The Dirty SPS Tank Club

Alex T.

Active member
I've been debating as to whether starting a thread regarding high nutrient SPS tanks was viable, however a lot has changed in the first year of my current system that I wanted to make note of and see if anyone else was (a) interested, or (b) experiencing the same thing. I've discussed this at length with a couple members here on RC, and have heard similar findings in their tanks as well.

In May of 2012 I started my current 195 gallon SPS system. My first SPS were ok for a couple of months and then just slowly faded and polyp extension was less evident. I was running 2 400 Watt Radiums in Lumenmax Elite reflectors, keeping alkalinity stable from 8.3 to 8.6, calcium from 410 - 430 and magnesium from 1200 to 1350. In the beginning, I was barely registering any PO4, some measurable nitrate but just couldn't figure out what was causing my sticks to stagnate over time. Flow was plentiful, with 4 Vortech MP40's and a Tunze 6105, and the tank never got above 80.5 degrees. After a break from the tank in June and July this year, I started rebooting things a little bit because of the hair algae starting to grow. It's slowly receding and I've beefed up the cleanup crew. I've since replaced the 2 400 watt Radiums with 3 250 watt bulbs with a longer run time and started feeding even more...not less as most would assume.

With the recent purchase of many new SPS corals, I'm noticing better color, polyp extension and overall health. At one point in September, my PO4 spiked at .08 with nitrates between 5 and 10. Everything looked great with dark pigmentation and the best polyp extension I've ever seen in any of my tanks. Now, I'm keeping the color and polyp extension, have raised the halide photoperiod to 7 hours, actinic VHO's for 12 hours and 2 Kessil a150's for 9 hours. My calcium and alkalinity demands have increased more than ever with these higher nutrient levels.

I'm observing a few things. First, increasing the lighting duration has allowed me to feed the fish more, even though nuisance algae grows at a steady, manageable pace. My PO4 stays around .05, and nitrates are around 5 ppm at the moment. If I leave for work a few days earlier than when the lights come on, I don't get to feed the fish until I get home, and sometimes don't feed them the 3 times per day I normally do. If this happens for a few days in succession, my colors begin to fade. I'm starting to believe that if nutrients are not available with intense lighting and elevated alkalinity, your corals will fade significantly and may not extend polyps as much as they could. Conversely, there is the modern trend of those that keep nsw alkalinity, have a shorter and less intense photoperiod, and measure 0 on all available nitrate and phosphate test kits. These systems seem to be tweaked with additive dosages to achieve the same results, but still closer to the pastel look.

While nobody enjoys nuisance algae, I'm just adding more cleanup crew members and letting them keep it in check with higher than recommended nutrient levels, alkalinity (almost 9.5 right now) and blasting my SPS with a lot of light. I realize there are those that will chime in that every tank is different, but science doesn't view things like that or it would be virtually impossible to diagnose different people. I believe that higher nutrient levels and alkalinity, accompanied with high intensity lighting can produce some of the best, non-pastel SPS. If I begin to see more algae than my cleanup crew can handle, I'll simply add more crew without ramping up GFO change outs, water change schedules or other things I can't quantify.

I think in the wake of the low nutrient craze, some terminology got mixed up, and because it may have been poorly defined, many people are left wondering why their SPS go pale and slowly whither away. Like I've written in other threads, natural reefs are nutrient rich and dissolved organic poor. We can't possibly simulate the abundant planktonic life available to corals in the wild in our aquariums. However, keeping some dirt in the water appears to reap the same benefits. If the corals go pale, everyone says to lower your photoperiod or ramp up feedings. Simply ramping up feedings has always given me more nuisance algae and brown SPS. Raising the photoperiod and the feedings seem to work synergistically by providing the energy for the corals to feed, color up and extend their polyps.

I understand that this must be done within reason, but I'm wondering if others could share their experiences of when they stopped listening to the masses that told them to do more water changes, get their nitrate and phosphate to undetectable levels and feed the fish only what they can eat in a couple minutes. Did you see better results? Are you secretly part of the Dirty SPS Tank Club?

