SOMEthinsFISHY
New member
tom needs a nap !!
So you got a new fish tank Newbie
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
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RayLovesNemos
New member
aww man that sucks....i guess i will have to get whatever suits my tank thanks again waterkeeper u ROCK
SOMEthinsFISHY said:
Well it's Reveille now! Get out of that sack we got work to do!!!
First off Ray. Don't get discouraged, you can have a great tank. Concentrate on inverts rather than fish and you be rewarded. Although you already have fish that would out compete them for food a dedicated seahorse reef is always nice for a smaller tank.
In a tank your size you can have 4-6 of the full sized ponies or over a dozen dwarfs. Fish and seahorses don't mix well but if you set up a refugium you can sneak in a Mandarin or Dragonet.
Now where in the heck was I? Oh yea, pH.
As I pointed out we try to maintain our tanks in a very limited pH range. People often say, "why so small a range?" Well without being too technical, if our pH falls from 8.3 to 8.0 the amount of hydrogen ions doubles; that is the water become twice as acidic. Human blood has a normal pH of 7.45 Ã"šÃ‚±0.1. If our blood pH drops below 7 or climbs above 7.6 we will die. Life only exists in a fairly narrow pH range. That is why pH control of our marine tank is so critical.
Hey YOU back there! Stop waiving around that package of pH test strips like your some kinda hero! You don't know nothin numbnuts!
How we test pH is often one of the most overlooked factors in setting up a new tank. Now during the cycle I said let it ride. It is almost impossible to maintain pH when there is rotting stuff giving off noxious components into the water. That is another reason I push to do water changes during the cycle. They help somewhat in controlling the pH. Once through the cycle one needs to take things in hand.
Enter the pH test kit. They come in all makes and sizes, from ones that use colored solutions to the ever popular test strips. All these kits rely on the fact that certain dyes will change color when the pH changes. If you like red cabbage you know that if you really want RED cabbage you need to add some vinegar into the water to make it acidic. If the water is as alkaline as seawater you end up with greenish yellow "red" cabbage. That is how these color tests work to determine pH.
Of course the dyes used are a little more precise than red cabbage juice but the principle is just the same and there lies the problem. The dyes tends to change color over a pH range rather than a one spot on the pH scale. It might change from blue to pink but may start turning pink at pH X and not be true pink till pH Y. Kit manufactures have somewhat solved part of the problem by using dye mixes. Here two or more dyes are used. The ranges overlap so that the color at X pH is more precise than you would get with a single dye.
Still the best kits have an overall error of about 0.2 pH units. Not bad except we are trying to maintain or tank pH between 0.3 units. Also these dyes age and exposure to heat, light and air all degrade their performance. Also, many people are just not to good at matching up colors in a solution or strip with those on the comparison chart.
Sure use a pH test kit during the cycle where pH is not critical but when stocking that tank find a better way.
Next time--A Better Way.
RayLovesNemos
New member
Thanks a lot water keeper. I will look into this. Problem is i right now i have no room for a Refugium or a sump. The tank is set up on a computer desk with no stand. Everything has to be a hang off the back unless i change my mind and decide to get a cover/stand. So everything i get has to be into the tank. I wanted a mandarin cause of the color but i heard they are very picky eaters and very difficult to take care of. Planning on geting some simple coral as i get better like polyps and when my lighting is upgraded move onto annemones. Thanks again Waterkeeper
Your welcome Ray.
Well while I'm here let's talk more about how we measure pH. If color matching test kits are not what we need then what?
Well back in 1906 a glass electrode was made that could measure hydrogen ions (hydronium ions for your purists) and in 1928 an electronic meter using this glass electrode was produced(well it used vacuum tubes). Now without getting too technical a pH meter is just a millivolt meter. Two electrodes, the glass, hydrogen sensing electrode and a reference electrode are attached to this millivolt meter. When placed in a solution the meter measures around 59 millivolts for every increase of 1 pH unit.
