SMB2415 550g (84x36x42) build

great build, im doing one similar. im curious to know how the mp60 is working out? are you making waves or is it running constantly does it make too much noise? would you do it again?
cheers

Im not too excited about the MP60s. while they have plenty of rpms and do push a bit of water the flow is fairly narrow, at any setting. Ive been thinking of trying out 2 of the large Gyres. and perhaps not use the MP60s. They are a bit noisy although I don't have the most recent "quieter" versions.

Would I do it again.... no... however our options are limited and so I probable chose the best option at the time. My system is in the basement so while noise isn't a critical factor I was still disappointed. Theres a few thing about the MPs that I am not excited about. The company wants you to "rely" upon a sticky tab included with it to ensure it does fall off or drop... yes, a $.02 sticky tab for a $675 pump. second, the magnet doesnt hold the pump on as well as I would like and makes me uncomfortable. The cord is too short for those of use with large tanks and lengthening it voids warranty unless you send them the whole thing and have them do it (I have one extended unit).

Some people seem to really enjoy these pumps, me not so much. Throughout the build Ive tried to select the best or at lest close to best of products available and with the mindset of keeping the electrical bill reasonable. Populating my tank with 4 or more MP60s seems like an unnecessary expense both upfront and in operating costs. If I can use 2 gyres to better cover the flow of the whole tank with similar costs then I will ultimately end up going this route.

Another item I would change is I would have opted for multiple submersible return pumps rather than 1 single reeflo hammerhead....its the noisiest thing in the whole system... however it is the most efficient for my setup.
 
Hi Steve, I like my MP 60s and had my own issues with them. Maybe useful to share here my experience as well. 1. Same for an 11 feet long tank I could have used a longer chord as you would think they would make a connector to allow for such an extension without having to splice the one they give you 2. They are difficult to align with the magnet and if not aligned will be noisy, otherwise OK 3. The sticky that comes with it is worthless as well in my case, wished they had a slot to hook it to a wall screw 4. In my case the magnet part is inaccessible the way my contractor built the end framing. Not fun to adjust the location. Otherwise I am OK with the flow since I have no knowledge of other items to use so I will await your feed back on the Gyres.. My in tank DC 10500 pumps are quiet but had several failures. Would stay with an in sump quite pump but maybe something more durable in the future... Thanks for the update Steve
 
Sass, nothing recent... Since eI took vacation in Jan Ive been fighting with my RO and water quality issues....as a result phosphates have creeped up to .80 and so have had constant red cyano on the sand as seen in above photos. I tried adding some flow with an MP40 but it didn't seem to do much for the cyano. Ive done large water changes. Just added a GFO reactor a week ago and that seems to be helping. Im going to test again this weekend and do another large water change... and take it from there.

---- As a side note I have to say this hobby is a difficult one to figure out how to respond correctly to various situations. Everything is interlinked and the go slowly advice is often difficult to swallow while you watch your tank in poor shape. These learning curves have led me to adapt a no more buying livestock or coral until my water params are dead on and stay stable.

ugggh
 
Water params have been less than ideal but pretty stable. Working on lowering Phosphates, raising PH, and Nitrates. Ive added GFO reactor to help with Phosphates. Added a CO2 scrubber for PH however it really hasn't done much so probably not keeping that running. For nitrates, Im still puzzled. I prefer to use a natural solution such as increase the size of the ATS and/or add more live rock. I think ultimately Im going to need to run a pellet reactor. Im just puzzled. I have the skimmer running 24/7 and it barely makes skimmate. Ive tried two skimmers, 2 beckett style and a SWC 300 and both performed the same.

Temp 78.5
PH 8.05
Salinity 1.025
Alk (has been fluctuating) 7.0 - 9 dkh (I'm trying to stabilize at 9dkh)
Mg 1320
Calc 410-440
Nitrate 2.0 !!ouch
Phosphate 0.80 !!ouch

prior to the RO issues nitrates were 0.25 and phosphates at .16
 
RO issues - I have a puratek 100 and it was time to replace all the filters. I have a .5 and .1 preflilter, carbon block, and RO. Then dual DI canisters. I have well water and for the first year I used this RO setup it ran flawlessly until I changed the filters.

