Seahorse Death. Internal Parasites? What to do?

prettyfishy76

New member
My husband and I purchased 3 wild (seems like a mistake to have gotten wild) Tiger Tail seahorses from our LFS about 1 month ago. There were 2 males and 1 female.

Tank Set-Up:
29-gallon BioCube w/Retrofitted LED Lighting
Live Rock
Various Soft Corals
Various Snails
1 Lawnmower Blenny
1 Peppermint Shrimp
- Attempted to remove blenny and peppermint shrimp from aquarium before we placed seahorses in, but it turned out to be impossible to catch either of them. Luckily, neither posed any issue towards the horses.
Seahorse Diet: Live Ghost Shrimp (gut-fed with frozen mysis shrimp and marine pellets) and occasionally, Live Brine Shrimp

When we introduced the seahorses to our aquarium, two horses were eating. One did not have an appetite. We kept an eye on that particular seahorse and noticed within a day or so that he was breathing heavily and still not eating. His breathing became more and more labored with instances of "coughing." Water parameters were perfect, but water temperature was a bit high, between 78/79 degrees Fahrenheit.

I did some research and it appeared as if he might have gill flukes. So, we placed this seahorse in a freshwater dip for approx. 12 minutes. He twitched/convulsed a bit and you could sea small white organisms emerge and float around the bowl. From what I have read, these organisms would be gill flukes, correct? Afterwards, he was placed back with his tank mates.

The next day, we bought Ruby Reef's Rally and dosed the tank for 3 days. We also used a fan to lower the tank's temperature. The seahorse that we did a freshwater dip on seemed to be doing slightly better. His breathing was slowing down with each day. The issue now was that he still wasn't eating while the other two seahorses hunted all day for their food and ate the live food that was presented to them.

Two days ago, our lawnmower blenny died. He was so full of life, but perhaps there wasn't enough natural algae to sustain him. I tried to feed him algae, but he was never interested in it. However, he did not look emaciated. When I found him, he had a bunch of "bugs" climbing over his dead body. I'm not sure if his condition is related to the problem seahorse or not.

During the last two days, the sickly seahorse began breathing hard again. Last night, 07/18/12, he had finally gone long enough without eating and began to die. He just laid on the sand, with his tail straight behind him. The female seahorse remained at his side. His breathing was harsh, but slow. His skin had started to become pale. I knew these were the poor thing's last moments. He died shortly thereafter.

I removed the dead seahorse from the tank and looked at his body. I did not sea ANY outward signs of disease, other than his shrunken belly where he basically starved to death.

The other male has started to show signs of labored breathing and did not show any interest in his food last night. He "coughs" and at times shakes his head. The female ate with NO issues at all. The remaining male had LONG, STRINGY white feces coming out of his anal opening. He probably has gill flukes, but due to the feces, does it seem as if he has internal parasites? Could this be what was causing the same issues with the now-dead seahorse?

We performed a water test and the Nitrates were at 10 and the Kh and Calcium were low. Other than that, everything else looked good. I did a water change and added a Calcium and Carbonate Alkalinity buffer to raise their levels and another dose of Rally to the tank. I also put a fan on the tank to drop the temperature. The temperature is normally at 76, but I was able to get it down to 73/74 degrees Fahrenheit. I also placed an air stone in the tank to increase the oxygen in the water.

I sincerely do not want to lose another seahorse. The death that happened yesterday hit me VERY hard. I hate that I was unable to help him. That is why I am asking for help. What are your thoughts as to what could be wrong? What medications should I give them? I do not have a quarantine tank at the moment, but if I need to set one up quickly, I most certainly will find a way to do so by any means. These fish are the world to me.

When I get home from work this evening, I will recheck the water parameters and post the numbers.

I apologize for my long post, but I wanted to give you as much information as I could.

Thank you in advance for your help.
 
i would Oslo start trying to add frozen mysis to their diet and try and convert them. it can be done but honestly i have had nothing but bad luck with wc seahorses.
 
