So you got a new fish tank Newbie
- Thread starter WaterKeeper
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Radicaljbr
Active member
:uzi: -----------------:sad2:
He now swims with the fishes!!!:bum:
:fish2: :fish1: :fish2::blown:
:beer:
He now swims with the fishes!!!:bum:
:fish2: :fish1: :fish2::blown:
:beer:
Lucca, as you can probably tell by his picture, was really choked up about helping with this project. 
Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m making a list and checkin it twice; gonna find out whoââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s naughty or nice.
A naughty fish is not something a reefer wants in their tank. Nothing can ruin your whole day more than having a new fish that, when added to a tank, promptly rips off the fins of its tank mates. For that reason, when I publish my list of beginnerââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s fish next week, I will try to guide you to, not only fish that are reef safe, but fish safe and wonââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t attack everything that moves in your tank.
Before I put the list up there are a few things we need to get straight. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t care if you have been keeping FW tropical fish since the continents where all joined together. There is a big difference in stocking a reef tank compared to a Cichlid tank.
The main reason for this is the ocean and its reef areas are huge. FW tropical fish live in rivers and streams and are usually in close quarters with their neighbors. Over time some truces have evolved and non-aggression pacts signed in the FW environment. With the large area of the reef it is often easier to move to a new location than fight for an established territory. Some SW fish stake out a territory and will defend it to the death. Other saltwater fish respect that combative spirit and find other accommodations when faced with such aggression. This means adding a peaceful SW fish to the confines of a small tank filled with aggressive fish is pretty much dooming that fish from the beginning.
Another thing about the ocean is there is a lot of water out there and the chemical composition does not change very much from day to day or year to year. A big rainstorm produces major changes in the water quality of a river. The fish that inhabit such an environment have adapted to these changes. Some, like the killifishes, live in no more than puddles. Fighting, and other labyrinth fish, can live in waters where dissolved oxygen content may approach zero. In the world of SW major changes in water quality rarely happen except in coastal areas and tide pools. For the most part the fish that inhabit the worldââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s seas will spend their entire lifetimes in water of consistent quality. Since FW fish are able to cope with changing, and often deteriorating, water quality conditions this aspect is not usually paramount on the hobbyists mind. SW fish are not designed to do this adaptation and suffer when water quality changes even to somewhat minor extent. Adding any SW fish to a tank in mid-cycle or into an overstocked aquarium is asking for failure. That 29 gallon with 30 FW fish in it is doomed if the same fish are marine and kept under similar conditions.
One thing to always do with selecting SW fish is to learn all you can about the habits of that species. When I put the list up it will only have some general info about the care and habits of that fish. Gang, I am not an Icky Ologist and this thread is far to long already. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll point you in the general direction but you will want to do a search on any fish that you may choose. When searching use the Latin name if at all possible. The distribution of reef fish is worldwide and often the same fish has a different common name depending on geographical location. Try to learn about its size, temperament, habitat, feeding habits, social habits (how it gets along with its own kind) and overall activity before making a purchase. Having a fish that normally swims for miles each day is a poor choice for adding to a 20 gallon tank.
What do you mean youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re scared, Newbie? Itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s only a trip to the LFS (Local Fish Store) not crossing a minefield!
If you do a little research on the fish you want you will be better armed when you go to the LFS, but an Uzi helps at some locations. :uzi: If you are in a big city you can shop around and see what is out there. If the nearest ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œGolden Archesââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ is half a days journey away you may need to do your shopping on-line. If you are lucky enough to have at least one LFS in your area then a trip there is always a good choice. True, prices at the LFS are usually higher than the on-line shops but you do get to see what you are buying. When going to the LFS you want to be observant and take names and numbers. That is, ask about any fish you plan to purchase.
A good list of questions is always--
A naughty fish is not something a reefer wants in their tank. Nothing can ruin your whole day more than having a new fish that, when added to a tank, promptly rips off the fins of its tank mates. For that reason, when I publish my list of beginnerââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s fish next week, I will try to guide you to, not only fish that are reef safe, but fish safe and wonââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t attack everything that moves in your tank.
Before I put the list up there are a few things we need to get straight. I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t care if you have been keeping FW tropical fish since the continents where all joined together. There is a big difference in stocking a reef tank compared to a Cichlid tank.
The main reason for this is the ocean and its reef areas are huge. FW tropical fish live in rivers and streams and are usually in close quarters with their neighbors. Over time some truces have evolved and non-aggression pacts signed in the FW environment. With the large area of the reef it is often easier to move to a new location than fight for an established territory. Some SW fish stake out a territory and will defend it to the death. Other saltwater fish respect that combative spirit and find other accommodations when faced with such aggression. This means adding a peaceful SW fish to the confines of a small tank filled with aggressive fish is pretty much dooming that fish from the beginning.