First, I tried a GE TFM-100 and was getting a constant 6-7 TDS after DI!. Then I tried a filmtec 75 and was getting 6 tds after RO at best, but fluctuates. Feed water is 190 tds pretty constant. The RO restrictor (came with unit) is 400 which should be small enough for the 75. At first the filmtec was getting around 15 tds after RO so then I swapped out the restrictor with a ball valve. I was then able to get to 6 tds at best. With both filters I reseated the RO firmly. I also double checked the connections to be sure they were correct. Someone I talked to mentioned measuring product vs. waste and Ive tried anywhere from 1:1 to 1:6 using the ball valve. Finally I concentrated on just measuring the tds to get the best which is currently 6 tds after RO.

next battle is DI resin, Im using BRS di resin however it is not lasting more than 2-3 days. Im making water in batches of 15-20g. So now I wondering if the resin is just not the same quality as what the unit came with. If feeding 6 tds it seems that the di should last much longer than this.

My next step is to replace the well filter... just because..why not. I will also replace the di resin with another source. Perhaps I just had the perfect storm.... either way it has been frustrating. Also going to order the RO the unit came with a pentair TLC-100.

perhaps its my well water content has changed? causing this to become more than difficult.
 
If you like the natural approach I think that making the scrubber bigger would help N and P. If it is properly sized, it can take care of both by itself. Just crank is up.
 
Been getting back into again. Tank still going though Ive had some setbacks

First the bad events:
  • Had two prolonged power outages one due to hurricane and one for some grid issue. Lost most coral during these
  • (3) GHL Mitras crapped out 2 years in. Ive posted in another thread about this, ended up with using a 400w MH for now since all coral died off
  • Multiple ATO systems crapped out for one reason or another. This led to me doing manual top offs and unfortunately on at least two occasions I left it filling and thus turning the slat to fresh water, lost most all life and fish
  • Had a few RO system failures and since repaired
  • Shelving I was using all rusted out at this point (2023) and needs to be replaced
  • Hot water heater for the house which also provides heat for the tank rusted out, temporarily using multiple electric heaters
  • Both Scotch Vortech MP60's wet sides clogged up and eventually fell off
  • Due to many spills the tank stand (metal) is rusting pretty badly, I'll need to grind that down to see if its structurally good enough to then prime and reseal. Disappointed powder coat didn't hold up as well as I planned
After some of these setbacks I lost interest for a long while. I was disappointed in myself for my mistakes and also in the lack of quality equipment. It's expensive and annoying to keep buying the same stuff.

The good:
  • tank is still going, looks horrible but running.
  • 2 fish survived, 1 Clown and 1 damsel
  • purchased new Stenner dual head pump to do automatic water changes. Plan is to start with 10% water changes over the month. This works out to about 2.5g day. Reason Im opting for the low amount is to avoid wasting too much $$ on salt until I get the water params and algae under control. I'll post some photos and details of my RO and salt water setup once I get it built. I did test my incoming water and I have about 60mg/l of CO2 so I need to build/integrate a CO2 degassed into the build. I'll also be tying into my 275g IBC tank thats outside the house. The IBC has a heater (electric heat pad) and a planned record loop to keep things fresh and prevent freezing.
  • Purchased new Tunze 10k refugium light, powered on but have no Cheato or normal harvestable algae. Doing this as more of an experiment to see if it chokes the algae in the main tank by growing whatever algae in the ATS tank
  • I switched from the Hammerhead pump after the seal leaked and have been using a Jabeo 10k DC pump for the past 6yrs? its been great and to my surprise hasn't failed. I did change the plumbing a bit so that it's sitting in the sump rather than external. This probably saved me about $50/mo in electricity as well
  • Cleaned the MP60s and one is functional again while the other is throwing an error, need to look into that
  • After getting the RO going again (was using just well later for past few years) and getting the MP60 going the cyan is clearing up. I need to spend time vacuuming the tank sand bed and blowing off the rock work into a filter sock, hopefully this weekend
  • I still haven't figured out what Im doing to hot water yet. The house is running off a Navien tankless though it doesn't have a provision for recirculation loop and Ive been unsuccessful in getting one setup to work with it. For now some electric heaters are holding temps steady enough for fish
  • For this round of ATO Im going to use this as the controller, still haven't figured out what pump to use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09697ZDYF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2A3LUPMSDLZSX&psc=1 If this doesn't last then I'm going commercial duty with a close contact 120v relay.
  • I picked up a new unused 8" Aquarium Engineering Calcium Reactor. its huge. Wont get to adding this for a bit though got a good deal on it.
  • Figuring out what I want to do for a skimmer. I have two options as Im not prepared to buy a new one. I have old old ETSS I think thats about 3' tall, or I have an old old SWC 300?/500? that has two SRO-3000 pumps. one of the SRO pumps is shot so Id need 2 new pumps and possible plumbing plus a feed pump for the SWC skimmer. For the ETSS I could probably use the SRO-3000 if I can find the metric fittings to be able to hook it up (need a pickup screen and a metric to FPT barb adaptor.
  • Order new Cambro composite shelving for sump closet. These should last a lifetime as they dont have any metels other than a stainless set screw. these will also hold ~600lbs per shelf. To get these installed I need to break down everything in the sump closet which is a perfect time to clean the tanks, rock work, sump, plumbing, cleanup the wiring, plumbing etc. It'll be an all weekend event Im sure. If you didn't read the earlier posts the sump closet has a large rubbermaid type sump, DSB tank, Cryptic tank, ATS tank, heater, and skimmer. Also as part of this cleanup I'lll be changing the return plumbing and moving to inside the sump closet since the return pump is now in side the sump vs external so no need to keep it in the dry mechanical room.
Im still figuring things out such as the order I want to tackle and some details. Hoping that with water changes, vacuuming, re-establlishing the ATS, skimming, and filter socks that I get the algae and params back on track. Not looking for this to be quick just enough progress to keep my interest and hopes. I promised myself I won't buy any corals, fish, or cleanup until Im confident I have all the plumbing, electrical, heat, ATO, auto-change, RO, and other systems fully operational and completed (except for lighting). For lighting I haven't figured out what Im going to use next though I refuse to use any LED with open air access to circuit boards, fans, or suspect to salt creep. Lights for a tank this size are too damn expensive to replace. Id rather stick with MH than buy LED if I can't find a solution.

