So what is this and how do I get rid of it!!??
- Thread starter JG1
- Start date
netfishlight
New member
yes, man, it looks seem as we have/had.
I have increased the tech-m to 1650 for three days, not a big change and i still have this stuff grows on the glass, but the rate was slowed down.
A new hanna ultra low checker arrived, the water before tech-M treatment was 0.03ppm, three days later, PO4 is zero now. Nitrate is zero. but i still have this sucker!
I have increased the tech-m to 1650 for three days, not a big change and i still have this stuff grows on the glass, but the rate was slowed down.
A new hanna ultra low checker arrived, the water before tech-M treatment was 0.03ppm, three days later, PO4 is zero now. Nitrate is zero. but i still have this sucker!
netfishlight
New member
As this thing only grow on the high light surfaces, actually, i started to have this because the new LED lighting. Did anyone try to blackout the tank for few days to kill this?
It was mentioned in the first page or two that lights out should be a last resort due to mass amounts of toxins being released into the tank due to die off.
Reviving this older thread. Anyone out there dealing with Lyngbya right now? Any developments regarding how to clear it up over the last couple years? I believe I have a textbook case but need to get it looked at under a scope if I can. I will see if I can get someone in the biology dept. at the college a couple blocks from where I live to take a look. My case is pretty minor.
Seems to thrive in high flow areas of my small DT. Sump has no issue but if neglected will only pop up around teeth cut in the acrylic where flow is the most intense.
I had not changed my GFO or Rowaphos that I run in TLF Phosban 150 Reactors in about 3 months.
Curious if John (JG 1) beat this long term and if others have found good approaches to eliminate or control growth.
Seems to thrive in high flow areas of my small DT. Sump has no issue but if neglected will only pop up around teeth cut in the acrylic where flow is the most intense.
I had not changed my GFO or Rowaphos that I run in TLF Phosban 150 Reactors in about 3 months.
Curious if John (JG 1) beat this long term and if others have found good approaches to eliminate or control growth.
brandon429
Active member
We have two documented kills with peroxide see pico reef pest algae challenge thread
Well, in two weeks I have resolved my issue. I am a firm believer that it is usually a combination of favorable conditions that create the right environment for a particular algae to take hold. Here is what I did to keep Lyngbya from potentially taking hold in my tank:
1) Removed my MP10 and soaked all wet side components in 3% H2O2. The stuff fell off in minutes. Rinsed and let dry overnight, back in service the next morning.
2) Changed all stages in my RO/DI. My RO membrane was 3 years old, I know this because I keep track of all receipts and can easily figure out the replacement timing from that and a notebook that I keep for tank related matters. Other stages of the RO/DI were also a little overdue for replacement.
3) Replaced GFO and Rowaphos. Had been three months for both. Replaced GFO after 2 weeks of usage which is much more frequent than I would usually replace GFO. I'm usually on a 1-2 month replacement cycle but letting it slip to 3 months is not uncommon. I did not replace the Rowaphos a second time, just once before seeing the positive effects.
4) Made sure tank temp. was running on the low side, 76-77 degrees.
5) Used a toothbrush daily for about 3-4 days to scrub the "hot spots" where this algae seemed to be taking hold.
6) Reduced flow marginally, which basically meant taking the MP10 down a couple notches.
7) I did dose Kent Tech M daily to steadily raise my MG from 1350 ppm to 1550 ppm. I usually use ESV for MG additions but went with Tech M to help with this particular algae issue based on this thread and what I read in a couple others.
8) I did several water changes that probably amounted to cumulative change of approximately 30% over the two weeks.
I did not change feeding, in fact, I increased feeding during this time frame.
I don't think any of these things solved the problem alone, but in aggregate, they definitely had an impact.
1) Removed my MP10 and soaked all wet side components in 3% H2O2. The stuff fell off in minutes. Rinsed and let dry overnight, back in service the next morning.
2) Changed all stages in my RO/DI. My RO membrane was 3 years old, I know this because I keep track of all receipts and can easily figure out the replacement timing from that and a notebook that I keep for tank related matters. Other stages of the RO/DI were also a little overdue for replacement.
3) Replaced GFO and Rowaphos. Had been three months for both. Replaced GFO after 2 weeks of usage which is much more frequent than I would usually replace GFO. I'm usually on a 1-2 month replacement cycle but letting it slip to 3 months is not uncommon. I did not replace the Rowaphos a second time, just once before seeing the positive effects.
4) Made sure tank temp. was running on the low side, 76-77 degrees.
5) Used a toothbrush daily for about 3-4 days to scrub the "hot spots" where this algae seemed to be taking hold.
6) Reduced flow marginally, which basically meant taking the MP10 down a couple notches.
7) I did dose Kent Tech M daily to steadily raise my MG from 1350 ppm to 1550 ppm. I usually use ESV for MG additions but went with Tech M to help with this particular algae issue based on this thread and what I read in a couple others.
8) I did several water changes that probably amounted to cumulative change of approximately 30% over the two weeks.
I did not change feeding, in fact, I increased feeding during this time frame.
I don't think any of these things solved the problem alone, but in aggregate, they definitely had an impact.
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