Following me so far? pH 7, neutral pH, is the "magic" spot to the meter. Called the isopotential point the meter measures zero millivolts at this pH. If we dip it in a solution that we know has a pH of 6 the meter will now measure +59.2 millivolts. Likewise if we dip in in a solution that has a pH of exactly 8 the meter will measure -59.2 millivolts. At pH 9 it would measure -118.4 millivolts and would go up by 59.2 millivolts for each addition gain of 1 pH unit. The entire pH scale from 0 to 14 goes from +414 millivolt to -414 millivolts.
I Heard That! Put down that cell phone and cancel that order for pH test strips. I'm almost done with the theory and the rest is easy.
Only one little complication in this whole procedure. That millivolt change of 59.2 is only good at 25 degrees Celsius. At 10 degrees it is only 56.2 millivolts and at 50 degrees it is 64.1 millivolts.
Modern science to the rescue. pH meter in use today have a temperature probe built in. The meter will automatically correct for the temperature so that problem becomes mute.
In the original pH meters there were two separate electrodes. In many of todays meters they are combined into a single electrode. The glass sensing electrode has a bulb of special glass that reacts to the change in pH (you don't even want to know how that occurs)
The other electrode is the reference electrode and it provides a stable reference current to the meter. The reference electrode usually has a hole in its side where one adds a filling solution. When filled with this solution there is a porous plug at its tip that allows this filling solution to slowly leak into the sample being measured. This allows for a complete circuit between the electrodes, solution being measured and the meter. Some reference electrodes now use a gel material as the filling solution and therefore do not require the periodic addition of new filling solution. The drawback is that they are much slower to respond than their liquid filled counterparts. As I said earlier it is not uncommon these days for the two electrodes to be combined into a single electrode.
Well all the theory is out of the way. Next I tell you how to properly use a pH meter, which will be a lot easier than this last discussion. Scout's honor.
Well while I'm here let's talk more about how we measure pH. If color matching test kits are not what we need then what?
Well back in 1906 a glass electrode was made that could measure hydrogen ions (hydronium ions for your purists) and in 1928 an electronic meter using this glass electrode was produced(well it used vacuum tubes). Now without getting too technical a pH meter is just a millivolt meter. Two electrodes, the glass, hydrogen sensing electrode and a reference electrode are attached to this millivolt meter. When placed in a solution the meter measures around 59 millivolts for every increase of 1 pH unit.
Following me so far? pH 7, neutral pH, is the "magic" spot to the meter. Called the isopotential point the meter measures zero millivolts at this pH. If we dip it in a solution that we know has a pH of 6 the meter will now measure +59.2 millivolts. Likewise if we dip in in a solution that has a pH of exactly 8 the meter will measure -59.2 millivolts. At pH 9 it would measure -118.4 millivolts and would go up by 59.2 millivolts for each addition gain of 1 pH unit. The entire pH scale from 0 to 14 goes from +414 millivolt to -414 millivolts.
I Heard That! Put down that cell phone and cancel that order for pH test strips. I'm almost done with the theory and the rest is easy.
Only one little complication in this whole procedure. That millivolt change of 59.2 is only good at 25 degrees Celsius. At 10 degrees it is only 56.2 millivolts and at 50 degrees it is 64.1 millivolts.
Modern science to the rescue. pH meter in use today have a temperature probe built in. The meter will automatically correct for the temperature so that problem becomes mute.
In the original pH meters there were two separate electrodes. In many of todays meters they are combined into a single electrode. The glass sensing electrode has a bulb of special glass that reacts to the change in pH (you don't even want to know how that occurs)
The other electrode is the reference electrode and it provides a stable reference current to the meter. The reference electrode usually has a hole in its side where one adds a filling solution. When filled with this solution there is a porous plug at its tip that allows this filling solution to slowly leak into the sample being measured. This allows for a complete circuit between the electrodes, solution being measured and the meter. Some reference electrodes now use a gel material as the filling solution and therefore do not require the periodic addition of new filling solution. The drawback is that they are much slower to respond than their liquid filled counterparts. As I said earlier it is not uncommon these days for the two electrodes to be combined into a single electrode.
Well all the theory is out of the way. Next I tell you how to properly use a pH meter, which will be a lot easier than this last discussion. Scout's honor.
SOMEthinsFISHY
New member
tom keeps me informed and in stitches we love your humour water keeper !
:lol:
If my explanation of how a pH meter works was funny you have a strange sense of humor.
