The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you have some Coralvues I can test them.
T5 lamp PAR readings
- Thread starter The Grim Reefer
- Start date
If you have some Coralvues I can test them.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
He has some 'sun' bulbs downstairs... I think they are old GE 6500Ks, othewise all the rest are CoralVue... the blue and actinic, up and downstairs. He doesnt want to pay up for the ATI's.
babyblues71
New member
URI T5s?
URI T5s?
Supposedly, UV lighting now carries URI T5s, such as Actinic White and Super Actinic blue bulbs. Seeing as how URI's bulbs have always had good VHO's, I was curious if you've tested or heard anything about their new T5's. I know of a local shop that only uses URI's VHO's and their tanks are some of the most amazing tanks I've seen.
Brent
URI T5s?
Supposedly, UV lighting now carries URI T5s, such as Actinic White and Super Actinic blue bulbs. Seeing as how URI's bulbs have always had good VHO's, I was curious if you've tested or heard anything about their new T5's. I know of a local shop that only uses URI's VHO's and their tanks are some of the most amazing tanks I've seen.
Brent
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
UVL IS URI, they changed their name. Their Actinic T5 is nice. The others are not as high output as ATI's. I like the Aquasun for the red in the spectrum but as far as I can tell the actinic white is worthless.
babyblues71
New member
Thanks for the reply. I suppose I should've read the entire thread in order to determine what UVL actually stood for. 
I've been hearing conflicting results about UVL's actinic whites and the aquasuns (But all good things from their actinic blue). Some people like the way Aquasuns bring out reds and yellow, and others think the bulb cast appears too yellow overall. Others think the actinic white has too much of a pinkish hue "but", in the lfs store that uses a combo of actinic white and actinic blue VHO URI's, the coral growth and definitely coralline growth is amazing. He just drips Two little fishies Kalk, uses natural seawater, and uses those bulbs and that's it. I've never seen so much coralline growth, and those tanks are bright, too! So...no matter what I know I'll go with the UVL actinic blues since they're supposedly similar in performance as their VHO's, but as for the other bulbs, I'm not sure. I have 4 bulbs to work with. Recommendations are one thing, but seeing them in action (At least with VHO's) is another. I've also heard, although I'm not sure that this is true, that a tank's nutrients aren't "as much" of a problem concerning cyano outbreaks if the lighting spectrum isn't as far "to the red" spectrum, but I don't have any proof to back that up, just hearsay. It also could be more of an intensity thing, as well. More light near the red spectrum like 6,500Ks, etc. is usually brighter. More PAR+nutrients=more cyano if the conditions are right. Yet, on the other hand, I don't want a tank to be all blue either. So...still contemplating.
Brent
Brent
I've been hearing conflicting results about UVL's actinic whites and the aquasuns (But all good things from their actinic blue). Some people like the way Aquasuns bring out reds and yellow, and others think the bulb cast appears too yellow overall. Others think the actinic white has too much of a pinkish hue "but", in the lfs store that uses a combo of actinic white and actinic blue VHO URI's, the coral growth and definitely coralline growth is amazing. He just drips Two little fishies Kalk, uses natural seawater, and uses those bulbs and that's it. I've never seen so much coralline growth, and those tanks are bright, too! So...no matter what I know I'll go with the UVL actinic blues since they're supposedly similar in performance as their VHO's, but as for the other bulbs, I'm not sure. I have 4 bulbs to work with. Recommendations are one thing, but seeing them in action (At least with VHO's) is another. I've also heard, although I'm not sure that this is true, that a tank's nutrients aren't "as much" of a problem concerning cyano outbreaks if the lighting spectrum isn't as far "to the red" spectrum, but I don't have any proof to back that up, just hearsay. It also could be more of an intensity thing, as well. More light near the red spectrum like 6,500Ks, etc. is usually brighter. More PAR+nutrients=more cyano if the conditions are right. Yet, on the other hand, I don't want a tank to be all blue either. So...still contemplating.Brent
Brent
-TS-Vash
Member
I am confused how is it that a 150 watt hqi de bulb lets just say like mine according to sanjays web site has a par or 29 while my T5 ho bulbs D&D/Giesemann bulbs have a par of 300 or more.
Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Actinic Plus 264
Pure Actinic 157
I mean is the hqi bulb really 29 while my T5 bulb is 324?
If so why do metal halide bulbs even sell any more?
I run 2 HQI giesemann nova II pendants 150 watts each with 20k bulbs.
And a 4 54 watt T5 HO fixture with 1 aquablue 2 actinic plus and 1 pure actinic bulbs.
Should i sell my HQIs and get all T5s? I dont care about the look of metal halide bulbs.
Midday 325
Aquablue 324
Actinic Plus 264
Pure Actinic 157
I mean is the hqi bulb really 29 while my T5 bulb is 324?
If so why do metal halide bulbs even sell any more?
I run 2 HQI giesemann nova II pendants 150 watts each with 20k bulbs.
And a 4 54 watt T5 HO fixture with 1 aquablue 2 actinic plus and 1 pure actinic bulbs.
