Scott's 270 aka Project Mayhem

You da man!!!:thumbsup:

I am 100% happy with my Profilux but...when you mentioned it in the same sentence with the word "networking" I'll admit I shed a small tear for you LOL. I shutter only becuase it is so far from my area of expertise and it took me a looooong time to set up. I had a buddy come over who specializes in online banking security and he couldn't figure it out initially.

On another note, I gotta say I really like the RD3 skimmer pump. Got mine last Friday and that thing is super quite and producing a consistent volume of skimmate within the first 24 hours of usage. I am now seriously thinking about getting the RE 50w RD3 return pump. Using the ATB 1800 (Askoll) pump now and getting more vibration than I would like. I can feel it when touching my return plumbing in the tank. My concern is that I would like to use silicone tubing to connect the pump to my plumbing but thinking about what happened to you would end my reefing days if water happened to end up on the floor.
 
RE has the 80w version coming out as well if it's not out yet already. That way you could dial it down which increases the electrical efficiency. It's supposed to be 0-10V controllable as well. You could have a float valve on the tank or sump that could shut off your return pump in the case of a blocked overflow! That's my goal with my Abyzz setup. I agree, my 50w RD3 skimmer is darn quiet! It's louder than my two 200w Abyzz pumps but it's drawing in air intentionally so I don't think that's a fair comparison on my end.

I have sourced the titanium worm gear hose clamps. They are on there way to my house tomorrow. The unfortunate part is ~$55 per clamp.The benefit, peace of mind :)

I have my friend coming over tomorrow to help me. He is a network programmer for the local library system haahaa! He figures my router assigned a new IP and it threw things for a loop.

Once I get this stuff sorted out I am going to start in on the programmable logic, AWC & ATO settings, etc. Exciting!
 
yeah, it's kinda nuts that at the price level of abyzz a200, it doesn't have some type of flange or union on the input/outputs, it also doesn't have a soft-start option, it just starts immediately at whatever power level you last set it at. Or maybe someone knows how to program a soft start up..? I've had the a200 for couple months, unreal silence with power(20+ feet of head pressure) and Abyzz includes a 10 year warranty. On the clamping to a200, not sure if this is acceptable for you, but could glue a slip adapter that converts metric to standard, then glue a thread adapter into the standard slip side. This requires permanently pvc gluing the adapter onto the pump spigots though, which may not be something you want. Coralvue lists these adapters on their site - http://www.coralvue.com/metric-to-imperial-pvc-adapters. I looked for an adapter with slip metric to our standard MNPT or FNPT but couldn't find anything, that would have been real nice.
 
Hi sreuland! I have been trying to stay away from glueing directly to the pump. One for noise, two for there is no going back after that haahaa. I will have to look at my pump manuals. I thought there was some sort of a soft start built in but I could definitely be wrong. I already have the titanium hose clamps on their way so I will go with that for now. But it's good to know there is a metric to imperial fitting.
 
I think we have all the bugs worked out on the profilux networking. We had to go back in to the home router and give the profilux MAC address a dedicated IP address in case there was a power outage. That way when it all booted up again it didn't reassign an IP address that didn't match the dynDNS programming. I also increased my max time out to 10000ms. Now the fun begins and I can start programming all the features that I actually bought the controller for! ATO & AWC, feeding modes, maintenance modes, bla bla bla!

And on top of it all I am seeing great growth in the tank already. my green monti cap has grown ~1" along it's entire growth edge in under 3 months. The sunrise & seasons greetings months are starting to really spread as is the undata. My space invaders pectina is responding well to frequent mysis feedings. Before that it was looking a little iffy.

I still have a algae & cyano issue in the sand but I am not freaking out and just giving the tank time to mature as well as regular water changes. I need to test my RO/DI water to makes sure the resin isn't exhausted already as well. But of course I am out at work again and can't do it for another week. I picked up the new Tropic Marin Bio-actif salt and I am going to give a pail a try. I was a little concerned that the "active carbon source" in the salt, mixed with my BP reactor would create a bloom in the tank but my LFS assured me there wasn't a large amount of the carbon source in the salt. I have only done a 20g wc since getting the pail so I can't really comment on it yet. The first thing I did notice is that the salt was crusty in the pail. I don't know if it was supposed to be like that or if if was a little humid at the factory when packaged?

