The Begining! 300DD build in-wall and basement fish room.

very nice tank i just ordered my 280 i'll tag along and start a thread soon

Congratulations, I hope your build goes much faster then mine has. It has taking much more time and money then expected, especially trying to get it so that it will make sense now and down the road for upgrades.
 
Great update and progress man. Congrats on completing the semester of school. What are you majoring in?

Thanks, Its nice to finally see actual progress. And today with this big snow fall we got up here over night I have the day off so I think I'm going to pull the tank away from the wall and paint the back.

Any tips on painting the back glass?


I'm pre-med and a biology major, School starts again monday so I'm in over drive trying to get things done. lol
 
So Since I found out that it may not be possible to drill my 55gall tank because its probably tempered I had to re configure the return pump for suction lift. I mounted a shelf above the tank and used some scrap pieces of composite decking for a base then bolted it down. I installed the check valve according to the installation instructions and hopefully this will solve that issue.
I'm also going to use the 29gall refugium I have on my 125 now and tie it into the system using one of the valve on the manifold and the Rio pump I have now to run the return into the sump and back to the display.

Here are a few pictures from yesterdays snow day finishing up the top of the stand and getting the pump mocked up then mounted.

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Thanks, Its nice to finally see actual progress. And today with this big snow fall we got up here over night I have the day off so I think I'm going to pull the tank away from the wall and paint the back.

Any tips on painting the back glass?


I'm pre-med and a biology major, School starts again monday so I'm in over drive trying to get things done. lol

Tape it off and use Rustoleum. That's what i used on the back of my tanks. Or get a paint that's good on glass.
 
Tape it off and use Rustoleum. That's what i used on the back of my tanks. Or get a paint that's good on glass.

Ok cool. Figured it was not all that hard. You recommend spray or roller?

I guess the next thing to figure out is what color. I know I don't want black so I was thinking of a shade of blue. I'm going to have to check out the options at the store.
 
Don't know if I would be comfortable with that pump so close to the electric panel.
Never used that model but they will eventually need a seal right?
If it "sprays" there could be trouble in River City.
I think I would also have a baffle by the return line in case of bubbles.
 
Don't know if I would be comfortable with that pump so close to the electric panel.
Never used that model but they will eventually need a seal right?
If it "sprays" there could be trouble in River City.
I think I would also have a baffle by the return line in case of bubbles.

Yeah, I was not so thrilled about it either but my plan is to build both a bottom to stop or at least prevent and splash from under the pump coming up and a front shield around the side of the tank close to the panel, I was also looking into building an enclosure around the panel to try and keep as much splash off as possible
 
I agree with boxing the panel, but I would also move that tank to the table on the left (in the photo). You are desperately wanting to keep the humidity in that room as low as possible with the electrical panel enclosed in such a small room with so much water, so plan on a fan driven by a humidistat.

Dave.M
 
I agree with boxing the panel, but I would also move that tank to the table on the left (in the photo). You are desperately wanting to keep the humidity in that room as low as possible with the electrical panel enclosed in such a small room with so much water, so plan on a fan driven by a humidistat.

Dave.M

That's a great idea, Is there a particular model or type of fan you would recommend?

On the left side I plan to put the refugium that is currently under my 125set up upstairs. Eventually the panel is going to be moved out of the room entirely but Id figure that wont happen for at least another year.
 
Any bathroom fan run by humidistat will do since you have no appreciable distance to run it. Check some of the other threads near this one as others are already doing the same thing.

Dave.M
 
Any bathroom fan run by humidistat will do since you have no appreciable distance to run it. Check some of the other threads near this one as others are already doing the same thing.

Dave.M

Great, Thanks Dave. Im gonna check them out. I have a window right above it so it should be easy enough to mount and run it.

So Ive been working on my Labview program to monitor and control parts of the tank. Hes a picture of the front panel so far. Really just trying to get things to work at the moment and will clean up and refine the look later. Still lots to add.