Ok sorry for the long winded update, if anyones still following this build


 
progress has been slow, the new shelving for the sump closet was delayed, expecting it later this week.

Been trying to clean the sanded and rock work which is a royal PITA. I been putting a sock on the overflow pipe and using a 600gph pump suction side to a siphon type tube, you know the ones that are about 1.25" diameter clear ones. Starting the siphon by mouth works but it doesn't have a lot of pull so I connected to the pump and works but is a pain. The discharge side of the pump goes to the overflow into the sock so as to reduce the filth back into the tank. Then I reverse it to use the discharge side to allow off the rocks. I'm still up in the air as to if I want to just shit it down, clean and start over. We'll see. tank is getting cleaner

Started using a temporary setup for the CO2 gassing, about 50g made so far and it seems to have reduced the DI resin consumption. We'lll see what it looks like after I fill the 275g RO tank.

For the ATO pump I think Im going to use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3XOXQ0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1VKCAG306HXYS&psc=1. Resembles the Tunze pump though hopefully it'll last longer and I'll power it with a mean well driver hooked up to the Ortis controller I linked in previous post. All this will have to wait until I get the shelving in

I did try to get the old ETSS?? skimmer going though the Octopus OTP-3000 doesn't seem anywhere near capable. Very few bubbles going. prob going to order another Jebao 15000 DC pump, same as my current return pump. Its lasted 6+ years without fail so far.

Started cleaning up the MP60s. One bad power supply, new one coming from amazon. One dry side taken apart and has a lot of salt corrosion but works after cleaning up some of it, should last a while longer though will need to be replaced eventually. The other MP60 I cleaned the wet side and am using it though am going to see about taking apart to replace bearings. Called Ecotech and they didn't seem keen on doing the work though offered to replace the motor, albeit at a cost

nothing else to report currently
 
anyone ever check out commercial LED lights from Maxspect, Ecoxotic, or Orphek? Orpheks Amazona 320 look interesting and not immense in size. Ecoxotic looks to be near shutting its doors (company), Maxspect are pretty massive in size and would be a challenge to fit into my planned canopy

Maxspect 150w

maxspectcommercialfloodlight_150w.jpg


Orphek Amazona
Orphek-amazonas-960-icon-public-aquarium-led-lighting-1588x1060.jpg
 
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Keep up the fight, you will get it dialed in. How often do you do water changes?
I haven't been doing regular waster changes. When the tank was running well I was doing about 20% every 2 months. Moving forward I purchased the dual head stenner pump and will be setting up to do 10%/month or ~2.5g/day
 
Let's see how this goes, trying new photo hosting site. If all goes well I'll go back and update the links in previous posts.

Here's the current conditions of the display tank rock work and sand bed. (n)đź«Ł
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Over the weekend I broke down the closet. Verry glad I did as the racks were so rusted they crumbled in my hands. not sure how the tanks didn't come crashing down. Lesson learned, those chrome rack in Home Depot dont hold up too well with salt water exposure. New Cambro racks did come in. These appear to be well made and as there is no metal other than the stainless set screw should up hold much better. Not the easiest to adjust (requires a mallet). In my case the configuration calls for making an L. I'll see if I can get a few photos posted of the closet.

Screenshot 2023-03-09 at 7.08.12 PM.png
 
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