I'd love to hear your thoughts and possibly discuss your own experiences. All zeo users are welcome as well...especially those that have come off zeovit and gone 100% in the opposite direction. What were your findings? Have you gone back to Zeovit?

Thanks in advance everybody.
 
I've been debating as to whether starting a thread regarding high nutrient SPS tanks was viable, however a lot has changed in the first year of my current system that I wanted to make note of and see if anyone else was (a) interested, or (b) experiencing the same thing. I've discussed this at length with a couple members here on RC, and have heard similar findings in their tanks as well.

In May of 2012 I started my current 195 gallon SPS system. My first SPS were ok for a couple of months and then just slowly faded and polyp extension was less evident. I was running 2 400 Watt Radiums in Lumenmax Elite reflectors, keeping alkalinity stable from 8.3 to 8.6, calcium from 410 - 430 and magnesium from 1200 to 1350. In the beginning, I was barely registering any PO4, some measurable nitrate but just couldn't figure out what was causing my sticks to stagnate over time. Flow was plentiful, with 4 Vortech MP40's and a Tunze 6105, and the tank never got above 80.5 degrees. After a break from the tank in June and July this year, I started rebooting things a little bit because of the hair algae starting to grow. It's slowly receding and I've beefed up the cleanup crew. I've since replaced the 2 400 watt Radiums with 3 250 watt bulbs with a longer run time and started feeding even more...not less as most would assume.

With the recent purchase of many new SPS corals, I'm noticing better color, polyp extension and overall health. At one point in September, my PO4 spiked at .08 with nitrates between 5 and 10. Everything looked great with dark pigmentation and the best polyp extension I've ever seen in any of my tanks. Now, I'm keeping the color and polyp extension, have raised the halide photoperiod to 7 hours, actinic VHO's for 12 hours and 2 Kessil a150's for 9 hours. My calcium and alkalinity demands have increased more than ever with these higher nutrient levels.

I'm observing a few things. First, increasing the lighting duration has allowed me to feed the fish more, even though nuisance algae grows at a steady, manageable pace. My PO4 stays around .05, and nitrates are around 5 ppm at the moment. If I leave for work a few days earlier than when the lights come on, I don't get to feed the fish until I get home, and sometimes don't feed them the 3 times per day I normally do. If this happens for a few days in succession, my colors begin to fade. I'm starting to believe that if nutrients are not available with intense lighting and elevated alkalinity, your corals will fade significantly and may not extend polyps as much as they could. Conversely, there is the modern trend of those that keep nsw alkalinity, have a shorter and less intense photoperiod, and measure 0 on all available nitrate and phosphate test kits. These systems seem to be tweaked with additive dosages to achieve the same results, but still closer to the pastel look.

While nobody enjoys nuisance algae, I'm just adding more cleanup crew members and letting them keep it in check with higher than recommended nutrient levels, alkalinity (almost 9.5 right now) and blasting my SPS with a lot of light. I realize there are those that will chime in that every tank is different, but science doesn't view things like that or it would be virtually impossible to diagnose different people. I believe that higher nutrient levels and alkalinity, accompanied with high intensity lighting can produce some of the best, non-pastel SPS. If I begin to see more algae than my cleanup crew can handle, I'll simply add more crew without ramping up GFO change outs, water change schedules or other things I can't quantify.

I think in the wake of the low nutrient craze, some terminology got mixed up, and because it may have been poorly defined, many people are left wondering why their SPS go pale and slowly whither away. Like I've written in other threads, natural reefs are nutrient rich and dissolved organic poor. We can't possibly simulate the abundant planktonic life available to corals in the wild in our aquariums. However, keeping some dirt in the water appears to reap the same benefits. If the corals go pale, everyone says to lower your photoperiod or ramp up feedings. Simply ramping up feedings has always given me more nuisance algae and brown SPS. Raising the photoperiod and the feedings seem to work synergistically by providing the energy for the corals to feed, color up and extend their polyps.

I understand that this must be done within reason, but I'm wondering if others could share their experiences of when they stopped listening to the masses that told them to do more water changes, get their nitrate and phosphate to undetectable levels and feed the fish only what they can eat in a couple minutes. Did you see better results? Are you secretly part of the Dirty SPS Tank Club?

