Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
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melev
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12179218#post12179218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Guys I have updated my website to reflect this design in the project section
http://beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
To those with questions:
please post them here, not in a PM. If you ask here, the answer to your question will help other people who may have the same question
You should edit your "title" code in the webpage. It says BanAnimal's Bar and Grill at the top.
Looks like too much reading for me.
robertifly
Premium Member
Bean, I am going ahead with the new tank build and intending to use the very narrow 1.5" coast to coast calfo box in tank and then larger outside box on the back of tank for the drain pipe connections per your design.
Do you think the ball valves work as well as gate valves for the drain adjustments?
I now go over the back with the return plumbing and would love to not have that piping on the top of and around the rim of the tank, but I'm also nervous about drilling a lot of holes in the tank for returns or closed loops(especially closed loops and where to drill for good circulation, that 's so permanent) any good advice or illustrations?
One other thing, sorry for so much but I'm scared to death about how well my tank inhabitants are going to survive while this change over is happening. I have a 55gal to setup in during the change over but if will be really full with the rock and sand from the 90 gal. BTW, how about the sand from the VERY DEEP SAND BED that I have should I be worried about toxic gas for the lower anaerobic layers when I take the sand out causing problems being turned over and remixed?
Sorry if I'm to off topic but I'm doing this starting this week end pending delivery of tank and I do have to have the old tank ready for exchange, it is a replacement.
Do you think the ball valves work as well as gate valves for the drain adjustments?
I now go over the back with the return plumbing and would love to not have that piping on the top of and around the rim of the tank, but I'm also nervous about drilling a lot of holes in the tank for returns or closed loops(especially closed loops and where to drill for good circulation, that 's so permanent) any good advice or illustrations?
One other thing, sorry for so much but I'm scared to death about how well my tank inhabitants are going to survive while this change over is happening. I have a 55gal to setup in during the change over but if will be really full with the rock and sand from the 90 gal. BTW, how about the sand from the VERY DEEP SAND BED that I have should I be worried about toxic gas for the lower anaerobic layers when I take the sand out causing problems being turned over and remixed?
Sorry if I'm to off topic but I'm doing this starting this week end pending delivery of tank and I do have to have the old tank ready for exchange, it is a replacement.
MeuserReef
Welcome to the next level
I too am curious about this. The ball valves that I have used in the past (Lowe's Hardware) tend to get a bit tough to fine tune over time.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thanks guys...
Melev, you can just skip to the pictures
Yes it was a typo... it is fixed.
Robert:
Gate valves should work for tuning. They are just a pain to fully open and close.
Closed loop ports... place them (at least the intakes) under the calfo box. You can then hide them with the rock. You can also put the returns through the back of the tank and hide them with the rock work. The return pump should go over the top for anti-siphon reasons.
As for the number of holes that you can safely drill, I don't have an answer to that. I have seen tanks with a LOT of holes in them though.
I don't have a good answer for the changeover. Most people feel that using new sand is a must. Scooping the old sand out will release a lot nasty stuff and damage a lot of the life in it.
Melev, you can just skip to the pictures
Yes it was a typo... it is fixed.
Robert:
Gate valves should work for tuning. They are just a pain to fully open and close.
Closed loop ports... place them (at least the intakes) under the calfo box. You can then hide them with the rock. You can also put the returns through the back of the tank and hide them with the rock work. The return pump should go over the top for anti-siphon reasons.
As for the number of holes that you can safely drill, I don't have an answer to that. I have seen tanks with a LOT of holes in them though.
I don't have a good answer for the changeover. Most people feel that using new sand is a must. Scooping the old sand out will release a lot nasty stuff and damage a lot of the life in it.
melev
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12180631#post12180631 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Thanks guys...
Melev, you can just skip to the pictures
That's the problem. I've looked at those pictures several times, and still don't get it. You've put me in an impossible predicament, in that I'm going to have to read all of that to understand it.
Maybe you could reedit the page and just put in bold a few key sentences for me.
:lol:
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
The readers digest version for melev
Siphons are silent but hard to keep balanced. Anything more than moderate flow in a typical stockman or durso standpipe is noisy.
The idea is to setup a siphon that does not handle all of the flow from the return pump. The second standpipe simply accepts that flow. The two work hand in hand to self adjust over a wide range. The outcome is silent and pretty much airless setup that is self tuning and safe.
