Show me your 20k Radium tanks?

Quick question about Radium bulbs, I am torn between ballast and bulb wattage. On Sanjays web site there isn't much increase in ppfd between the 250 watt and 400 watt on a hqi ballast, why is this? Also I really like the combo of dual 400 watt Radiums and a Dual Sunlight supply hqi ballast. Does anyone have any opinions on that setup par,growth,color wise.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13858412#post13858412 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by speeddemonlsr
Quick question about Radium bulbs, I am torn between ballast and bulb wattage. On Sanjays web site there isn't much increase in ppfd between the 250 watt and 400 watt on a hqi ballast, why is this? Also I really like the combo of dual 400 watt Radiums and a Dual Sunlight supply hqi ballast. Does anyone have any opinions on that setup par,growth,color wise.
Click to expand...

According to Sanjay's site, when comparing the 250 and 400 watter's on PFO HQI, the PPFD for the 250 is 85, and 147 for the 400. Seems like a big increase to me...?

SLS's HQI is the same internal ballasts as PFO, however Sunlight stopped making the 400W HPS/HQI ballast some time ago. And now PFO is stopping production of all halide components to focus on LED systems...
 
speeddemonlsr,

I'm not quite sure what you mean. I just checked Sanjay's website:

400 W radium on 400 W PFO HQI ballast = 147 ppfd
250 W radium on 250W PFO HQI ballast = 85 ppfd


That seems like a pretty significant difference to me.

that said, i think it has already been mentioned on this thread and others that the 250W Radium bulb is very different from the 400 W bulb.

The 250 W bulb is a true HQI bulb and will have better performance and life on an HQI ballast

The 400 W bulb is not rated for HQI and will not last long on an HQI ballast.

I personally went for three 250 W radiums on HQI ballasts for my 100G tank. I really like the color with this combination. I know many might disagree, but I think that 85 ppfd per bulb is enough light for SPS, especially if you supplement with T5 or VHO fluorescents. JMO.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13859048#post13859048 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Canarygirl
what's the best actinic bulb in T-5? For a look similar to the UVL "Super Actinic" VHO bulb?
Click to expand...

Giesemann Actinic+

Leonardo
 
Unfortunately, I don't think there is any T5 actinic that comes even close to a VHO actinic. If you are using a DIY system, it's easy to switch from T5 to VHO. You can use the same ballast, you will just need to change the end caps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13859337#post13859337 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Leonardo_
Giesemann Actinic+

Leonardo
Click to expand...


While many like the Giesemann Actinic+ for it's fluorescing qualities, I think it's necessary, due to the name, to clearly state that the G-mann Actinic+ is a blue, 450nm peaking, bulb, and not a true UV-violet actinic bulb. It's practically identical to ATI's Blue+, or UVL's new blue bulb...

Giesemann's true actinic bulb, with a 420 nm peak, is called the Pure Actinic..
 
right now I run two VHO super actinics on a PFO ballast and 4 80 watt T-5's on IC 660, in combo with halides. I am changing halide reflectors and have to give up either 2 of the T-5's, or the VHO setup due to space limitations. I thought it would be simpler to keep the T-5's rather than the VHO's + 2 T-5's, but I love my actinic look. Plus I will be running Radiums (1 400 on galaxy and 1 250 on HQI) so per Todd's earlier post I will not get an actinic spike from the those bulbs

Choice are
1) 2 radiums + 2 VHO Super Actinic + 2 T-5's (I'd probably go with 1 ATI blue+ and 1 ATI Aquablue Special), or

2) 2 radiums + 4 T-5's (2 ATI blue+, 1 ATI Aquablue Special and 1 ATI True Actinic or Geisemann Actinic+)

opinions? :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13859640#post13859640 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Todd March
While many like the Giesemann Actinic+ for it's fluorescing qualities, I think it's necessary, due to the name, to clearly state that the G-mann Actinic+ is a blue, 450nm peaking, bulb, and not a true UV-violet actinic bulb. It's practically identical to ATI's Blue+, or UVL's new blue bulb...

