STN/RTN help required..

i feel dumb now. i was pretty sure it would've been your alk. but since your alk was stable, your sps still got RTN.

try and get another frag of an sps. and see how it does. if its still rtn then im stumped..
 
well i did a change in pattern of death so to speak. before i would put a sps in and in matter of few hours the skin will be tore up and floating away from all part of the coral. (up top middle and NOT JUST the base). Now that my alk is lower to 7.5-8 range there is no more tear apart of the flesh and corals live longer for weeks before losing color first then start bleaching base up.
i ordered poly filter pads. they arrive tomorrow, i want to keep my alk at 8 and run poly filter for a month then i will try few more sps frags and see what happens.
 
Leds and sps dont mix

Leds and sps dont mix

I have had radions leds for 7 months now and same results. Just added 2 t5 fixtures and seeing brown turning blue. The reef store by me told me he had never seen a sps tank do good only on leds. I did not believe him. But i have lowered my alk from 11 to 9. Got rid of gfo. Tested for phophate and nitrate when it clims up i add nopox for 5 days then it is about.03. So i know its not to clean.i talked to a guy on ebay selling. His radions and he said the same thing. He went to 250 metal halides and boom. No more rtn or browning. So im going to try metal halide and t5. If all your water is fine it must be lights if their is no pest, or alk swings.im going to show pictures of my tank and bleaching and browning under led stony under ecotech marine thread. Good luck and dont give up!
 
I have had radions leds for 7 months now and same results. Just added 2 t5 fixtures and seeing brown turning blue. The reef store by me told me he had never seen a sps tank do good only on leds. I did not believe him. But i have lowered my alk from 11 to 9. Got rid of gfo. Tested for phophate and nitrate when it clims up i add nopox for 5 days then it is about.03. So i know its not to clean.i talked to a guy on ebay selling. His radions and he said the same thing. He went to 250 metal halides and boom. No more rtn or browning. So im going to try metal halide and t5. If all your water is fine it must be lights if their is no pest, or alk swings.im going to show pictures of my tank and bleaching and browning under led stony under ecotech marine thread. Good luck and dont give up!

you know what it does make sense. i had a beautiful 120gal tank sps-acro dominated with 700w of MH and T5 fixture. i had that for 8 yrs never had any problems except everyonce a while changing bulbs might cause a little bleach here and there but since i moved the tank and upgraded to LED i have never been able to keep SPS alive more than few weeks.

UPDATE: i have been holding alk at 7.2-7.5 range steady for last 2 weeks. cal at 420-440 and mag at 1350. all other parameters are 0 (ammo,nit,nitr,phos) salinity at 1.025 temp at 79-80.
Also added a poly filter and it turned tan after few days of use. according to the instructions on poly filter TAN stands for removal of organic material. which is normal.
got rid of gfo and carbon.
So even after all that i bleached 4x 2" sps acros frags that had been in LFS for last 4 months.

I am left with no other explaination except for what LED STONY said. i am starting to believe it is the LED'S.
i am running W 50% B 75% and RB 45% all ramping up over 4 hrs.

any other ideas?
 
i would cut back on the exposure time 12 hours under led's is kinda high are you starting real low and bringing them up slowly ? 12 hours might be stressing them out is your lfs using led's also or metals? could shock them i know mine went thru a similar deal going from metals to t5's and i went from 10 hours to 8 and everything is good and I did get the bad batch of Red Sea Pro salt mixed at 14 didn't catch it and bamm alk hit high started the cycle your in luckily i caught it next water change ..good luck hope it works out you seem to have alot of equipment 3 reactors for gfo wow..
 
If I may ask...what type of carbon were you running before you pulled it?

If it was ROX, then this could be the culprit. In my last tank, I was dosing vodka and when I introduced ROX, SPS slowly receded from the base. I was trying to see just how low I could get my nitrate and phosphates, and in the end it bit me in the $%@. Running so close to nutrient deprivation really leaves little margin for error. You have to ask yourself if you really need carbon dosing. Not everyone does, and apparently you may be one of them. I know that it's all the rage, but I've since stopped and couldn't be happier. While vodka/vinegar dosing, things look like they're doing great while nutrients are dropping, but once you are truly undetectable things seem to go pale, and if alkalinity is too high, they tend to recede from the base up.

Furthermore, I'm not sold on vodka dosing being a great phosphate control method. Many people who have 0 nitrates while dosing vodka have gotten hair algae outbreaks...and I'm one of them. Some of the nicest tanks I've seen keep their nitrates measurable (and below 5) while concentrating on phosphate. In the end, I found that having a proper stocking of fish, and feeding those select fish well is much better and safer than the adage you hear from many vodka dosers saying you can feed more and get more fish. Many vodka dosing tanks have cyano outbreaks throughout the year that have to contended with, and then it just becomes a cycle until the next cyano outbreak. Again, I think it can be done, but it's much more work than it's cracked up to be.

I hope things are on the mend for you.
 
Im with Roger, when I first started reading that jumped out at me...10 hrs (7 at peak intensity) under LEDs is a lot imo. I think reducing the length could yield better results. These corals maybe getting fried up under LEDs. I doubt that the sps frags came from LED lighting and its totally different from any other lighting we use in our tanks. Do you put them at the bottom of the tank or put them all over the tank??

