Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter BeanAnimal
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BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I think I used 1/4"
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Not tempered... Actualy, you would have a hard time finding somebody to heat temper a piece that small anyway. Small pieces tend to break during the cooling process and are likely candidates for chemical tempering.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
It will work just fine with an external overflow. Plumb the standpipes through the bottom of the box, just like you would for a durso or stockman.
robertifly
Premium Member
Thank You
Thank You
Bean, Welcome Back! great thread and overflow plumbing, always enjoy your posts for the content and well thought out plans. I have some questions for my next tank:
1. I think I read where your bulkheads were 1" but you used 1.5" pipe, I thought the smallest diameter opening dictates the amount of flow possible? If so the 1.5" gives no more that 1" when through a 1" bulkhead correct? Why did you up the pipe size?
2. I now have 1.5" drain with elbow turned down and 1.5" emer.drain with elbow turned up, if I use the three 1" hole setup like you did is that more flow and more stable setup?
3. I have the coast to coast overflow now and like the skimming but for the 1.5" elbows I had to make the box 5"x5" which is kind of intrusive and creates sort of a dead zone underneath it, sure I can put things there that don't need as much light but then they are really hard to view, right now I just have a ph pointed there to keep it from being really dead zone so if I use the 1" pipes I'm thinking the box won't have to be as large, right?
4. Could I do four 1"pipes to advantage?
5. Did I understand you've now gone to BB tank and no sump eliminating the need for the overflows? If so are you still running a skimmer and how do you feed it? Do you like BB/sumpless better?
Thank You
Bean, Welcome Back! great thread and overflow plumbing, always enjoy your posts for the content and well thought out plans. I have some questions for my next tank:
1. I think I read where your bulkheads were 1" but you used 1.5" pipe, I thought the smallest diameter opening dictates the amount of flow possible? If so the 1.5" gives no more that 1" when through a 1" bulkhead correct? Why did you up the pipe size?
2. I now have 1.5" drain with elbow turned down and 1.5" emer.drain with elbow turned up, if I use the three 1" hole setup like you did is that more flow and more stable setup?
3. I have the coast to coast overflow now and like the skimming but for the 1.5" elbows I had to make the box 5"x5" which is kind of intrusive and creates sort of a dead zone underneath it, sure I can put things there that don't need as much light but then they are really hard to view, right now I just have a ph pointed there to keep it from being really dead zone so if I use the 1" pipes I'm thinking the box won't have to be as large, right?
4. Could I do four 1"pipes to advantage?
5. Did I understand you've now gone to BB tank and no sump eliminating the need for the overflows? If so are you still running a skimmer and how do you feed it? Do you like BB/sumpless better?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Thank you for the kind words
1. Larger pipe allows for less friction. Larger pipe allows for MORE air (in the open channel) and therefore more flow without noise or gurgling.
2. The 3rd standpipe will not increase the overall flow capacity. It will however allow you to tune the system for silent running while providing a failsafe mode of operation that the two standpipes alone can't achieve.
3. I trimmed the sockets on the elbows so that they would fit in a narrower box. The next tank will have an external overflow box.
4. Four 1" pipes would could work, but (2) would need to be open channel. Trying to balance two siphons can get tricky.
5. No I have not gone BB. I have an SSB and a ~75 sump. I have increased the sump flow (to increase system flow) because I can not increase the closed loop flow without draining and drilling. I removed a 140W 1200 GPH pump and replaced it with a 89W 2100 GPH pump. I am using 1/2 the power and moving twice the water. In an ideal setup I would be running a smaller return pump and a huge closed loop pump. The tank was not drilled that way and I am in no position (low SAF) to drain and drill. If I drain and drill, I will drian, upsize and then drill, and then look for a couch to sleep on.
1. Larger pipe allows for less friction. Larger pipe allows for MORE air (in the open channel) and therefore more flow without noise or gurgling.
2. The 3rd standpipe will not increase the overall flow capacity. It will however allow you to tune the system for silent running while providing a failsafe mode of operation that the two standpipes alone can't achieve.
3. I trimmed the sockets on the elbows so that they would fit in a narrower box. The next tank will have an external overflow box.
4. Four 1" pipes would could work, but (2) would need to be open channel. Trying to balance two siphons can get tricky.
5. No I have not gone BB. I have an SSB and a ~75 sump. I have increased the sump flow (to increase system flow) because I can not increase the closed loop flow without draining and drilling. I removed a 140W 1200 GPH pump and replaced it with a 89W 2100 GPH pump. I am using 1/2 the power and moving twice the water. In an ideal setup I would be running a smaller return pump and a huge closed loop pump. The tank was not drilled that way and I am in no position (low SAF) to drain and drill. If I drain and drill, I will drian, upsize and then drill, and then look for a couch to sleep on.
robertifly
Premium Member
I'm up for the larger pipes and three for me is a good number. I did some trim myself on the street elbows so I could get them in and out for whatever reason. I am interested in the box on the outside but am concerned about how to build it, seal it, and be able to sleep while worrying if something is breaking loose from the outside of the tank and flooding. I agree there is lots of appeal to hanging the box on the outside, please tell me how you would build it and attach it, also how to configure the pipes, I mean straight out the bottom or out the back? Out the bottom would make more sense since the box demands space behind the tank and out from the wall. If box on back would you cut the tank long horizontal cutouts one or two for the skimming effect or just round holes? Sorry for all the questions but I'll be getting new tank drilled within the next couple weeks. Also, so you would plan to drill for cl and reduce the flow in the sump/refuge area? I branch off the main drain now with a very low flow through the refuge.
nycsicktank
New member
BeanAnimal
when you said dead silence, did you mean putting your ears right next to the pipes?
when you said dead silence, did you mean putting your ears right next to the pipes?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Attaching the box to the outside of the tank is not a problem. If it is glass, use silicone, if it is acryluc use solvent (weld-on). I would feed the box by having the back panel trimmed to the proper height. This means building the tank or doing it yourself with a router (acrylic) or having a glass shop trim the back glass panel and ease the edges.
