Starved my corals with NoPox, now what?

[wkp42]

I had about 7 half dime sized turf algae popping up. So I ran chemipure elite, phosguard, and purigen. Turf didn't spread or grow, but it also didn't go away. So I started NoPox. After a week or so I worked my way to 3ml/day. Tank is 32 gallon. Got nitrates and phosphates to 0 and held them there for a couple weeks. Same thing turf didn't spread or grow but it didn't die either.

So here's the issue, sps corals faded and monti is actually loosing tissue. What can I do to get the sps what they need? LPS look fine. Should I cold turkey quote NoPox or slowly taper down? How to avoid cyano bloom or Dino? Any advise is appreciated

Kh 9.8
Calcium 500
Magnesium 1650
1.026
78 degrees
Phosphates 0
Nitrates 0

I know everyone says phosphate and nitrate can't be 0 if there's algae. But algae grew before I used NoPox. It hasn't grown anymore so why couldn't nitrate and phosphate at 0?

 

[bertoni]

I'd probably just stop the NoPOx right away, given the tissue recession, but feed lightly for at least a few days. If you see signs of a bloom, just cut back on feeding a bit more.

A measurement of zero for nitrate and phosphate just means the level is below what the kit can detect. I wouldn't pay much attention to statements about what the levels can be if the algae is or isn't growing, etc. We just don't have the equipment to see what is happening at that level. Lots of people have plenty of algae growth with nitrate and phosphate at a measured level of zero.

 

[mcgyvr]

^^Yes..

I'd also consider mechanical removal methods or adding critters that will target that turf algae vs attempting starvation like you are doing.

Nitrate/phosphate are beneficial nutrients needed by all marine life.. Like weeds in your lawn at home you will always starve the good grass before the weeds are effected.

 

[dubmaneh]

^^Yes..

I'd also consider mechanical removal methods or adding critters that will target that turf algae vs attempting starvation like you are doing.

Nitrate/phosphate are beneficial nutrients needed by all marine life.. Like weeds in your lawn at home you will always starve the good grass before the weeds are effected.

These are wise words.

Best thing I ever did was add herbivores and keep low levels of nitrate/phosphate.


Worst thing was getting my phosphate to 0 on the kits.



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[jeffchapok]

These are wise words.

Best thing I ever did was add herbivores and keep low levels of nitrate/phosphate.


Worst thing was getting my phosphate to 0 on the kits.



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I agree. Don't chase numbers -- chase results.

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[wkp42]

Thanks for the advice. How about the pale SPS colors and the monti with peeling flesh. Are they so fragile I should shade them from light? Should I add vitamins to the water column? What can I do to/for corals so they don't completely bleach and die ?

 

[dubmaneh]

Thanks for the advice. How about the pale SPS colors and the monti with peeling flesh. Are they so fragile I should shade them from light? Should I add vitamins to the water column? What can I do to/for corals so they don't completely bleach and die ?

When I was in your situation I dosed amino acids (acropower) to provide some nutrients for the sps. I felt it helped while I got nutrients up to detectable levels. I really don't think it would hurt. If you do this, go slow. It's not a cure. More of damage mitigation.

As tempting as it is to try and "œfix" the melting corals, only time and stability will do that. Your problem wasn't caused overnight. Moving your corals may help but it may also stress them further. Personally if they were doing well before, I'd leave them be.

For me, keeping a journal of my daily feedings helped lock down nutrient input/export balance. Evaluate once a week when you test parameters and make small adjustments. Eventually you'll understand the unique balance in your system and thats when things really thrive.



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[bertoni]

I wouldn't bother with vitamins, but adding some more food might be appropriate at some point. If you have amino acids on hand, they are a fine way to add fixed nitrogen, and they often seem to encourage a feeding response, so they could be added with a bit of coral food.

I wouldn't change the lighting at this point. I don't think it'd help.

 

[five.five-six]

Don’t change lighting

Also, NoPox is very powerful. I’d start with 1/2 the recommended dose.

When I was having algae issues, I read 9ML/day in a 225 gallon tank and I feed a lot... like a shot glass full of pellets daily.

 

[coralcruze2020]

yeah like others have said... no3 and po4 are not good to be at zero too long. if you have been at zero for a short time than just stop dosing or dose less. if its been a long time you could consider dosing no3 and po4.

 

[wkp42]

Would fragging the monti cap that has flesh peeling off help stop it? Cut the white/dead part off? As for the acros, how long does it typically take to get color back?

 

[wkp42]

Would fragging the monti cap that has flesh peeling off help stop it? Cut the white/dead part off? As for the acros, how long does it typically take to get color back?

 

[bertoni]

Fragging it might help. I just don't know for sure. The Acropora might recover in a few weeks, depending on how severe the problem is.

 

[coralcruze2020]

you could also try using crazy glue gel... that seemed to have worked for me a few times. I find once the RTN stops then you can frag the glue off.