Significant algae growth and bleached corals????

jlinzmaier

Premium Member
I'm hoping somebody here has some ideas about what's going on.

I've been a reefkeeper for over 8 years now and I've learned a lot along the way but this situation has me baffled.

I currently have a 420 gallon display tank. It is plummed down to the basement where there is a 150 gallon sump, three 25 gallon frag tanks and a 55 gallon refugium.

I keep my salinity extremely stable at a SG of 1.026. My alk and ca are always rock solid at 7.5 dkh and 450. My mag level was always at 1250 but when I started to see so much algea I was questioning if it was maybe bryopsis so I raised my mag level to 1600. It didn't look like bryopsis and looked just like plain hair algea but I was dumbfounded by the fact that it was growing so fast and my snails and hermits weren't taking care of it.

The only supplements I dosed were kalk, zeovit amino acids, and zeovit coral vitalizer. The tank was rocking and I had better coral growth and polyp extension than I had ever had. I dosed kalk using a BRS pump and the zeovit supplements were being dosed at half of the bottles recommended dose.

Up until recently I had been dosing vodka at a rate of 7ml per day. That prevented any significant algea growth and was at a point where my chaeto was appearing to be slightly nutrient depleted but still growing. It was a really nice balance. The corals had nice deep coloration and the sps polyps and tissue looked healthy and vibrant. My nitrate levels were always zero and po4 was always about 0.05 (using a photometer)

In the beginning of May it all started to go downhill. At the start of May I had a relatively light bioload. Large show size blue hippo tang, purple tang, a few other gobies, a flame angel, and a CBB. One day my blue hippo tang decided to jump out of the tank and I hadn't noticed until the next day. When the large tang jumped out, that pretty much cut my bioload in half (or maybe more). I completely overlooked the fact that I'd need to cut down on my vodka dosing to compensate for the decreased feeding and overall bioload.

After a week or two I started to notice the sps corals which have polyps out during the day no longer had them out, the tissue of the sps corals seemed to thin out significantly, some of the LPS bleached out, and my chaeto turned lime green and completely stopped growing (it actually started to die off for a a day or two so I removed the dying portions. It was at that point it dawned on me that I needed to cut my vodka dosing so I stopped it completely. I did continue dosing the amino acids and coral vitalizer thinking that those nutrients would help the corals recover from such a low nutrient system. At the same time I noticed the corals beginning to bleach I also started to see some significant hair algea growing. It was also quite odd that even when the corals were bleaching and chaeto not growing the hair algea started to grow so significantly. After a couple weeks of having stopped dosing vodka dosing my corals continued to look bleached and continued to look more and more irritated, all while the algea like crazy.

I thought it was time now to stop dosing everything and start from scratch. I added a couple hundered astrea snails, an urchin and some hermit crabs. I sucked out as much algea as I could and actually added a wavebox that I had lying around to ensure detritus wasn't settling and allowing the algea to grow. The entire time the hair algae was brown and appearing unhealthy. Some of it siphoned off the rocks easily but the majority was held fast to the rocks. I also did some very large water changes trying to limit nutrients for algea growth. During these several weeks the hair algea continued to grow like crazy, the film algea stopped growing on the glass, and the chaeto looked like it was just hanging onto life in a lime green color and no strength to it's structure (almost like spaghetti).

I then began dosing AA's again because my corals continued to look so bleached and unhappy. After a couple more weeks of dosing the AA's and not seeing a positive response from the corals I decided to stop the dosing. It wasn't helping the corals but could be contributing the algea growth - I guess.

Now I'm back to square one again. The CUC isn't taking care of the hair algea, more algea started growing in my frag tanks, and the corals are still bleached but appear to be stabalized. They aren't getting any worse but aren't getting any better.

In an attempt to provide some nutrients to my bleaching corals I stated feeding heavier. Never anymore than my fish would eat, but I started feeding 4-5 times a day instead of 1-2 times a day. I thought by increasing the feeding of my fish I would provide more nutrition to the corals from the detritus they excrete (and this would be more similar to the bioload of the tank prior to the hippo jumping out). I had been feeding heavy ever since and the corals continue to look bleached and the hair algae continues to grow.

In an attempt to combat the algae I thought I'd focus on a nutrient which isn't a necessity for coral growth but is certainly a necessity for algea - phosphate. I started to run a phosban reactor with about a cup of GFO. In two days my po4 dropped from 0.05 down to 0.01 and of course I caused more harm that good. At day two of running some GFO I had two SPS RTN and had others develop some STN. Stopped running GFO immediately but here I am now with bleached corals and a mess of algae. I have no idea where to go from here.