Whew, I'm glad that's over with.:worried2:
If my explanation of how a pH meter works was funny you have a strange sense of humor.
Whew, I'm glad that's over with.:worried2:
SOMEthinsFISHY
New member
no not the ph thingy just you have a great sense of humour one of the better mods i would say !
BUT they do tell me i am strange !
BUT they do tell me i am strange !
Time for a Pop Quiz.
1--In the Nernst equation, E=Er + (2.303RT/nF) log(unknown [H+]/internal [H+]), the value F stands for what constant?
2--How about R?
3--Who the hell is Nernst anyway and does he have a reef tank?
Ok, that was some pretty heavy stuff yesterday but
If you think I'm going to Mommy Coddle you all the way through a new reef you've got me WRONG NEWBIE
To get accurate pH reading using a meter we need a few things.
1--In the Nernst equation, E=Er + (2.303RT/nF) log(unknown [H+]/internal [H+]), the value F stands for what constant?
2--How about R?
3--Who the hell is Nernst anyway and does he have a reef tank?
Ok, that was some pretty heavy stuff yesterday but
If you think I'm going to Mommy Coddle you all the way through a new reef you've got me WRONG NEWBIE
To get accurate pH reading using a meter we need a few things.
- Well, a meter is a big help.
- Either a pair of electrodes or a combination electrode
- An Automated Temperature Compensation probe (ATC) if required by your meter.
- Reference electrode filling solution if your reference electrode uses it.
- Some buffer solutions usually 4, 7 and 10 pH will do.
- Some small beakers or other containers to fill with buffer.
- A squirt bottle to hold RO/DI to rinse the probe.
[/list=1]
pH meter come in all shapes and sizes. The most common ones used by most hobbyists are the pH "stick" type meters. Sometimes they are called a pH "pen". No matter these are small hand-held meters usually with a single combination electrode and a digital meter. The may or may not have an ATC.
Next up on the scale are the compact pH meters. These are somewhat larger, about the size of a handheld voltmeter, and usually have more options. They also normally have replaceable electrodes.
And finally a full blown lab grade benchtop meter.
As you probably have guessed the price of these meter is directly proportional to their size and complexity. A pH stick usually only measures pH and offers only two point calibration. The handhelds measure pH and usually temperature (a few also do TDS a big +). They may offer multipoint calibration. The lab meters have all this plus autocalibration features and most will handle what are known a Ion Selective Electrodes (ISE) which allow one to use an electrode to measure things like ammonia or carbon dioxide- Note big $$$
Looking around e-Bay I see stick meters going for as low a $8.00 used. Watch that however as these small meter have a limited lifetime. Most, if not all, have permanently attached electrodes. Over time the electrodes wear out or, if it uses a gel filled reference electrode, the junction clogs up. Most of these only have a useful life of 6 months to a year. A cheap used one probably is not a bargain. A new one is a much better choice and they are not that expensive. The main drawback is that the simple meter in these all in one units is subject to all sorts of things that will effect their overall accuracy.
To me a better buy is the hand-held meter. When the electrodes wear out, which they will, you can replace them. They sport better electronics and therefore better accuracy that their smaller cousins.
Finally there are the research meters for those with big wallets. Well there are some bargains over at e-Bay but I think the people that sell them have never been in a lab as they all say, "sold as is-display lights up". Not a very comforting guarantee. These meters serve their purpose but probably are only a little more accurate that the hand-helds.
Well that is enough for today- To be continued.
Waterkeeper,
I FINALLY got my 125 Gal Tank. Now the fun begins! :bounce2:
My first problem (one of MANY I know I will have). I expected the tank to have two cross supports and it turns out that PERFECTO makes their tank with only one cross support. I was lookinig at an ALL GLASS at the LFS but ended up ordering a PERFECTO. :wildone:
I was planning on using 3 250W MH (one per opening if the tank would have had three opening) but now I only have two opening. Should I go for 4 250W MH (two per opening) or 2 MH per opening is enough?. I will have 2 140W VHOs Super Actinic 60" no matter the amount of MH I decide to use. I got the VHOs to complement the MHs. I am not sure if 4 250W MH will be overkill or if two are enough.