Another thing about the ocean is there is a lot of water out there and the chemical composition does not change very much from day to day or year to year. A big rainstorm produces major changes in the water quality of a river. The fish that inhabit such an environment have adapted to these changes. Some, like the killifishes, live in no more than puddles. Fighting, and other labyrinth fish, can live in waters where dissolved oxygen content may approach zero. In the world of SW major changes in water quality rarely happen except in coastal areas and tide pools. For the most part the fish that inhabit the worldââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s seas will spend their entire lifetimes in water of consistent quality. Since FW fish are able to cope with changing, and often deteriorating, water quality conditions this aspect is not usually paramount on the hobbyists mind. SW fish are not designed to do this adaptation and suffer when water quality changes even to somewhat minor extent. Adding any SW fish to a tank in mid-cycle or into an overstocked aquarium is asking for failure. That 29 gallon with 30 FW fish in it is doomed if the same fish are marine and kept under similar conditions.
One thing to always do with selecting SW fish is to learn all you can about the habits of that species. When I put the list up it will only have some general info about the care and habits of that fish. Gang, I am not an Icky Ologist and this thread is far to long already. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll point you in the general direction but you will want to do a search on any fish that you may choose. When searching use the Latin name if at all possible. The distribution of reef fish is worldwide and often the same fish has a different common name depending on geographical location. Try to learn about its size, temperament, habitat, feeding habits, social habits (how it gets along with its own kind) and overall activity before making a purchase. Having a fish that normally swims for miles each day is a poor choice for adding to a 20 gallon tank.
What do you mean youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re scared, Newbie? Itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s only a trip to the LFS (Local Fish Store) not crossing a minefield!
If you do a little research on the fish you want you will be better armed when you go to the LFS, but an Uzi helps at some locations. :uzi: If you are in a big city you can shop around and see what is out there. If the nearest ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œGolden Archesââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ is half a days journey away you may need to do your shopping on-line. If you are lucky enough to have at least one LFS in your area then a trip there is always a good choice. True, prices at the LFS are usually higher than the on-line shops but you do get to see what you are buying. When going to the LFS you want to be observant and take names and numbers. That is, ask about any fish you plan to purchase.
A good list of questions is always--
- Is it tank bred?
- If not, does your supplier offer only net caught fish?
- How long has it been in your shop?
- Whatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s your guarantee period?
- Have your tanks had any recent outbreaks of disease?
- What have you been feeding it?
[/list=*]
Observe the fishââ"šÂ¬Ã¢â‚¬Â
- Is it active? (if you learned in your research that it should be)
- Does it swim about the whole tank or remain near the surface?
- Is it rubbing against to rocks and sand?
- Is it harassing its tank mates or being harassed?
- Are its eyes bright?
- Are its fins in good shape and not frayed?
- Is its belly fairly full and not shrunken?
- Does it have any spots, sores or other signs of disease?
- Are its gills pink and not bright red (inflamed) or very pale?
- Does it eat? (and I mean really eat here, not just mouthing the food and spitting it out)?
[/list=*]
Well heck, that last point reminds me itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s almost time for chow. Weââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll talk about why one cannot keep flying fish in the Washington DC restricted airspace area unless you want Congress to go on permanent vacation next time.
kau_cinta_ku
New member
first off i want to thank waterkeeper for his great help in all the questions we have asked this is a great thread and i am reading it word for word for when i upgrade to my 75 reef tank from a 46 bow so i do things right the first time and i am sure i will have plenty of more questions when the time comes so again thanks a lot
Thanks Kau,
I no longer consider it a thread but somewhere between a mini-series and epic presentation.
I no longer consider it a thread but somewhere between a mini-series and epic presentation.
You know the more and more I work on the list the more and more I get the feeling a Newbie needs either to set-up a fuge or at least culture phyto and "pods" from the beginning. All the really great bottom dwellers that can be placed in a nano really should have a good supply of "pods" and the store bought cultures can run up the $$$ fairly quickly. You want to see Frank Marini's Home Culture Series for some easy tips on how to to that. I like Martin Moe's ciliate culture method where he uses V-8 as the food source. Heck, if you have been following the Vodka Dosing thread on the Reef Chemistry forum and add some garlic, Tobasco and pepper your cultures can have a great old time getting juiced on Bloody Marys. Bare bottoms (tanks of course), up.
Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll probably post the fish list on Tuesday or Wednesday but wanted to add a little more about getting your first fish. Often there is a feeling that since the tank is new, and without other fish, you can place the new fish directly in the main tank. That is fine and dandy if that fish is healthy but beware if that new fish comes down with a disease. All that pretty LR you recently cured cannot tolerate medication of any kind. That means, if your new fish becomes sick, you need to remove him from the main tank and medicate in a hospital tank.
You think catching a fast FW fish is hard? Try it with a SW fish that has a pile of LR in which to hide away. You most probably will end up having to remove the bulk of your rock to nab him. Although, it is easier now than when it has coral on in the tank it is still a pain.
The obvious solution is not to need a hospital tank by starting right out with a quarantine tank. You will need one for future additions anyway so getting one started at this point is a great idea. Once ammonia levels in the main tank are near zero you can set up the quarantine using tank water and some of the rock rubble that has been cured. Give it about a week to season and it should be ready for the first newcomer. You main tank will probably be up against the diatom-algae invasion at this point and, while you are waiting for it to abate, is a good time to get your first fish under quarantine. Four to six weeks later the algae should have diminished and the new fish will be ready for the display.
Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure I will also be asked about the gallon per inch rule that spills over from FW tanks. In SW that rule goes out the window. For a FO tank you might say 5 gallons per inch but if it is to be a reef tank you need to consider the waste products of the invertebrates. That throws in a major complication and makes using the gallon per inch rule useless. Most of the fish I will list are fairly small and reef safe. I had to keep that in mind as many newbies have small tanks and keeping a marine angel is out of the question.
Thinking of having a large FO tank with large angels? Here is a little trick that will tell you if your tank is able to house one. Look up the adult size then using a photo editor size a picture of the fish to that adult size. Cut it out and place it on the tank. If it looks too big and lacks swimming room then it is probably too big for your tank. You do need to take into consideration the fishââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s swimming habits in doing this. A large Tang or Angel needs a lot of maneuvering room. On the other hand, some pretty large eels can be kept in a smaller tank as they spend most of their time lurking in the LR.
Well, I hope you all have a great ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ÂFouthââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. I need to go down to the basement and see what fireworks I have for tomorrow. Those old claymore mines I used last year just created too much collateral damage on my neighbors so I guess Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll see if I have any old stinger missiles left.
You think catching a fast FW fish is hard? Try it with a SW fish that has a pile of LR in which to hide away. You most probably will end up having to remove the bulk of your rock to nab him. Although, it is easier now than when it has coral on in the tank it is still a pain.
The obvious solution is not to need a hospital tank by starting right out with a quarantine tank. You will need one for future additions anyway so getting one started at this point is a great idea. Once ammonia levels in the main tank are near zero you can set up the quarantine using tank water and some of the rock rubble that has been cured. Give it about a week to season and it should be ready for the first newcomer. You main tank will probably be up against the diatom-algae invasion at this point and, while you are waiting for it to abate, is a good time to get your first fish under quarantine. Four to six weeks later the algae should have diminished and the new fish will be ready for the display.
Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure I will also be asked about the gallon per inch rule that spills over from FW tanks. In SW that rule goes out the window. For a FO tank you might say 5 gallons per inch but if it is to be a reef tank you need to consider the waste products of the invertebrates. That throws in a major complication and makes using the gallon per inch rule useless. Most of the fish I will list are fairly small and reef safe. I had to keep that in mind as many newbies have small tanks and keeping a marine angel is out of the question.
Thinking of having a large FO tank with large angels? Here is a little trick that will tell you if your tank is able to house one. Look up the adult size then using a photo editor size a picture of the fish to that adult size. Cut it out and place it on the tank. If it looks too big and lacks swimming room then it is probably too big for your tank. You do need to take into consideration the fishââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s swimming habits in doing this. A large Tang or Angel needs a lot of maneuvering room. On the other hand, some pretty large eels can be kept in a smaller tank as they spend most of their time lurking in the LR.
Well, I hope you all have a great ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ÂFouthââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. I need to go down to the basement and see what fireworks I have for tomorrow. Those old claymore mines I used last year just created too much collateral damage on my neighbors so I guess Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll see if I have any old stinger missiles left.
captbunzo
Premium Member
Green Coating on Rocks
Green Coating on Rocks
Hey there. I've been reading this thread off and on for the last 3 weeks and finally have a good newbie question to ask. I apologize in advance as this answer is probably out there somewhere. However, I was having trouble finding exactly what I needed.
And yes, I did use the search function on RC...