I'd love to hear your thoughts and possibly discuss your own experiences. All zeo users are welcome as well...especially those that have come off zeovit and gone 100% in the opposite direction. What were your findings? Have you gone back to Zeovit?

Thanks in advance everybody.

Wow, great experiment. I'd love to see pictures of your tank. Subscribed.
 
Ived done different systems ..refugium , biopellets, and other ways I find that keeping stable parameters and tank maturity really contribute to a better health of the livestock. .I am running full zeovit and ive been able to keep sps that I havent been able to keep previously and I feed heavily now its working really well..and I can also keep goniporas and nps without a problem..
 
OK, in order to better document the progression, here are my current parameters:

NO3: 5 ppm
PO4: .09 Hannah Checker
Ca: 410
dKH: 9.6
Mg: 1340
Temp: 76.5 - 80.3

Being that most of my SPS corals are new, I'll post my oldest one first (Green Highlighter Acro). This coral has bounced back nicely, and really started to take off as of late. I apologize for the picture quality. I'm only using an iPhone, and do not have photoshop or any other means of editing photographs until I get a nice camera:

 
Then there are those that I'm currently beginning to see some good progress with. Some have been in my tank over a year, but most have been acquired over the last month:

ORA Tri-Color Valida


ORA Blue Digitata


Acropora Pulchra


Blue Tort
 
...and

Unknown Teal acro with reddish purple polyps


ORA Blue Bottlebrush


ORA Plum Crazy


Bob Moore Blue Stag (3 weeks and starting to encrust)


ORA Blue Millepora


Australian Pink Lemonade


ORA Hawkins Blue Echinata
 
...and I had to throw in my 5 year old Derasa clam


Full Tank shot unfocused on iPhone with all lights on:


Full Tank Shot with all lights on and Focus zoomed in to balance out the brightness of the halides:
 
Nice derasa! Imo only your phosphate is slightly high. Doesn't really seem like nutrient rich parameters to me. Do you have more live rock in your sump? Just asking.
 
Nice derasa! Imo only your phosphate is slightly high. Doesn't really seem like nutrient rich parameters to me. Do you have more live rock in your sump? Just asking.

No live rock in the sump. Only what you see in the tank. I'm not trying to make the argument that polluting the tank as much as possible is a good idea...only trying to see and hear from those that have yet to get the colors, growth and polyp extension they're striving for by shooting for 0 nitrates and undetectable phosphates.

Thanks for the compliment on the Derasa. He's really grown from the little 2 inch "shell of a guy" he was 5 years ago.
 
IMOP the improvement you are seeing is a result of the feeding not the nutrients/waste in the water. Feed the same and get the nutrients down as low as you can and you'll be golden. If you were to say just toss a dead fish in your sump now and then and let it rot you wouldn't have the same effect even if your n&p were at the same level.
 
Nice derasa! Imo only your phosphate is slightly high. Doesn't really seem like nutrient rich parameters to me.

+1 just because you have detectable levels of N and P doesn't mean it's nutrient rich. What you posted seems nutrient poor IMO.
 
If I had your "nuisance algae" I'd be thrilled. Lol

I'm a very heavy feeder, more like 5-6 times a day. I generally keep nitrates at about 2 to 4. PO4 I battle and can usually keep down to .02 to .04 but I have had it as high as .6 (yes .6, not .06) which caused some acros to fade. At least thats what I attributed it to. No issues with many other acros but just blue ones faded when my po4 spiked. Normally I keep about the same parameters you listed for Alk, Ca, and Mg. I don't change water and rely on C-balance two part for replenishment of trace elements. I dose (recently adjusted to this) alk and Ca every other hour (alternating each hour) all day long and that seems so far to be doing pretty good.

I also do not run a skimmer. Aquaripure denitrator is what I use. With a large algae scrubber in the near future.

I know probably a lot of people won't like my routine here, but I've lost very few pieces and even with a good amount of hair algae my sps grows and looks good minus the po4 spike which was from a lack of maintaining my GFO. I'm confident the scrubber will be my answer to nuisance algae and allow me to keep the same minimal maintenance game plan going.