I will do the FW dip this evening. What is the best amount of time to leave them in the freshwater? I don't want to keep them in their too little or too long.

I will do my best in converting them to eating the frozen mysis. I was told that the two males were already eating frozen at the LFS, but they have NEVER shown any interest in the frozen mysis that I put in their tank. Until then, is there a good place to purchase live mysis? None of the LFS in my area sell them.

I wish I would have known better before we purchased the wild-caught seahorses. All I can do now is take care of these guys to the best of my ability. If I decide to continue with seahorses, true tank-raised will be my only option.
 
Well hopefully Ann will see this post and help out as she is amazing with seahorse problems.
Usually wild caught or tank raised seahorses are recommended to be put through a 3 drug, 9 week protocol to deworm although in my experience I have losses during the process but probably not as many as if I didn't do it.
Unfortunately there is no such thing as "perfect" water conditions in seahorse tanks. Water quality degrades even though our testing shows certain specifics to be within range as we don't have tests for a lot of things.
Any treatments should always be done in a hospital/quarantine tank.
I use a ten gallon, changing 50% of the water each day.
Airstones in the aquarium don't supply much more oxygen to the tank because the bubbles have a surface tension to them that doesn't allow for any exchange other than at the surface.
What will improve it is the increased surface movement of the water due to either power heads or open ended air lines that cause more of that surface agitation.
Deworming Protocol
Ann's Seahorse Medication Dosage Reference
 
rayjay, thank you for the explanations and links. I am also glad you corrected about the air stones.

In regards to a hospital tank, does it need substrate? Also, I should just be able to put water from the main tank in it and throw in a piece of live rock and some hitching posts? Do I even need live rock? Since I'm doing this in a hurry, so I can start dosing the seahorses, I want to make sure I set it up correctly. Even if the female is not showing any signs of worms/parasites, should I put both seahorses in the same quarantine tank?
 
Rayjay will fw dips kill worms or just internal parasites ?
I believe FW dips only kill off external parasites, not internal.
It should be done for 12 minutes in a container of aged water matching as close as possible, the temperature and pH of the tank water. Only remove the seahorse early if it becomes unresponsive to touching.

rayjay, thank you for the explanations and links. I am also glad you corrected about the air stones.

In regards to a hospital tank, does it need substrate? Also, I should just be able to put water from the main tank in it and throw in a piece of live rock and some hitching posts? Do I even need live rock? Since I'm doing this in a hurry, so I can start dosing the seahorses, I want to make sure I set it up correctly. Even if the female is not showing any signs of worms/parasites, should I put both seahorses in the same quarantine tank?
Use no substrate or live rock as this is a treatment tank and most treatments are going to kill off anything of any value in the rock/sand.
Use hitching and new salt water matching the temperature, specific gravity and pH of the tank water. You will go through a lot of salt water for the deworming protocol with 50% changes daily. I would also drop the temperature to 68° but no more than 4° per day.
As for one or both seahorses, I personally would do both but some would say you only treat the affected seahorse.
If it was a case of bacteria infection I would only do the affected seahorse but in this case if one has the worms it's probable that both have them.
When I buy tank raised seahorses I automatically deworm them and don't wait for problem signs.
 
rayjay, thanks again for the detailed information. I was curious, though, to see if moving them into a quarantine tank will stress them out more than they already are... I know seahorses are sensitive and I don't want to add more stress to them than I need to. Is it not possible to treat them in the main tank?

Also, I took a look at the two remaining seahorses and noticed that they may have ich. When I first got them, I thought they might have a case of it, but it was SO hard to tell if the white spots were apart of their coloring or if it was actually ich. The spots weren't raised at the time, so I wasn't too worried. However, when I looked at them both last night, especially the male that has labored breathing, I noticed that they both had white spots that were raised. The male had them around his eyes and had a few down his snout. I went ahead and started to dose the tank with Kick-Ich, since I have always had great success with this product. I know in Freshwater fish that you need to raise the temperature to help kill off the ich, but I'm not sure if I can do that with the seahorses since they need the lower temperatures. Any suggestions? The temperature is currently between 70 and 72 degrees.
 
