Sustaining good plankton levels.

Super small update, the phytoplankton actually is working?, my nitrates plummeted to an ultra low number, it was not my scrubber removing the nitrate as I dried the screen out and decided to restart it, previously I had low flow and insufficient lighting.
Also noticing better polyp extension.
 
Starting this up again.
I have had some huge changes, the 60 gallon reef I own has gone completely photosynthetic, I had given up on these corals for a while.

I am starting up a new 200 gallon system though.
The system is a 120 gallon drilled hagen tank, connected to a 75 gallon sump which includes a algae scrubber, ato, dosing pump and a bio pellet reactor ( I do not have the reactor yet )

I also have a 30 gallon tank plumbed into the system, it will have a deep sand bed with tube anemone colonies.

I plan on making some form of flow similar to a closed loop.
Lighting will be dim blue led.
I am also trying to create some form of plankton filter and could use some input.
Pictures will be up later
 
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I have figured out that my best option for the new tank is HNNL ( high nutrient, no light ).
The idea behind this is what happens in the ocean, the deeper you go the more sediment/marine snow will accumulate, meaning higher nutrients, but since there is little light in deeper parts of the ocean, algaes and certain bacterias can not overwhelm the corals and surrounding areas.
In my tank I want high nutrients ( not exactly nitrates and phosphates ), such as phytoplankton, rotifers, bio film, and even minerals such as iron to promote plankton growth.
Since there is going to be a large amount of nutrients entering the system, I need to remove the inorganic materials, such as nitrate and phosphate. I will be using a large algae scrubber.

I have also utilized my aqua medic plankton reactor into the system, every week or so powdered coral food is added into the reactor, mixed up and then it drains into the return line, this will evenly disperse it among the corals.

So far mass amounts of copepods and other forms of zooplankton have been growing and reproducing in my aquarium.

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I like the idea, but I have a few questions.

Are you blacking out the tank with paper, or other non-light penetrating material? While I like the ideas that NPS corals live in high nutrient light-less (or extremely low light) environments, I have the feeling that even the little light from the ambient room light in such a system might prove problematic. I have no data to support that claim, but this is merely my hypothesis.

However, running a turf scrubber should help reduce algae causing nutrients, thereby keeping your display cleaner.

When I finally get around to setting up my tank, my ideas have been very similar to yours - providing a lot of nutrition for the corals while reducing disolved organics through the ATS.

The one thing you didn't mention much about was feeding - what are you feeding? One of the ideas I have is to try to use a lot of natural food - i.e. larval shrimp. I will be feeding a lot of meaty foods mixed into the water column that will end up in the sump. In the sump, I will have an army of peppermint shrimp eating the food that otherwise would rot, then they will produce batches of larval shrimp on a nearly nightly basis providing food back into the tank. If it works like I want it to, it should be a really fun way to keep nutrients in the tank in a good, usable form.
 
I have never thought about the lower light levels in deep water where many NPS corals live but in many cases, that is true. I hope that I have a handle on nutrients.

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I am on my third high nutrient tank. The first was a filter feeder tank that ran well for about 8 or 10 years before I relocated. My second high nutrient tank set up ran well for about another 10 years.

I am starting over on my third tank after a crash that was caused by a self inflicted mechanical malfunction in the auto top-off system that started at the beginning of a vacation trip. I have hardware and rock and am rebuilding. I am getting ready to start a revamp of the aquascaping with less live rock.

In this second set up, I wanted to keep up with the N & P nutrients while feeding at extra high levels. I had too much rock in the tank and in a sump ...and I also use vodka for a short time. Despite having a happy healthy tank, my biggest problem with my second set up was that I had too much bacteria so that my algae coralline growth slowed and my scrubber didn't work as well as I would have liked.

This time I am having more faith in my first high nutrient tank. We didn't have enough food knowledge to work on the true NPS corals so we called them filter feeder tanks. I put tons of food in my old tank once a day. Just before "lights out", I would put so much food in the tank that I couldn't see 5 inches past the glass.

I never had nitrate or phosphate issues with my well designed ATS. I even added fish fertilizer when the tank ran too lean. Unfortunately, I got scared and tried lots of other things on my second set up because I read all the horror stories with these new fangled NPS tanks. After reading a book by the inventor in the early 90's, I designed my old scrubber, incorporating the applicable principles from the book and it worked great for me.

After reading about people using skimmers...and GFO ...and vodka ....and cheato ....and water changes too boot, I am just going to go to, what is for me, "old school". I'm going back to the same scrubber that was in set up one and two.

Don't get me wrong, all that other stuff works and works quite well but since I know how to get the most out of my scrubber, I will stick with it.

I am thinking that if an ATS doesn't work, it is probably too small or badly designed. It probably just needs to be bigger ...with more light and/or more surface area and/or more turbulent water flow. Those are the three basics of these contraptions.

