Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[BeanAnimal]

I don't think it matters much. The bulkheads should not support the plumbing, it should be supported by other mechanical means. I have both the cheap bulkheads, and the expensive hayward bulkeads on my system. I would say that for 1" and 1.25" the standard black cheapies are fine and most popular. For larger sizes I would go with the Hayward or similar from aquatic eco. As for the sch. 80 stuff in the 1.25" and smaller... I dunno that it is worth the trouble, but it will not likely hurt.

 

[Mental1]

Another quick question. I have 1 inch bhs and you cannot get a sanitary T for a 1 inch pipe. Would you use adaptors or go with a regular T?

 

[BeanAnimal]

I adapted the 1" BHs to 1.25" or 1.5" San-Tees with a bushing

 

[Mental1]

Can you explain what the sanitary T does versus a regular t?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Just a bit smoother transition from horizontal to vertical. In theory it will allow more flow in the siphon and less noise in the open channel. In practice... who knows.

 

[Mental1]

hhmmm ... maybe I will try with a regular T and see what happens ... then no bushing needed. I will report results ...

 

[Scott M]

Hey BeanAnimal,

Thanks for what you're doing here, it's a great design. Can you email me your sketchup files for your overflow design please? Your inbox is fll so PM me for my email address please. I would like to incrporate it into my drawings for the 120 build I am doing. My wife can't visualize anything so I have to draw it all for her before I can get approval for the design.

T/Y
Scott

 

[Mental1]

One last quick question ... promise ... what role does the cap play on the siphon tube?

 

[Mental1]

So -- could I use two elbows instead of a T or sanitary T?

 

[2_zoa]

the caps are there on all three to facilitate cleaning if at all necessary.

 

[BeanAnimal]

But yes, you could use elbows on two of the standpipes if you really wanted to.

 

[AB-Bug]

good luck

 

[MeuserReef]

Bean, I'm finalizing the plumbing on my new system and have hit a crossroads with regards to setting up the triple overflow. What negatives can I expect if I plumbed directly off of the bulkheads and ran roughly ~8" horizontally through the wall behind the tank and then into the "T"? The plumbing would then go straight down for a foot or so and then 45° back through the wall and then into the sump (possibly using flex PVC).

The reason that I ask is because the wife says that she much prefers the look of the tank "snug" against the wall, not 6" away from it as I had planned (I admit that I kind of do too!). I have a laundry room on the other side of the wall behind the tank and have enough drywall skills to repair any holes made when we sell the house, but I dont want to move forward with this idea if the siphon will not work or will otherwise be overly-complicated by the horizontal run BEFORE the "T".

The more I think about this design, the more that I like it as it would really make water changes easy by having the ability to drain water directly from the overflow into the washing machine drain, as well as allow newly mixed saltwater to be added directly to the sump. This would meet the "no-buckets" requirement that was established long ago when this build was still just an idea.

I value your opinions on this.
Thanks

 

[BeanAnimal]

The siphon will be harder to start with a horizontal run that long. The open channel will need to be higher to force the siphon to start quicker. In theory the open channel should work fine. Adjustment may be kind of awkward with the tank on the other side of the wall though

 

[MeuserReef]

Very good point about the adjustments! Im going to have do do some thinking about this. One other advantage that having the pipes run through the wall would be that the wall would support the weight of the plumbing, not the bulkheads.

Heres another idea I had that might make the siphon easier to start. What if I plumbed a 45° fitting directly to the back of the bulkhead, then went through the wall, then used another pair of 45° fittings to turn back through the wall and into the sump. This wont eliminate the adjustment challenges, but would remove the horizontal section of pipe. The open channel and the emergency could both stay horizontal.

Is there any disadvantage to putting the adjustment valve on the siphon tube just before it enters the sump? If not, then the adjustment difficulty could be eliminated by this configuration.

BTW, Due to space issues, I have been forced to "dedicate" each tube to only one function. (ie, my siphon tube will always be the siphon)

My apologies if I am asking questions that you have already answered previously in this thread.
Thanks again Bean.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I was going to suggest the slanted pipe instead of horizontal. It may help. Yes the valve can go at the end of the siphon standpipe as it enters the sump.

 

[MeuserReef]

E X C E L L E N T






Thanks again Bean. I think I have my plan together now.

 

[shelburn61]

Bean,

Do you feed your 6' skimmer from the overflow? I'm trying to picture how to do this?

This design is great to silence the plumbing to my basement sump, but I am having trouble figuring out how to feed my skimmer directly from the overflow. It seems that purging air from the siphon line would be problematic if run directly to the skimmer? (I turn off the return pump twice per day for feeding.)

My DIY skimmer is feed is almost exactly like yours. Suggestions?

 

[jeffrey_ropp]

55G Acrylic Design Considerations

55G Acrylic Design Considerations

Bean,

Thanks for a terrific design and an even greater contribution by supporting all of us trying to implement it.

I'd like to use your design on a 55g acrylic tank. As you've mentioned in the thread, you suggest an external overflow given the lighting and space considerations. A few questions:

1) In such a configuration, we would cut a slot for the weir into the back of the tank. What's a "safe" height, structurally and flow-wise, from the top of the tank (mine has a top as well)?

2) Should it be the full length of the tank (the whole point of maximizing surface)? How far from the sides should be considered "safe"?

3) as for the slot itself, how tall should it be? I figure this is flow rate dependent but also should be minimized for critters, etc.

4) I have 2 pre-existing holes drilled (3/4" return and 1 1/2" drain). Neither seem to be at appropriate levels. Should I simply cap them? Any thoughts on aesthetics?

5) To minimize the width of the overflow, would it make sense to align the elbows parallel to the length of the tank and plumb them thru the bottom of the overflow?

6) Is it worth it to have an acrylic specialist do the work or could this be DIY if I've never worked with the materials (drilling nor weld-on)?

Sorry for the long list.

I greatly appreciate your thoughts!
Jeff (the Map Guy)

 

[BeanAnimal]

Shelburn. My skimmer is fed from the overflow box via a MaxiJet. The flow from the siphon standpipe is far too much for the skimmer. Other people have teed off the siphon standpipe with a valve to regulate the siphon feed with success. You could try doing the same thing.