Sinistard's 68.8 Acrylic Tank Journal [Photo Intense]
- Thread starter Sinistard
- Start date
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
where did you get all your plumbing fittings again? do you own stock in them now 
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
rjwilson37
New member
That plumbing in the stand looks like Doc Oc from Spiderman 2. I hope you have them all labeled downstairs, like a phone wiring closet so you know which is which.
You going to turn it on and be like Ooops... that is the overflow.. with water shooting towards the ceiling... Your wife will be like, yep honey that pump sure puts out some good flow... just like you said it would... but I don't think it suppose to do that???
You will be like... yep honey... your a genius!
Just kidding, it is a very nice setup indeed!
You going to turn it on and be like Ooops... that is the overflow.. with water shooting towards the ceiling... Your wife will be like, yep honey that pump sure puts out some good flow... just like you said it would... but I don't think it suppose to do that???
You will be like... yep honey... your a genius!
Just kidding, it is a very nice setup indeed!
drewdegenhardt
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6607125#post6607125 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sinistard
I got some work done on my "hood"
Here is the frame of the hood. I plan to stick the crown molding on the bottom.
I added a 2x2 to both end on the inside of the hood and cut 2 pieces of angle aluminum that sit on the 2x2s.
Next I cut 2 pieces of 2" flat aluminum to use as plates for the 2 aqua-medic pendents. I drilled holes to match the mounting holes on the pendents, the spacing was different on the 2 pendents. I used machined #10-32 1" screws that fit in the holes for the hanging kit that come with the pendents, matching nuts, #10 washers and 1/4 lock washers to connect the plates to the lights
Here is the arrangement of washers and nuts that I used.
I stuck the 3 washers under the plate as spacers and the nut, washer and lock washer above the plate to lock the screw in place. Basically I screwed the screw in around 1/3 inch careful not to bottom it out and then tightened the nut while holding the screw in place. The nut and lock washer will keep the screw from coming loose.
The plate slides in between the 2 pieces of angle aluminum. This way I will be able to slide the lights left and right easily.
Once I get the lights where I want them as far as front to back I will stick screw though the angle aluminum into the 2x2s. This will keep the plates for falling out of the channels.
Next I need to add the crown molding and the hinge. For now I plan to keep the top open. Eventually I plan to add a couple t-5 lights to the hood.
If you wanted to get really fancy I think Icecap sells a motor and rails that would move a light back and forth over the tank.
Great tank by the way...Lots of great original ideas.
Sinistard
New member
Thanks, you are right visitors are like what the :eek1:
Like alten said they are aquamedic ocean lights. Both are 250w, and they go for around 250-280 new.
Thanks alten
Thanks Mike. You will be happy with socalcreations, super nice guys and great work.
If you get the back drilled for a closed loop here is a couple things I might have changed with my set up.
The inlets for the closed loop are a bit low, I plan to have a shallow sand bed and am worried about sand being sucked in. Also they are very close to the outside of the tank and will be highly visible, if I did it again I might have moved them in a bit to allow me to hide them with LR. I also probably should have made the holes bigger. For pumps like the dart 2" holes are recommended and with bigger holes there would be less suction.
If you have any questions for me let me know.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6743117#post6743117 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lunchbucket
where did you get all your plumbing fittings again? do you own stock in them now
Lunchbucket
The parts are all from savko except the strainers in the the overflow. Those are from Marine depot.
I should have taken out some stock in savko I would be rich
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6743799#post6743799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rjwilson37
That plumbing in the stand looks like Doc Oc from Spiderman 2. I hope you have them all labeled downstairs, like a phone wiring closet so you know which is which.
You going to turn it on and be like Ooops... that is the overflow.. with water shooting towards the ceiling... Your wife will be like, yep honey that pump sure puts out some good flow... just like you said it would... but I don't think it suppose to do that???
You will be like... yep honey... your a genius!
Just kidding, it is a very nice setup indeed!
LOL. The first time I turned it on I was a bit worried about that.
I had the wife talk into the tubes to make sure I got the right ones and the way they are cut they really only reach to the union they belong to.
