Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[saltee dood]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12990486#post12990486 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cpeisher
you might want to try turning your saw blade around backwards to cut plastic. Usually this will help relieve the "grabbing". Your best bet for ease of cutting is probably going to be either a bandsaw if you have one, or putting the piece in a bench vise and using a sawzall.

Well, that sounds like a plan then, I have both a vise and a sawzall.(and plenty of teflon tape)

Bean, another question if ya dont mind.

this is the current victim...

I was debating with myself about cutting short the overflow just short of the returns on either end, is there a fairly easy way to extend the returns over the weir without getting in the way of the planned screen over the top?
Was thinking of maybe upturned 90 out of the bulkhead, then using more pipe to form a square U (2 more 90s with connecting pieces of pvc) that would go over the lip of the weir. That would allow me to drill the syphon break inside the overflow area, which in turn would greatly reduce the amount of water to the sump when power fails.

Is the principle sound? Any gotchas Im not seeing to doing this?

thanks for all your help

 

[cardiffgiant]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12983484#post12983484 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
A hacksaw or dremel will work just fine. I used the tablesaw, but would NOT recomend doing so unless you fully understand how stupid an idea it is and how easy it is to get VERY hurt unless you have the proper fence and/or miter gauge setup.

I shortened some with my electric miter saw once. Also a potentially dumb and dangerous idea. I stuck them on the end of a spare 3' length of PVC, and chopped off the ends, then grinded them level.

 

[BeanAnimal]

In this case, an overflow the full lenght of the tank and one that is just short of the returns will work about the same. The box with "sides" will add maybe 8" of linear length and make up for the 10" that you lose to accomodate the returns on the sides of it.

Other than that, sure you could go coast-to-coast and use elbows to send the returns over the top of the weir.. a lot of hassle and there will be headloss due to the fittings and sharp turns.

What would "I" do? I would put the returns OVER THE TOP and use the outermost bulkheads for closed loop intakes. I would plumb them internally with an elbow a tee and (2) strainers each to suck water from the mid to lower-middle area of the tank behind the LR.

Bean

 

[saltee dood]

hmm. I wasnt really planning on a CL on this tank. I'm not real comfotable with the thought of a hole drilled anywhere in the tank that would allow lots of water to leak if it fails. At least with the 5 I have now, combined with the shallowness of the overflow, if one fails the water volume on the floor will be minimal.

how bout this then?

Instead of running the in-tank return part with hard pvc, how about locline direct from the bulkhead? It is flexible enough to go right over the edge of the weir and the arc would be gentle instead of hard 90s. Going over the top would be fine if I werent intending on covering the top with fiberglass screening.

I'm really liking the thought of the anti-syphon hole being underwater in the overflow instead of actually under the surface of the display. Woudn't that greatly reduce the amount of backflow during power outages?

I havent ever worked with locline, so I'm assuming that this way is doable.

Thoughts?

oh, and btw...hacksaw works like a charm....cuts thru the pvc easily and little danger of ouchies if it gets away from you.
Vise+hacksaw= shorter 90s.
A little 600 grit sandpaper to smooth the rough edges, and waalaa...3.5" needed to remove versus 4"

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12999175#post12999175 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltee dood
hmm. I wasnt really planning on a CL on this tank. I'm not real comfotable with the thought of a hole drilled anywhere in the tank that would allow lots of water to leak if it fails. At least with the 5 I have now, combined with the shallowness of the overflow, if one fails the water volume on the floor will be minimal.

How do ya figure

If hte return pump is still running... then the overflow box has an endless supply of water until the sump runs dry... it may be a bit less than draining the tank to the bottom of the bulkheads, but at that point, a flood is a flood is a flood.

It is perfectly safe to have bulkheads in the non overflow area, just do it correctly and you have nothing to worry about

Loc-Line is fine, but it is somehwat restrictive due to its diameter and it creates salt creep like crazy.

