SMB2415 550g (84x36x42) build

[smb2415]

Hello to all. I don't have any specific questions yet but figured I would start a build post for when they do arise.

I picked up a used 550g (84x36x42) glass tank (great deal) with euro bracing. It appears unused although the previous owner said he believes it was setup for fresh water. There is no staining, scratches or any indication that this was ever fully setup. It looks more like someone built it and tore it down. The tank is drilled for (2) 2" and (2) 1.5" in an overflow box on one end - peninsula style.

I actually found this tank for sale while searching for something else and thought it was too good to pass up. Upon inspection it did does have a chipped corner and appears to have been made by someone without alot of aquarium experience. I can see some air pockets in the silicone and there is vertical reinforcing on the ends and well as the usual along the bottom and euro bracing.

Tank in hand the first challenge was to move it into the basement..... hmmm, no stand yet and need the truck to get materials. If I hire someone then I'll need to hire someone again to put it on stand.... I opted to move it myself with assistance from my brother. Heres the link to how I did that:
Moving 550g down basement stairs - Reef Central Online Community

Result: Its now in the basement and it didnt break. If there is a next time I would hire a flatbed, I think would've been the perfect solution.

 

[MHG]

Congrats on the tank find and I like how you put it in the dungeon..... Looks like new....

 

[smb2415]

the stand:
after reading posts on here I decided I wanted a steel stand. Allows for more room under tank as I am limited in ceiling height and do not want a center support.

I opted for 2"x3" .125" HSS tube (rectangle tube) for the top frame and 2"x2" .250" for the legs and bottom frame. This is overkill but I feel better. I wanted the 2x2 .250 for the bottom as if I need to shim the frame I dont want to worry about reinforcing as I woudl with angle iron. I didnt use .125" because I was worried about ~5500lbs on 4 points crushing a thinner wall (.125"). The design is completely closed using mitres for all corners to prevent water and salt damage.

The steel and cutting cost ~$450 and I spent another $100 on restocking welding supplies. Cutting was only about $2/cut and saved me from muscling the large stock and purchasing a cold steel bandsaw ~$200 used on craigslist. For the steel shop to supply and wled it would have been ~$1000.

I am going to finish with black powder coat. I chose this of truck bed liner as I liked the finish better and cost seems to be similar. depending upon the shop I use $150-$250.

I want to have a platform on both sides to ease working on the tank. I saw a post but cant find it right now. I'm debating between using folding roofing plank brackets or HSS tube with square bars mounted to a 2x10. This 2x10 would be able to be put on either side.
Almost forgot - yes the tank will be setup as a peninsula. These brackets are not on the print. To attach the finish facade I plan on using quarter turn screws mounted to gussets and some other brackets - http://www.southco.com/product/class.aspx?cid=7438&ctid=. I'll also need some misc brackets under the top platform for mounting of lights, pumps and whatnot - I do not want to drill any holes in the steel frame.

Under the tank I will use 3/4" pressure treated plywood with one side laminated with that plastic stuff they use in commercial bathrooms. Then 3/4" blue board foam under the tank. The reason for the plastic to to help prevent moisture on the plywood from sump tank evaporation.

The stand platforms are welded up and grinded all welds smooth.... I wont be applying to be a welder... Tomorrow I should be able to attach legs and platforms.

 

[smb2415]

The sump/fuge:

I really like this idea from Simon Garrat - http://www.reef-eden.net/Reef-eden-Intro.htm

This is the link to his incredible build idea.
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/66115-intertidal-reef-flat-mixed-biotope-system.html

I'm putting my twist on it and still developing the plans. I'm thinking of a 55-75g upstairs for the tidal/seagrass tank. The rest would be in the fish closet behind the display tank. I am planning on adding a 30x30" sump under the DT for the skimmer.

From reading Simons posts The cryptic and DSB would not be lit. Only a cheapo light for cheato in a section of the rubble tank and for the ATS/Return tank.

 

[smb2415]

In the photo above, tanks are in order from top to bottom - Cryptic, Rubble/Algae, DSB, ATS/Return. The long tank is a tidal/seagrass tank.

I'm liking this idea as it seems to be a culmination of many different ideas and filters of which I believe in (in my newbie mind). From my logic it appears to offer substantial filtering abilities while also including some interesting viewing - I'm interested to see what grows in the cryptic and very excited about the tidal tank.

