Interceptor kills arthropods (shrimp, pods and crabs) and nematodes (roundworms).
SPS pests and treatment options
- Thread starter mpoletti
- Start date
Interceptor kills arthropods (shrimp, pods and crabs) and nematodes (roundworms).
lgndrympterry
New member
OH ok i got ya thanks, i made a holding tank out of a old nano, and made it work for now, good thing im changing the water later, becuz i know they miss the display for sure. Lights....
I did lose the cleaner shrimps and i see pods floating every where...to bad i was about to add a Mandarin goby, gotta wait another year or so now.
I did lose the cleaner shrimps and i see pods floating every where...to bad i was about to add a Mandarin goby, gotta wait another year or so now.
ryansreef_26
New member
what about crabs that live on acropora, how can you tell the difference if its a good one or one that eats the coral?
In short, you need to identify the crab.
Beneficial:
http://www.chucksaddiction.com/coral_crabs.html
Or.....sometimes not.
http://www.chucksaddiction.com/hitchcrabs.html
nadking
New member
I have been having trouble keeping sps in general, montis and acroporas since about 6 months ago. Before that point, everything was going well. I am not sure if I have a predator i.e., AEFW, or monti eating nudis, red bugs etc. I have looked pretty closely and not been able to identify anything, but I have yet to look microscopically. I am down to 1 large monti cap, 1 small monti cap, and 2 acro frags. My question is, will these pests die without a host to eat? I am tempted to just rid my tank of sps completely for a few months until things work themselves out.
Yes they will die without a host. The general thinking, at least from a few years ago, is that 6 weeks is long enough for the Acro predators but I would go longer. I would also double check on the monti eating nudis, can't remember on those. Maybe someone else will chime in.
hth, Chris
To answer the question, yes they will die without a host.
That said, I would suggest you let us know what the symptoms are.
Monti eating nudis will only eat montis, so they are not the culprit for your acros.
Red bugs will not go after monti, so that is not the culprit for monti.
AEFW to the best of my knowledge stick to Acros as well.
So either you have multiple predators, or more than likely, the issue is not a predator at all.
Usually you will spot the monti eating nudi, once you know what to look for. Especially if you look on the underside of any monti caps you may have. They love monti caps, and if you have them, you are sure to see them on the underside of your monti caps.
When taking the coral out of the water, they flatten to the coral, but you should still be able to spot them.
That said, I would suggest you let us know what the symptoms are.
Monti eating nudis will only eat montis, so they are not the culprit for your acros.
Red bugs will not go after monti, so that is not the culprit for monti.
AEFW to the best of my knowledge stick to Acros as well.
So either you have multiple predators, or more than likely, the issue is not a predator at all.
Usually you will spot the monti eating nudi, once you know what to look for. Especially if you look on the underside of any monti caps you may have. They love monti caps, and if you have them, you are sure to see them on the underside of your monti caps.
When taking the coral out of the water, they flatten to the coral, but you should still be able to spot them.
nadking
New member
I did notice some white spots on the underside of my large monti cap when I was taking it out. I think that I either have multiple predators or a few predators stressing out my corals and leading to STN in other things. That being said I completely rid my tank of sps last night, and epoxied over the dead encrusting caps that were stuck to my largest pieces of rock to completely kill them. I plan on leaving it this way for a few months, and enjoying the "easier" side of the hobby, lps and softies in the mean time. Thanks for the help!
acesq
Premium Member
I have just discovered that I have an infestation of nudibranchs on three acropora colonies. They are a pale brown in color - not white like the monti eating flatworks; with frilled appendages -- not smooth like AEFW. I have twice dipped them with Coral RX and that seemed to dislodge the nudis. I can't tell if it also killed them, but it appears that it did. The second time I dipped there were fewer nudis, but because two of the colonies are decent sized and very dense, I'm sure there are eggs in there that I couldn't scrape off and new nudis will hatch soon. I'm hoping to get this under control with the Coral RX, but may have to try potassium permanganate as suggested Eric Broneman in this article: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-09/eb/index.php
Anybody else have experience with Acro eating nudi's?
Anybody else have experience with Acro eating nudi's?
Yes they will die off. They seem to have approx. a 21 day cycle from hatch to reproductive adult.
I did not see mine hatch so some of that time may have been egg gestation as well.
Levamisole was effective in reducing the population for a tank treatment, but it did not provide the 100% kill rate for me.
