So you got a new fish tank Newbie

Status
Not open for further replies.
Newbie Advice

Newbie Advice

Hi there, first post, I've tried to read all I can (impossible - too much written) so I'll ask my questions for my proposed setup. I have a 220 glass tank and a wet dry to use for sump on bottom with protein skimmer. I found a local wholesaler that will sell me some live sand at .25 / pound (so I think that makes it better than going to the ocean and harvesting my own) and Haitian live rock at $2.10 / pound. I have a guy that will deliver my saltwater (advantages of living close to the ocean) that he also runs a UV system on before it gets to my tank. So my plan is to get the water, and then put live sand and live rock in at same time ?? (how is haitian live rock?) I have 150-200 pounds of Fiji that was alive 8 months ago, when I took down my old tank. I noticed the LFS had UV on all their reef systems, and I had thought that it's not advisable on reefs, but they swear by them, so was thinking to add a 36 watt UV (as they say it will not only keep any diseases and algae blooms to a minimum, but also will make the water much more crystal clear looking. My home made hood has 2 X 175 MH, and 3 6ft. VHO Actinic. I'm thinking my lighting won't be sufficient and was thinking about add a PC setup with 384 watts. Lastly, I've read about flow, and although my return produces quite a bit, I'm thinking that adding a closed loop system is a good idea. So what about using a canister Magnum or something for that so that I can use Micron and/or Charcoal on it when it is needed.

OK - LOL - Sorry for so much info at once, but I'm excited about all the hours I've been reading on this great hobby, and I'm very excited to get everything rolling.

Thanks in advance for any advice - Randy
 
Hi Randy,

If you have a UV, then fine, use it. I mainly discourage anyone from buying one but if it is purchased use it. The main reason to use a UV is in something like a pet store where multiple tanks are fed from a common sump. It really helps prevent cross infections when used in the manner. For a single tank, a canister running a micron polishing filter will remove more parasites faster and cheaper.

Those are great prices on the sand and rock. It is always nice to use a mix of things, in my opinion, as it add diversity to the tank. The Haitian LR should do well in a mix with the Fiji. I hope you stored the rock where it could get some light and had circulation and heating during that period. If not, it may be fairly inactive.

Your lighting will depend on what you wish to keep. Your current lights are a bit meager for a 220 unless it is mainly for fish only. I, myself, am not crazy about PC lights but they are widely used. I would consider supplementing your current MH with T-5. Here, as if you haven't read enough, is my Lighting Tread. It will help explain your options.
 
Thanks Waterkeeper,

So UV not necessary, should I go with an Ocean Clear filter then? (cause I don't think a magnum 350 would be large enough) and would I put it from between my motor and output? Also, I got a good deal on a new PC system 384 watts so I bought it. But now I'm thinking I saw a good Ebay on 400 watt Metal halide retros. Should I buy 2 of those and use them in place of the 2 X 175 that I have? Or possibly in addition ??
Thanks, Randy
 
Krazy,

The best cure for any parasitic disease is to not let it reach your main tank in the first place. Ozone, UV, and micron filters can help somewhat but a fish introduced that is loaded with ich is going to infect the entire tank no matter what you run. This Article explains the importance of quarantine tanks and how to set one up. Use that Magnum on the Q-tank and all will be well.

Once again, on the lighting it depends on what you plan for the tank. I would definitely say the 400 watt MH would be better than the 175 on that size tank. If you plan on clams or some of the more light demanding SPS then the 400 + the 175 would be in order.
 
OK on the REAL pine tree, and I do support your REAL comment regarding trees.

I'm curing the rock in my shed in Florida. Temp is not a problem this time of year but do I have to monitor the temperature of the water anyway?

I'm moving forward with this project.
 
Sounds good Carlos. Here in Ohio you need to add a lot of Prestone into that curing vat if it is outside right now. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6318174#post6318174 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WaterKeeper
Yikes, I had to bump myself as that last post was number 666 in this thread. ;)

I see that the Waterkeeper don't like that number. :eek2:
You're not the only one.
 
Hi WK.

Love the thread. I've learned so much in the past week that's it's taken to read it all. I'm in the information gathering stage before I buy my tank and equipment.

I do have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers to yet. I have looked/searched for them but evidentally not in the right places so I decided to bug you :)

If it makes a difference I'm still trying to decide between a 150g and 180g acrylic tank with a built-in overflow. Based on the RC Sump Volume Calculator with a 180g tank I should have at least a 15 gallon sump but I plan on going as large as possible and still be able to fit all the equipment under the stand which I think would be a 30-45 gallon. And I will eventually be running MH lighting.