3 MHs would have been perfect but the #@#$%@ cross support will block almost all the light if I try to put the 3 MHs. The tank measures 72 L x 18 W x 22 H
What do you think?
As always, Thanks for your help !!!! :thumbsup:
I FINALLY got my 125 Gal Tank. Now the fun begins! :bounce2:
My first problem (one of MANY I know I will have). I expected the tank to have two cross supports and it turns out that PERFECTO makes their tank with only one cross support. I was lookinig at an ALL GLASS at the LFS but ended up ordering a PERFECTO. :wildone:
I was planning on using 3 250W MH (one per opening if the tank would have had three opening) but now I only have two opening. Should I go for 4 250W MH (two per opening) or 2 MH per opening is enough?. I will have 2 140W VHOs Super Actinic 60" no matter the amount of MH I decide to use. I got the VHOs to complement the MHs. I am not sure if 4 250W MH will be overkill or if two are enough.
3 MHs would have been perfect but the #@#$%@ cross support will block almost all the light if I try to put the 3 MHs. The tank measures 72 L x 18 W x 22 H
What do you think?
As always, Thanks for your help !!!! :thumbsup:
Hmmm a predicament.
A lot here depends on what you plan to keep. If your want a clam the 4-250's might be in order but probably overkill with a 22" tank. If you sights are on less light demanding charges then why not go with 4-175's. That would give you a total, counting the VHO, of 980 watts, which with a 22 inch high tank should cover just about any coral's requirements. It will also save on the electric bill.
Congrats on getting your tank.
A lot here depends on what you plan to keep. If your want a clam the 4-250's might be in order but probably overkill with a 22" tank. If you sights are on less light demanding charges then why not go with 4-175's. That would give you a total, counting the VHO, of 980 watts, which with a 22 inch high tank should cover just about any coral's requirements. It will also save on the electric bill.
Congrats on getting your tank.
35gallonhex
New member
i have only read the first page and im more informed then ive ever been
hey it seems you are not too far from where i am!!
hey it seems you are not too far from where i am!!
Matty
Very good solution. Just remember to have the tank empty before replacing the cross brace or you may have a flood and ruined tank.
Hex,
I'm not too far aroung 30 miles.
I've been kinda busy fielding Hurricane Charlie aftermath questions today so I'll add to the pH thread on Monday.
Very good solution. Just remember to have the tank empty before replacing the cross brace or you may have a flood and ruined tank.
Hex,
I'm not too far aroung 30 miles.
I've been kinda busy fielding Hurricane Charlie aftermath questions today so I'll add to the pH thread on Monday.
mattydub,
Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately it is a brand new tank and if I don't mess with it, it comes with a 20 years warranty. So, cutting is a no no, but thanks for the input.
Waterkeeper,
I am almost 100% sure I will get clams on my tank. My only concern is, if 4 MH would be overkill and might t and turn the rocks white and the fish blind!
I read on an issue of Reefkeeping Magazine titled "Lighting the Reef Tank: A Primer for Beginners" by Doug Wojtczak that suggests 175W MH for tanks 20 inch or less and 250W MH for tanks over 20 inches. Yup!, I have been doing my reading for months! :reading:
Also, I am not sure if MarineDepot will exchange what I bought like 3 months ago. What can I say, I had to hurry up and buy everything before my wife would realized what she did by giving me the OK on the fish tank.
I just wanted to hear an expert's opinion on choosing between 2 250 MH or 4 250W MH and since I could not find that expert, I decided to ask you. Just kidding, I have been reading long enough to know that you REALLY know this suff. You are DA MAN! :thumbsup:
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately it is a brand new tank and if I don't mess with it, it comes with a 20 years warranty. So, cutting is a no no, but thanks for the input.
Waterkeeper,
I am almost 100% sure I will get clams on my tank. My only concern is, if 4 MH would be overkill and might t and turn the rocks white and the fish blind!
I read on an issue of Reefkeeping Magazine titled "Lighting the Reef Tank: A Primer for Beginners" by Doug Wojtczak that suggests 175W MH for tanks 20 inch or less and 250W MH for tanks over 20 inches. Yup!, I have been doing my reading for months! :reading:
Also, I am not sure if MarineDepot will exchange what I bought like 3 months ago. What can I say, I had to hurry up and buy everything before my wife would realized what she did by giving me the OK on the fish tank.