Yes, I would use lower flow and larger closed loops. My fuge is above the tank so no worried either way there.
Yes, I would use lower flow and larger closed loops. My fuge is above the tank so no worried either way there.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
With 1200 GPH, yes dead silent. With over 2000 GPH you can hear the slight trickle of water in the overflow box and the open channel standpipe. The needlewheel on the skimmer is MUCH louder though!
robertifly
Premium Member
Hey Bean, I am really thinking "outside the tank" for the overflow box now but am unclear on a couple points:
1. to cut down the back wall for the spill way. would the trim ring on that section of need to be cut away so the very top of glass section for the spill way can be cut down and across?
2. With tank on the outside of back how are the drain pipes set up, same as in the start of this thread or another way?
3. Would you do 1/2,3/4, or 1" cl bulkheads, all in the back, or some back and some bottom?
4. Ocean Motions no doubt I suppose, 4 or 8 outlet.
Thanks, if you can help me.
1. to cut down the back wall for the spill way. would the trim ring on that section of need to be cut away so the very top of glass section for the spill way can be cut down and across?
2. With tank on the outside of back how are the drain pipes set up, same as in the start of this thread or another way?
3. Would you do 1/2,3/4, or 1" cl bulkheads, all in the back, or some back and some bottom?
4. Ocean Motions no doubt I suppose, 4 or 8 outlet.
Thanks, if you can help me.
JCTewks
In Memoriam
You could also do an external standpipe with an internal coast to coast. Imagine, instead of having to cut a wier out of the back of your glass tank....drill 2 or 3 holes in the back glass where you would normally place bulkheads, silicone your box to the back of the tank with holes drilled in the bottom for your bulkheads and standpipes, then silicone a single piece of glass on the inside of the tank the full width angled so that it is touching the back glass at the bottom and 1 - 1 1/2" from the back at the top. the "wier" on the inside only has to be 4-5" tall and placed just so it covers the holes drilled into the back of the tank. water will still flow over the wier in a thin sheet for maximum surface skimming, yet take up minimal space inside of the tank.
I hope that description makes sense....maybe I will try and do a quick sketch of what I;m talking about. Or if someone else gets the idea and wants to draw it (hint, hint, bean
)
I hope that description makes sense....maybe I will try and do a quick sketch of what I;m talking about. Or if someone else gets the idea and wants to draw it (hint, hint, bean
)robertifly
Premium Member
Thanks Jeff, I understand exactly what you are talking about and Have heard of that method weir before altho I haven't seen it used on a tank. I thinking if I put a box on back why have anything but but hole(s) inside the tank. What about it Bean? Here is a pic of mine when first setting up, it works really pretty good but more than I like inside the tank.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/119493Copy_of_IMG_0095.JPG
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/119493Copy_of_IMG_0095.JPG
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
You lose the surface skimming if you go without the weir 
robertifly
Premium Member
Exactly the box on the inside skims, my questions above asked on the box to the outside and a cutout section of the wall for the water to fall/flow out into the outside box. That will skim, do you mean cut the tank top band through and then cut down into the glass horizonal for the water to skim out?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
You either need the back panel to be cutout to act as a weir or the slim internal weir feeding the external box via the drilled holes. The drilled holes alone are a no-go.
Did that answer or am I sitll missing something?
Did that answer or am I sitll missing something?
robertifly
Premium Member
That's what I thought, I'm trying to see a way for "nothing inside" the tank. To do that I will need to cut la ong horizonal slit in the back maybe 3/8" tall for the water to exit the display tank and into the box on the outside back of tank. Will this work? I'm thinking just at the bottom or below the trim ring to keep the trim in tack and maintain the integrity(strenght) of the tank, or would you just make it simple and cut down through the trim and glass?
If cutting the silt, any idea for the correct tool to make that cut? Or if cutting down through everything including the trim ring what tool for that large a removal of material? I've read where people use diamond points in Dremel type tools, yes some other? Sorry for all the questions, one more, the drains on the outside box if I get to that point. I'm guessing they would have to be simple holes in the Bottom of the box with maybe one with a standpipe to act as emer.drain or could something that incorporates your overflow siphon original to this thread be used?
If cutting the silt, any idea for the correct tool to make that cut? Or if cutting down through everything including the trim ring what tool for that large a removal of material? I've read where people use diamond points in Dremel type tools, yes some other? Sorry for all the questions, one more, the drains on the outside box if I get to that point. I'm guessing they would have to be simple holes in the Bottom of the box with maybe one with a standpipe to act as emer.drain or could something that incorporates your overflow siphon original to this thread be used?
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