Cheers!
Scott
 
I may be wrong but I think that unless you pay for a static IP from your provider, if you lose power you will have to add the new router IP to dyndns. Everything else behind the router will stay the same
 
Nope. The address you get will stay the same until your service decides to reassign them. Normally it will stay the same for months and then just change on you. Thats why you need the DYN service to pass along the new IP address to your system. Internally your IP address assigned to your devices will change unless you specifically set a device up to maintain its address.

Sonicboom said:
I may be wrong but I think that unless you pay for a static IP from your provider, if you lose power you will have to add the new router IP to dyndns. Everything else behind the router will stay the same
Click to expand...
 
Our router has built in DNS tab that we put my dynDNS account info into. That combined with locking down the internal MAC address of the profilux to an internal IP address has assured us that either a power outage or random reassignment of the external IP address shouldn't alter my ability to connect to the profilux.

So far so good!

But in Sonciboom's defence, there is an option for a static IP address from our provider. Unfortunately it is not available to finer optic users yet so we can't get it. It costs about the same, if not a little more than the dynDNS account.
 
So according to my wife I am having a fairly crappy cyan breakout. I am going to get siphoning when I get home and I will dial back my flow through the GFO to give the Biopellets a little more Phosphates to help consume nitrates. I will likely also hit the tank with some chemipure or red slime remover.

My biggest questions is since the chemipure will hit the bacterial mat (aka cyano), will it not roast my biopellet reactor as well?
 
Scythanith said:
So according to my wife I am having a fairly crappy cyan breakout. I am going to get siphoning when I get home and I will dial back my flow through the GFO to give the Biopellets a little more Phosphates to help consume nitrates. I will likely also hit the tank with some chemipure or red slime remover.

My biggest questions is since the chemipure will hit the bacterial mat (aka cyano), will it not roast my biopellet reactor as well?
Click to expand...

Was the cyano as bad as reported? As you know, pinpointing the exact cause of the outbreak is difficult. In order to eliminate your biopellets as the source I would make sure the output of your reactor is pointed directly at the intake of your skimmer and your pellets aren't tumbling excessively fast. You also may want to consider the addition of some probiotics (MB7, Biodigest, etc.,) as they typically work and have multi system benefits. They are also reported to bring a bacterial balance to your system as well.
 
I don't think it's super bad upon seeing it in person. It's definitely an issue though. I will siphon, and refresh with new saltwater. Then I will go pick up some prodibio product and go that route…. seems the least invasive.
 
Here are some quick shots. They aren't all corrected, unsharpened, bla bla bla but you get the idea!

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Here is what came in the mail while I was gone.

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They are 100% titanium. They have a bit of a plasticized coating on them. I am being asked wether or not this is cyano or dino's. I think it's cyano but are there any more tell tale signs or give-aways for either or?

The algae itself is reddish to maroon. It's more of a matt, less stringy. It goes away at night and comes back in the day. It's on the rocks and the sand.

Suggestions welcome!
 
I do and I can. I already dialled the 4000K and the 6500K down to 30%. I will do the same with the reds/greens as well.
 
Try to skim a little wetter. If your doing bi weekly water changes, do weekly changes and maybe larger ones. I've been thru this battle and it takes time. You could siphon the larger portions out so when it dies, it doesn't pollute the tank even more. Keep the feedings light too. I would stay away from chemicals, but that's just me. Maybe because its just a cover up to the problem. If you fix it naturally, then you know you've solved the issue. So I would keep everything else how you would normally maintain the tank the same...like the lighting type, duration of lighting, and temp. Main thing is you gotta get out whatever is feeding that stuff asap.

If you don't have one already, might be a good idea to get a phosphate reactor. This will help keep phosphates in check...especially if it's leaking from your rocks. But I'm sure you already either have one or are looking into it.
 
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