I just wanted to hear an expert's opinion on choosing between 2 250 MH or 4 250W MH and since I could not find that expert, I decided to ask you. Just kidding, I have been reading long enough to know that you REALLY know this suff. You are DA MAN! :thumbsup:
Thanks for your help!
SOMEthinsFISHY
New member
TOM u haveta b glad you are not 30 miles from me i would bug ya 2 much !!
Holy Smokes. Did I start a run on pH meters. Just left eBay and last week there were over 4 pages of pH meters/testers available; today it is down to 13 units. If I did I'm glad because it is an important tool for any serious reefer.
I did notice that some of the Hanna "stick" meters allow you to replace the electrodes when they wear out. This is nice as the electrodes don't last forever and, since WK is careless, they often get broken.
I want to talk a little about how to condition new electrodes when you first get a meter. You'll get poor results if you take it out of the box and start using it. Units that have either combination or two separate electrodes may require a filling solution to be added to the reference electrode. Hopefully the reference electrode uses a plain potassium chloride filling solution. Some reference electrodes use a potassium chloride solution Saturated with silver chloride, Warning-Silver chloride is Hazardous to your Tank. It is more toxic than copper to many organisms and should never be allowed to enter your tanks water. If you don't know whether or not yours contains silver never measure in the tank but use a separate container and throw the tested water away. That is a pretty good idea when doing any pH test regardless of the type of filling solution.
I do see a Smart pH controller by Milwaukee Instruments for sale. If you do want on-line pH you want one like this. It uses what is known as a double junction electrode. It has a silver chloride inner electrode which is placed inside a plain potassium chloride outer electrode. This keeps silver from entering your tank.
Alright back to business. The first thing you do before filling the electrode is give it a few shakes, like you would an old clinical thermometer. This joins any separations in the internal filling solutions. You need to remove the plug or band off the fill hole. Using the filling solution recommended by the manufacturer fill the electrode to just below the hole. Now place the electrode in the holder and let it sit in the air for about an hour. After an hour you should see some salt forming at the end of the electrode at the porous junction. If not soak it in some warm, not hot, water for an hour and try again. You need to get the juices flowing through the junction to get stable readings. Leave the fill hole uncovered during the conditioning process.
Once you get flow take both, if your meter uses two electrodes and soak them in pH 4 buffer overnight. This conditions the electrodes and makes them ready for initial calibration. If you don't have a pH 4 buffer then you can use pH 7. I like the pH 4 for electrode storage as is helps dissolve any carbonate film that sometimes forms on the glass electrode and makes the response time sluggish. There are also "special" storage solutions that are nothing more than pH 4 or 7 buffer with some added potassium chloride. If you wish you can add a few drops of the reference electrode filling solution to the pH 4/7 buffer and have about the same stuff as the "special",and expensive, storage solution. The one thing you don't want to do is soak the electrode in RO/DI water. This leaches material from the glass bulb of the measuring electrode and will shorten its life.
Next time Calibration.
I did notice that some of the Hanna "stick" meters allow you to replace the electrodes when they wear out. This is nice as the electrodes don't last forever and, since WK is careless, they often get broken.
I want to talk a little about how to condition new electrodes when you first get a meter. You'll get poor results if you take it out of the box and start using it. Units that have either combination or two separate electrodes may require a filling solution to be added to the reference electrode. Hopefully the reference electrode uses a plain potassium chloride filling solution. Some reference electrodes use a potassium chloride solution Saturated with silver chloride, Warning-Silver chloride is Hazardous to your Tank. It is more toxic than copper to many organisms and should never be allowed to enter your tanks water. If you don't know whether or not yours contains silver never measure in the tank but use a separate container and throw the tested water away. That is a pretty good idea when doing any pH test regardless of the type of filling solution.
I do see a Smart pH controller by Milwaukee Instruments for sale. If you do want on-line pH you want one like this. It uses what is known as a double junction electrode. It has a silver chloride inner electrode which is placed inside a plain potassium chloride outer electrode. This keeps silver from entering your tank.