I would say you have to quarantine the montis. I set up a quarantine and recovery tank. Once I felt the monti was nudi free, I moved from quarantine to recovery. Then continued to watch it for 21 days.
I saved some of my monti's this way, but still lost several.
If I was to do it again, I would have fragged each one and put it in recovery tank after dip. Would have left remaining colonies in quarantine. You are more likely to save the coral as a frag.
Once I could move frag from recovery back to DT, I would have moved nudi free colonies to recovery....and so on.
It is a real PITA.
BTW - I tried scraping eggs, which worked at reducing the population, but was ineffective as a treatment.
If I had to do it again:
Definitely would use Levamisole again as a weekly dip.
Remove 100% water out of quarantine into holding tub, and add Levamisole with powerhead and heater.
Give quarantine a good cleaning with fresh water. Refill with fresh saltwater, and take corals from dosed old water, and put back in quarantine with fresh saltwater.
Repeat each week.
When you do not spot any nudis for 3 weeks, put in recovery. Observe for additional 3 weeks in recovery tank, then put in DT.
Continue until you pull your hair out...or you are nudi free....whichever comes first.
Good Luck!!!
dzhuo
Active member
Bring a semi-old thread back since I think I have RB.
Few stupid questions:
1. Are all interceptor tablets pretty much the same size? ie, when you guys say 1 tablet, there is only one size?
2. Do you turn on the skimmer after treatment? For example, after a 12 hours bath but before the next treatment, should I turn on my skimmer? Or should I leave the skimmer completely off for the whole 3 treatment length?
3. Do you do water change after each treatment or just wait until the last treatment and then do a water change?
Few stupid questions:
1. Are all interceptor tablets pretty much the same size? ie, when you guys say 1 tablet, there is only one size?
2. Do you turn on the skimmer after treatment? For example, after a 12 hours bath but before the next treatment, should I turn on my skimmer? Or should I leave the skimmer completely off for the whole 3 treatment length?
3. Do you do water change after each treatment or just wait until the last treatment and then do a water change?
1. No - The tablet for large dogs (51-100lbs) is the one commonly referred to. You would have to make adjustments to the dosing with a smaller tablet.
2. After each treatment turn skimmer back on.
3. After each treatment.
Good Luck!!
dzhuo
Active member
Thx Dave!
I started the treatment tonight. My tank is roughly 170g total water volume so I used 80% of one 32mg pill. The skimmer and carbon reactor are both turned off prior the treatment. There is no other filtration (other than LR and sand) running. It has been 2 hours and I still notice normal number of pods on the sump glass. Some of them are moving and others are stationary.
1. Is 2 hours too short to kill the pods?
2. Possible I didn't use enough pill? I was told 1 32mg pill treats 300g of water so I figure 80% of 1 pill should be enough for 170g. Do you guys think this will be OK?
3. I also take a very close look of the RB (before main light turns off) but I couldn't confirm exactly if these are RB or not. I didn't notice the classic red dot or red tail of RB. Is that possible I have misidentify normal pods (that happen to live in the acro) as RB?
I started the treatment tonight. My tank is roughly 170g total water volume so I used 80% of one 32mg pill. The skimmer and carbon reactor are both turned off prior the treatment. There is no other filtration (other than LR and sand) running. It has been 2 hours and I still notice normal number of pods on the sump glass. Some of them are moving and others are stationary.
1. Is 2 hours too short to kill the pods?
2. Possible I didn't use enough pill? I was told 1 32mg pill treats 300g of water so I figure 80% of 1 pill should be enough for 170g. Do you guys think this will be OK?
3. I also take a very close look of the RB (before main light turns off) but I couldn't confirm exactly if these are RB or not. I didn't notice the classic red dot or red tail of RB. Is that possible I have misidentify normal pods (that happen to live in the acro) as RB?
Is levamisole something people have been using for Monti eatig nudies? I was just aware that this was effective for AEFWs.
dzhuo
Active member
I took the pill and crashed it into a powdery form. I then took 80% of the powder and mix it in a small cup of tank water. After lights out, I just pour the solution into the tank. Would this be enough pill?
I take a quick look at the sump this morning (roughly 10 hours now) and I still see pods crawling around on the glass. I hope the RBs aren't that strong. I have turned the skimmer back on but leave the carbon reactor off line.
