Tank Setup

[l0ngb0arder]

Hello,

Interested in setting up a seahorse. I was of thinking of getting a 37g cube with the dimenison of 20x18x23. Setup would be:

1. MCE600 hangon skimmer
2. 1 MP10 for flow.
3. No sump since no overflow.
4. 40lbs of sands to create about 3in DSB.
5. 20 to 30 lbs of live rock.
6. some macro algae
7. some nassarius and tubo snails for cleanup crew
8. 2 red firefish and 2 purple firefish
9. pair of redi and erectus
10. corals maybe dendors, sun coral, duncans, rics.
11. Light will be 5 LED bulbs for spot lighting.
12. No chill since the tank will be in sitting in cool spot.

Are your guys thoughts about this setup for experience seahorse keepers?

Thanks,

Kris

 

[rayjay]

Well my first comment will be that IMO, the tank will be severely overloaded.
Recommendation for a pair of seahorses is 29/30g with an extra 15g for each additional pair.
You are talking two pair which would be about 45g plus you want to add other fish as well.
Even one pair of seahorses plus the 4 firefish will be overloaded. Occasionally, some seahorses are stressed by the firefish movements.
Also, remember the firefish are jumpers.
For best chances of success it is not recommended to mix seahorse species.

 

[l0ngb0arder]

I will stick to 1 pair of seahorse and 1 of red and purple firefish. But everything else for the setup should be okay?

 

[rayjay]

I'll leave comment on the rest as I don't have any seahorse tanks with anything but rock, hitches and seahorses in them anymore. I went for simplicity and better chances of success after having problems for my first few years.
My tanks are bare bottom, my hitches are man made, my rock is boiled and cycled and is placed almost exclusively in the sumps because I was getting cheezed off at trying to find my seahorses that would be in the rocks.
I have them to see them so what's the point of letting them hide so well. It's still hard to find them in the artificial plants many times.
I have no snails or hermits or anything else.
Just a personal preference based on my previous experiences.
As for lighting I use indirect lighting, nothing directly over the tanks.

 

[namxas]

make sure the SH can get their tails caught in the MP10. you may need to DIY a guard for it.

 

[l0ngb0arder]

if I made some hitching post for them, would that be fine and the horses don't get close to the MP10?

 

[Burke]

In my SH tank, I made an overflow style box, I have a pump in there for flow, skimmer and heater. That way I'm not looking at equipment and don't have to worry about tails getting caught.

 

[rayjay]

The ONLY thing acceptable is to make sure the seahorse CANNOT get caught in the power head intake.
You can't control where the seahorse goes in the tank at all times unless you put a barrier between them and the intake.

 

[Allmost]

U need a sponge around the MP10, that will solve it (NOTE: when you turn it off to feed, remember to check noone is close by before turning it back on ! I almost lost a blenny to this lol )
same needs to be done with the PH of the skimmer.

also, the sponges need to be cleaned daily or so to prevent build up of organics and ... .

 

[l0ngb0arder]

I will put off the MP10 off for now and just let the hangon MCE600 skimmer run. I want to see how the flow goes for a few months before decide in adding a MP10.

Planning on adding the horses after the tank is setup for 3 months. Is good enough time or should I wait longer?

 

[Allmost]

I will put off the MP10 off for now and just let the hangon MCE600 skimmer run. I want to see how the flow goes for a few months before decide in adding a MP10.

Planning on adding the horses after the tank is setup for 3 months. Is good enough time or should I wait longer?

you can add after your no3 has went down (after cycle) so test for no3

u should wait a bit more for the pods and ... to grow and populate the tank as well.



seahorses do better in more flow ... . as I find, and MP10 u can always turn it down all the way.

good luck