I'm only posting this because I like your idea about heavier feeding being beneficial. But I think heavier feeding and still keeping the po4 down is where its really at. That's my goal, but without a skimmer.
 
Very interesting and thanks for sharing. When I started reef keeping about 13 years ago I fed like mad, never thought of testing phosphate.nitrates, just kept the system 'looking good'
i chucked in natural unheated saltwater for a water change and fed my fast growing amount of news up to 8 times a weekend day and twice in the week. could grow broomstick in there.
went all 'modern and ulna', it sucked and broke down my tank recently due to lack of results and I'm starting Uni part time while working full time.
Can we live without a reef.. obviously not.
so, a 2 foot cube sprang to life and already I run it much more 'lets see what happens' than getting hung up on parameters.. results.. i have better growth in 4 week than I had in the last 18 months..
just my few thoughts
 
IMOP the improvement you are seeing is a result of the feeding not the nutrients/waste in the water. Feed the same and get the nutrients down as low as you can and you'll be golden. If you were to say just toss a dead fish in your sump now and then and let it rot you wouldn't have the same effect even if your n&p were at the same level.

That's very interesting. I never looked at it that way. I just think it would be so much more work to feed this much and still keep nutrients that low. I do believe in water changes, but I'm not a big believer in doing large enough ones to pull nutrients down that quickly. My nitrates have been almost 10 ppm on Salifert, but right now seem to have stabilized at 5 and the colors are really looking good to me. I know that with an iPhone everything's coming through as blue, but it's much brighter in person. Congratulations on TOTM by the way. I love your setup and applaud you for what you've done in such a relativelg small body of water.

+1 just because you have detectable levels of N and P doesn't mean it's nutrient rich. What you posted seems nutrient poor IMO.

Wow. That's the first time I ever heard anyone say that 5 ppm nitrate and .09 phosphate was nutrient poor in an SPS dominant tank. Maybe we should define what would create a nutrient rich environment. The reason I started the thread is because so many people are told to pull their nutrients down to undetectable levels to bring out the best colors...while I'm seeing the exact opposite. Also, Randy wrote an article a while back that stated frag farmers probably have the most to gain by raising alkalinity for purposes of increased growth. A lot of us have learned to keep alkalinity at lower levels close to natural sea water, but it seems I'm getting better results with a slightly elevated alkalinity while nutrients are available in the water column. I know that high alkalinity in a ULNS system is a no-no, and wondering if it's because there's just not enough energy in the way of food for the corals to utilize as they grow. Thanks for input!

If I had your "nuisance algae" I'd be thrilled. Lol

I'm a very heavy feeder, more like 5-6 times a day. I generally keep nitrates at about 2 to 4. PO4 I battle and can usually keep down to .02 to .04 but I have had it as high as .6 (yes .6, not .06) which caused some acros to fade. At least thats what I attributed it to. No issues with many other acros but just blue ones faded when my po4 spiked. Normally I keep about the same parameters you listed for Alk, Ca, and Mg. I don't change water and rely on C-balance two part for replenishment of trace elements. I dose (recently adjusted to this) alk and Ca every other hour (alternating each hour) all day long and that seems so far to be doing pretty good.

I also do not run a skimmer. Aquaripure denitrator is what I use. With a large algae scrubber in the near future.

I know probably a lot of people won't like my routine here, but I've lost very few pieces and even with a good amount of hair algae my sps grows and looks good minus the po4 spike which was from a lack of maintaining my GFO. I'm confident the scrubber will be my answer to nuisance algae and allow me to keep the same minimal maintenance game plan going.

I'm only posting this because I like your idea about heavier feeding being beneficial. But I think heavier feeding and still keeping the po4 down is where its really at. That's my goal, but without a skimmer.

LOL. Thanks, but trust me...the nuisance algae is there. It's just no fun taking pictures of it. It started growing in some large clumps behind the rock structure and then a little bryopsis started rearing its ugly head in the shaded portions. Sponge growth has accelerated in the last couple months, so the nutrients are there. I did start going the Kent Tech M route by raising the magnesium, but opted for a more gentle approach. I loaded up on Nassarius snails, Red Leg Hermit crabs, 3 emerald crabs and a lawnmower blenny in the last couple weeks and they seem to be doing a great job keeping it at bay. Some spots have already been eliminated. Rather than worry about my phosphate levels and eliminating all the hair algae, I'm going to hone my "coral whisperer" skills and try and see if I can keep the cleanup crew happy with a little algae to eat as well as keep the SPS colored up and growing. It's that happy balance I guess we're all looking for.

