SPS Coral Color Guide

Biggar

New member
Please tell me your experience with products that may have helped you get certain colors to pop and color in general.

Please list:
1. Product
2. Amount dosed
3. Tank size parameters
4. Any other methods used to get great color

Here is article i found:

"This guide endeavors to assist you with the ever popular SPS coral. This was written by member Shadowramy and it explains specific ideas and strategies in which you can do to affect the color of your corals. This assumes you have a more then basic understanding of water parameters in your tank. Click the read link to start reading about coloring in SPS corals.

In the past I have been asked a lot about coral colorization as well as wanted to satisfy my own curiosity about specific methods to achieving certain colors. Usually I am asked, “How do you get good colors?” Which I then ask, “What specific color are you looking to enhance?” Over the past several months I have really worked on “tweaking” colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.

Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock.

Yellows

Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.



Greens

Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).

Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You'll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).

Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.


Blues and some purples

This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.



Reds/Pinks and some Purples

Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.

For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.



Purples

Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.

First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.

From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.

Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).

Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.

These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward."


Looking forward to hearing from SPS addicts. :rollface:
 
As a very basic observation, which I think is too often overlooked, is the duration of intense lighting on our reef aquariums and the direct association and impact that has on coral color and growth. While we can speculate and test these chemical compounds, typically without any rigorous scientific measurement or accuracy, without first taking into account lighting duration, I think we're just spinning our wheels.

So first, before tweaking with these compounds, I think beginning with the shortest duration possible (perhaps 4-5 hours) then increasing until the desired color and growth is achieved, it the best possible route to go. Second, I think would be conducting very small daily water changes (perhaps adding some of these trace elements as well).

I think without doing these two steps (nailing down lighting and water changes) we're perhaps selling ourselves short (literally) by attempting to control color with chemicals alone.

That being said, I think that there are probably chemical lacking in our system and prevent the most intense coloration possible, so I think there is some merit to exploring which do what and if those colors can be improved when all other conditions are already ideal. I guess my point is can we maximize color without added trace elements? I think it's a good question. Sorry I don't mean to get your thread off track with a philosophical debate.
 
My experience is a little counter to the general principles of SPS keeping.

I have an SPS dominated mixed reef. My tank husbandry has been biased towards keeping nutrients low, prefering to keep the SPS healthy at the expense of LPS and SPS. Nitrates and phosphates at zero. I was so succesdfull that my LPS and softies did suffer. Whole colonies of zoas died off, coco worms and feather dusters died off, Mushrooms do not multiply, LPS survive but are static. SPS, OTOH, were all growing like gangbusters, running into one another and hitting the front glass. They were growing so much I had to start fragging whole branches and wither giving them away or outright throwing them away.

Several months ago, I decided to raise nutrient levels. I increased fish feeding, started weekly coral feeding then doubled that to twice a week. Zoas started reappearing where they had disappeared, LPS tissue started to thicken up and grow new heads, leathers and mushrooms started to multiply.

To my surprise, the SPS colors started to brighten up. Not that they were ever drab, but they became more intense. Yellows and greens and reds and pinks were more definite. I have one blue tort that darkened and became more blue, but also started sprouting more branches! I expected the SPS to suffer some from the increased nutrients, but what happened was the exact opposite. One thing I want to emphasize, however. Despite the significant increase in feeding, my nitrates and phosphates remain undetectable. I do get an occasional hint of nitrate, but it's generally at zero as well.

So, IMO and IME, one cause for drab color in SPS is actually too low of a nutrient level. The challenge is to find that nutrient level that is "just right".

Here's an FTS photo taken last month:


Here's a macro of Acropora yongeii, yellow with green polyps
 
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My experience is a little counter to the general principles of SPS keeping.

I have an SPS dominated mixed reef. My tank husbandry has been based towards keeping nutrients low, prefering to keep the SPS healthy at the expense of LPS and SPS. Nitrates and phosphates at zero. I was so succesdfull that my LPS and softies did suffer. Whole colonies of zoas died off, coco worms and feather dusters died off, Mushrooms do not multiply, LPS survive but are static. SPS, OTOH, were all growing like gangbusters, running into one another and hitting the front glass. They were growing so much I had to start fragging whole branches and wither giving them away or outright throwing them away.

Several months ago, I decided to raise nutrient levels. I increased fish feeding, started weekly coral feeding then doubled that to twice a week. Zoas started reappearing where they had disappeared, LPS tissue started to thicken up and grow new heads, leathers and mushrooms started to multiply.