On a side note I could have used the tubes to make people think my tank was talking to them when it was empty, PVC tubes are a great conductor of sound.
Thanks.
I thought about the light rails at one point but my tank is only 44" wide so I did not figured it might be overkill.
It would be kind of cool, just one 400watt MH on a rail the starts on one side then over the whole day moves to the other side then resets over night. Maybe an actinic on both sides one that turns on before the MH for sun up and the other one on the other side turns on after the MH for sun set. I don't know how much good it would do but it would be cool to see.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6745590#post6745590 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MacnReef
8 days and no updates!!! Come on!
I know it's been a week.
I have had the fresh water running to make sure everything works and I am getting some very small micro bubble when I have my return pump on. I don't know if its something that will go away once I have LR in the tank to break up the flow or if I have a small air leak in a return lines that is adding bubbles. I have been trying to isolate the problem.
With just the closed loop on I don't get any bubbles so it's good to go.
I just got new filters for my RO system and am getting ready to put RO water in the tank then I will be able to stick in some LR. I would like to get the bubble thing figured out before I do this so I don't waste a bunch of salt and RO water.
Sinistard
New member
Your diagram looks familiar
Everything looks good.
One thing I would change is make the return lined 1". You can always make them smaller with fittings but you can't make them bigger. I found this out the hard way. I wish my closed loop and return lines where all 1" and not 3/4". I could probably drill them bigger but it would be a pain and I might damage the tank plus I would have to redue a bunch of plumbing which I really don't what to due.
If you are going to try to keep the plumbing confined to a tight space behind the tank like I did make sure there is space to run each line down. It looks like you will be ok from your diagram. The only place you might run in to problems will be under the overflow. 2" fittings are big.
Oh and for you extra back-up drain get another 1.5" to be safe.
Everything looks good.
One thing I would change is make the return lined 1". You can always make them smaller with fittings but you can't make them bigger. I found this out the hard way. I wish my closed loop and return lines where all 1" and not 3/4". I could probably drill them bigger but it would be a pain and I might damage the tank plus I would have to redue a bunch of plumbing which I really don't what to due.
If you are going to try to keep the plumbing confined to a tight space behind the tank like I did make sure there is space to run each line down. It looks like you will be ok from your diagram. The only place you might run in to problems will be under the overflow. 2" fittings are big.
Oh and for you extra back-up drain get another 1.5" to be safe.
MacnReef
Active member
Yeah, I stole the diagram from this cool guy on RC.
That's a good idea on the returns and I will make that change!
I am having the drain for the closed loop moved so it is out of the way. But I really appreciate the input. Also a good idea on the back up drain...I will do that too!
Mike
That's a good idea on the returns and I will make that change!
I am having the drain for the closed loop moved so it is out of the way. But I really appreciate the input. Also a good idea on the back up drain...I will do that too!
Mike
acroporid23
In Memoriam
awesome so far cant wait to see it stocked
MacnReef
Active member
Post on my post so we don't mess his up.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=777491
But FYI, no sand bed.
Mike
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=777491
But FYI, no sand bed.
Mike
Kinetic
Active member
I think the dart should be ok, he has a lot of plumbing which would bring the flow down dramatically, and there are sneaky ways to keep the sand down
I'm using the DART for my 82g display, only because the locline and om ss I'm using can't take more than the DART has to offer, otherwise I'd up it to a hammerhead.
I'm using the DART for my 82g display, only because the locline and om ss I'm using can't take more than the DART has to offer, otherwise I'd up it to a hammerhead.
Sinistard
New member
Like koden said the dart loses flow in a hurry once you start adding plumbing.
I figured out my flow with a gallon jug (9 seconds to fill the jug) and I am down to 1600 gph from my dart, 400gph out of each outlet. This kind of sucks but the only way for me to fix it would be to completely change my plumbing which I will not be doing any time soon LOL.
I think my biggest problem is the 3/4" outlets. They are probably what is restricting the flow the most. If I ever decide to up the flow I will just need to get a pressure rated pump.
I think I can live with 1600 gph, that's around what I would have been getting from my panworld before and the dart uses a ton less power.