I also want to add Frag, Breeder, and hospital (isolated). Under the tank I figured would be a good place for the skimmer sump and frag tank. I hope I can fit and service a skimmer with 16" of height!

For tanks, I'm planning on using Aqueon 40 breeder tanks (36x18x16 for the the Cryptic, DSB, ATS, Breeder. Aqueon 20g for the hospital. For the rubble/cheato and frag a custom built acrylic 36x18x8. For the skimmer sump a custom acrylic 30"x30"x10 or 12". I chose Aqueon due to the Petco $1/gallon sale and acrylic appears to cost less than custom cut glass with seam edge.

1/4" 4x8' Acrylic sheets should cost about $175/ea

 

[smb2415]

As my basement is not yet finished and alot of people recommend starting a new tank using a well developed sand bed bio-filters I'm thinking of setup up the rubble, DSB, and seagrass tanks first. hopefully this will allow me to begin to develop some live rock, live sand, and of course gain some experience prior to the large system.

Thoughts?

 

[smb2415]

so far I'm thinking of seeding the rubble and DSB with:

(1) 12lb fuji mud refugium starter
(10) lbs caribsea oceans-direct oolite
(10) lbs caribsea argonite reef sand
(2) rock crud from premiumaquatics
(2) aquacultured sand from premiumaquatics
(1) 10g package live rock/sand from gulfview

and a final ~5lbs with samplings of live sand from LFS and reefers to give diversity.
I will probably need additional live rock rubble which I'll acquire at a later date, maybe part of the DT setup purchase. Either way it'll be from a different sources.

from what I've read on DSB and live rock - diversity, diversity, diversity.

or perhaps I'm overthinking it?

 

[smb2415]

Equipment: none purchased yet but if anyone has some suggestions or modifications or additions. I'm looking to gain as much efficiency as feasible when selecting equipment. The DT will be a mixed reef system.

Pumps:
(2) return and fuge supply pump speedwave DC 10000
(4) Ecotech vortec mp40's - 1 in each corner

Lighting:
either (4) AI Sol or Ecotech Radion ( Im watching large tank reefers for their thoughts on LEDs and which especially for deep tanks such as mine) - I plan on a mixed reef and so lighter and darker tank areas?!? WIth SOL units I'm figuring 6 at most. and using the new director controller.

Controller:
not now but future - APEX. so as much as possible I want my equipment to be compatible.

Water Testing:
(1) PH Tester Hanna hi98127
(1) tds meter hanna tds1
(1) Phosphate tester hanna hi713
(1) alk tester hanna hi755
(1) refractormeter milwauki ma887
(1) calcium test sailfert Ca
(1) magnesium test sailfert Mg
(1) ammonia sailfert NH3
(1) nitrite hanna hi764
(1) nitrate sailfert no3

RO/DI:
I have well water and I'm leaning towards Kold Sterile filters and ties into fridge water/ice and kitchen sink drinking water faucet.

Skimmer:
no clue - recommendations? Deltec or bubble king seem ideal however OMG $$$$. Octopus? perhaps none at all?

Exhaust fan:
Im going to use a single fan tech HP175. DT hood will be a tight fitting custom fiberglass with 4" exhaust and another 4" in the fish tank closet. Vent to outside and on a timer or temp sensor?

Plumbing:
all sch80 and use cepex true union ball valves and a few nibco sch80 3 way ball valves

Thats the beginnings of it....still making my lists....and playing lotto

 

[smb2415]

heres my flow and size calculations. I compiled these recommended sizes from various sources so I am using these as my rough guidelines.

DT at 550g should have 20%/hr water change so 11000gph
SUMP 3-5% should go thru the sump so 2750/gph of the 11000
Fuge - Fuge should be min of 20% of DT=150g, Im figuring a fuge min size of 150g and at 3-6% water flow is 900gph

So there remains 7350gph to be circulated within the DT. (11000-2750-900=7350)

Im planning on using speedwave 10000 which has a max rate of 2640 and I have about 5' of head height so I am a bit undersized for the return...maybe the 12000 will be released before I purchase. For the sump I should be good as it is gravity feed and flow will be split to the fuge.

The vortex (4) MP40s each capable of up to 3200/gph = 12,800/gph at max. So I should be good there.

Additionally I figure I'll need a RO tank for at least 10 days (personal preference) worth orf top offs. and a SW tank for ideally 50% of system system for emergency water changes... As my total system volume will be around 800g I doubt I'll be able to store 400gallons anywhere... hmmm I'll have to read what others plan for capacity.