To my surprise, the SPS colors started to brighten up. Not that they were ever drab, but they became more intense. Yellows and greens and reds and pinks were more definite. I have one blue tort that darkened and became more blue, but also started sprouting more branches! I expected the SPS to suffer some from the increased nutrients, but what happened was the exact opposite. One thing I want to emphasize, however. Despite the significant increase in feeding, my nitrates and phosphates remain undetectable. I do get an occasional hint of nitrate, but it's generally at zero as well.

So, IMO and IME, one cause for drab color in SPS is actually too low of a nutrient level. The challenge is to find that nutrient level that is "just right".

Nutrients are another major part of coral color, I also wonder how much of these chemical compounds mentioned by the OP are actually contained within the food we add to our systems. So by feeding more we actually add this compounds that increase coloration.
 
I agree with palting.
My SPS dominated mixed reef has zoas, Lps and lots of acros and all are very healthy. My parameters are all around 0, but I feed heavy. My sps love the feedings and catch cyclopeeze which seems to enhance their growth.
 
That write up makes me cringe and laugh at the same time.

The nicest reefs I've seen use little in the way of supplements. They do however have good, stable water quality, low PO4 & NO3 while having a decent fish load and feeding a good amount of quality food (ie.good filtration and husbandry).
 
The nicest reefs I've seen use little in the way of supplements. They do however have good, stable water quality, low PO4 & NO3 while having a decent fish load and feeding a good amount of quality food (ie.good filtration and husbandry).

I have a new barebottom system that I've been allowing to settle in and "mature" (january 2013), and these are some of the ideals I'm adopting and will focus on the most...

Watching some of you cats and your amazing works, I jus can't stay away :beer:
 
my experience is a little counter to the general principles of sps keeping.

I have an sps dominated mixed reef. My tank husbandry has been biased towards keeping nutrients low, prefering to keep the sps healthy at the expense of lps and sps. Nitrates and phosphates at zero. I was so succesdfull that my lps and softies did suffer. Whole colonies of zoas died off, coco worms and feather dusters died off, mushrooms do not multiply, lps survive but are static. Sps, otoh, were all growing like gangbusters, running into one another and hitting the front glass. They were growing so much i had to start fragging whole branches and wither giving them away or outright throwing them away.

Several months ago, i decided to raise nutrient levels. I increased fish feeding, started weekly coral feeding then doubled that to twice a week. Zoas started reappearing where they had disappeared, lps tissue started to thicken up and grow new heads, leathers and mushrooms started to multiply.

To my surprise, the sps colors started to brighten up. Not that they were ever drab, but they became more intense. Yellows and greens and reds and pinks were more definite. I have one blue tort that darkened and became more blue, but also started sprouting more branches! I expected the sps to suffer some from the increased nutrients, but what happened was the exact opposite. One thing i want to emphasize, however. Despite the significant increase in feeding, my nitrates and phosphates remain undetectable. I do get an occasional hint of nitrate, but it's generally at zero as well.

So, imo and ime, one cause for drab color in sps is actually too low of a nutrient level. The challenge is to find that nutrient level that is "just right".

Here's an fts photo taken last month:


here's a macro of acropora yongeii, yellow with green polyps

+1
 
It was actually sold to me as "green slimer". When I got it, it already had yellow highlights. With the recent increased feeding, the yellow color of the skeleton became more intense. It's that large colony leftmost in the FTS shot I posted.

Here's a photo when I first got it:
 
There are a few acros that are more yellow than green depending greatly on the water quality and lighting. I have gone through many and found two, on is a multiacuta, the other I believe is an efflo but only time will tell. The guide above is old but still one of the better write ups IMO.
 
I realize this is an old thread, but let me ask this question.

I noticed that some corals change colors when placed into my tank. Once I got a yellowish acropora and slowly it turned into tan-brown. Same with a pectinia. It had some bright green lines, but turned all brownish. But then some other corals stay the way they used to be.

So I wonder:

1. Why do they turn tan/brown ? Is it really nitrates/phosphates, or light or trace elements ?

2. Once a coral has turned tan/brown, if I fix whatever the reason for that was, will it turn back to its original color ?

Thanks.
 
The nicest reefs I've seen use little in the way of supplements. They do however have good, stable water quality, low PO4 & NO3 while having a decent fish load and feeding a good amount of quality food (ie.good filtration and husbandry).

+1. I don't think it could be put any better than that.
 
Im struggling to keep my acros color. my PO4 & NO3 are zero. I have a little bit of problem with alk and ca, could this be the culprit? I have LED and PAR on the corals at the moment is 250. any suggestions?
 
Im struggling to keep my acros color. my PO4 & NO3 are zero. I have a little bit of problem with alk and ca, could this be the culprit? I have LED and PAR on the corals at the moment is 250. any suggestions?

stabilize alkalinity and calcium and bring up p04 and no3 at bit.
 
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