Giesemann's true actinic bulb, with a 420 nm peak, is called the Pure Actinic..
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I just checked it. Like you said, it is called pure Actinic :)

This is the only REAL actinic T5 bulb, comparable to the Phillips 03 T8-bulb.

Here's the spectrum of it:
Giessemanpureactinic.jpg


Leonardo
 
Todd,

I am running 2 250w 10k's on a pulse start ballast from Sunlight Supply. I also run 4 T5's, 1 aquablue special, 2 blue pluses and a pro color. I'm wanting more pop in color from some of my corals, if I switch to 250w radiums what ballast would be the best to them on, I'm a little confused by all this. And would I switch my T5 bulbs to different T5 bulbs to get more pop? Did that make sense? Thanks.

Janna
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13859662#post13859662 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Canarygirl
right now I run two VHO super actinics on a PFO ballast and 4 80 watt T-5's on IC 660, in combo with halides. I am changing halide reflectors and have to give up either 2 of the T-5's, or the VHO setup due to space limitations. I thought it would be simpler to keep the T-5's rather than the VHO's + 2 T-5's, but I love my actinic look. Plus I will be running Radiums (1 400 on galaxy and 1 250 on HQI) so per Todd's earlier post I will not get an actinic spike from the those bulbs

Choice are
1) 2 radiums + 2 VHO Super Actinic + 2 T-5's (I'd probably go with 1 ATI blue+ and 1 ATI Aquablue Special), or

2) 2 radiums + 4 T-5's (2 ATI blue+, 1 ATI Aquablue Special and 1 ATI True Actinic or Geisemann Actinic+)

opinions? :)
Click to expand...

PLEASE pic choice number 1. I'm running the exact same setup and it is AWESOME!!! You won't regret it!
 
May I ask what the advantages of the 20k radiums are over, say a 14k version? Some of the pics appear to be very blue, is this just a personal preference? Most reefers over here tend to stick with bulbs around the 12 - 14k range. I'm thinking of changing to radiums and was going to get 14k.

What do you guys think?

Dave.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13860122#post13860122 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JSM
Todd,

I am running 2 250w 10k's on a pulse start ballast from Sunlight Supply. I also run 4 T5's, 1 aquablue special, 2 blue pluses and a pro color. I'm wanting more pop in color from some of my corals, if I switch to 250w radiums what ballast would be the best to them on, I'm a little confused by all this. And would I switch my T5 bulbs to different T5 bulbs to get more pop? Did that make sense? Thanks.

Janna
Click to expand...

Janna, I am assuming you are using the Blue Wave I (M138)? If so this will run the Radiums just fineâ€"not quite as bright and maybe a tad more blue than the HQI/M80, but the bulbs are pulse start, so they will work. If you really want the true "Radium" look (a little more white with a somewhat "actinic-ish" like effect) the M80, or HQI, ballast is what you want. But it may not be worth it for you to upgrade. I'd buy the Radiums bulbs first and see how you like it on the M138's. Also, depending on how blue they are, I think you might want to lose the Blue+ T5's and go with like 2 x actinics (420 nm) and 2 x Pro Colors, or 2 x Fiji Purples (I like the Fijis). All these T5's offer part of the spectrum that the Radium lacks, so it's win-win.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Todd,
If I decide to switch ballasts, who has the M80 or HQI at the best price? What is the difference between the M80 and HQI? Thanks so much for your help!

Janna
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Is it aiptasia or maybe hydroids?
Replies
3
Views
134
griss
griss
F
Starting tank again
Replies
6
Views
166
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
M
How everything change and keeps changing
Replies
10
Views
180
MCReef1420
M
K
Help: SPS peeling strangely.
Replies
5
Views
203
griss
griss
DjPhato
Best species for refugium
Replies
3
Views
140
griss
griss
Back
Top