Anyhow, my tank is about 8 weeks old. Things seem to be going great. My parameters seem to be staying decently in line. Life was good.
Well, I looked at my tank this evening and discovered that a GREEN DUST like substance seems to be coating most of the rock in the tank. It's a solid evergreen color and seems to be not more then just coating the rocks. No hairy algae look, just as if it had been painted on.
So, my questions are:
Green Coating on Rocks
Hey there. I've been reading this thread off and on for the last 3 weeks and finally have a good newbie question to ask. I apologize in advance as this answer is probably out there somewhere. However, I was having trouble finding exactly what I needed.
And yes, I did use the search function on RC...
Anyhow, my tank is about 8 weeks old. Things seem to be going great. My parameters seem to be staying decently in line. Life was good.
Well, I looked at my tank this evening and discovered that a GREEN DUST like substance seems to be coating most of the rock in the tank. It's a solid evergreen color and seems to be not more then just coating the rocks. No hairy algae look, just as if it had been painted on.
So, my questions are:
- What the heck is this stuff?
- Is it good / bad / indifferent?
- Do I need to do anything about it?
[/list=1]
Anyhow, thank you for your time!
wow, what an informative thread. i had to post numerous questions on different forums as well as scavenge google for articles on the information given here.
one question i do have: i just started in saltwater and have a 60g with 45lb of liverock and a jebo 180 skimmer. i read somewhere that it was OK to use just a 1/2" of sand (southdown). so, that's what i did. it's more like 1-2" deep. my question is, should i leave this as is or should i buy some livesand to compliment this?
one question i do have: i just started in saltwater and have a 60g with 45lb of liverock and a jebo 180 skimmer. i read somewhere that it was OK to use just a 1/2" of sand (southdown). so, that's what i did. it's more like 1-2" deep. my question is, should i leave this as is or should i buy some livesand to compliment this?
baja_hammer2003
New member
great thread
great thread
thanks
great thread
thanks
Re: Green Coating on Rocks
Re: Green Coating on Rocks
A computer programmer that knows how to use a query? Well now, will wonders never cease?
The Green algae outbreak takes on many forms and the types of algae that causes it differs from tank to tank. In general a tank that has the LR cured in a separate container will have less algae, over a shorter period of time, than those that go with the "throw it in and let it stink" method.
Plan on hosting the "green felt" algae (for lack of a better name) for a couple of weeks and keep up the water changes. Adding some snails at this point will also help.
Hyphen,
I would consider adding a few more inches of sand to that bed. To really use the DSB method requires a bed around 4" deep to get the de-nitrification that such a bed achieves. Lesser beds are usually promulgated by the evils bare bottom reefer society.
BTW All
I was going to post the fish list but thought it needed some polishing. It has been a long, Long time since I took Latin and I need to check out some of the fish names tonight. I'll check with a few priests and lawyers and post it tomorrow.
Re: Green Coating on Rocks
captbunzo said:
And yes, I did use the search function on RC...
A computer programmer that knows how to use a query? Well now, will wonders never cease?
The Green algae outbreak takes on many forms and the types of algae that causes it differs from tank to tank. In general a tank that has the LR cured in a separate container will have less algae, over a shorter period of time, than those that go with the "throw it in and let it stink" method.
Plan on hosting the "green felt" algae (for lack of a better name) for a couple of weeks and keep up the water changes. Adding some snails at this point will also help.
Hyphen,
I would consider adding a few more inches of sand to that bed. To really use the DSB method requires a bed around 4" deep to get the de-nitrification that such a bed achieves. Lesser beds are usually promulgated by the evils bare bottom reefer society.
BTW All
I was going to post the fish list but thought it needed some polishing. It has been a long, Long time since I took Latin and I need to check out some of the fish names tonight. I'll check with a few priests and lawyers and post it tomorrow.
The List-Part Mono
The List-Part Mono
A little prolog here before I start my list. In general I recommend a tank of 70 gallons or more for the Newbie. Larger tanks are easier to maintain than a nano. That said, I realize that many new reefers do start out with much smaller tanks. For that reason my list will mainly include small fish, easy to keep, mostly reef safe and not a burden on the smaller tank. I will divide this list into two parts with a list of those suitable to the larger tank coming in the next installment. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m not going to get too verbose in my treatment of these fish as there is a world of information about them found on the web. In may cases Henry Schultz the Third (The Fish King) has written a full detail of their habits and so forth so I will link to that for further information. Please be aware that this list is based solely on my personal preference and Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure my choices will differ depending on who you ask. Anyways, here it is.