I personally didnt like my AI sol blues...it turned my beautiful tank to ssh*t in 2 mths. However there are people that have good results with them but for me I would rather use my ATI T5s or Radiums.
 
i would cut back on the exposure time 12 hours under led's is kinda high are you starting real low and bringing them up slowly ? 12 hours might be stressing them out is your lfs using led's also or metals? could shock them i know mine went thru a similar deal going from metals to t5's and i went from 10 hours to 8 and everything is good and I did get the bad batch of Red Sea Pro salt mixed at 14 didn't catch it and bamm alk hit high started the cycle your in luckily i caught it next water change ..good luck hope it works out you seem to have alot of equipment 3 reactors for gfo wow..

yes i start at 0 and ramp up to w50 b75 rb45 over 4 hrs and then 4 hrs of 50 75 45 then 2 hrs to ramp down so a total of 10 hrs, but i cut down the mid day to 2 hrs now so 4hrs ramp up 2 mid day and 2 down.
i buy online so not sure what lights sellers have but i do acclimate them starting from low in tank and LED intensities on low.
i batch test all my Freshly made saltwater so i havent had any issues with that.
 
Im with Roger, when I first started reading that jumped out at me...10 hrs (7 at peak intensity) under LEDs is a lot imo. I think reducing the length could yield better results. These corals maybe getting fried up under LEDs. I doubt that the sps frags came from LED lighting and its totally different from any other lighting we use in our tanks. Do you put them at the bottom of the tank or put them all over the tank??

I personally didnt like my AI sol blues...it turned my beautiful tank to ssh*t in 2 mths. However there are people that have good results with them but for me I would rather use my ATI T5s or Radiums.

i am quite sure its the lights as water is perfect in parameters.

so this is my schedule now on lights:

4pm-8pm ramp up 4 hrs from 0 to w50 b75 rb45
8pm-10pm 2 hrs of peak at w55 b75 rb45
10pm-12am 2 hrs ramp down to w0 b0 rb3
12am-2am 2 hrs moon light rb3
2am to 4pm off

thats 4 hrs of ramp up 2 at peak and 2 down total of 8 hrs lets see what happens now.
 
i place the corals on the bottom of the tank. on the sand on a piece of LR in moderate flow.
its so unfortunate and a shame that i write stickys on acclimation of corals on RC and i myself cant figure this out.
 
Something similar happened to me. I have an ati pm w blue led supplements. When I had the leds on for 14 hours w t5s on for 8 hrs, I had trouble w sps color and growth and couldn't grow any coralline anywhere in the tank. When I decreased the leds to 12 and boosted the t5s to 10 hrs I notice a change for the better. I then realized more leds is not necessarily better. I initially liked the pop so I kept it on for late night viewing, bad mistake.
 
I want to see a study of different leds and their performance and lighting schedule on the same water chemistry. This seems like important information that would help clear up much of the confusion that surrounds LEDS.

over a 3 mth period have 3 different tanks with 3 different LEDs fixture on each of the tank with the same SPS frags in each of the tanks. Each tank having a different lighting schedule.

So much of the LED information is hobbiest trial and error. I dont recall any LED manufacturer stating the schedule and intensity level.
 
Stevedola: i can tell you from my own personal experience, i had a 120gal in wall in the same spot my current 240 is. with everything the same except lights,
I had MH on that tank and i grow every type of coral with no problem and they all grow in size over short period of time. light schedule there was also 10 hr.
setup being in garage got too hot so i moved to led.
since i got the LED and upgraded the tank to 240 i have had no luck with SPS. i did cut the lights to 6-8 hrs schedule with no other supplimental lights.
lets see what happens now.
 
Bleaching from the bottom up seems like lack of nutrition to me. Too much bacterial activity, sudden change in phosphate values or too low phosphate are typical causes of this. On the other hand, bleaching from top to bottom is generally means a problem with light source.

Did you lower your phosphate too quickly, did you add all of your gfo reactors at the same time, did you changed their media at the same time?

Did you add vodka or any other carbon source, did you add bacteria culture ?
 
Did you lower your phosphate too quickly, did you add all of your gfo reactors at the same time, did you changed their media at the same time?
Did you add vodka or any other carbon source, did you add bacteria culture ?

3 gfo reactors have been in place since the start of the tank even through the cycle. i change 1 reactor media every 2 months.
no vodka dosing no bacteria cultures. there are 2 carbon reactors also in place since day one and change 1 reactor media every 2 months as well.

after all this episode i did cut the reactors off gfo and carbon. and changed my lighting schedules to lower hours.
 
Reading through this thread and having some similar issues with SPS... did you get this sorted out yet?
 
yes i did get it sorted. i had to send my tanks water to a professional lab and spend $800 to find out the great stuff foam that i used \leeched out some chemical in to the water. if using the great stuff foam use the pond version or if u do use regular foam then cure it by leaving dry for 1 month.
i was told to change 100% of the water and continue doing 30% water change per week for next few months. then send the water back in for second round of test to make sure.
anyways after 100% water change and now 8 x 35 gal changes i am few months into after lab test. all my zoas are starting to open back up and i placed a SPS frag in my tank 2 days ago and it seems to be happier and happier everyday but i am keeping my fingers crossed.

Here is foam constituents:
Chemical CAS No / Unique ID Percent
Propane 000074-98-6 1-5
Isobutane 000075-28-5 5-10
Methylene bisphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) 000101-68-8 5-10
Dimethyl ether 000115-10-6 1-5
MDI (polymeric) 009016-87-9 10-30
Tri-(2-chloroisopropyl)phosphate 013674-84-5 5-10
Isocyanic acid, polymethylenepolyphenylene ester, polymer with alpha-hydro-omega-hydroxypoly(oxy(methyl-1,2-ethanediyl))
053862-89-8 15-40
Polymethylenepolyphenylisocyanate, propoxylated glycerin polymer
057029-46-6 15-40
Chlorinated paraffin waxes 063449-39-8 5-10
 
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