Here are some pics to show the algae growth and bleached corals.

Sympodium - Not supposed to look like this:)
p7020001r.jpg


On the left is a garf bonsai that is extremely light in color, the middle is a 6 inch myagi tort which 4 months ago had beautiful blue color with a green base. On the right and towards the back is a gemmifera that was generally unaffected by the whole ordeal.

p7020011.jpg




Here is a green hairy rhodactis which is rediculously bleached out appearing starved and you can see all the algae growing around it :headwally:

p7020008.jpg



Here are some pics of algea in various spots in the tank.

p7020006.jpg


p7020017.jpg





Here is what my chaeto looks like.

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p7020013.jpg



Here's a pic of algae growing all over my zoanthid frags which have been almost entirely closed up from the start of all this mess. In this pic the zoanthids are opened as much as they ever have been since the start of it all.

p7020020.jpg



Aside from the large blue hippo jumping out and seriously affecting the bioload there is nothing that has changed in my tank. It was a gorgeous tank with corals growing fast and looking awesome. Now I'm embarrased to have anyone over because they'll be looking at 420 gallons of **it.

At this point I'm going to order about 300 more astrea snails because they seem to be the only snail that will eat this algae. I had all my mex turbos and mitherax crabs die off seemingly starved in a tank full of algae which they wouldn't eat. Hopefully the detritus from the astrea snails will provide some dissolved nutrients to the system which will hopefully help the bleached corals.

Hope somebody has some ideas. I'm at a loss.

Jeremy
 
Have you changed your rodi filters just wondering?

Excellent question. Forgot to mention that. It had been a while since I changed my RO/DI cartridges. I used the inline meters to give me an idea of when they need to be changed and it had been quite a while since they had given a reading above 0. I took another reading with my com-100 tds meter and found it to be 8.6. I've since swapped out all cartidges and my water purified water now has a reading of 0.4 from the com-100. The first round of clean water is being made today so maybe a few water changes with cleaner water will make a difference.

Jeremy
 
i think you have found the problem with ro/di. I have 2 tds meters on my 4 stage and if I see 1tds coming out I change filters.
 
You should read the giant peroxide thread I just kicked up in the nanos forum, we have cures in tanks like yours, its really worth your time for sure, see the before and after pics

Since you have chaeto there are two options-remove it, follow the submerged spot treatments well covered for large tanks, reinstall after algae is gone

The frag plugs of zos are simple easy, external spot treatments, clean in two days. Zos are never harmed by it. Sps as well. We cover extensively in the thread why you have algae in spite of your efforts

This entire bleaching and dosing process never had to happen, there are better ways of algae control and its in there with tons of proof, all details are covered. You will kick yourself when you see how easy it would have been to submerge spot inject the first little patch before it overtook everything

Not knowing this method its devastating to those who don't get a lucky algae free tank following all the rules supposed to work universally

po4 stripping is legitimate and one of many ways to an end. Its currently sold as the only way, thread proves its not.

B

Run the 50 50 dip described for zo plugs, algae free in two days, regrowth almost never occurs for several months when truly initially cleaned, even if you do not change nutrients in your tank


Nutrient stripping/po4 management is not required for algae control, it is optional and commonly devastating like you have mentioned unless you get lucky. Its all pictured in the thread, we don't measure phosphates to have pristine tanks
 
i think you have found the problem with ro/di. I have 2 tds meters on my 4 stage and if I see 1tds coming out I change filters.

I'm a bit suspicious as well. Unfortunately all four of my inline meters had been reading zero so I didn't pick up on it right away. When the com-100 read 8 I couldn't believe it. Now my inline meters are nothing more than nice quick disconnect fittings:) From now on I'll check the output from the membrane and each of the two DI resins once a week with my com-100.

I've really thought this through for a long time and until I came across this RO/Di issue I was at a loss.

Jeremy
 
You should read the giant peroxide thread I just kicked up in the nanos forum, we have cures in tanks like yours, its really worth your time for sure, see the before and after pics

Since you have chaeto there are two options-remove it, follow the submerged spot treatments well covered for large tanks, reinstall after algae is gone

The frag plugs of zos are simple easy, external spot treatments, clean in two days. Zos are never harmed by it. Sps as well. We cover extensively in the thread why you have algae in spite of your efforts

This entire bleaching and dosing process never had to happen, there are better ways of algae control and its in there with tons of proof, all details are covered. You will kick yourself when you see how easy it would have been to submerge spot inject the first little patch before it overtook everything

Not knowing this method its devastating to those who don't get a lucky algae free tank following all the rules supposed to work universally

po4 stripping is legitimate and one of many ways to an end. Its currently sold as the only way, thread proves its not.

