Scott's 270 aka Project Mayhem

Thanks rygar, I will go adjust the skimmer. I am going to keep everything the same for the most part. I am going to add some prodibio to help with the nutrients though. I have a GFO reactor already rocking :) It's been going since the tank was set up in November. Nothing has changed since I set up the tank so I am thinking it's my RODI system or the rock work leaching. We feed one cube of thawed and rinsed PE Mysis a day. There are 5 fish in the tank (2 helfriches, yellow tang, long nose hawkfish, royal gramma) and they take over a minute to eat the food. There are some larger pieces floating around even 5 minutes after the initial feeding but I don't want to have to start cutting the blocks in half.
 
Sounds like you might have to start cutting those blocks in half if there is food still floating after a few minutes. Mine go nuts and try to rip it out of my hand. Also make sure you set the return to feed mode so no food goes in the overflow.
 
I really want to avoid that haahaa! I'd rather buy more fish :) I have the feed mode 1 on the profilux touch set for the vortechs to go into feed mode. I have not wired the abyzz pumps to the profilux yet. Some of my reasoning is when I do an update or have profilux issue then PAB system sometimes goes down and all the power bars shut off. I don't want my return pumps to arbitrarily shut on and off. So for now they are running on their own power circuit.

After a good heart to heart with my buddy (and LFS owner) he encouraged me to try shutting down the BP reactor and just running GFO, strong skimming, and some regular water changes before getting into the chemical means of clean up. He think that it looks more like diatoms. So far I have been told cyano, dinos, and diatoms haahaa! Either way, they all link back to excess nutrients.

Colby tested for nitrates and they came out 0.2-0.5, and my phosphates came out 0.00 on my Hanna meter. My RODI is reading 21ppm TDS and my tap water is 199ppm TDS before the unit. I know I need to replace my DI resin so I am hoping that cuts the TDS way down. Salinity is on the high side. My test shows 1.027 and Colby saw 1.028 on his unit. I pulled two pails (about 3% of total water volume) of saltwater and put in two pails RODI. I am going to go test after this post.
 
I think that is Cyano. My sandbed looked just like that last August. I was gone for a month and my RODI went from bad to worse during my absence. I got my phosphates down and got back on a regular maintenance schedule and things were good in about 90 days.

Looking forward to your feedback on the clamps. I probably will get the 80w RD3 and will also need a solution to keep the hose securely in place. I know Royal Exclusiv offers a custom length tube extended the pump output out of the water so you can clamp it down with SS clamps but I'm not sure I will have enough room to make that work. Anyway...let's so those clamps in action!
 
It's too soon to say much about the clamps. I bought the 50-70mm version and I should have bought the 40-60mm. There is quite the tail hanging off of the clamp when tightened but that's not a big deal really. The worm didn't slip while tightening and the teflon didn't flake off either. It's not the most exciting thing but here is a picture of it in action haahaa!

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On a side note, did you see RE opened up a state side retail store & warehouse! That's awesome for parts and support. Great move on their part.

I will just keep trucking along with my regular water changes. I dropped the salinity from 1.027 to 1.025-1.026ish. My testing today revealed alk, ca & mg, which I think are good (8.4, 420, 1200). Now just to keep up with it and hopefully the algae goes away :)
 
Any reason you keep the salinity that high? I thought I read the higher the salinity the less oxygen in the water.
 
No specific reason. That's just what I usually kept my tanks at. 1.026-1.027 was normal for my tanks and I never had issues. So under Colby's recommendations I brought it down.
 
Understood, you may have more room to play with 1.026. I keep mine at 1.024-25 but that's because I am trying to simulate tides and at night I slow my return down for 6 hrs.
 
Yea for the time being until you buy more fish i would cut the blocks in half and feed like that to atleast bring nutrients down. Just my 2 cents. Maybe even skip a day in between feedings.
 
Thanks guys. I will start halving the blocks for now. I am waiting to order a harem of 4-5 golden rhomboid's so once I get those in I am sure I will be able to feed a whole block. I am still waiting for profilux to catch up and put out an automatic feeder like the Apex unit. I will want some anthias as well and they will benefit from frequent small feedings as will my helfriches.
 
Understood, you may have more room to play with 1.026. I keep mine at 1.024-25 but that's because I am trying to simulate tides and at night I slow my return down for 6 hrs.

I looked at this again and please excuse my ignorance but what does salinity have to do with tide simulation?
 
My algae is starting to clean up but of course I was called back out to work! In the end I pulled the Bio pellets offline, did ~20g water change while siphoning the top layer of sand, dialled my white channels down in the lights, and started skimming really wet. Right before heading to work I changed out the GAC, and returned the light to the normal program and things were looking better. Here's hoping it's all good when I get back :)
 
I also struggled with cyanobacteria, this problem arose after I installed the reactor biopelets. He was open, then I changed it to closed it gave me the ability to control and direct the flow of it.
I sent a stream in the area of the fence and adjusted my skimmer boiling granules.
Now all gone, there is little in low flow areas.
 
Some of my Euphyllia sp. haven't been looking the best. I lost two of my high end hammers to brown jelly. It was one after the other, not at the same time. I tried fragging and it didn't work. My blue/gold hammer is a little upset, but not receding. The pink/gold hammer was looking a little recessed so I sent it to my friends tank that has been keeping Euphyllia well. I still have a gold torch that looks great, as well as an orange tipped frogspawn. The other LPS in the tank look fine as well.

Parameters are: 7.9 pH, 8.4 dKh, 420 Ca, 1.026 sg, 26c temp

The lighting is 3 Mitras running at 60% capacity. In tank flow is 4 MP40's running random reef crest at ~50-60% of maximum.

There are astrea & nassarius snails, strawberry and fighting conch's, a couple small horseshoe crabs, and a large long spine urchin in the tank for a clean up crew. Fish are 2 helfriches fire fish, a long nosed hawkfish, royal gramma, and a yellow tang.
 
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