 

[smb2415]

Here are my plans for a custom water heater. It would cost next to zero to run this. Cost to build should be under $400. It's designed to be controlled via APEX or similar.

If you have an instant h/w heater then you may need to modify this slightly - specifically for flow as some low volume pumps will not cause the heater to kick on.

 

[smb2415]

picked up 1 - 40g breeder and 1- 20g from petco today. My local petco sold out of the 2 40g breeders they had a few days ago.. I'll have to wait until the next sale.

 

[smb2415]

for those interested here are my inspirational photos for my basement remodel where the DT will go.

 

[smb2415]

the opening into the theater room and the sliding barn doors go behind the stone arch.

<div><a href='http://www.houzz.com/photos/96963/Media-Room-traditional-media-room-other-metro'><img src='http://st.houzz.com/simgs/690102260d1420ef_8-2843/traditional-media-room.jpg' border=0 width='500' height='376' /></a></div><div style='color:#444;'><small><a style='text-decoration:none;color:#444;' href='http://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional/media-room'>Traditional Media Room</a> by <a style='text-decoration:none;color:#444;' href='http://www.houzz.com/professionals/general-contractor/c/Delaware%2C-OH'>Delaware General Contractor</a> <a style='text-decoration:none;color:#444;' href='http://www.houzz.com/pro/buckeyebasements/buckeye-basements-inc'>Buckeye Basements, Inc.</a></small></div>

 

[smb2415]

just purchased a $200 used titanium coil to use as the heater exchanger.

Now looking for an efficient circulating pump to use

<a href="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/titaniumheatexchanger.jpg/" target="_blank"><img src="http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/534/titaniumheatexchanger.jpg" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" border="0"/></a>

 

[smb2415]

update on the stand: I completed welding of the legs joining the base and top. I welded on a few washers under the base side of the aquarium so I can hang lights, etc later. I also welded on the small square tube to use for the removable planking on each side. --planking will be used as a ledge to stand on while working on the tank.

Ive been looking for 1" long quarter-turns to use to attach the finish covering to the stand but am yet unsuccessful finding a supplier so I am now considering using epoxy coated magnets.

Pics to come.

Next stop to drop off for powder coat

 

[BfishLpond78]

Very well thought out. I like the idea of diversity within the different fuge sections.

What type of tank are you going for?

May I ask where in CT you are from. Always happy to lend a hand.

 

[smb2415]

I'm in Wallingford, CT. I going for a mixed reef including spa, lps, softies, clams, fish, inverts, etc lol I really liked the Greenwich Aquaria 600g (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp_PwO3dHNM) so I think I'm aiming for that look and maybe mix in some of the ideas from this "cave" build (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2268726)

Id always welcome a helping hand. I'll let you know once I have some material onsite. So far I have the 500g, 1-40g, 1-20g, and the stand is at the powder coat.

In the next 2 weeks I hope to order some plumbing, sand, pump, etc and get some fresh water flowing for leaks test.

Im still planning on setting up the DSB first. The rest of the fuges will have to wait until either petco has another sale or I can source the tanks as cheaply. I;ve also been keeping my eye out for large inexpensive acrylic sumps.

 

[BfishLpond78]

Well i'm right in Hamden so I am pretty close. I believe Petco is having their $1 per gallon sale right now so I would def start hunting them down.

The Greenwich tank is unbelievable and would be a great model to replicate.

 

[smb2415]

I'd be surprised it if is or maybe tomorrow is the final day. I searched all the local stores for 40g's and they were all sold. Wallingford had 2 but when I went back to pick em up both were gone plus a few 55g. Apparently they fly off the shelves during the sale.

yes, Greenwich's display is great, I'm trying to find build info so I can get a handle on their aquascaping since that first on my list after I know the DT holds water.

Ohh yup still need to finish the basement build out so I can have a comfy place to watch the tank...lol

 

[smb2415]

received my titanium coil for my water heater today. The stand should be back from powder coat next week.
I also found what I think Im going to use for my SW mix and sump tanks:
SW mix tank - going to use a lightly 265g IBC tank - http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/storage/bins-totes-containers/containers-ibc/ibc-container-275-gallon-un-approved?utm_source=google_pr&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Containers-IBC-Accessories-google_pr&infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CL6xsNSm87YCFYPd4AodmmoAcw

and sump tank - a 75g poly tub by Tuff Stuff - http://www.tufftubs.com/htdocs/KMR75.htm