Tang stocking 190

Dbondaruk

New member
I'm stocking my 190, it is 60"27"27" dimensions. I curruntly have a kole tang in there right now....
I need help on how I should add them and what steps I should take. I know the best way would be all at once but that will not be possible for me to add all the tangs at once.here are the tangs I want to add.

Kole tang (he is already in the tank)
Powder Blue
Purple
Achillies tang(not set on this one for sure)
Powder brown tang(maybe if I do not decide to get a Achilles
 
First question would be did you QT the Kole tang before it was added to the DT? If the answer is no then I would rule out the Achilles. AT are ich magnets and if the Kole wasn't QTed then the AT will develop ich without a doubt. Out of the list you have my favorite is the AT, but I would go with the purple if it were me
 
Thx, no the Kole tang was in my 40 g for 6 months. Now I transferred him to the 190,I have seen ick on him before so I cannot say it is ick free, I did qt him for a little before my 40 gallon but I guess I didn't do that great of a job.
 
Am not sure if the powder blue & the powder brown will coexist in a 5' tank... Given same body type & aggression...

Not to mention the achilles being exactly the same as the other 2 aside from colour. In that size tank i say 3 long term, 1 acanthurus ( powder blue or powder brown. achilles needs a bigger tank ) , 1 zebrasoma ( purple ) and your kole.
 
First question would be did you QT the Kole tang before it was added to the DT? If the answer is no then I would rule out the Achilles. AT are ich magnets and if the Kole wasn't QTed then the AT will develop ich without a doubt. Out of the list you have my favorite is the AT, but I would go with the purple if it were me

question? how does the mere fact that the Kole not being QTed rule out the AT, and that it will "without a doubt" develop ich?
 
I have kept Achilles and PB many times, but never could manage it particularly well in the same tank at the same time. Plus, 5 foot tank is small for an AT, certainly, and probably for either of the powders too. AT, Powder blue and brown, and the Regal/hippo are all ich magnets. I guess nothings for sure, but if an aquarium has latent ich, the AT will be among the first to let you know.
 
question? how does the mere fact that the Kole not being QTed rule out the AT, and that it will "without a doubt" develop ich?

Since the AT are the most ich prone fish in the saltwater trade and cost 200$ each for small ones it wouldn't make a bit of sense to get one to watch it develop ich and either be put into a QT far too small for it, with lack of flow or you could let it go and maybe the tang gets over it for now but it won't last long term. Point is if your not going to do everything the "correct" way with a AT then don't get one at all. There is a reason LA and all other places list them as a expert only fish. If the Kole was QTed or TT or something done to rid the fish of ich, it is in the DT. All fish that come from a supplier have ich or have been in contact with ich and just because you don't see outward signs of it doesn't mean it is there. Think what I'm saying is wrong, then get a AT put it in your DT and let me know how many hrs go by before you start seeing white spots
 
I agree with all the comments regarding the need to QT these fish. Three other more docile species that I have in my reef and you could consider include the Atlantic blue tang, mimic yellow (A. pyroferus), and the Chevron. The Chevron like it's cousin the Kole is a great grazer. My Atlantics and mimic yellows do well for algae control also and don't seem as Ick prone as the powder blue/browns. I agree that adding them together is best. You can use an acclimation box when first introducing them as well.
 
I agree with the above posters, not only on the quarantine issue, but the purple tang is the only one on your list that suits that tank size IMHO, and even that might need rehoming after a few years. It's not even about the fish "not being happy" in this tank size, but they will make the rest of their tankmates (including each other) miserable. All of the tangs that you listed aside from the kole get extremely aggressive in closed quarters, and I foresee a lot of fighting among the achilles, powders, and purple. Just my .02

+1 on A. pyroferus (maybe instead of powder brown?), adult colors are subtle but stunning. Mine had a lot of very nice blue on the fins.
 
