GrouperGenius
Liscensed Unit
Left end of the sump, it looks like the partition goes all the way from the bottom to about 1" from the top.
Is that section for top off water?
Is that section for top off water?
The BobbyV Build - 150 Rimless Starphire with Shadow Overflow 60x24x24
- Thread starter BobbyV
- Start date
BobbyV
Established since 2008
It would be as standard. However I am going to mod the sump for a large refugium. 20% Display Tank Volume.
RO Top Off will be a remote reservoir.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Thank you
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Well slowly . . . slowly the build continues.
Modded the sump the way I wanted.
Took a razor blade and removed all the glass dividers.
To my surprise SCA polished the glass insert edges round so that you would not scrap or cut your arms reaching in. Just a nice touch I noticed. These SCA Starphire sumps are a really nice value.
Made a SUPER large refugium area and gave myself 16 x 16 inches in the skimmer area chamber. So the skimmer has plenty of "exhaust" area.
I intend to have the main tank drains exit into here.
I am going to have the frag tank drain into the refugium area so it is a nice slow overflow. I bought a overflow screener as you can see.
Going to buy some really thin black Acrylic to add to the refugium divider to prevent the refugium light to bleed over into the skimmer area.
Happy with the way it is turning out. Taking my sweet time.
Modded the sump the way I wanted.
Took a razor blade and removed all the glass dividers.
To my surprise SCA polished the glass insert edges round so that you would not scrap or cut your arms reaching in. Just a nice touch I noticed. These SCA Starphire sumps are a really nice value.
Made a SUPER large refugium area and gave myself 16 x 16 inches in the skimmer area chamber. So the skimmer has plenty of "exhaust" area.
I intend to have the main tank drains exit into here.
I am going to have the frag tank drain into the refugium area so it is a nice slow overflow. I bought a overflow screener as you can see.
Going to buy some really thin black Acrylic to add to the refugium divider to prevent the refugium light to bleed over into the skimmer area.
Happy with the way it is turning out. Taking my sweet time.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Thank you . . . I agree. Large refugiums growing large about of Chaeto will make this hobby so much easier.
Proven by many. Sometimes old school science just works. Wish I new this before I spent tons of money on GFO over the years.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
There are many skimmers on the market. My favorite feature to a well built quality skimmer is the fact that the bottom base plate can be removed.
There are a number of skimmer manufactures that have this feature. To list a few off the top of my head would be:
I came across a killer deal on an ATB 1050A version 2.
These skimmers when new went for $1,000 plus! 10 years ago!
The skimmer was in perfect shape paired with an upgraded replacement Syncra Sicce PSK1000 Skimmer Pump. (Which I can still buy on Amazon for $100 or so.)
Plus it had the upgraded separately purchased Sicce USA psk1000 Replacement Needle Wheel Impeller. ($55 value)
Bit of an over kill skimmer for this build, but for the deal I got it for. I feel fortunate.
I just like ATB - they are very well made. Easy to clean and I can just buy another skimmer pump every 4 years or so. I can upgrade to their DC pumps. Or I can install a Tunze Hydrofoamer if I want to.
I also have the option to resell the skimmer 10 years from now and someone will know what it is and can appreciate the simplicity of it.
The titanium screws on the removable base plate to me determine a good skimmer to a great skimmer in regards to craftsmanship.
I-TECH has this as well. So if you ever come across these type of skimmers at a good price. Buy it - you can always resell it.
Best part is - it was WHITE! :dance:
There are a number of skimmer manufactures that have this feature. To list a few off the top of my head would be:
- ATB
- I-TECH
- Vertex
- Bubble King
I came across a killer deal on an ATB 1050A version 2.
These skimmers when new went for $1,000 plus! 10 years ago!
The skimmer was in perfect shape paired with an upgraded replacement Syncra Sicce PSK1000 Skimmer Pump. (Which I can still buy on Amazon for $100 or so.)
Plus it had the upgraded separately purchased Sicce USA psk1000 Replacement Needle Wheel Impeller. ($55 value)
Bit of an over kill skimmer for this build, but for the deal I got it for. I feel fortunate.
I just like ATB - they are very well made. Easy to clean and I can just buy another skimmer pump every 4 years or so. I can upgrade to their DC pumps. Or I can install a Tunze Hydrofoamer if I want to.
I also have the option to resell the skimmer 10 years from now and someone will know what it is and can appreciate the simplicity of it.
The titanium screws on the removable base plate to me determine a good skimmer to a great skimmer in regards to craftsmanship.
I-TECH has this as well. So if you ever come across these type of skimmers at a good price. Buy it - you can always resell it.
Best part is - it was WHITE! :dance:
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BobbyV
Established since 2008
I heard some not good things about the Synergy branded Shadow overflows. Read a bunch on reviews about how people where unhappy.
So I contacted Exotic Marine System.
Had them make me a custom build.
32 inches long to have more efficient surface skimming.
Large Bean Animal drains.
Built like a tank. Very solid thick materials used.
Buy it once and be happy.
Little stuff like this matters to me in the long term.
My goal is to have a living reef of 10 years or more.
I do not want to cut corners on the plumbing aspect. Once this tank and filled it isn't moving.
EMS gave me the confidence I needed that I can rely on this overflow box 10 years from now.
So I contacted Exotic Marine System.