Small, undemanding, hearty and peaceful; words that describe the genus of Chromis. In any aquarium of 20 gallons on up these are great fish for the beginner. Like their near cousins, the damsels, these fish are inexpensive, resistant to disease, tolerate somewhat poor water quality while providing a flash of color in any tank. The species C. viridis, blue/green Chromis, is the most commonly offered in the hobby. A schooling fish, they accept a wide variety of foods and, unlike the other damsels. are fairly non-aggressive to their neighbors. Also consider the species C. cyanum, blue chromis, C. Vanderbiltiti, Vanderbiltââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s or purple Chromis, or the beautiful, C. Scotti, Indigo Chromis, when setting up you tank. In short a Great beginners fish.
Chromis
Only slightly behind the Chromis are the Cardinalfish. Another schooling fish, the only negatives about them is they are somewhat more difficult to please in their feeding regime and tend to be more active at night. They are extremely peaceful and do well in a shoal. An added benefit is that they are relatively easy to breed in captivity. The Benggasi Cardinal, Pterapogon Kauderni, with its interesting fin structure, and the Flame Cardinal, Apogon maculata are the most commonly found in the reef tank.
Cardinalfish
Have a nano and need a single show specimen fish? Then consider the Wrasses. While not a schooling fish, like those above, these colorful beauties will enhance any tank. Small and not needing a ton of swimming room they are great in the nano that needs a standout fish. They can do well in a tank from 10-20 gallons as long as they are not housed with other fish. Do be warned they will, in a small tank, show aggression to other tank mates, especially bottom dwellers, but small tanks should not be a choice for a bevy of fish and a Wrasse fits this single fish nitch well. If you choose a Wrasse there are a couple of considerations. They are accomplished gymnasts and will leap from an uncovered tank. They also have an appetite for shrimp and crabs. Donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t add mobile inverts to a Wrasse tank unless you want to set out a smorgasbord. The lined Wrasses, are more active than the more colorful Fairy Wrasses but some Fairies will pick on certain types of corals. To me, the Fairy Wrasses are some of the most colorful fish in the saltwater realm.
Fairy Wrasses
Lined Wrasses
More Wrasses
While the Wrasse is a colorful fish the Blennies are the character actors of the tank. Like Wrasses a semi-bottom dweller there constant movement along the sand bed is always a sight to watch. The Scooter Blenny, Synchiropus stellatus gets its name from the way it glides about the bottom of the tank in search of prey. All the fish mentioned so far love ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œPodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and they are a main source in their diet. Having a refugium is a great help but if your tank is too small to support one you can culture them with minimal space of expense.
Blennies
Still lurking for a spot in a tankââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s sand bed and adding spectacular color in some cases are the Gobies and their near cousins the Dragonets. The only reason I rate them somewhat behind the Blennies is that they require a bit more real estate. They are true carnivores and require a good population of bottom dwelling prey, The confines of a nano donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t provide the surface area to really keep these little guys happy and well fed. The minimum tank is probably a 30 gallon, although you could go smaller if you have a refugium. There are quite a few posts with people claming that they keep Gobies and Mandarins by feeding them prepared foods. This may be true but I still believe a good supply of ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œPodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ is an essential to keeping these fish healthy. The Watchman, Cinctus cryptocentrus and Purple Firefish, Nemateleotris decora, are both popular Gobies kept in the reef.
Gobies A
The ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œCleanersââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â
I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know why it is but people donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seem to include seahorses as fish. Sure they are odd looking but they still are fish and, nowadays, a great choice for a species tank. Over 50 years ago I received a shipment from Florida of a pair of dwarf seahorses. It was my first experience with keeping SW fish. (Be it rather brief as the directions that came with them stated you could use table salt to prepare the SW). Much progress has been made since then in the care and feeding of these wonderful creatures and tank bred specimens abound. The drawback is you need to be careful in how you house your seahorses. They really canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t be housed with other fish that will out eat them in an instant. A welcome species in a Seahorse tank are the Pipefish that are the same, easy going, attitude of their cousins. Anemones and stinging corals will also lead to their demise but they can be kept with less hostile inverts. Flow rates must also be more gentle than in most reef tanks as the are not the worldââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s best swimmer.
The Dwarfs can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons and the large ones in a tall 30 gallon tank. As about the only corals that will be suitable in a seahorse tank are low light, low flow species; the initial set-up is less in cost than most fish. Having a refugium is a major benefit in keeping these ponies as they just love ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œpodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. If the tank is big enough you can keep a Mandy or Assessors safely among them. The tank bred seahorses, in almost all cases, can be maintained on mysis and silversides. Drawbacks? The larger, tank raised, ones do cost quite a bit. They also can succumb to bacterial infections, less likely with captive bred. It just so happens that this group gets there own forum on RC so be sure to see the Seahorses before you acquire some.
