Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

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Scott... my box is full because I can't keep up with the PMs. I end up answering the same questionbs 20 times a week and would much rather them be posted here for the benefit of others and my sanity :)

I am not using scketchup, the drawings are autocad objects. I would gladly send them along if I can find them. The truth is I have no idea where the files are (I have drives laying on shelfs all over my office and work area...)

The basic fittings came from charlotte pipe. What I could not find in their drawings, I built from slicing up their objects using autocads union/intersection/etc 3D tools.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13676275#post13676275 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Wow... GlassReef... I am not sure what to say but nice work!
Click to expand...

Wow, praise from Ceasar!! And I agree!

Is your whole back wall a weir or do you have a box inside the tank as well (similiar to the design I used on my tank)?
 
Great! Thanks guys. I drilled four holes in the back of mine....my setup is currently being logged in the Okinawa Saltwqater gang forum here in RC called starting a log ~ my 275+ gal baby...
Anyways, I am glad I did because the 4th hole now gravitiy feeds my Reeflo 250...(if Tim Allen could see me now). I am having truoble getting the syphon to start and It just became obivous, even thru many a nights reading, that its probably my pipe to low in the sump. y question is: This works great for noise; if I bring the pipe out of the water in the sump, won't that start makingnoise again, or do Ihave to find the happy medium were my pipe starts OUT out of the water and then in turn sunmerges itself again? Or actually, the sump isFULL of water, so I would have to cut the pipe short to initiate itsef under all the collected/backsyphoned water but long enough for it to remained submerged on the water leveles balance out again? Darn, feel like a newbie everyday. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13694221#post13694221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Scott... my box is full because I can't keep up with the PMs. I end up answering the same questionbs 20 times a week and would much rather them be posted here for the benefit of others and my sanity :)
Click to expand...

Roger that! I can't imagine how many people PM you daily.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13694221#post13694221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I am not using scketchup, the drawings are autocad objects. I would gladly send them along if I can find them. The truth is I have no idea where the files are (I have drives laying on shelfs all over my office and work area...)

The basic fittings came from charlotte pipe. What I could not find in their drawings, I built from slicing up their objects using autocads union/intersection/etc 3D tools.
Click to expand...
I have AutoCAD 3d here at the house so if you find them my email is in my profile and I can convert them to SketchUp, thanks!
 
Scott, I will certainly try to find them. I lost a few thousand lines of code for the lighting controller I am building... it was compiled and working too!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13695116#post13695116 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sango-chu
Great! Thanks guys. I drilled four holes in the back of mine....my setup is currently being logged in the Okinawa Saltwqater gang forum here in RC called starting a log ~ my 275+ gal baby...
Anyways, I am glad I did because the 4th hole now gravitiy feeds my Reeflo 250...(if Tim Allen could see me now). I am having truoble getting the syphon to start and It just became obivous, even thru many a nights reading, that its probably my pipe to low in the sump. y question is: This works great for noise; if I bring the pipe out of the water in the sump, won't that start makingnoise again, or do Ihave to find the happy medium were my pipe starts OUT out of the water and then in turn sunmerges itself again? Or actually, the sump isFULL of water, so I would have to cut the pipe short to initiate itsef under all the collected/backsyphoned water but long enough for it to remained submerged on the water leveles balance out again? Darn, feel like a newbie everyday. :)
Click to expand...

How deep is the siphon pipe submerged during operation? How deep during initial startup?

Remember, as the return pump starts up, the water in the sump will drop. It is common and acceptable for the emergency overflow to kick in for a few seconds (5-10 maybe) during startup. The airline attached the the emergency overflow will cause it to form a siphon if the water gets high enough. By that time the air should purge from the siphon standpipe. You can always drill a small hole or two right above the operating level of the sump if you are worried that trapped air is preventing the siphon from forming quick enough.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13694325#post13694325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brackishdude
Wow, praise from Ceasar!! And I agree!

Is your whole back wall a weir or do you have a box inside the tank as well (similiar to the design I used on my tank)?
Click to expand...
Thanks to both Bean and yourself for the kind words.

The tank is 96" wide. The overfow box is centered on the back and 88" wide, 7" high, and 5 1/2" front to back. The weir extends the entire 88" with the exception of a 14" section in the middle, which serves to strengthen the back panel. This pic is not perfect, but maybe you can see it a little better:

Tank-Overflow.jpg
 
Glass... If you can put together some more photos, I will be updating my website with an overflow gallery pointing out some other users implementations of my design.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13703257#post13703257 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Alfalfameister
I wouldn't worry about it. I *think* having the open channel 1/2" higher just helps in the start-up of the full siphon. Once it gets going, both systems should be the same. So, maybe the only difference is after a power outage or something.

When running continuously, it should be the same...
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Yes, once the siphon starts, both systems operate the same. There is no drawback to raising the open channel weir 1/2" or so. It will certainly force the siphon to engage first but it is not a prerequisite for running this setup.
 
I am sure that this question has been asked. Can I run the main durso and the backup into a common drain? I was thinking of the two 1 1/2" connecting to a 2" before going to the sump. The reason is I like only having one sock. The emergency would have its own pipe. The run would short to the sump at the back of the stand
 
Great info!

I see the design on the first page is centered around a one inch bulkhead. What I did not notice is if anybody is utilizing a one inch elbow on the inside of the overflow and 1.5" plumbing parts on the outside to the sump.

So basically, if it would work I would use a one inch 90 deg elbow to 1" pvc to the 1" bulkhead. I would then connect 1" pvc on the outside of the bulkhead to a 1" to 1.5" pvc adapter and run 1.5" pvc to the sump.

Any thoughts on this?
 
Hello Bean,

Can you tell me if your design will work with 1/2" bulk heads and 1/2" piping and still be silent? I am trying to run a Quite one 4000HH for the return, so about 800 GPH after head height. If you think I should step up the plumbing to 1" then I will do so. It will be connected to an external overflow like GlassReef's tank so the plumbing (I think) will be straight, no bends or curves.

Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13720927#post13720927 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chetscc
Great info!

I see the design on the first page is centered around a one inch bulkhead. What I did not notice is if anybody is utilizing a one inch elbow on the inside of the overflow and 1.5" plumbing parts on the outside to the sump.

So basically, if it would work I would use a one inch 90 deg elbow to 1" pvc to the 1" bulkhead. I would then connect 1" pvc on the outside of the bulkhead to a 1" to 1.5" pvc adapter and run 1.5" pvc to the sump.

Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

You can use the 1" elbow inside if you like. I prefer the 1.25" x 1" street elbows simply because they have a larger intake area. That equates to less chance of the intake forming a vortex... thats all.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13727509#post13727509 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 2_zoa
Hello Bean,

Can you tell me if your design will work with 1/2" bulk heads and 1/2" piping and still be silent? I am trying to run a Quite one 4000HH for the return, so about 800 GPH after head height. If you think I should step up the plumbing to 1" then I will do so. It will be connected to an external overflow like GlassReef's tank so the plumbing (I think) will be straight, no bends or curves.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

It may work... the siphon certainly will. However, the open channel will not be able to handle much flow without gurgling. There is simply not much room in 1/2" pipe for air and water.
 
With any setup, the emergency and open channel pipes should be as large as you can accomodate. My guess, without testing, would be that a 1" open channel pipe would work much better for that flow.
 
Bean,

Where does each respective pipe terminate in the sump?

Here is what i have in mind.

Siphon pipe ---> Skimmer input
Open pipe ---> Refugium
Emergency ---> Refugium

Will this work in your system?

thanks

joey
 
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