With the return and the CL I figure around 35-40x turnover. This should be good for what I plan to keep.
Feel free to post here as well as you own MacnReef the more info in one place the better. People can learn from my mistakes and there have been a few LOL.
I figured out my flow with a gallon jug (9 seconds to fill the jug) and I am down to 1600 gph from my dart, 400gph out of each outlet. This kind of sucks but the only way for me to fix it would be to completely change my plumbing which I will not be doing any time soon LOL.
I think my biggest problem is the 3/4" outlets. They are probably what is restricting the flow the most. If I ever decide to up the flow I will just need to get a pressure rated pump.
I think I can live with 1600 gph, that's around what I would have been getting from my panworld before and the dart uses a ton less power.
With the return and the CL I figure around 35-40x turnover. This should be good for what I plan to keep.
Feel free to post here as well as you own MacnReef the more info in one place the better. People can learn from my mistakes and there have been a few LOL.
MacnReef
Active member
lol...ok, just don't want to step on your toes...
My Dart will be about 14" from my the inlet bulkhead and the return lines will be running 24", at MOST! So I figure I should be getting full flow from the dart. If I don't have enought flow once its all said and done, here I come Hammerhead! I was originally gonna get the Hammerhead but changed my mind at the last minute.
I am hoping for about 1500 gph out of each return running on of the Dart through the OM 4 Way.
Mike
My Dart will be about 14" from my the inlet bulkhead and the return lines will be running 24", at MOST! So I figure I should be getting full flow from the dart. If I don't have enought flow once its all said and done, here I come Hammerhead! I was originally gonna get the Hammerhead but changed my mind at the last minute.
I am hoping for about 1500 gph out of each return running on of the Dart through the OM 4 Way.
Mike
Sinistard
New member
A few updates.
I added digital timers for my lights. I have not decided on a lighting schedule yet. They are digital timers from Lowes. They are nice because they are grounded and handle high loads.
I also got a dedicated RO/DI system for the tank. Before I was using our house RO which is rated for 25 gpd so we did not have any drinking water while I was filling the tank.
The new RO/DI is a Premium Reef Supply from Premium Aquatics. They people at Premium Aquatics said it was a good system for the money, close to or as good as the Kent's or Spectra Pure just without the name.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=PR-RODI50&Category_Code=Premiumreef
I also got a Kent float valve shut off kit. For now it's set up to fill the sump but eventually I will have it filling up a reservoir that will be part of my top off system. I also includes a pressure activated solenoid to turn off water to the RO system
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...Product_Code=KENT-AUTO&Category_Code=kentroac
I also installed the other American DJ 8 way switch. I plan to enclose the electric to keep salt creep and water away from the electric. I will add a back and side walls to the stand then seal the enclosure.
I also ordered my GEO skimmer. He is a bit backed up so it will be a few weeks.
That's it for now. The new RO system is filling the tank as we speak, although it will take a couple days. After that I can add salt.
I added digital timers for my lights. I have not decided on a lighting schedule yet. They are digital timers from Lowes. They are nice because they are grounded and handle high loads.
I also got a dedicated RO/DI system for the tank. Before I was using our house RO which is rated for 25 gpd so we did not have any drinking water while I was filling the tank.
The new RO/DI is a Premium Reef Supply from Premium Aquatics. They people at Premium Aquatics said it was a good system for the money, close to or as good as the Kent's or Spectra Pure just without the name.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=PR-RODI50&Category_Code=Premiumreef
I also got a Kent float valve shut off kit. For now it's set up to fill the sump but eventually I will have it filling up a reservoir that will be part of my top off system. I also includes a pressure activated solenoid to turn off water to the RO system
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...Product_Code=KENT-AUTO&Category_Code=kentroac
I also installed the other American DJ 8 way switch. I plan to enclose the electric to keep salt creep and water away from the electric. I will add a back and side walls to the stand then seal the enclosure.
I also ordered my GEO skimmer. He is a bit backed up so it will be a few weeks.
That's it for now. The new RO system is filling the tank as we speak, although it will take a couple days. After that I can add salt.