B

Run the 50 50 dip described for zo plugs, algae free in two days, regrowth almost never occurs for several months when truly initially cleaned, even if you do not change nutrients in your tank


Nutrient stripping/po4 management is not required for algae control, it is optional and commonly devastating like you have mentioned unless you get lucky. Its all pictured in the thread, we don't measure phosphates to have pristine tanks

I briefly read through the first few pages and I can't lie. I'm a bit skeptical.

Using snails opposed to H2O2???? Since you know more about H2O2 treatments, explain to me why H2O2 would be better. Keep in mind that my tank is 420 gallons and nearly all the rock has algae growing on it. The frag plugs - no problem. The entire tank - wow.

What happens to the algea when the H2O2 kills it. Obviously it decomposes which could likely be similar to what happens when a snail eats it and excretes waste - yeah?? Snails vs H2O2 - lets hear it:)

Thanks for your reply!


Jeremy
 
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Nope, by all means continue on current path. The first few pages apparently aren't enough to answer the questions, so skip the rest which do address them and remain skeptical...ive put too much work to retype it all again. Submerged spot treatment is well defined and covers how you treat the tank. There are links a plenty to other forums using it on large tanks if you want to read it.

Its highly possible that putting in a hundred more scavengers might work, really it might.

Never put anything into your tank you doubt, sounds like this isn't the treatment for you man

B
 
I did read further.

Since I have two cleaner shrimp, and can only remove about 4 small pieces of the 400 lbs of rock I have, I guess H2O2 is out of the question except for dips with the frags. The rock in my display is all fastened in place and isn't removable. Is it safe only for zoa frags or do other softie, LPS, and SPS frags tolerate it OK??

Jeremy
 
To answer your last comparison, they are in no way connected. Snail poop is algae plus detritus plus cellular metabolic waste combined plus additional bioload that fuels algae, its biologically 'heavier' than just oxidized algae. using snails is obviously well known to maybe work in spite of this. If they worked all the time, that would mean we have no more nuisance threads because everyone knows to use them

I like to collect after pics regardless of method chosen, its about whatever works to cure a tank not just peroxide. After analysis on a per case basis, usually due to unusual inhabitants, there are some tanks we don't use peroxide in any way internally

From what you posted so far, that criteria hadn't been met. Just offering a method that has quite a bit of testimonial and picture support that's all.

The cleaner shrimp have been managed in other tanks by sheer dilution and spacing out the treatments, Napoli had them but chose not to dose heavily enough to risk them he just got all new rock. The main benefit to you is offering brainstorm material, curing what you can easily and managing risk with the rest, or at least leaving less for snails
 
My first thought was RO/DI TDS. My second thought was light bulb age.

Brandon, you pimp your cure in every algae thread, which is fine, but getting snarky when people don't immediately jump on your bandwagon drives people away from even bothering to try it...just throwing that out there.
 
I disagree, the response was snarky. I'm pimping before and after pics and an alternative to wiping out the rest of the sps.

Jeremy, chemists and reef sages hate the method because there is no research to back it up. We bicker about this endlessly in the chem forum commonly

We are rolling on anecdotal collection purely. the thread is about assembling methods that show some statistically significant repeatability even though no one can explain it. This occurred many times in reefkeeping, say for example the first person to use their liquor cabinet contents in the delicate reef tank lol

I have no examples on several peroxide threads of zos, lps and sps showing adverse physicality after a custom approach. In fact they tolerate some wild treatments id never personally run and I heartily endorse the stuff.

your water tds surely could be a factor, but there are so many examples of tanks that look just like this without that source problem I recommend you remove algae when you see it, if your tds is the issue the algae shouldn't come back
 
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To answer your last comparison, they are in no way connected. Snail poop is algae plus detritus plus cellular metabolic waste combined plus additional bioload that fuels algae, its biologically 'heavier' than just oxidized algae. using snails is obviously well known to maybe work in spite of this. If they worked all the time, that would mean we have no more nuisance threads because everyone knows to use them

I like to collect after pics regardless of method chosen, its about whatever works to cure a tank not just peroxide. After analysis on a per case basis, usually due to unusual inhabitants, there are some tanks we don't use peroxide in any way internally

From what you posted so far, that criteria hadn't been met. Just offering a method that has quite a bit of testimonial and picture support that's all.