Since the AT are the most ich prone fish in the saltwater trade and cost 200$ each for small ones it wouldn't make a bit of sense to get one to watch it develop ich and either be put into a QT far too small for it, with lack of flow or you could let it go and maybe the tang gets over it for now but it won't last long term. Point is if your not going to do everything the "correct" way with a AT then don't get one at all. There is a reason LA and all other places list them as a expert only fish. If the Kole was QTed or TT or something done to rid the fish of ich, it is in the DT. All fish that come from a supplier have ich or have been in contact with ich and just because you don't see outward signs of it doesn't mean it is there. Think what I'm saying is wrong, then get a AT put it in your DT and let me know how many hrs go by before you start seeing white spots

you are making many assumptions that lead to misunderstanting. first, ick is an equal opportunity parasite, the cost or whether LA lables it as "expert only fish" most likely makes very little difference to ick. i highly doubt ick knows either the cost or care level required to house an AT? secondly, not "all fish that come from a supplier have ich or have been in contact with ich." all fish do not have ick, it is a parasite, sometimes fish have it sometimes they don't. i'm not saying you are right or wrong, i was asking why you disqualified the AT because the Kole was not QTed and that the AT would "without a doubt" develop ich. which i believe is false on both accounts.
 
Thanks for the inputs guys.... I know I should qt all fish. I did qt my kole tang but when I transferred him into the 190 he had couple white spots on him. Now there gone and he is doing great.when it comes to ick there is no true answer on it.some beleive it's a always in your system and fish build a immune to it and some dont.I will def Qt fish that I plan to put in later. But If the fish are doing great right now I will not try to catch them out.
I think I narrowed my selection to just adding a PT and a PBT. My question is if I am not able to put them in the DT together at one time which one should I add first.
 
That's a tough one, pretty much a toss up. If the fish are small it likely wouldn't matter, but use an acclimation box for whichever goes in last.
 
you are making many assumptions that lead to misunderstanting. first, ick is an equal opportunity parasite, the cost or whether LA lables it as "expert only fish" most likely makes very little difference to ick. i highly doubt ick knows either the cost or care level required to house an AT? secondly, not "all fish that come from a supplier have ich or have been in contact with ich." all fish do not have ick, it is a parasite, sometimes fish have it sometimes they don't. i'm not saying you are right or wrong, i was asking why you disqualified the AT because the Kole was not QTed and that the AT would "without a doubt" develop ich. which i believe is false on both accounts.

yes i have not had ick or seen ick in almost 7 yrs across 3 different tanks and over 10 tangs. if ick is in the system, the achilles will get it.
 
You shouldn't add fish of the same genus (Achilles + the powders = same genus) this will only lead to fighting and 1 of them surviving.
 
if your kole had ich in your other tank then I'm going to guess that it still has it in the 190... and now so doesn't your tank
 
you are making many assumptions that lead to misunderstanting. first, ick is an equal opportunity parasite, the cost or whether LA lables it as "expert only fish" most likely makes very little difference to ick. i highly doubt ick knows either the cost or care level required to house an AT? secondly, not "all fish that come from a supplier have ich or have been in contact with ich." all fish do not have ick, it is a parasite, sometimes fish have it sometimes they don't. i'm not saying you are right or wrong, i was asking why you disqualified the AT because the Kole was not QTed and that the AT would "without a doubt" develop ich. which i believe is false on both accounts.

We will agree to disagree, have you ever owned a AT? If yes is it still living or did it die? Obviously ich doesn't know what fish it is attacking the point is if there is any chance of a fish getting ich it will be the AT, and yes fish are exposed to ich at the wholesaler. The last AT I got from LA had ich on it I the bag so yes it is present in the water at the supplier. No where did I say all fish have ich and yes it is a parasite. I guess I just should of said don't get a AT all ich things aside, the fish would be poorly housed in a 190g and I'm sure the tank is lacking in "strong water movement". Moreover did you add any input to the OP original question? Seems like you are just trying to argue a point with me that all fish don't have ich which is right
 
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