Alright back to business. The first thing you do before filling the electrode is give it a few shakes, like you would an old clinical thermometer. This joins any separations in the internal filling solutions. You need to remove the plug or band off the fill hole. Using the filling solution recommended by the manufacturer fill the electrode to just below the hole. Now place the electrode in the holder and let it sit in the air for about an hour. After an hour you should see some salt forming at the end of the electrode at the porous junction. If not soak it in some warm, not hot, water for an hour and try again. You need to get the juices flowing through the junction to get stable readings. Leave the fill hole uncovered during the conditioning process.
Once you get flow take both, if your meter uses two electrodes and soak them in pH 4 buffer overnight. This conditions the electrodes and makes them ready for initial calibration. If you don't have a pH 4 buffer then you can use pH 7. I like the pH 4 for electrode storage as is helps dissolve any carbonate film that sometimes forms on the glass electrode and makes the response time sluggish. There are also "special" storage solutions that are nothing more than pH 4 or 7 buffer with some added potassium chloride. If you wish you can add a few drops of the reference electrode filling solution to the pH 4/7 buffer and have about the same stuff as the "special",and expensive, storage solution. The one thing you don't want to do is soak the electrode in RO/DI water. This leaches material from the glass bulb of the measuring electrode and will shorten its life.
Next time Calibration.
Handy,
Sorry I missed your question. Well, I guess I's go with the 4x250's. That should give you enough light to handle about anything. If it is too much you can run something like a 2-4 hour all lights on then cut back to 2 for the remaining 4-6 hours. Just be sure to acclimate new corals when adding them to a tank this bright.
Alright Troopers, At Ease and Soak 'Em if you got 'Em
I was taking about those new electrodes you've been soaking and are now ready to calibrate. The first thing we need to do is check the level on that reference electrode filling solution. If you've been soaking them with the fill hole uncovered, which you should do with a new electrode, the level should have dropped. You want to fill the electrode back up so the level is just below the fill hole. In normal use you'll cover the fill hole when the electrode is not in use and the level should not drop that much. Here we were trying to get good flow through the porous junction so we left in uncovered. It is important that you always uncover the fill hole before calibrating or measuring with the electrode. If the hole remains covered you'll not get flow of electrolyte through the junction and the meter will be difficult to calibrate and reading will drift all over the place.
Another thing is you always need to keep the level of the reference electrode's filling solution higher than the surface of the buffer or sample; about a Ã"šÃ‚¼ inch should do. If the level is lower than the samples then sample will flow into the electrodes filling solution instead of the other way around. This contaminates the filling solution and can, in time, ruin the electrode.
Now for our calibration we will do a two point calibration using pH 7 and 10 buffers. I probably should explain what I mean by buffers as you newbies get so easily confused.
When we talk about our tank's pH we say you need X amount of alkalinity to maintain a stable pH. Alkalinity is a buffer in that it resists a change in pH. pH buffers are similar. They are standard that are formulated to produce a certain constant pH value. You can get them in all sorts of values but for a reef tank pH 4, 7, and 10 should do. The pH 4 is to store the electrodes when you're not using it and the pH 7 and 10 are the ones we use to calibrate the meter. If you have other values make sure that you have at least a 7 and one higher than pH 8.5 for reef tank pH measurements. We want to bracket the pH level of our tank with two buffers during calibration. Today some meters don't need to be calibrated in any specific fashion but less sophisticated meters may need to always have a pH 7 buffer used first. Think of pH 7 as a "zero" point that the other pH's depend upon for a reference.