The cleaner shrimp have been managed in other tanks by sheer dilution and spacing out the treatments, Napoli had them but chose not to dose heavily enough to risk them he just got all new rock. The main benefit to you is offering brainstorm material, curing what you can easily and managing risk with the rest, or at least leaving less for snails


Those are excellent points and I do appreciate your input. After you posted this I realized it's not comparing apples to apples. Completely different science and logic behind each method of algae management.


After this comment:
Nope, by all means continue on current path. The first few pages apparently aren't enough to answer the questions, so skip the rest which do address them and remain skeptical...ive put too much work to retype it all again.

I realized how ignorant I was being.

I answer all kinds of questions every day that get asked over and over again and I often tell people to "just read what's already been written!!!" After I thought about your comment for a while I began to see the intent behind what could initially be construed as a smart A** comment or snobby response. I now get your point. I did read the thread a bit further and plan to read it in it's entirety tomorrow. I was being lazy and not taking the time to read the thread - I'll admit that fully.


My first thought was RO/DI TDS. My second thought was light bulb age.

TDS is now 0.4 based on the com-100 reading. Hopefully I'll start to see some positive results. If the source water is the problem that's easy to fix.

I actually run all LED's over all my tanks. The fuxtures are about 6 months old and they are a 1:1 ration of 460nM blues and 10K whites. Bulb age or light in general shouldn't be a problem. These lights were over my tanks for several months before these issues arose.

I really appreciate everyones input. Thank you all!!

Jeremy
 
OK. Need some suggestions here.

I'm not too worried about the algae but I'm very concerned about my corals. They are bleached and don't appear to be getting worse but they've looked bleached and ill for at least several weeks now and aren't showing any sign of recovering.

The bleaching isn't from my lighting. Before this entire event all of my corals were thriving, growing fast and looking awesome.

It seems logical that, when my large blue hippo tang jumped out, the bioload of my system was tremendously reduced (the blue hippo was close to half of the entire fish bioload in my tank). I didn't reduce my vodka dosing right away and a couple weeks later the corals appeared to be bleaching. That's when it dawned on me that I needed to reduce the vodka dosing but the damage had already been done.

In an attempt to provide more available nutrients to the corals I continued to dose amino acids and feed my fish heavier. The dosing of AA's seemed to make the problem worse for some reason so I stopped dosing.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to help my corals recover??

Thanks.

Jeremy
 
What we ended up doing was 2 large water changes (40%) after we pulled the pellet reactor. My boyfriend made the mistake of putting a bunch of carbon in the reactor, which cleared the water so much that the light bleached the corals, so I don't recommend that LOL but you could run a little carbon. After the 2 big water changes we did 2 more regular water changes 2 weeks in a row (instead of every other week) and after that it just took time & moving what frags we could into better flow until they started opening again. I don't know what else to tell you.
 
Here's another thought.

The RODI filter malfunction/aging most certainly was the main culprit. IMO. But losing the large blue hippo may also have contributed. Tangs are excellent algae eaters. No algae can grow in my tank because of them, and that leaves all the stuff available for my refugium. You may want o start looking at another tang to QT then introduce to your system. Are there any other herbivore/algae eaters in your tank?
 
Thank you all for the thoughts.

I really do want to get several more tangs but fish funds have been low lately. I agree very much that the tang likely kept the display tank algae bay.

The RO/DI is back on track and will be watched much more carefully.

Losing the tang in conjuctunction with impure water coming from the RO/DI and a couple weeks of too much vodka dosing just screwed up everything. I was under the impression that algae wouldn't outcompete corals for nutrients but that was just my assumption without any proof to confirm it. I was always under the assumption that if there is nuisance algea growing then there is excess N and P. In reverse I also assumed that if my corals were bleaching and my chaeto stops growing then the tank is being stripped of nutrients too significantly. That makes my situation very perplexing because I have corals showing signs of (what I would consider) aggressive nutrient export (similar to what is seen so often in an SPS tank that has coral bleaching from aggressive use of GFO). At the same time I have a large amount of algae growing in the display which is conflicting with the theory that the nutrient stripping is too aggressive. The only way both of those theories could be possible is if the algae is outcompeting the corals for available nutrients. Sound logical??

In the next couple weeks I'll get a few more tangs that I've been wanting to add and we'll see what happens. In the meantime I'll baby the corals and provide as much TLC as I can.

Jeremy
 
And what about increasing the feeding and export/water changes for a while I've read lots of times that helped to reduce bleaching events if they had the chemical cause adjusted? Its just my guess that amino acids alone might not work as well as some nice roti feast + oyster eggs + whichever feed you like best and a month of hard work with water changes and skimming-like CPR on a patient in respiratory distress! Get em man I bet you can turn it around
 
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