In my ten years, I've never encountered "ich" on any of my seahorses.
Also, I've never, in 19yrs of reefing and the years of seahorse keeping, treated fish in display tanks.
I can't advise you on something I have no experience with.
I would first be sure that you really do have ich present and not something like gas bubble disease starting, or other parasites. Watch for increase size of the spots as it's also possible that bacteria may be causing the spots.
The deworming treatment can't be done in a display tank.
You may be best to check out the "wild caught" forum on seahorse.org to see if others have similar experiences.
 
I will keep an eye on the spots. These are our first seahorses, so we are still learning and I certainly appreciate the advice.

I will try and get a good photo of the spots and keep you updated on their progress.

My husband is trying to talk me out of putting them in a quarantine tank for the deworming. That is why I asked my initial question about the extra stress on the seahorses. I'm glad to know that you've been keeping reef systems and seahorses for quite a few years and that may make my case to get them in the other tank.
 
Nevermind the spots. I think that was my imagination.

The male is still breathing hard and not eating. He goes into the quarantine tank later today with the live food soaked in the dewormer. I am not sure if he will eat or not, but here's hoping. Actually, if they don't eat on their own, is it possible to tube feed them or something like that? His sides are caved in a little... I don't want to see him starve to death.
 
Have you tried to feed live mysids or live adult brine?
If that doesn't work you will have to make a "gruel" of food, and feed about .5ml of the gruel each time.
Use a cannula attached to a syringe and make sure you insert the cannula past the gills or the food will just come out.
 
rayjay and FishGrrl, THANK YOU so much for the advice. We were able to tube feed the H. comes. He became sedated very quickly and my husband was successful in getting the catheter where it needed to reach and we barely lost any food out the seahorse's gills. The fish ate most of the .5ml of food. I mixed him up some mysis, vitamins and wormer. I hope it perks him up.

If he continues to not eat on his own, should we tube feed him at least twice a day? I wasn't sure how often you can sedate seahorses.

Here is a photo of the poor little thing in his recovery bowl, waking up from sedation:
seahorse_AFTER_TUBE_FEEDING_072212.jpg
 
The seahorse is now hanging upside down. He doesn't seem like he is able to hitch vertically. My husband had him hitch on his finger and he was not vertical. Instead, the fish's nose pointed down. I sincerely think this one may not make it. His eyes rarely move, too. Should I feed him again?
 
Sedating multiple times per day is fine, as long as he wakes fully each time. I don't know of any cases of complications from either clove oil or ms-222 as long as the dosage is right. And even then, they're pretty safe. Twice a day is better, especially at this stage where he needs to build up his strength again. I'd even try three times a day if you can manage it, morning, afternoon, before bed.

Good luck!
 
You posted right as I was. Have you seen any poop? I might wait until the morning just because what you might be seeing is a stressed reaction to the feeding. It's also sadly possible that your assessment is right and he might be too far gone. I'd give it until the morning before trying again though, just to see how he does.

One additional thing you may want to try is adding b12 to the gruel. B12 is an appetite stimulant, and may help him start eating on his own again. Probably not right away, but possibly sooner than without.
 
Here is a photo of him hanging down from the tank decorations. Sorry about the odd coloring of the photo. I had to use the flash to be able to see him. He blended in with his hitch.

He doesn't look good - sort of "dead" to the world around him.

seahorse03.jpg
 
You posted right as I was. Have you seen any poop? I might wait until the morning just because what you might be seeing is a stressed reaction to the feeding. It's also sadly possible that your assessment is right and he might be too far gone. I'd give it until the morning before trying again though, just to see how he does.

FishGrrl, I noticed that! I have been very hard to pry away from the computer trying to find out what is going on with this seahorse.

I have not seen any poop. I'll have my husband feed the seahorse again when he wakes up in the morning.
 
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