through the tube during your water changes.) It will take much longer, but that is always how I have gotten rid of it. Also adding more turbulent flow. That is all I can recommend. I have now experience with the chemical solution.

 

[zef004]

Do you dose vodka or any Cardon. What you use to test your po4 & no3.
And have to agree with Everyones post above.

 

[SRT80]

Same here, never had any issues with my fish or corals. I did try the manual removal and water changes, more flow...it never helped. The chemiclean got rid of it and it never came back.

Good luck...
Steve

 

[cee]

PO4 and NO2 are not 0 in spite of what your test kits are telling you. In a newer tank when the chemistry is not quite stable it can be difficult to eradicate. Flow definately helps but I've resorted to ChemiClean in the past and have experienced no ill effects. Good luck.

Dave

 

[VandyTime]

Make sure the water is well aerated when you use the ChemiClean and you should be fine.

 

[andywe]

Yep, chemiclean. Airate, remove carbon, turn off skimmer, and follow instructions. Sucking up via water changes doesn't really work. It still remains in the sandbed.

 

[hobbyfish]

Do you dose vodka or any Cardon. What you use to test your po4 & no3.
And have to agree with Everyones post above.

I use API tests for those. At this time I am not dosing vodka except in my Dr. Pepper

 

[hobbyfish]

PO4 and NO2 are not 0 in spite of what your test kits are telling you. In a newer tank when the chemistry is not quite stable it can be difficult to eradicate. Flow definately helps but I've resorted to ChemiClean in the past and have experienced no ill effects. Good luck.

Dave

Dave,

I understand I might not have the most sensitive test kits by using API. Can you recommend a better or more sensitive brand? I'm using these since they are what I bought a couple years ago when I got into the hobby. When they get used up I'm thinking about Salifert. Thanks for your input man.

Make sure the water is well aerated when you use the ChemiClean and you should be fine.

Do you mean like hook up an air pump and stone? Or is my idiot showing?

Yep, chemiclean. Airate, remove carbon, turn off skimmer, and follow instructions. Sucking up via water changes doesn't really work. It still remains in the sandbed.

That makes sense man. I didn't really think about that. Thanks guys!:beer:

 

[cee]

PO4 use a Hanna photometer or the Deltec/Merck kit. Nitrate I've yet to find a good one although I did like my LaMotte's back in the day. Saliferts is what I use know but I have a hard time distinguishing between subtle shades of pink.

 

[VandyTime]

An airstone or pump with bubbles will work.

 

[hobbyfish]

Wow those Merck kits are way more than I expected to pay for them. I'm a firm believer in "You get what you pay for" though. I'll put it on my wish list. As for nitrates, like I said, I'm using the API kit. It's ok but the shades of yellow are my problem. You have to hold them just right and in the right light. I'm from the gamer generation and I would prefer a digital readout but I'd probably have to pay a fortune for that convenience. Thanks for the advice!

 

[SRT80]

With the API kits, it helps holding under flourescent lighting. At least that's what someone at AC told me years ago.

Not saying not too, but I never used a air stone when I treated with chemiclean. I just turned off the skimmer and removed carbon and dosed. Followed by a 25% water change and it was gone.

Steve

 

[commonstranger]

Alot of good avice your getting Adam. Do some of these things and youll have it under control.

 

[zef004]

Hanna checkermeter is around $40. That's your best bet for PO4. I use the lamotte which is 60-$80 but to refill them it's like 30-$50. For my no2.

Now with the API test kit we check the po4 next to my highend hannameter and the andys checkermeter. Both metters was off by .02-.01. And API was way off I think it's was 12.0-21.0ppm.

 

[hobbyfish]

Oh wow man that's terrible! I checked e-bay for the Hanna meter. $37 is not bad at all especially since all you have to do is dip it in the water and BLAM there's your result. I like that. Still gonna have a hard time talking my wife into dropping $60-80 on a LaMotte kit though. I'm working on it. Sounds like API is better suited for freshwater which is more forgiving on it's parameter requirements.