Should i sell my HQIs and get all T5s? I dont care about the look of metal halide bulbs.
hahnmeister
In Memoriam
I dont think anywhere on Sanjay's site does it say the PAR is 29.... Sanjay posts his results in PPFD... not the same scale or unit of measure as PAR. But yes, T5s do give MH a run for the money... these new ATI units pretty much nail the coffin shut on MH. MH vs. T5, case closed.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
You can't compare Sanjay's PAR readings to others because it is a completely difference test setup. PPFD and PAR are the same thing. Difference is Sanjay measures PAR from a greater distance away from the metal halide lamp than I do from T5 fluorescents.
Suffice it to sat the T5's will spank most any 150 watt halide system.
Hahn,
You are confusing the reflector tests with the lamptest. It's when Sanjay tests reflectors that he does the accumulative(sp?) readings. He is still measuring PAR, he just measures it over a given area taking numerous readings which gives you a better picture of the reflectors overall effectivness, looking at the big picture as it were.
Suffice it to sat the T5's will spank most any 150 watt halide system.
Hahn,
You are confusing the reflector tests with the lamptest. It's when Sanjay tests reflectors that he does the accumulative(sp?) readings. He is still measuring PAR, he just measures it over a given area taking numerous readings which gives you a better picture of the reflectors overall effectivness, looking at the big picture as it were.
babyblues71
New member
How would this look in a 4 light setup? I'm really curious about the coloration of the tank overall with this kind of setup.
1. UVL Aquasun (All 10K)
2. UVL Super Actinic (All 420NM Actinic--03)
3. ATI Aquablue special (1/2 blue, 1/2 full spectrum--ps-6.5K or 10K full spectrum?)
4. ATI Blue Plus (1/2 blue, 1/2 actinic 03)
If I was to go by ratios, it looks like this would give me:
1. 10K--1.5 (Unless the full spectrum in the aquablue special is only 6.5K)
2. Actinic 03--1.5
3. Blue-1
How would the colors look with this kind of setup? Has anyone tried this setup? Not enough full spectrum? Trying to find the best bet for growth "and" color, and I'm really partial to UVL's bulbs.
Another possibility is:
2 UVL Aquasuns
1 UVL Super actinic
1 AquaZ Blue Pro or SunPaq Blue
That'd give me:
10K--2
Actinic 03-1
Blue-1
Brent
1. UVL Aquasun (All 10K)
2. UVL Super Actinic (All 420NM Actinic--03)
3. ATI Aquablue special (1/2 blue, 1/2 full spectrum--ps-6.5K or 10K full spectrum?)
4. ATI Blue Plus (1/2 blue, 1/2 actinic 03)
If I was to go by ratios, it looks like this would give me:
1. 10K--1.5 (Unless the full spectrum in the aquablue special is only 6.5K)
2. Actinic 03--1.5
3. Blue-1
How would the colors look with this kind of setup? Has anyone tried this setup? Not enough full spectrum? Trying to find the best bet for growth "and" color, and I'm really partial to UVL's bulbs.
Another possibility is:
2 UVL Aquasuns
1 UVL Super actinic
1 AquaZ Blue Pro or SunPaq Blue
That'd give me:
10K--2
Actinic 03-1
Blue-1
Brent
Hi Grim I have a couple of questions for you that I hope you can clear up for me.
I have a 180 gal 6'x2'x2'. I also have a hood that is made of wood that is 10 1/2 'from inside top to the water line.
So I am looking for a retro kit to go inside of it. I also have 2 4" fans on the sides of the hood.
I am going to change my current set of of 2 400w mh and 2 160w ho to t5 bulb set up.
My question is should I use 6 80w 5' bulbs or 6 54w 4' bulbs? I plan on using 2 icecap 660 ballast for either the 54 or 80w. How high can the t5 be from the water and still be effective enough to support my lps and some sps that are now towards the top?
I understand that my choice of bulbs are limited for the 80w. But I want my lps and some sps to continue to grow and be healthy. I have read about many different bulb setups for the 54w. What do you suggest for the 80w bulbs? Or do I need the 80w?
Also could you compare the amount of heat t5 will produce to say vho and mh to my current set up?
I know this is kind of long and I appreciate all the help you can give me. Thank you in advance icbic
I have a 180 gal 6'x2'x2'. I also have a hood that is made of wood that is 10 1/2 'from inside top to the water line.
So I am looking for a retro kit to go inside of it. I also have 2 4" fans on the sides of the hood.
I am going to change my current set of of 2 400w mh and 2 160w ho to t5 bulb set up.
My question is should I use 6 80w 5' bulbs or 6 54w 4' bulbs? I plan on using 2 icecap 660 ballast for either the 54 or 80w. How high can the t5 be from the water and still be effective enough to support my lps and some sps that are now towards the top?
I understand that my choice of bulbs are limited for the 80w. But I want my lps and some sps to continue to grow and be healthy. I have read about many different bulb setups for the 54w. What do you suggest for the 80w bulbs? Or do I need the 80w?
Also could you compare the amount of heat t5 will produce to say vho and mh to my current set up?