You want a squeeze bottle full of RO/DI water to wash the electrodes. Remove the electrode from the pH 4 that it was soaking in and rinse well with RO/DI. Now there is one thing that you need to do after rinsing. Many pH meters have a ATC (automatic temperature compensator) this takes care of the difference in electrode response at different temperatures. Other that don't have this will have a manual temperature dial. You need to set those type meters to the temperature that your buffers are at, usually room temp of 68-75Ã"šÃ‚º F (20-24.9Ã"šÃ‚º C). Next take a small amount of the pH 7 buffer and rinse the electrodes. Note: I save the used buffer from my last calibration to rinse electrodes; it saves a few $. Then fill a sample cup, those little medicine cups that come on a bottle of Nyguil work well, with fresh pH 7 buffer. Place the electrodes in the pH 7 buffer and gently swirl the buffer around the electrode for 15 seconds or so. Now let the meter reach a stable reading. Most electrodes claim a response time of 30 seconds to reach 90% of the true pH value. You'll probably find it takes two to three minutes for the reading to really lock in. Now here is the hard part to explain, as there are so many meters out there. The real fancy ones will sense a stable reading and "know" the pH of the buffer they are in. They automatically set the calibration point and ask for the next buffer. Since those meters are in the $1500 or up range I assume yours doesn't do this. The digital meter allow you to enter the pH value via the keypad and then hit a calibrate/enter button to enter that value. Some use a dial or even a set screw to set the value. Whichever type you want to enter pH 7.0. Note: Your buffer may have a value slightly different than 7, like 7.01. Often there is a table on the buffer bottle that has the true pH value at different temperatures. The temperature compensator on the pH meter only corrects for the change in electrode response not the chemical change in the buffer as temperatures vary. The table on the bottle give that chemical's temperate difference, pH correction for that buffer. Use that value to set the meter.
Once you have the meter set for pH 7, rinse the electrode, first with RO/DI then with some pH 10 buffer. Always use a dedicated cup for the different buffers and never mix them. Some buffers are color coded with pH 4 being red, 7 yellow and pH 10 blue. Place the electrodes in some fresh pH 10 buffer and follow the steps given for the pH 7 buffer.
During the pH 10 calibration you may have to make a "slope" adjustment on the very simple meters. There will be a slope knob or set screw on the meter. You turn this until the readout matches the pH value from the temperature correction table on the buffer bottle. The fancier meter may only need to to enter the value using the keypad. Follow the directions for your meter. Once done you're ready to use the meter.
In most cases your tank is going to be warmer than the room temperature that you calibrated at. With an ATC that is no problem as it will adjust the meter for you. If yours is manual then set the meter control to the temperature of your tank. Some people allow the tank sample to cool but this gives a poor picture of the actual tanks pH as the pH will change as the sample sits. I like to take the sample and measure it at once. Take about 3 portions of tank samples and rinse the electrode well. You need to rinse a bit more here as your tank's buffering capability is much less than the standard buffers when you calibrated. A little carryover of the buffer into your sample will throw things way off. This also helps bring the electrode up to the tank's temperature. Take a final sample a swirl gently. After the reading becomes stable you have your tank's pH. Rinse the electrodes cover the fill hole and return it to the pH 4 storage solution.
Well I'm late for a lunch appointment so I'll finish up latter.
Sorry about all the typo's in this post. I was getting the evil eye at 12:30 today and didn't proof read it. I think I fixed most mistakes this evening.
Sorry I missed your question. Well, I guess I's go with the 4x250's. That should give you enough light to handle about anything. If it is too much you can run something like a 2-4 hour all lights on then cut back to 2 for the remaining 4-6 hours. Just be sure to acclimate new corals when adding them to a tank this bright.
Alright Troopers, At Ease and Soak 'Em if you got 'Em
I was taking about those new electrodes you've been soaking and are now ready to calibrate. The first thing we need to do is check the level on that reference electrode filling solution. If you've been soaking them with the fill hole uncovered, which you should do with a new electrode, the level should have dropped. You want to fill the electrode back up so the level is just below the fill hole. In normal use you'll cover the fill hole when the electrode is not in use and the level should not drop that much. Here we were trying to get good flow through the porous junction so we left in uncovered. It is important that you always uncover the fill hole before calibrating or measuring with the electrode. If the hole remains covered you'll not get flow of electrolyte through the junction and the meter will be difficult to calibrate and reading will drift all over the place.
Another thing is you always need to keep the level of the reference electrode's filling solution higher than the surface of the buffer or sample; about a Ã"šÃ‚¼ inch should do. If the level is lower than the samples then sample will flow into the electrodes filling solution instead of the other way around. This contaminates the filling solution and can, in time, ruin the electrode.
Now for our calibration we will do a two point calibration using pH 7 and 10 buffers. I probably should explain what I mean by buffers as you newbies get so easily confused.
