So why isn't anyone aquaculturing Mantis Shrimp?

Opcn

Member
I've seen plenty of threads and articles about culturing true shrimp, and crabs, and any number of pods and mysids, so why haven't I seen any one trying to culture Mantis shrimp. It seems to me like a fairly big market would exist for the offspring of two good looking adults, especially from a more difficult to obtain species.

Any thoughts?
 
Well....to be honest those others are more commonly kept. Mantis have a niche, but that's about all. For most reefers a mantis is an unwanted terror.
-jmo
 
ah but cant you feel that changing? a few years ago youd be hanged if you put a mantis in a reef set up on purpose. nowadays it happens kinda often. we'll see how that goes in teh future.

so why isn't anyone breeding mantids? because its just way too damned hard. all larvae fish or otherwise are fragile, but mantis larvae take it to a whole new level. I have heard of no account of anyone breeding them in home aquaria. only successful ones ive heard of was in a lab setting and the species being bred werent really sought after and/or available in the aquarium trade.
 
they have long larval stages that just makes it difficult. they are cannibalistic as well so in most cases only one makes it if that.
 
lol you're not understanding, my friend. first off, mantis arent actually shrimp technically... but that's kinda unrelated. my point is that mantis larvae are simply MUCH more difficult to raise.

for example, let's look at neon goby larvae. very short life cycle (up to three years or so) and thus a very short planktonic stage. this makes for a very easy time of raising them in captivity.

now let's look at mantids. their plankonic stage is much longer. period. so there is more time spent in this rather delicate stage to die off. plus its just plain expensive buying rotifer all the time. when we say they are cannibalistic, we really do mean cannibals. much worse in this aspect than other SW shrimp. this means that you'd have to separate each larva into its own containment and care for each one separately.

oh and then there's the problem of mating. lol that's just a whole new sack of macaroni. generally in the trade, smashers are the most sought after. they are also the most aggressive and mating in the home aquarium is a very iffy business with many of them.
 
I thought the "true shrimp" part of my first post would make it evident that I understand that mantids are not true shrimp.

as for the food most people who use rotifers for culturing purposes culture their own I believe, so it would be a matter of setting up a few extra jars. you would have to deal with some canibalism, but in a large enought kriesel tank I would imagine that you could keep them far enought apart untill they are capable of handling life in a small tank.
 
How did I miss this thread? Anyways, mantises are very difficult to breed, and even more difficult to raise. Each mantis needs a seperate container and needs to be fed every day with small foods (copepods, rotifiers, bbs, etc.) that are very nutritional and will accept nothing but LIVE foods. And the planktonic stage of gonodactylids is approx. a month, and for Odontodactylids (AKA peacocks) four month estimated. And, it will take about a year for it to grow an inch. I plan to try it anyways, because I have too much time on my hands (just need the money, room, and animals)
 
A kreisel tank? How big? 300 gallons? The feeding density would be huge, nearly impossible on a daily basis for a month. I would immagine a 300 gallon would maybe make 100 mantises after cannabalism. And you are going to have to seperate them very fast after they leave the planktonic.
 
I was thinking Kiesel tank of about 50 gallons. The mantids could move around but by keeping live food like bbs, rotifers and benthic pods thy would be presented with easier targets than their fellow mantids. true shrimp are often highly canableistic aswell.

I'll bet that you could cut some round plastic disks and take some 12 inch PVC pipe and make a series of kriesel tanks, keep 2-3 mantids in each compartment and what not, hmm I think I'm going to go draw up some plans.
 
You have been warned as to the drawbacks. Your idea certainly sounds intesting. I'd def. like some pics. good luck and make sure you have a very detailed log if you decide to try it. I expect you to post it here ;)
 
I agree in the difficulty of bringing them up. But also applaud ur enthusiasm to do it anyways. I'm very interested in your plans and would like to see how you would set it up and even how well the outcome is.
 