I know this is kind of long and I appreciate all the help you can give me. Thank you in advance icbic
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
All Aquasuns would look butt ugly, all super actinic would be a bit eerie and have low PAR, All aquablue would be OK, you would have a ton of PAR and a OK look. All Blue Plus would be a 20K radium look with pretty good PAR.
1 Aquasun 1 Aquablue 1 Super Actinic and 1 Blue Plus or Blue pro would be a fairly white with a slight blue tint.
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The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Vash
you have to take the brand and color of the lamp, the ballast and reflector and how high it is ran off the water into consideretion.
My halide fixture was originally 150 watt. I used BLV 10K 150's (the highest output 150 Sanjay had tested) on magentic HQI ballasts and when new I got 92 PAR with the fixture an 1 inch above the tank. The 20K lamps that came with the fixture did low 60's.
A basic 4 lamp Tek T5 will beat that and look better. running 2 aquablues and 2 actinic plus lamps I got 135 using Ice Cap reflectors. With Tek reflectors it would have been in the low 100'w.
you have to take the brand and color of the lamp, the ballast and reflector and how high it is ran off the water into consideretion.
My halide fixture was originally 150 watt. I used BLV 10K 150's (the highest output 150 Sanjay had tested) on magentic HQI ballasts and when new I got 92 PAR with the fixture an 1 inch above the tank. The 20K lamps that came with the fixture did low 60's.
A basic 4 lamp Tek T5 will beat that and look better. running 2 aquablues and 2 actinic plus lamps I got 135 using Ice Cap reflectors. With Tek reflectors it would have been in the low 100'w.
-TS-Vash
Member
Its a Giesemann nova II with a magentic HQI ballasts and 150 watt coralvue 20k bulb. any idea what the par would be? Also on sanjays site is he testing the par in the water or far away from the light? I didnt see any thing that said where the light was tested at.
My T5 fixture is the nova extream T5 ho with 4 54 watt bulbs.
I have moded the fan so the fixture has a 11 cfm 5500 rpm metal ball bearing fan i cut out the plastic fan cover and switched the nice chrome cover thats on the inside to the outside to protect the fan so the fan does not have any thing blocking it so its quite and very cool. I also have 1 aquablue 2 Actinic Plus and 1 Pure Actinic bulbs all Giesemann.
What do you think my par could be on that fixture? I know better reflectors would help alot but how much? Thanks for taking the time to answer my other questions.
My T5 fixture is the nova extream T5 ho with 4 54 watt bulbs.
I have moded the fan so the fixture has a 11 cfm 5500 rpm metal ball bearing fan i cut out the plastic fan cover and switched the nice chrome cover thats on the inside to the outside to protect the fan so the fan does not have any thing blocking it so its quite and very cool. I also have 1 aquablue 2 Actinic Plus and 1 Pure Actinic bulbs all Giesemann.
What do you think my par could be on that fixture? I know better reflectors would help alot but how much? Thanks for taking the time to answer my other questions.
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hahnmeister
In Memoriam
Grim, I came across some inside info on a German site. If you think the ATIs are nice, check out the Sylvania NARVAs. I suppose they are what the ATIs are half-rate copies of. They are supposed to be better than the AquaSCience even.
babyblues71
New member
Grim,
Thanks for the response. PS--I never heard you say good or bad things about the Current Sunpaq/Slimpaq bulbs being used in single reflector systems. How do the actinic 460, actinic 420 (Found a site that sells these), and 10K daylight stack up visually?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113907
I see PAR ratings for the blue and the 10K on this thread--looks like the blue is up there for a blue bulb at 252 (Although I know that doesn't mean it's the right spectrum, of course). 10K looks to be the lowest of the bunch. No specs on the 420NM on this thread.
Brent
Thanks for the response. PS--I never heard you say good or bad things about the Current Sunpaq/Slimpaq bulbs being used in single reflector systems. How do the actinic 460, actinic 420 (Found a site that sells these), and 10K daylight stack up visually?
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113907
I see PAR ratings for the blue and the 10K on this thread--looks like the blue is up there for a blue bulb at 252 (Although I know that doesn't mean it's the right spectrum, of course). 10K looks to be the lowest of the bunch. No specs on the 420NM on this thread.
Brent
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I am going from memory here but I think the Aquascience is the same lamps as the new ATI's. ATI's are made by Osram, as in Osram-Sylvania. Narva is a manufacturer who built the old ATI's and as far as I know is still making the D&D Geisemann T5's..
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
The blues are OK. Not sure how they will hold up but the look was there.
babyblues71
New member
Thanks! If you ever get a par reading on a Slimpaq/Sunpaq 420NM let me know. I know I've seen them before (PC versions), and they're definitely a purplish tint when looking at the bulb, so the spectrum is there, but brightness didn't seem to be that special, especially next to the blue bulb. At least not in the PC 420NM Sunpaq's. Can't say I've seen the T5's other than Dr. Foster's web site. I didn't even know they were making T5 versions of that bulb until I stumbled on them....
Brent
Brent
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