Very interesting and thanks for sharing. When I started reef keeping about 13 years ago I fed like mad, never thought of testing phosphate.nitrates, just kept the system 'looking good'
i chucked in natural unheated saltwater for a water change and fed my fast growing amount of news up to 8 times a weekend day and twice in the week. could grow broomstick in there.
went all 'modern and ulna', it sucked and broke down my tank recently due to lack of results and I'm starting Uni part time while working full time.
Can we live without a reef.. obviously not.
so, a 2 foot cube sprang to life and already I run it much more 'lets see what happens' than getting hung up on parameters.. results.. i have better growth in 4 week than I had in the last 18 months..
just my few thoughts

This sounds like my last tank. I was vodka dosing and things went south from there. Granted, I wasn't armed with as much information as I am now, but I'm just not cut out to follow a ULNS approach. I'd love to see some pictures of your tank. It sounds like you've got some interesting concepts to share!
 
i'd have to agree people have gone a bit overboard with the low nutrient thing. that is why we are seeing so many why are my corals pale threads going around. My tank has always done best skimmed, fed, and twice a month water changes with lots of light. I dont use GFO or GAC unless things are out of whack for whatever reason. I definitely would never carbon dose again. IMO all those techniques are good for certain circumstances, but the majority of reefers can do well using good RO/DI water, a decent skimmer, lots of light, water changes, and full fish. The other stuff is just tank crashes waiting to happen for most of us. Now as tanks age I have seen issues with bound PO4 so maybe I'm all wrong about no GFO all the time, but who knows. A lot of times I think people keep wanting to add fish throughout the life of their tank and eventually shift it to a point where the natural filtration cannot keep up with the bioload.
 
I think you have some interesting ideas. I also think may reefers starve their reef in order to keep nutrients low, this is where the problem starts. Acropora are big eaters and certainly need more than just light. I generally feed my tank 2 to 3 times a day, to quantify about a pound of frozen food a month. My opinion after keeping acros at a obsessive level for 6 years is the more food you can feed your tank and still keep nutrients low the better the acros will do. Assuming all other normal parameter are keep stable, one alk spike can kill a acro.

My phosphate is a little low today but not worried about starvation, as I fed them a large piece of rod's food and oyster feast.
<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/phosphatemeter.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/phosphatemeter.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo phosphatemeter.jpg"/></a>

I am not really sure if .05 ppm counts as high and 5 to 10 on nitrate. I agree those levels are better than 0 phosphate at the expense of feeding.

PHOTO JUST TAKEN TODAY WITH LOW PHOS/NITRATE
<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/abrotonides.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/abrotonides.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo abrotonides.jpg"/></a>
 
I think you have some interesting ideas. I also think may reefers starve their reef in order to keep nutrients low, this is where the problem starts. Acropora are big eaters and certainly need more than just light. I generally feed my tank 2 to 3 times a day, to quantify about a pound of frozen food a month. My opinion after keeping acros at a obsessive level for 6 years is the more food you can feed your tank and still keep nutrients low the better the acros will do. Assuming all other normal parameter are keep stable, one alk spike can kill a acro.

My phosphate is a little low today but not worried about starvation, as I fed them a large piece of rod's food and oyster feast.
<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/phosphatemeter.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/phosphatemeter.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo phosphatemeter.jpg"/></a>

I am not really sure if .05 ppm counts as high and 5 to 10 on nitrate. I agree those levels are better than 0 phosphate at the expense of feeding.

PHOTO JUST TAKEN TODAY WITH LOW PHOS/NITRATE
<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/abrotonides.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/abrotonides.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo abrotonides.jpg"/></a>

toothman, your acros look incredible. There are many way to skin this cat. It seems there are two methodologies at play here aside from a low nutrient approach:

1. Feed your fish and corals as much as they can eat and still try and keep your nitrate and phosphate undetectable.

2. Feed your fish and corals as much as they can eat and try and keep the nutrients from rising too much, but not attempting to keep undetectable levels.