Now for lighting, I am really trying to keep it off of the glass. I bought two of those 50 watt Chinese flood lamps with all blue LED's to get a deeper blue look. I have yanks out the T5 actinics because, for me, the light is to defuse. It goes everywhere, with no shimmer. I am working on designing light barriers that will do a good job of directing the light, only where I want it. Later, I will work on the white lighting.

As for feeding, I am working on a small zooplankton farm in the garage and plan to use peristaltic pumps to bomb the tank all day and night.

Unfortunately, I have not been able to spend any time on that stuff. I am better at designing than building.
 
I like the idea, but I have a few questions.

Are you blacking out the tank with paper, or other non-light penetrating material? While I like the ideas that NPS corals live in high nutrient light-less (or extremely low light) environments, I have the feeling that even the little light from the ambient room light in such a system might prove problematic. I have no data to support that claim, but this is merely my hypothesis.

However, running a turf scrubber should help reduce algae causing nutrients, thereby keeping your display cleaner.

When I finally get around to setting up my tank, my ideas have been very similar to yours - providing a lot of nutrition for the corals while reducing disolved organics through the ATS.

The one thing you didn't mention much about was feeding - what are you feeding? One of the ideas I have is to try to use a lot of natural food - i.e. larval shrimp. I will be feeding a lot of meaty foods mixed into the water column that will end up in the sump. In the sump, I will have an army of peppermint shrimp eating the food that otherwise would rot, then they will produce batches of larval shrimp on a nearly nightly basis providing food back into the tank. If it works like I want it to, it should be a really fun way to keep nutrients in the tank in a good, usable form.

The tank is setup in a storage room, when the lights are turned off, it is pitch black. I plan on rarely turning on the lights. I may add a few blue LEDs to the tank, for the viewers appeal.
For food I am trying to create a aquarium were there is a sufficient plankton supply, I will attempt this by adding large amounts of phytoplankton ( tetra ),
keeping a low flow tank for the plankton and corals sake, along with running filtration that wont remove the plankton, but encourage its growth.
Until I know there is enough for the corals, I will be feeding things like coral frenzy and live zooplankton.
 
I am Trying to make a wavemaker that will go off once or twice a day, I want a strong burst of flow to remove settled detritus, anyone know any DIY wavemaker plans?
 
No I use a dump bucket but that won't be strong enough.

How are you going to pump the water? Are you just going to use standard pumps very sparingly so that you don't kill the plankton?
 
No I use a dump bucket but that won't be strong enough.

How are you going to pump the water? Are you just going to use standard pumps very sparingly so that you don't kill the plankton?

I was not to worried about the pump, but you bring up a good question, will it harm the plankton?, maybe I can create a wave maker powered by air?
 
For all of you just tuning in.
My NPS reef will be running on these principles, HNNL ( high nutrients no light ).
By nutrients I really mean food, phytoplankton, detritus, bio film, etc. The most vital "nutrient" in the tank will be phytoplankton, In the ocean phytoplankton is the very base of the food chain. Phytoplankton feeds zooplankton and various other things, which intern feeds coral and other filter feeders that we strive to keep in the home aquarium.
I plan on going through about five litres a week of phytoplankton, It may sound like a lot, but in this type of tank, there must be ample food supply.
The next food supply is detritus, from my understanding detritus is a huge part of the filter feeding food chain, all of the marine snow/dead matter from above flows down into the "abyss", feeding corals and other invertebrates.
I will add detritus into the water column with pumps, what I mean by this is every tank has a build up of detritus in the sump, when there is a sustainable amount, I will create a "detritus storm" in the aquarium with water pumps.
This process can be automated.
I Also add in live brine shrimp every so often.
With all this nutrients in the water, my algae scrubber will work great. I also will add a bio pellet reactor, they are very beneficial to a nps tank without a skimmer, all of the bio film released by the bacteria makes a great food source.

Again, to everyone reading this thread, feel free to chime in with past experiences and ideas, that is the whole point of this thread.
 
I am actually thinking of a high powered air lift, any ideas?
Oh... I'm sorry. I though you were talking about a nutrient pump for feeding. You're referring to a return pump - as in water from sump back to DT. In that case, an airlift sounds perfect.

I'd heartily recommend one of these professional grade mid-sized diaphragm pumps. They blow a TON of air, dead silent, and work for years with zero maintenance. And you can't beat the price. I've got one that I've never had to touch, other than placing a matt under it. They are silent, but do vibrate a bit, which can be easily damped - nothing near like the vibration of a large air-cooled water pump.
 
I know at work when we moved a few months ago we had a giant peristallic pump (dosing pump on steroids) that was used for blood flow models that would have worked great for your application. Unfortunately it didn't work and went into the trash, but at least that tells me something out there exists. I'll see if anyone remembers the make/model.

edit: I know this isn't the model we had, but an example that it definitely exists: http://lsmpumpsusa.com/
 
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