Stop parasite or Ruby Reef Ick Kick - Reef Saf ich medications?
- Thread starter johns
- Start date
i'm pretty sure that if you don't treat all of the fish, the ick remains in the tank...even if the other fish aren't symptomatic. this is how a severe stress, like a good chill or something, leads to an ick outbreak in an otherwise healthy appearing tank.
the way i see it, the only way to really and truly get rid of ick once it's in your tank is to treat the whole tank, or remove the fish for treatment and allow the show tank to run fallow for 4-6 weeks. basically you're doing the same thing as quarantining the fish from the beginning would have accomplished!
so, even if you cure your wrasse in q. right now, he may catch it again when you put him back in the main tank.
having never treated fish with garlic, etc., i can't comment on its effectiveness. there's certainly enough anectodal evidence to support it. in my experience, leaving fish to fight off ick on their own is an eventual death sentence to the fish.
my fish still show signs of ick. i'll keep ya posted.
the way i see it, the only way to really and truly get rid of ick once it's in your tank is to treat the whole tank, or remove the fish for treatment and allow the show tank to run fallow for 4-6 weeks. basically you're doing the same thing as quarantining the fish from the beginning would have accomplished!
so, even if you cure your wrasse in q. right now, he may catch it again when you put him back in the main tank.
having never treated fish with garlic, etc., i can't comment on its effectiveness. there's certainly enough anectodal evidence to support it. in my experience, leaving fish to fight off ick on their own is an eventual death sentence to the fish.
my fish still show signs of ick. i'll keep ya posted.
johns
Premium Member
Premium Aquatics sells fish traps. If you really want to get him out, that is probably your best bet.
I wonder if anyone has some experience with these traps to know how they work and if they are worth the money. Something tells me I will be continually catching the more 'curious' tank inhabitants (like cleaner shrimp, clowns) before I can catch the more cautious yellow wrasse.
toonces-
I'm all too familiar with what you're saying. Don't want to rehash everything I have been saying, but I'm left with very few options here. Regardless of how non-PC it may seem, I just can't sacrifice or risk all the corals and the rest of the tank inhabitants for the fish either.
I wonder if anyone has some experience with these traps to know how they work and if they are worth the money. Something tells me I will be continually catching the more 'curious' tank inhabitants (like cleaner shrimp, clowns) before I can catch the more cautious yellow wrasse.
toonces-
I'm all too familiar with what you're saying. Don't want to rehash everything I have been saying, but I'm left with very few options here. Regardless of how non-PC it may seem, I just can't sacrifice or risk all the corals and the rest of the tank inhabitants for the fish either.
johns
Premium Member
I didnt wind up buying or using any of those products, so I dont have an opinion. I tried quarantine and hyposalinity.
The labouti finally died in quarantine, although I dont know (but I doubt) that it was due to the treatment itself. Too many other factors going on there. None of the other fish in my display ever cam down with the disease.
The labouti finally died in quarantine, although I dont know (but I doubt) that it was due to the treatment itself. Too many other factors going on there. None of the other fish in my display ever cam down with the disease.
I'm totally agree with "toonces" on his suggestion and definitely understand what you are going through. I'm just a novice to this thing and am already suffered w/ too many things: white spots, bristle worm, and now I see some kind of bugs that I do not know about, and etc.
Since I started to notice the outbreak in my fish tank, I'd found that a few of my fish had white spots on them already. Some of them had only minor spots, but I was freaking out and pretty much moving all of them to a quarantine tank.
My quarantine tank has no substrate in it because I understand that with no substrate in the tank, this parasite won't be able to complete its life cycle and will die out. However, based on my research on the internet, some people suggest that the parasite will still be able to complete its life cycle pretty much on anything even small debris. This claim leaves me hopeless on how to cure my fish.
Anyhow, I'm using the product called ich attack by Kordon. I don't think it is sufficient, but it is only one product available at my LFS.
Based on my experience, I don't recommend you to move your fish that has only minor white spots on them and put into quarantine tank (especially, when your quarantine tank has no substrate). It is very sad for me that I have done that because I have quarantined 6 fish altogether. Some of them were actually looking pretty healthy with white spot before I moved them into quarantine tank. After I placed them in quarantine tank, they were very stress and 4 of them stop eating at all. Unfortunately, I lost 3 of of them. And I can see that I'm about to lose another one of them if I don't put it back to the main tank.
Then I took another approach by giving them a freshwater dip. I really think it helps. I can actually see some white spots drop off the skin. You can give them a freshwater dip every 3 days until the white spot is gone combining with the use of Kick Ich medication, which targets on killing parasite during its swiming stage. Moving fish from one place to another empty place can cause real stress to fish and that's why I lost 3 healthy looking fish. Oh, btw feeding your fish with garlic extract can increase its immune system against disease as well.
I'll be happy to discuss any other ideas that different from me.
Since I started to notice the outbreak in my fish tank, I'd found that a few of my fish had white spots on them already. Some of them had only minor spots, but I was freaking out and pretty much moving all of them to a quarantine tank.
My quarantine tank has no substrate in it because I understand that with no substrate in the tank, this parasite won't be able to complete its life cycle and will die out. However, based on my research on the internet, some people suggest that the parasite will still be able to complete its life cycle pretty much on anything even small debris. This claim leaves me hopeless on how to cure my fish.
Anyhow, I'm using the product called ich attack by Kordon. I don't think it is sufficient, but it is only one product available at my LFS.
Based on my experience, I don't recommend you to move your fish that has only minor white spots on them and put into quarantine tank (especially, when your quarantine tank has no substrate). It is very sad for me that I have done that because I have quarantined 6 fish altogether. Some of them were actually looking pretty healthy with white spot before I moved them into quarantine tank. After I placed them in quarantine tank, they were very stress and 4 of them stop eating at all. Unfortunately, I lost 3 of of them. And I can see that I'm about to lose another one of them if I don't put it back to the main tank.
Then I took another approach by giving them a freshwater dip. I really think it helps. I can actually see some white spots drop off the skin. You can give them a freshwater dip every 3 days until the white spot is gone combining with the use of Kick Ich medication, which targets on killing parasite during its swiming stage. Moving fish from one place to another empty place can cause real stress to fish and that's why I lost 3 healthy looking fish. Oh, btw feeding your fish with garlic extract can increase its immune system against disease as well.
I'll be happy to discuss any other ideas that different from me.
headjigger
New member
Check out this thread
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=907034&highlight=kick+ich
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=907034&highlight=kick+ich
ufchristyb
New member
Actually, there is no point in treating one sick fish with hypo if you are putting it back into an infected system, since he will most likely become reinfected. The only way to permanently solve your problem is to pull all of your fish out, treat them, and let your tank sit fallow for at least 8 weeks.
That being said, many people's tanks always have small amounts of ich present on their fish with no fatalities. They keep their water quality and nutrition up and seem to avoid catastrophe. I believe Steven Pro (think it was his article) has suggested that their might be a natural immunity that develops to it.
By the way, you need to be extremely careful with what chemicals you expose your mandarin to, they cannot tolerate much at all.
--Christy
That being said, many people's tanks always have small amounts of ich present on their fish with no fatalities. They keep their water quality and nutrition up and seem to avoid catastrophe. I believe Steven Pro (think it was his article) has suggested that their might be a natural immunity that develops to it.
By the way, you need to be extremely careful with what chemicals you expose your mandarin to, they cannot tolerate much at all.
--Christy