The first standpipe is sealed and does not allow air in, that creates the siphon. The rate of the siphon is controlled by a ball valve.
The second standpipe is similar to a durso or stockman. It allows air in. It is quiet because of the very low flow.
The 3rd standpipe is for safety.
Both the second and third standpipe have features that allow them, to become siphons in the case of a backup in the overflow box.
Siphons are silent but hard to keep balanced. Anything more than moderate flow in a typical stockman or durso standpipe is noisy.
The idea is to setup a siphon that does not handle all of the flow from the return pump. The second standpipe simply accepts that flow. The two work hand in hand to self adjust over a wide range. The outcome is silent and pretty much airless setup that is self tuning and safe.
The first standpipe is sealed and does not allow air in, that creates the siphon. The rate of the siphon is controlled by a ball valve.
The second standpipe is similar to a durso or stockman. It allows air in. It is quiet because of the very low flow.
The 3rd standpipe is for safety.
Both the second and third standpipe have features that allow them, to become siphons in the case of a backup in the overflow box.
Siffy
New member
Nah, an overflow box is still needed to keep the tank level constant. This design is all about making the plumbing silent by trying to avoid any water & air mixture which is the cause to most plumbing noise.
Having a full siphon prevents air pockets that would usually allow water to accelerate and "crash" into the water below.
And having a barely used, low flow durso prevents the gurgling and sucking noise from a lot of air being pulled through a small hole.
Twisty,
Nice plumbing there. I see one thing that could cause catastrophic failure- NO plumbing support. All that plumbing hanging by a bulkhead has the leverage of a crowbar. If you simply bump it, it'll blow the back out of the tank.
Please dont take offense, I see this all the time and am just trying to help avoid a failure.
I like these clamps a lot for strut:
These 2 hole clamps are cheap but effective if you have something solid to mount against. Found in the electrical aisle.:
Nice plumbing there. I see one thing that could cause catastrophic failure- NO plumbing support. All that plumbing hanging by a bulkhead has the leverage of a crowbar. If you simply bump it, it'll blow the back out of the tank.
Please dont take offense, I see this all the time and am just trying to help avoid a failure.
I like these clamps a lot for strut:
These 2 hole clamps are cheap but effective if you have something solid to mount against. Found in the electrical aisle.:
woooooow , what a very informative,fascinating,and funny thread. Just wanna say thanks to bean for the awesome info and for dealing with everyones negative responses on some issues.It all comes down to one thing............. ( We are all here to gain greater knowledge and a higher insight of the complexed subjects for the best preservation methods and techniques of keeping saltwater aquariums ) and each and every persons insight and ideas on any subject should be appreiciated and not ridiculed by FELLOW reefers. PERIOD .......:thumbsup:
Well said Tony!
Tswifty8
Sorry for the mispelling of your name, I had copied it but lost it.
Just so you all know, this setup works for those loong runs and drops to the basement as well. Just have to dial it in.
You do have to keep your sump level fairly consistent with a topoff device. If the sump gets too low, it creates more head on the pump, slowing the flow just slightly, and you could get slurping from the siphon. (I do on mine anyway)
Bean, I was going to ask you how you liked the Snapper and if it was quiet. Thanks for the update
Tswifty8
Sorry for the mispelling of your name, I had copied it but lost it.
Just so you all know, this setup works for those loong runs and drops to the basement as well. Just have to dial it in.
You do have to keep your sump level fairly consistent with a topoff device. If the sump gets too low, it creates more head on the pump, slowing the flow just slightly, and you could get slurping from the siphon. (I do on mine anyway)
Bean, I was going to ask you how you liked the Snapper and if it was quiet. Thanks for the update
woooooow , what a very informative,fascinating,and funny thread. Just wanna say thanks to bean for the awesome info and for dealing with everyones negative responses on some issues.It all comes down to one thing............. ( We are all here to gain greater knowledge and a higher insight of the complexed subjects for the best preservation methods and techniques of keeping saltwater aquariums ) and each and every persons insight and ideas on any subject should be appreiciated and not ridiculed by FELLOW reefers. PERIOD .......:thumbsup:
Tswifty
New member
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I would consider the snapper quiet, but nowhere near silent. It is certainly quiet for the amount of flow it generates and the hum is at a pitch that does not carry through the house like some other pumps.
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