I'd be interested to hear from people that have undetectable levels what your lighting, photoperiod and alkalinity are, as well as those that have a "higher" nutrient measurement what your lighting, photoperiod and alkalinity are. Explain where you believe your sweet spot on each of these components is, as well as what you use as your barometer to keep things in check. My "canary in the coal mine" is usually a slight recession of coralline algae followed by a slight green hue on the live rock. This has been a good way of knowing that either alkalinity and/or magnesium or calcium need to be adjusted or it's time to change out the gfo and start removing as much detritus as possible from the tank and sump during a water change. This usually brings things into balance for me.

I think there may be some similarities/parallels in each camp, as well as some distinct differences between the two that we may be able to learn from.
 
i'd have to agree people have gone a bit overboard with the low nutrient thing. that is why we are seeing so many why are my corals pale threads going around. My tank has always done best skimmed, fed, and twice a month water changes with lots of light. I dont use GFO or GAC unless things are out of whack for whatever reason. I definitely would never carbon dose again. IMO all those techniques are good for certain circumstances, but the majority of reefers can do well using good RO/DI water, a decent skimmer, lots of light, water changes, and full fish. The other stuff is just tank crashes waiting to happen for most of us. Now as tanks age I have seen issues with bound PO4 so maybe I'm all wrong about no GFO all the time, but who knows. A lot of times I think people keep wanting to add fish throughout the life of their tank and eventually shift it to a point where the natural filtration cannot keep up with the bioload.

I think you may be on to something... less technology more biology ( thats someone elses sig but I like to use it). Imo carbon dosing, zeo, bio pellets, and feeding fish every other day type methods are avoidable. BALANCE and STABILITY are KEY. Live rock & sand, skimmer, macro algae, gac and gfo when needed, water changes, dosing and FISH POOP works for hobbiest with good husbandry. JMO's
 
There isn't one key thing that makes sps work.

You need to provide a stable environment, with clean water, food and proper lighting. Sure you can get away with less then ideal conditions as SPS can be hardy but it's sort of like you can get away with 1 of 4 thing being off. It doesn't matter which one but if you get 2 of 4 things stop growing and 3 of 4 things start crashing 4 of 4 they all die. (within reason of course).

ULNS, and carbon dosing are a means of removing waste from your tank to keep your water as clean as we can get it and a methodology of trying to keep your tank as clean as you can. It's not an reason to "not feed". It's something you do when you want to feed heavy. Carbon dosing allows you to have higher levels of bac which is good on it's own according to some people. I've run my tanks both ways. Right now I'm doing sort of a weak version of carbon dosing with a under-filled pellet reactor and a small amount of vodka, previously I just did a lot of water changes and that worked good but I had a very low fish load and wasn't feeding as much as I should at times. I'm hoping running a less then recommend amount of pellets and less then recommend amount of vodka will allow me to run my tank as I did before but give me just a little more wiggle room to have more fish and feed a little heavier.

If you let your tank get over polluted you will start to get green boring algae and it will kill your acros. If your phosphates get to high it will stunt the growth of your acros and they will not bind things correctly and be brittle.

IMOP There isn't any reason not to run GFO, and GAC all the time unless you are trying to save a buck or two, the same can be said of regular water changes, or using RO/DI.

@alex I've run my alk from 8 up to 10.5. I have low nutrients and feed as much as I can to get it at 0. When I carbon dose I shoot for 8-9 when I don't I shoot for a medium of 9ish but have gotten up to 10-10.5 for a few months here and there and not really worried about it as long as it's stable. I also run my lights for around 5:30 hours a day (I need to double check) Imop the best means for acceleration is stability and critical mass. When things are stable the corals just grow and it gets hard to keep things stable, and when they get big enough unless you are a coral farmer the optimizational tweaks aren't worth the risk to stability. Acros grow fast when they hit critical mass. From what I recall It took me longer to get from say 60ml a day to 100ml a day of alk/calc then it did from say 100ml a day to 200ml+ a day.
 
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