In regards to Sumps, Skimmers, and Return - Is there a standard or general rule of thumb as to how many gph should be going into the sump, skimmed, and returned?

In regards to chillers - I live in Portland Oregon where we only get 90-100 degree weather a total of 14 days per year (and not all at one time, kind of spread out). Most houses don't have A/C, ours included. I talked to 2 LFS - One said on the hot days you only need to float some ziplock bags of ice on the water. The other said you need a chiller. What do you think?

Also if there are any threads regarding these topics that you know of off the top of your head could you point me in the right direction.

Thanks again for all you help. I've learned so much!

Sarah
 
Hi Sarah and Ann,

Be afraid, be very afraid, but don't take whatever you have back until later next week. ;) I don't have time to answer much this weekend so--

Merry Christmas to All

1720tree2_white_100.jpg
 
No problem WK. Take all the time you need, you deserve at least that because so far you've saved me a ton of time and $.

Have a good weekend!
 
Tom,

Time to paint the back of the tank. Good idea or not? Blue or black? I like the effect, but where is your thread talking about this cosmetic style?

Carlos
 
Here's another one for ya, Tom.

What's your view of freshwater dipping?

I've read a lot of threads about it today and it seems kind of controversil. I seems kind of un-necessary if you use a quarintine tank (and I will be getting one before I get my first fish). But since I'm a newbie I might be missing some big piece of the picture.
 
That's a good question !!!

I remember one time I was snorkeling near an inlet where some guys were catching some angels and I asked them about disease. They told me they "dip" them in fresh water to remove any critters inside of them and told me that fish do this themselves naturally by swimming near where the freshwater meets the ocean to "clean" themselves.

So what you say Tom? Were they feeding me a line?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6362723#post6362723 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sarahsmile
Here's another one for ya, Tom.

What's your view of freshwater dipping?

I've read a lot of threads about it today and it seems kind of controversial. I seems kind of un-necessary if you use a quarantine tank (and I will be getting one before I get my first fish). But since I'm a newbie I might be missing some big piece of the picture.

LOL - I guess I really ought to go to bed when I'm unable to spell correctly.
 
Well it's the 14th day of Xmas so I'd better tackle a few of these questions.

Sarah

In sumps, just like main tanks, bigger is better. There are people who run 150 gallon tanks and have a 300 gallon sump. Don't forget, the amount of water in the system is additive. More water means more to dilute waste products. On the other hand, when using a giant sump, you do need to figure it in when computing water changes. The up side there is that most people with large water volumes can do water changes less frequently.

As to circulation rates it is the main tank volume that is of concern. You want a 10X per hour turnover rate minimum and most people go higher. With a large sump the rate through the sump itself may actually be below the minimum rate for the tank.

Chillers in norther climates are usually not needed if you have AC. I've never had a tank go above 86 degrees F even on the hottest day. I'd try without the chiller to start. Often a fan blowing on the sump and tank surface will cool the tank by evaporation to keep it stable. Again, with a large tank and sump it needs to be pretty hot for a number of days before problems develop.

There is a lot of info on sumps and such in the links I provided way back at the beginning of this thread, which is now so old that I think they go to an article written by William Innes. ;)

Finally, Sarah & Krazy, on FW dips, I never use them as I'm going, (as absent minded as I am) to forget the fish is in FW and leave it for a day or two. Steve Pro is our dip man and likes to keep a fish in a FW bath for 15 minutes. He says that 1 or 2 minutes is useless. That kind of scares me so I go straight to the Q-tank without the dip. Steve handles many more fish than I, so if he trusts these dips, I imagine it is OK. I don't believe they do much however for either ich or velvet.

Carlos,

People paint the back of tanks and do all sorts of fake rockwork etc. No harm if you like the look.

Let's see-
Ann,

I hope you haven't been scared away. With care, this hobby is easy. If you have questions just ask away.
 
Hi Waterkeeper;
I haven't been scared away - just scared. I am at day 14. I used R/O water and instant ocean to fill the tank. I am running a sump with a Rio submersibles pump. (I am wondering if my sump is big enough). Live sand was added on day 7, and live rock on day 10. So, my rock and sand have been in for 3 days now.

I am re-curing the rock in my 90 gallon tank since I had nothing alive in the tank. The ammonia levels are high, and the nitrates are high. I plan to change out 20 gallons on day 7 (as per directions from my LFS.

I am concerned about cloudy water with a green tinge to it. I assume this is diatom growth, but I don't know if I should do anything.

Oh, the tank is sitting at 77 degrees.

Any hints or comments?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top