As usual, King Henry has also talked about them Theyââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re at the Head of the Stretch-The Ponies
And Pipefish
Hawkfish, a great fish that is welcome in most any tank. They get along with most tank mate but do tend to bully other Hawks (I have no idea how they get any nookie ). The only drawback I have seen, and your may chalk this up to bad luck, is they seem prone to catching velvet,Amyloodinium. The first one I acquired, a long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, promptly came down with ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œThe Wedding Vail of Deathââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â, Marine Velvet. and wiped out around 75% of my tank (Yeah, I was a dumb Newbie too one time and never set up a quarantine tank). When I did learn about the importance of a Q-tank I placed a newly acquired Longnose, Oxycirrhites typus, in it with an Atlantic Blue Angel,Holocanthus bermudensis (formerly isabelita), which I had in there because it had been cut by a Surgeonfish barb, and inside a week lost both fish to Velvet. Back then that angel would set you back about $400 in todayââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s dollars so I was not amused. To top things off a close friend added a Flame, Neocirrhites armatus, to his tank with equally disastrous results. All and all it soured me back then on Hawks but I think it was just a string of bad luck. If you do get one make sure it is surrounded by peaceful tank mates as they tend to be shy with aggressive fish.
Hawks of the Sea
Ok, Ok, why have I not found Nemo? Well, quite frankly I am not a Clownfish fan. They are often nasty little damsels that claim the whole tank as their domain. Also, and this is foremost on my mind, Clownfish keepers always feel they need to keep an Anemone. Anemones are not at all a good invertebrate choice for the neophyte. Their care is specialized and often leads to the anemoneââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s death in the hands of an inexperience reefer. Such a death can lead to a major ammonia spike and wipe out the whole tank. I would prefer to recommend a school of Yellow Tailed Damsels over a clown. The fairly peaceful yellow tails spend more time bickering amongst themselves than bothering tank mates when kept as a shoal. Fortunately, clowns are available as tank bred these days and the cultured clowns seem to have some of that fighting spirit bred out of them. If you must have a Nemo, then have a captive bred and hold off on the anemone until you have a year of so in the hobby. The clowns will do fine without a host.
Clowning Around
Thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s the first part of my Newbie list of fish. Next time Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll talk about some of the intermediate level fish that are not to difficult to keep in the larger aquarium.
The List-Part Mono
A little prolog here before I start my list. In general I recommend a tank of 70 gallons or more for the Newbie. Larger tanks are easier to maintain than a nano. That said, I realize that many new reefers do start out with much smaller tanks. For that reason my list will mainly include small fish, easy to keep, mostly reef safe and not a burden on the smaller tank. I will divide this list into two parts with a list of those suitable to the larger tank coming in the next installment. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m not going to get too verbose in my treatment of these fish as there is a world of information about them found on the web. In may cases Henry Schultz the Third (The Fish King) has written a full detail of their habits and so forth so I will link to that for further information. Please be aware that this list is based solely on my personal preference and Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure my choices will differ depending on who you ask. Anyways, here it is.
Small, undemanding, hearty and peaceful; words that describe the genus of Chromis. In any aquarium of 20 gallons on up these are great fish for the beginner. Like their near cousins, the damsels, these fish are inexpensive, resistant to disease, tolerate somewhat poor water quality while providing a flash of color in any tank. The species C. viridis, blue/green Chromis, is the most commonly offered in the hobby. A schooling fish, they accept a wide variety of foods and, unlike the other damsels. are fairly non-aggressive to their neighbors. Also consider the species C. cyanum, blue chromis, C. Vanderbiltiti, Vanderbiltââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s or purple Chromis, or the beautiful, C. Scotti, Indigo Chromis, when setting up you tank. In short a Great beginners fish.
Chromis
Only slightly behind the Chromis are the Cardinalfish. Another schooling fish, the only negatives about them is they are somewhat more difficult to please in their feeding regime and tend to be more active at night. They are extremely peaceful and do well in a shoal. An added benefit is that they are relatively easy to breed in captivity. The Benggasi Cardinal, Pterapogon Kauderni, with its interesting fin structure, and the Flame Cardinal, Apogon maculata are the most commonly found in the reef tank.