When we talk about our tank's pH we say you need X amount of alkalinity to maintain a stable pH. Alkalinity is a buffer in that it resists a change in pH. pH buffers are similar. They are standard that are formulated to produce a certain constant pH value. You can get them in all sorts of values but for a reef tank pH 4, 7, and 10 should do. The pH 4 is to store the electrodes when you're not using it and the pH 7 and 10 are the ones we use to calibrate the meter. If you have other values make sure that you have at least a 7 and one higher than pH 8.5 for reef tank pH measurements. We want to bracket the pH level of our tank with two buffers during calibration. Today some meters don't need to be calibrated in any specific fashion but less sophisticated meters may need to always have a pH 7 buffer used first. Think of pH 7 as a "zero" point that the other pH's depend upon for a reference.
You want a squeeze bottle full of RO/DI water to wash the electrodes. Remove the electrode from the pH 4 that it was soaking in and rinse well with RO/DI. Now there is one thing that you need to do after rinsing. Many pH meters have a ATC (automatic temperature compensator) this takes care of the difference in electrode response at different temperatures. Other that don't have this will have a manual temperature dial. You need to set those type meters to the temperature that your buffers are at, usually room temp of 68-75Ã"šÃ‚º F (20-24.9Ã"šÃ‚º C). Next take a small amount of the pH 7 buffer and rinse the electrodes. Note: I save the used buffer from my last calibration to rinse electrodes; it saves a few $. Then fill a sample cup, those little medicine cups that come on a bottle of Nyguil work well, with fresh pH 7 buffer. Place the electrodes in the pH 7 buffer and gently swirl the buffer around the electrode for 15 seconds or so. Now let the meter reach a stable reading. Most electrodes claim a response time of 30 seconds to reach 90% of the true pH value. You'll probably find it takes two to three minutes for the reading to really lock in. Now here is the hard part to explain, as there are so many meters out there. The real fancy ones will sense a stable reading and "know" the pH of the buffer they are in. They automatically set the calibration point and ask for the next buffer. Since those meters are in the $1500 or up range I assume yours doesn't do this. The digital meter allow you to enter the pH value via the keypad and then hit a calibrate/enter button to enter that value. Some use a dial or even a set screw to set the value. Whichever type you want to enter pH 7.0. Note: Your buffer may have a value slightly different than 7, like 7.01. Often there is a table on the buffer bottle that has the true pH value at different temperatures. The temperature compensator on the pH meter only corrects for the change in electrode response not the chemical change in the buffer as temperatures vary. The table on the bottle give that chemical's temperate difference, pH correction for that buffer. Use that value to set the meter.
Once you have the meter set for pH 7, rinse the electrode, first with RO/DI then with some pH 10 buffer. Always use a dedicated cup for the different buffers and never mix them. Some buffers are color coded with pH 4 being red, 7 yellow and pH 10 blue. Place the electrodes in some fresh pH 10 buffer and follow the steps given for the pH 7 buffer.
During the pH 10 calibration you may have to make a "slope" adjustment on the very simple meters. There will be a slope knob or set screw on the meter. You turn this until the readout matches the pH value from the temperature correction table on the buffer bottle. The fancier meter may only need to to enter the value using the keypad. Follow the directions for your meter. Once done you're ready to use the meter.
In most cases your tank is going to be warmer than the room temperature that you calibrated at. With an ATC that is no problem as it will adjust the meter for you. If yours is manual then set the meter control to the temperature of your tank. Some people allow the tank sample to cool but this gives a poor picture of the actual tanks pH as the pH will change as the sample sits. I like to take the sample and measure it at once. Take about 3 portions of tank samples and rinse the electrode well. You need to rinse a bit more here as your tank's buffering capability is much less than the standard buffers when you calibrated. A little carryover of the buffer into your sample will throw things way off. This also helps bring the electrode up to the tank's temperature. Take a final sample a swirl gently. After the reading becomes stable you have your tank's pH. Rinse the electrodes cover the fill hole and return it to the pH 4 storage solution.
Well I'm late for a lunch appointment so I'll finish up latter.
Sorry about all the typo's in this post. I was getting the evil eye at 12:30 today and didn't proof read it. I think I fixed most mistakes this evening.
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