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So yesterday I was finishing up some of the return plumbing to the tank. Looking for some input on the placement of the returns. Is there anything you would change? A better method to return the water. I have 3 mp40s to get flow around the tank, Not sure if I'm going to use the mp10s I have as well. So let me know what you guys think.

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Also I was thinking about the return pump, It said something in the instructions to use a valve to restrict flow. It then says that It should just be closed and not bypassed to reduce the flow and this can make it more efficient. I always thought that it was best to t off the return and bypass it back to the sump. Can someone clarifies this for me please.
 
Restricting the return has been shown to reduce the electricity used.
Not an electrician so I don't know the reasoning for this.
Can't tell the size of the return nozzles but I would think with a Hammerhead pump they are going to "spray like crazy".
I like Sea Swirls personally.
They come in 3 sizes -1/2" 3/4" & 1". The new model does all 3 with the same unit.
 
Restricting the return has been shown to reduce the electricity used.

I had always heard the opposite, that restricting the flow increases head pressure and the pump 'thinks' it has to work harder. I am not an electrical engineer either, so who really knows.

To the OP .... I would be reluctant to mount a pump above the water level in my sump. Check valves generally don't work all that well, invariably fail to do what it is you need them to do, and you may find your pump will be unprimed in event of a power failure/resumption. I had an undrilled sump a few years ago, and ended up plumbing my pump with a U shaped PVC pipe over the side of the tank. That way the pump always stays primed.
 
I had always heard the opposite, that restricting the flow increases head pressure and the pump 'thinks' it has to work harder. I am not an electrical engineer either, so who really knows.

To the OP .... I would be reluctant to mount a pump above the water level in my sump. Check valves generally don't work all that well, invariably fail to do what it is you need them to do, and you may find your pump will be unprimed in event of a power failure/resumption. I had an undrilled sump a few years ago, and ended up plumbing my pump with a U shaped PVC pipe over the side of the tank. That way the pump always stays primed.

I was thinking that a u-pipe but not sure how to get it down to it. Do you still need a check valve? Do you prime it the same way as a suction lift?

I know I'm going to be very annoyed at it not being drilled though the side and plumbed out for now, but I've been working up plans for a DIY acrylic sump. But that's all going to be dependent on time and money. And with school starting Monday I don't have either of those. lol
 
I was thinking that a u-pipe but not sure how to get it down to it. Do you still need a check valve? Do you prime it the same way as a suction lift?

It's really just a run of PVC with two elbows to get you over the rim of the tank, with one end near the bottom of the sump and the other with a third elbow into the suction side of the pump. Looks like you'd have enough room next to your sump to do this. Personally I never sue check valves as I am not diligent enough abut keeping them clean, so they clog up. Your return nozzles are close enough to the surface of the tank that I'd think back siphon would be minimal. Priming the U tube is a pain, no question. I used to thread an air hose up into the U and just suck out the air.
 
Where is the siphon break on the return plumbing?

Like ca1ore said the returns are high enough that I wont have much issue, the other thing is there is a check valve down by the pump so that if it stops so does the back flow of water ( at least slow down the back flow)

It's really just a run of PVC with two elbows to get you over the rim of the tank, with one end near the bottom of the sump and the other with a third elbow into the suction side of the pump. Looks like you'd have enough room next to your sump to do this. Personally I never sue check valves as I am not diligent enough abut keeping them clean, so they clog up. Your return nozzles are close enough to the surface of the tank that I'd think back siphon would be minimal. Priming the U tube is a pain, no question. I used to thread an air hose up into the U and just suck out the air.

Yeah that seams like a pain. I currently have a CPR over-flow on my 125 and its a pain when the lifter pump fails to pull out the air, but for the most part works well and might work in this instance as well. I may do that, cause honestly the more I look at it the less I like the idea of having the pump above the sump. The whole idea of having it in the basement in its own room was to be able to access stuff easier.
 
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