Cardinalfish
Have a nano and need a single show specimen fish? Then consider the Wrasses. While not a schooling fish, like those above, these colorful beauties will enhance any tank. Small and not needing a ton of swimming room they are great in the nano that needs a standout fish. They can do well in a tank from 10-20 gallons as long as they are not housed with other fish. Do be warned they will, in a small tank, show aggression to other tank mates, especially bottom dwellers, but small tanks should not be a choice for a bevy of fish and a Wrasse fits this single fish nitch well. If you choose a Wrasse there are a couple of considerations. They are accomplished gymnasts and will leap from an uncovered tank. They also have an appetite for shrimp and crabs. Donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t add mobile inverts to a Wrasse tank unless you want to set out a smorgasbord. The lined Wrasses, are more active than the more colorful Fairy Wrasses but some Fairies will pick on certain types of corals. To me, the Fairy Wrasses are some of the most colorful fish in the saltwater realm.
Fairy Wrasses
Lined Wrasses
More Wrasses
While the Wrasse is a colorful fish the Blennies are the character actors of the tank. Like Wrasses a semi-bottom dweller there constant movement along the sand bed is always a sight to watch. The Scooter Blenny, Synchiropus stellatus gets its name from the way it glides about the bottom of the tank in search of prey. All the fish mentioned so far love ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œPodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and they are a main source in their diet. Having a refugium is a great help but if your tank is too small to support one you can culture them with minimal space of expense.
Blennies
Still lurking for a spot in a tankââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s sand bed and adding spectacular color in some cases are the Gobies and their near cousins the Dragonets. The only reason I rate them somewhat behind the Blennies is that they require a bit more real estate. They are true carnivores and require a good population of bottom dwelling prey, The confines of a nano donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t provide the surface area to really keep these little guys happy and well fed. The minimum tank is probably a 30 gallon, although you could go smaller if you have a refugium. There are quite a few posts with people claming that they keep Gobies and Mandarins by feeding them prepared foods. This may be true but I still believe a good supply of ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œPodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ is an essential to keeping these fish healthy. The Watchman, Cinctus cryptocentrus and Purple Firefish, Nemateleotris decora, are both popular Gobies kept in the reef.
Gobies A
The ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œCleanersââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â
I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know why it is but people donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t seem to include seahorses as fish. Sure they are odd looking but they still are fish and, nowadays, a great choice for a species tank. Over 50 years ago I received a shipment from Florida of a pair of dwarf seahorses. It was my first experience with keeping SW fish. (Be it rather brief as the directions that came with them stated you could use table salt to prepare the SW). Much progress has been made since then in the care and feeding of these wonderful creatures and tank bred specimens abound. The drawback is you need to be careful in how you house your seahorses. They really canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t be housed with other fish that will out eat them in an instant. A welcome species in a Seahorse tank are the Pipefish that are the same, easy going, attitude of their cousins. Anemones and stinging corals will also lead to their demise but they can be kept with less hostile inverts. Flow rates must also be more gentle than in most reef tanks as the are not the worldââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s best swimmer.
The Dwarfs can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons and the large ones in a tall 30 gallon tank. As about the only corals that will be suitable in a seahorse tank are low light, low flow species; the initial set-up is less in cost than most fish. Having a refugium is a major benefit in keeping these ponies as they just love ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œpodsââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. If the tank is big enough you can keep a Mandy or Assessors safely among them. The tank bred seahorses, in almost all cases, can be maintained on mysis and silversides. Drawbacks? The larger, tank raised, ones do cost quite a bit. They also can succumb to bacterial infections, less likely with captive bred. It just so happens that this group gets there own forum on RC so be sure to see the Seahorses before you acquire some.
As usual, King Henry has also talked about them Theyââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢re at the Head of the Stretch-The Ponies
And Pipefish
Hawkfish, a great fish that is welcome in most any tank. They get along with most tank mate but do tend to bully other Hawks (I have no idea how they get any nookie
). The only drawback I have seen, and your may chalk this up to bad luck, is they seem prone to catching velvet,Amyloodinium. The first one I acquired, a long, long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, promptly came down with ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œThe Wedding Vail of Deathââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â, Marine Velvet. and wiped out around 75% of my tank (Yeah, I was a dumb Newbie too one time and never set up a quarantine tank). When I did learn about the importance of a Q-tank I placed a newly acquired Longnose, Oxycirrhites typus, in it with an Atlantic Blue Angel,Holocanthus bermudensis (formerly isabelita), which I had in there because it had been cut by a Surgeonfish barb, and inside a week lost both fish to Velvet. Back then that angel would set you back about $400 in todayââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s dollars so I was not amused. To top things off a close friend added a Flame, Neocirrhites armatus, to his tank with equally disastrous results. All and all it soured me back then on Hawks but I think it was just a string of bad luck. If you do get one make sure it is surrounded by peaceful tank mates as they tend to be shy with aggressive fish.Hawks of the Sea
Ok, Ok, why have I not found Nemo? Well, quite frankly I am not a Clownfish fan. They are often nasty little damsels that claim the whole tank as their domain. Also, and this is foremost on my mind, Clownfish keepers always feel they need to keep an Anemone. Anemones are not at all a good invertebrate choice for the neophyte. Their care is specialized and often leads to the anemoneââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s death in the hands of an inexperience reefer. Such a death can lead to a major ammonia spike and wipe out the whole tank. I would prefer to recommend a school of Yellow Tailed Damsels over a clown. The fairly peaceful yellow tails spend more time bickering amongst themselves than bothering tank mates when kept as a shoal. Fortunately, clowns are available as tank bred these days and the cultured clowns seem to have some of that fighting spirit bred out of them. If you must have a Nemo, then have a captive bred and hold off on the anemone until you have a year of so in the hobby. The clowns will do fine without a host.