Had them make me a custom build.
32 inches long to have more efficient surface skimming.
Large Bean Animal drains.
Built like a tank. Very solid thick materials used.
Buy it once and be happy.
Little stuff like this matters to me in the long term.
My goal is to have a living reef of 10 years or more.
I do not want to cut corners on the plumbing aspect. Once this tank and filled it isn't moving.
EMS gave me the confidence I needed that I can rely on this overflow box 10 years from now.
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BobbyV
Established since 2008
Tank glass is 15mm thick. Custom SCA. Had them drill it prior to shipping.
Love the low profile look.
Thank you for following along.
Next plans when I have time is to plumb with all SCH80.
Also incorporate SCH80 gate valves and unions.
Probably going to wait for the huge black Friday BRS sale to get a deal. Plumbing will not be cheap.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
You need to start a build thread . . . .
BobbyV
Established since 2008
I was going to go all SCH80 but knowing that SCH80 technically has more restrictive flow than SCH40 I chose to go with functionality than overkill appearance. So SCH40 it is.
However the SCH40 all white look is appealing and I am being mindful to turn the red writing away as I glue.
However the SCH40 all white look is appealing and I am being mindful to turn the red writing away as I glue.
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BobbyV
Established since 2008
Picked up a 200GPD RO System with booster pump.
The Flow Counter Filter Monitor saves money in the long run.
It counts how much total water enters your system and helps you know exactly when you should replace your Sediment and Carbon Blocks.
1,500 gallons for my Sediment Filter
3,000 gallons for my BRS Universal Carbon Blocks
Then I have a TDS in and out for my DI so I know when to change.
Not the prettiest install, but fits perfect and out of the way for me in the garage. Makes great use of the negative space.
Plumbed it right off of my line going into my whole house filter system.
The Flow Counter Filter Monitor saves money in the long run.
It counts how much total water enters your system and helps you know exactly when you should replace your Sediment and Carbon Blocks.
1,500 gallons for my Sediment Filter
3,000 gallons for my BRS Universal Carbon Blocks
Then I have a TDS in and out for my DI so I know when to change.
Not the prettiest install, but fits perfect and out of the way for me in the garage. Makes great use of the negative space.
Plumbed it right off of my line going into my whole house filter system.
BobbyV
Established since 2008
It is well built. Made out of stiff PVC. No regrets buying it.
I bought it from a "œbloke" across the pond on EBay.
Only paid $16 for it which included shipping. Three weeks later it showed up British Post.
They have multiple widths and types. I went with the additional edge on top.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/400mm-Leng...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
BobbyV
Established since 2008
Doing a lot of reading and research on which return pump to go with.
I am going to make the connection incredibly simple with SCH80 Union Valves so in an emergency I can have someone replace a back up return pump for me. (I will just buy a cheap Jabeo with the same return outlet as my main return pump.)
Yes, I know some people run two return pumps. But for me and my set up, I just would rather just run one.
With that said whatever I choose, I would like to make it "easy" for the pump to work and have it under loaded. I would rather buy an over sized pump and turn it down to 50% or less to increase it's longevity.
Which leads me to two points.
I think the largest issue to make pumps die prematurely or people complain that they are not powerful enough all comes back to their efforts of plumbing done right.
They buy these huge expensive pumps that are native to larger plumbing and they reduce them down to smaller thinner plumbing schemes because that is how they set it up for their last pump.
If you run a pump under load it will not create as much heat and in return will not develop as much calcification on the impeller which causes friction which then cause more stress and heat on the pump.
My plan is to plumb my system with as less restrictive plumbing as possible.
Look at the difference of 3/4 vs 1 1/4 makes.
I have not decided if I am going the route of the Neptune COR20 or the Ecotech Vectra L2 next gen. But it will be one of them.
Same principle goes for my inside the tank power heads. Buy larger and run them cooler at less power.
Also see the transition to my actual return. I transition to 3/4 right before the turn into the tank so that the larger plumbing is dominant in the build.
I am going to make the connection incredibly simple with SCH80 Union Valves so in an emergency I can have someone replace a back up return pump for me. (I will just buy a cheap Jabeo with the same return outlet as my main return pump.)
Yes, I know some people run two return pumps. But for me and my set up, I just would rather just run one.
With that said whatever I choose, I would like to make it "easy" for the pump to work and have it under loaded. I would rather buy an over sized pump and turn it down to 50% or less to increase it's longevity.
Which leads me to two points.
I think the largest issue to make pumps die prematurely or people complain that they are not powerful enough all comes back to their efforts of plumbing done right.
They buy these huge expensive pumps that are native to larger plumbing and they reduce them down to smaller thinner plumbing schemes because that is how they set it up for their last pump.
If you run a pump under load it will not create as much heat and in return will not develop as much calcification on the impeller which causes friction which then cause more stress and heat on the pump.
My plan is to plumb my system with as less restrictive plumbing as possible.
Look at the difference of 3/4 vs 1 1/4 makes.
I have not decided if I am going the route of the Neptune COR20 or the Ecotech Vectra L2 next gen. But it will be one of them.
Same principle goes for my inside the tank power heads. Buy larger and run them cooler at less power.
Also see the transition to my actual return. I transition to 3/4 right before the turn into the tank so that the larger plumbing is dominant in the build.
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