BennyFrank
New member
So 160W would be the total for both the bulbs and the ballast while running?
Yep, the ballast doesn't have any additional power consumption. It's strictly designed to drive the lamps.So 160W would be the total for both the bulbs and the ballast while running?
Yep, the ballast doesn't have any additional power consumption. It's strictly designed to drive the lamps.
160W for 12 hrs per day would run about $3.63/month
The HKs have a "cone-shaped" flow pattern that will help keep it from blasting a single spot (they also have a directional attachment if you want that). Jon had a mixed 65g that is similar to the dimensions of that 56g. IIRC he had a HK3 and HK4, so maybe a pair of HK3s? With LPS, especially corals like the Euphyllia species, you just have to adjust them so those corals don't get blasted. The HK1 seems too small and I think any more than a pair will start crowding the display aesthetically.What would you guys suggest for flow. I think I'm gonna go with the 56 gal column (30Lx18Wx24H) mixed reef (primarily LPS & Soft w/ a few SPS near the top). I only really have experience with old school maxijets but it seems like the koralias are pretty popular and fairly priced. Just not sure which (koralia 1, 2, etc.) and how many I would need.
First off, tank dimensions...
The space where I want the tank I initially framed for a in-wall wet bar. The opening is ~35"L x 24"D x 7'H (sketchup attached for reference). This means the maximum length of the tank would need to be 30" to allow room to clean side panels with a magfloat. Here's what I've found so far that might work;
50 gal Oceanic 30.5"L x 18.5"W x 21"H
56 gal Marineland 30.25"L x 18.25"W x 24"H
45 gal Acrylic cube 24"L x 24"W x 18"H
Hey jd (If you're out there),
I saw the pic of your nano(awesome BTW) that you posted on linoma . It looks like you had two drains that were just inverted elbows and a single return. How did you like that setup? I've heard they can be louder than having an overflow box. I'm debating right now between a single drain w/ overflow box (glass_holes) or something similar to your 26 gal w/ 2 drains. The pros I see with the 2 inverted elbows is that one can function as an emergency if the other clogs and they take up less real estate. Also, it will increase flow slightly (similar to jumping from a 3/4" drain to a 1" from what I've read) Cons could be noise? any others? Any more info you could give me on that tank would be helpful and if anyone else has an opinion, please chime in.
FWIW I can hear my lifereef through the fishroom, I cant hear my megaflows and thats with the "aqua silencer".
How much head height do you have, Ben?
I'm also envious of all these fancy renderings. Seems everybody is using them these days.
This is similar to the way my 54g corner was setup. Just a simple elbow and short PVC to set the water level. I took a bit of tuning to get the noise down, but wasn't very loud once set. I think you'll be able to adjust it pretty well with the external durso. The dual bulkheads are nice in case one gets plugged (gutter guard should pretty much eliminate that though)(2) 1" drains connected to external durso standpipes through the bulkheads (bulkheads will be ~2" below top rim of tank). Inside the tank would be inverted elbows to set the water level. So no overflow boxes, just the elbows. Both would drain into the skimmer section of the sump.
Other option would be to split off the drain if you're looking for a little more flow from your return pump. Not sure it's going to matter much though.(1) .75" return T'd off to the fuge and DT. Ball valve on the return to the fuge and ball valve on the return to the DT.
Yeah, looks great and so do your sketchesI will try to do a sketchup later to give you a better idea. Does this even sound feasible? This is my first time plumbing a tank so please let me know if I'm completely missing something here.
Have you had issues with T-ing off the drain side vs the return? Just curiouslooks perfect. i also used the elbow drain with durso's on my 40br, but just 1. 2 drains would've been better but i haven't had any problems.. i really like it. one thing i didn't do was the t off the return, kinda wish i woulda. i just t'd off my drain and put a ball valve on the fuge side. i also used 3/4 return and 1" overflow, never had a problem.
+1 on the EheimsHow much head height do you have, Ben? I always liked Eheim's for smaller tanks, they are whisper silent, and very dependable (I still have one that works from before the Berlin Wall came down -- says "Made in WEST GERMANY").
I'm also envious of all these fancy renderings. Seems everybody is using them these days.
.75" = 330gphTotal height = 2.75'
Total pipe length = 3.75' @ 0.75"
Tried to make my way through this and use the linked spreadsheet; http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/jan2003/featurejp.htm :reading::reading::reading:.....:hmm4:
I think I'm more confused now. I can't really find a good source for what flow to expect through a 1.25" drain ((2)1" = 1.25"). I found that 1" = 330gph and 1.5" = 976gph. Do I just shoot somewhere in the middle?
I'd narrow down your return pumps. Maybe start with the Eheim 1250 and compare from there. You might be able to find some more accurate flow charts for a specific model. Probably around 250gph @ 3' of head loss before the split off with that one.Total height = 2.75'
I've used a couple of different calculators for head loss and come up with anything between 2' and 5' but I don't even know which pump (gph?) I should be using for the example. I generally consider myself a pretty smart dude, but this exercise has me second guessing. Any help/clarification would be much appreciated.