Clowning Around
Thatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s the first part of my Newbie list of fish. Next time Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ll talk about some of the intermediate level fish that are not to difficult to keep in the larger aquarium.
So, Ive been reading this thread for a couple of days now and I got to the adding fish part, and decided since i have alot of work to do before then, its time for a specific question or 2. Ive got a 40 gal tank about 18" deep. Im building a stand this weekend that will allow room for my 40 gal sump. a little overkill, but i got 2 free 40 gal tanks. Can i put the southdown in with a layer of plastic i.e. trash bag before putting in the water to prevent a sandstorm, or is the sandstorm necessary for the sand to properly settle? Also, how can i obtain the 70 gals of RO/DI. How long should i wait to put in LS and then LR? I will probly get cured rock to speed up the process. After I have the LS and LR in, I pretty much just wait for 3-4 weeks and do alot of water changes? I have a friend helping me out but his experience is very limited too. He told me that i dont need a skimmer if i do frequent water changes and i wouldnt need a filtration device with the LS and LR. He is giving me a 800gph return pump, will this be adequate? I think I will go with about 250-300W of lighting because one day I would a reef tank. The search function hasnt been working, so i will ask, what is a refugium? this should do for now. Thanks alot for this thread. It has answered many questions. - An extreme newbie with only FW experience.
I just read that southdown may not be in existense anymore and if it is, not in colorado? Any alternatives and where to get it besides an expensive LFS?
I just read that southdown may not be in existense anymore and if it is, not in colorado? Any alternatives and where to get it besides an expensive LFS?
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Hi TA,
With a 40 you really want an RO/DI of your own. You can buy store bought RO or distilled but the price gets to be a drag on the wallet in pretty short order. With the prices on home units going down by the day it will pay to buy one in no time flat.
When I set up a new tank I'm pretty much the "down and dirty" type when it comes to adding sand. I pour it in and let the sandstorm whirl. I like to let the new water age for a few days anyway so by that time the sand has settled. After that I add the LR. It really doesn't matter if the tank is completely clear as sandstorms are a common occurrence on a real reef and the reef critters can tolerate it. Within a few weeks following the LR addition a biofilm forms on the sand and causes the particles to stick together. This helps to avoid further sandstorms. Adding real LS to the bed speeds up this process.
I like skimmers, they are just an additional tool to help remove nutrients from your tank. You can get along without one but need to reduce the number of critters you keep.
Both the pump and lighting plan sound good. You may want to read The Lighting Thread before selecting your lights. With a tank at only 18" almost all forms of lighting are doable.
With a 40 you really want an RO/DI of your own. You can buy store bought RO or distilled but the price gets to be a drag on the wallet in pretty short order. With the prices on home units going down by the day it will pay to buy one in no time flat.
When I set up a new tank I'm pretty much the "down and dirty" type when it comes to adding sand. I pour it in and let the sandstorm whirl. I like to let the new water age for a few days anyway so by that time the sand has settled. After that I add the LR. It really doesn't matter if the tank is completely clear as sandstorms are a common occurrence on a real reef and the reef critters can tolerate it. Within a few weeks following the LR addition a biofilm forms on the sand and causes the particles to stick together. This helps to avoid further sandstorms. Adding real LS to the bed speeds up this process.
I like skimmers, they are just an additional tool to help remove nutrients from your tank. You can get along without one but need to reduce the number of critters you keep.
Both the pump and lighting plan sound good. You may want to read The Lighting Thread before selecting your lights. With a tank at only 18" almost all forms of lighting are doable.
- Status
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