Red line Cleaner shrimp, dont they live a short time in FW? Breeding anything cool is hard, but i surely think is possible. I think is Opcn wants to do it lets encourage him. Stay in touch with Dr Roy, I will be watching this thread for sure.
 
unfortunately I won't have the room to do this for quite some time, at least a year, and I haven't got a breeding pair of mantids to start with.
 
Has Dr roy tryed to breed them?
If u lived in aus i could get you a male and female G Smithii in a second.
 
well if you succeedm it'll be a hallmark for home aquaria, so good luck.

fyi, Dr Roy has successfully breeded them though i couldn't tell you what species. I believe he managed G. chiragra but im not sure. Im pretty sure he said he wouldn't bother with peacocks for some reason or other.
 
Dr. Roy breed chiragra, and he wouldn't deal with peacocks because of the horribly long larval stage. Estimated at four months!
 
Getting a female to breed is usually not difficult if you have a male of the same size and species. Some species such as P. ciliata, G. smithii and O. scyllarus will mate at any time in the females reproductive cycle, so you just have to put them together for a few minutes and remove the male after they mate. Many gonodactylids mate guard and typically females will not mate until the ovaries are developed. You can tell this by looking at the cement glands on the ventral thorax. If they appear packed and very white, the female will probably mate. In these species you can put the male and female together. If they move into a cavity together, they will stay together for a few days until the female lays her eggs. At this time the male leaves. It is a good idea to remove him at this time.

If females mate, they can store sperm for up to several months - as long as they do not molt. The sperm are stored in a special structure that is shed when the female molts. She will then have to re-mate to lay fertile eggs.

Once the eggs are laid and the female molds the mass into a disk or ball, she will carry them in her maxillipeds until hatching. The mass can be put down, but generally the mass must be cleaned and aerated by the female if they are going to hatch. The length of time that it takes to hatching varies by species and seems to be a function of size and temperature. The fact is that we don't know how long the eggs of most species take to hatch, but it can be as short as 11-12 days for Pullosquilla and as long as 6 several months for some temperate water species. Most gonodactylids take about 3 weeks.

At this point, the larvae my leave the burrow and enter the plankton or remain with the mother for a bit longer. Gonodactylids typical remain with the mother for a week, burrowing lysiosquillids and squillids leave immediately on hatching. In all cases that I'm aware of, the larvae become photopositive when they are ready to enter the plankton and swim up into the water column. To our knowledge, all species of stomatopods have planktonic larvae. The problems associated with raising them are many.

1. They are planktonic. This means that either you need a Kriesel tank or you have to change the water at least every other day.

2. They are cannibalistic. That means one per container or a large , effective Kriesel.

3. They only take live food. Initially that means rotifers, nutrient soaked brine nauplii, etc. As they get larger, you can use larger, adult brine (again with supplements). The larvae will not feed on demersal prey, so amphipods are out.

4. The larvae are subject to various algal and fungal infections as well as unknown bacterial and/or viral disease. Some people who have successfully reared larvae included antibiotics (I did not.)

5. Long larval period and large size. Gonodactylids and some species such as Pullosquilla settle out at 7-11 mm, but some species such as P. ciliata (22 mm), Lysiosquillina (20+ mm and Odontodactulus (25 mm) remain in the plankton for months. This means a lot of work.

6. The cues for settling are not well understood. During some attempts to rear larvae, they remained planktonic and would not settle even though they appeared large enough. We see the same thing sometimes in the field. I've seen N. oerstedii settle at 6 mm and at other times not recruit until they were 11mm.

7 Once you have postlarvae, for most species it will be 1-2 years until they breed and for something like Lysiosquillina it could be 5 years or more.

It isn't easy and I doubt that it will ever be cost effective. That said, Manning reared N. oerstedii, Morgan and Goy reared N. wennerae and I have reared N. bredini and N. chiragra.

Roy
 
There really isn't anything else that can be added after that, except that there really isn't a market for them. While there are a few of us nut jobs that like to keep them, most people see them as a threat. As of right now what comes in as hitchhikers provides more supply than there is demand.
 
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