As far as backflow.... I suppose what you need depends on the size of your sump and how deep you plan on putting the returns.

The closed loop allows you to not worry about backflow... you can put the returns shallow and derive the bulk of the directional flow from the closed loop(s)

Let us know what you decide to do... your initial plans are certainly not bad, I am just giving you options to think about.

 

[jleichtman]

Bean,

I'm picking up my new 60 gallon cube soon and I would like to know if I can scale this to my tank. 1.5" pipes are overkill in my overflow box (12"x12" and 4" deep) and frankly won't fit two of them. I just ran by home depot and I would need 5" x 1.75" for each pipe if I scaled it to 1". If I read it read this right you are saying scaling the pipes down causing more problems when trying to get them set so you recommend the largest pipe you can do.

Could I do a 3/4" pipe for the emergency and siphon and a 1" line for the open channel? This would give additional room in the open channel and I would still be able to fit all three into the overflow. Sorry I'm still trying to take in the last 20 pages but I think this could work.

Could you let me know what you think. Thanks

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yes, you can scale the setup down... the larger the open channel the better. A return pump for the 60 does not have to be very large, so your plans should work (if the return pump is kept a reasonable size).

Bean

 

[LoneRanger]

BeanAnimal, did you not get my e-mail with the pictures?

L.R.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Lemme check again... I have been somewhat distracted over the last few days...

 

[sikpupy]

Hello Bean, since this was your thread, i was wondering in your opinion, whats better to use for ease of dialing in the water flow, a ball valve or gate valve? Not sure if it was mentioned and if it was, i apologize.

 

[BeanAnimal]

If you are speaking about this setup... it does not really matter, as there is not much dialing in to do. A ball valve with a little silicone lubricant on it is all you need. The gate valve should work though.

 

[LoneRanger]

E-mail?

lol

L.R.

 

[sikpupy]

Thank you so much bean. I thought I had this all wrapped up, but, going with the 1.5 inch design. I just checked around and so far, I can only find "slip x slip" in a "lightweight" bulkhead up to 1" only. The rest of the bigger bulkheads are "slip x thread" units, especially the schedule 80 units. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, lol.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Just to clarify, my setup uses 1" bulkheads (because that is what I had on hand). Larger bulkheads will certainly work.

LoneRanger I did not see the email in my gmail account... but then again I could have missed it.

 

[GlassReef]

Great thread! I just ordered a glass tank with an EXTERNAL coast to coast overflow. Had 3 holes drilled for 1 1/2" bulkheads on the bottom of the overflow box - so my standpipes are coming straight up through the bottom of the overflow. My question - do I use 90 deg elbows in order to maintain the original design of the standpipes or do I just leave them vertical, like a Durso?

 

[sikpupy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13003190#post13003190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Just to clarify, my setup uses 1" bulkheads (because that is what I had on hand). Larger bulkheads will certainly work.

I am a little scared to get the schedule 80's and not be able to find threaded elbows to fit. Are threaded elbows a dime a dozen item for the schedule 80's too? How far will threaded elbows trow my box out? thats anoher concern, trying to keep it around 4" deep.

 

[coralfragger101]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13007546#post13007546 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GlassReef
Great thread! I just ordered a glass tank with an EXTERNAL coast to coast overflow. Had 3 holes drilled for 1 1/2" bulkheads on the bottom of the overflow box - so my standpipes are coming straight up through the bottom of the overflow. My question - do I use 90 deg elbows in order to maintain the original design of the standpipes or do I just leave them vertical, like a Durso?

I have an external overflow box and my bulkheads are on the bottom of the box. Here is how I did mine.

 

[mccrat]

Very nice CoralFragger. Is that a peninsula overflow?

 

[coralfragger101]

Peninsula?

It's just a box. I made it.

 

[mccrat]

yup, I see that it is a box. Is it on the end of your tank or is it across the back of your tank?