The Dirty SPS Tank Club

If you read the paper by Zac Forsman from the Hawaii Institute of Marine Biology published in 2011 on the results of different commercially available artificial coral food feedings being tested you'd keep using the chilli and reef roids :)

' The average overall (pooled across species) weight increase for
the control (filtered seawater) was 2.1%, which was lower than
all other treatments. The tanks fed with Oyster Eggs, and
Roti-Feast had slightly higher overall mean weight increase
(2.7% and 3.1% respectively), but these differences were not
significant according to post-hoc tests. Reef Chili and
Reef-Roids on the other hand show a comparatively large
overall weight increase (6.5% and 7.5% respectively). When
the contribution of each species was examined, it became clear that M. capitata showed the highest increase in weight,
followed by P. damicornis, with Reef Chili and Reef-Roids
showing the largest increases (Figure 4). '

The bottled garbage many use were also tested.......

' Adding food supplements (MicroVert, MarineSnow
Plankton Diet, Phytoplan, and Salifert) at the manufacturers'
recommended dosages, resulted in no significant difference to
the controls (ANOVA, P ¼ 0.604). Unlike the feeding experiments
in filtered seawater above, these comparisons among
the types of coral food (pooled over dose) indicated no significant
differences with controls (ANOVA: M. capitata P ¼ 0.30,
P. compressa P ¼ 0.368). Adding either 3 or 10 times the recommended
dose generally resulted in a decrease in growth
(Figure 5). There was a significant trend towards decreased
growth with increasing dosage (pooled over food types) for
M. capitata (r2 ¼ 0.95, P , 0.024). Although the trends for
P. compressa (r2 ¼ 0.59, ns) and for both species pooled
together (r2 ¼ 0.80, ns) were not significant (Figure 6), the
trends were in the same direction and had a similar slope.
Phytoplan and Salifert treatments consistently had the
lowest growth rates for both species although these differences
were not significant. '
 
I never had luck with oyster feast and all it did was cause my tank to be slime coated. I use coral frenzy or reef chili daily.

I spot feed my oyster feast and have not had much luck getting a feeding response either. I have been doing it consistently for 3 months at night.

I have some reef chili coming in the mail tomorrow. I'm very interested to see what the response is.
 
I spot feed my oyster feast and have not had much luck getting a feeding response either. I have been doing it consistently for 3 months at night.

I have some reef chili coming in the mail tomorrow. I'm very interested to see what the response is.

I spot fed oyster feast, 1-3 drops per 25 gallons, tried everything and the corals made no difference. The slime/fuzz was directly related to it.

Switched back to coral frenzy and just tried reef chili this past week. I get immediate response with more PE, growth, and colors. I mix a squirt bottle of it each day and dose my tanks throughout the day. Corals have really taken off and new areas I frag grow over in a week and start popping new points.

P04 was at .02 and has increased slightly and finally my skimmer is pulling things out. The corals have never looked better or grown faster.
 
So the consensus is Reef Chili and Coral Frenzy? Any thoughts on Reef Roids? Based purely on looks, I thought the foods such as Reef Chili were designed for SPS due to the large particle size.
 
How do you like the deltec sc1455. I was looking at that skimmer myself


QUOTE=biggles;22083933]Hi mate, i use a Deltec SC1455 which is rated for at least twice my total water volume. I only run such a largely over rated skimmer because i feed a lot each day. I have live rock in the sump as well purely for filtration. I have used a turkey baster in the sump about 6 times to stir anything up which usually creates a filthy display but the acros PE goes nuts when the water clouds up so i also throw some reef roids in at the same time.
I dose bi carb soda from the supermarket, SPA water hardener (calcium chloride) from the pool shop and Seachem magnesium. I also keep potassium at 400 since seeing first hand the difference raising it from 300 has made in just 2 weeks to both colors and growth.
I think using all quality fresh live rock allows one to achieve what most call 'tank maturity' much sooner than when starting with sterile dry rock and my sump and display have healthy populations of pods and mysis, i don't use socks etc. I always like to have a small amount of algae visible at all times but nothing that the snails can't sort out in a day or two.[/QUOTE]
 
My tank is pretty dirty. I feed often and heavy. I try to feed natural low phosphate foods and do regular water changes. Algae will grow anyplace there is light and the fish cant reach to graze. However long term, in my sumps, most of my rocks eventually clean up so that they stay pink and algae quits growing.

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Ridiculous! Phenomenal reef.
 
Great thread. I've been running my latest tank "clean" for the past 8 months and have had algae and bleaching coral issues. I read this thread last week and decided to start feeding 3x a day (morning feed fish, after work feed fish, lights out feed corals). I'm already seeing a positive change in the SPS corals that have been having issues. I wish I would have taken pics last week but I was a little skeptical and lazy. I'll start taking pics tomorrow to document changes in hopes of adding another turn-around story to this method of keeping a thriving reef.

Thanks to all the contributors on this thread.

-J
 
I had been trying to keep my tank clean for years but I'm done. I took my biopellets offline and started feeding more about two weeks ago. While my tank isn't pure sps there's plenty in there. From older colonies to frags Iv added a few months ago, it's all looking betters.
 
I probably fall into the "dirty tank" group. I do not run any filtration other than an oversized skimmer and weekly 10% water changes. My feeding is not super heavy, but generous. All my corals have nice color and grow at a reasonable pace. There are many paths to the same goal so whatever works.
 
Do you dirty tank members run an ATS? I have just started an ATS after an uncontrollable algae out break that I could only cure by removing and scrubbing all the rock. Over the months that I had algae, and before, I was running GFO and carbon, but got algae anyway.

I am a bit gun shy about running a dirty tank. How do you keep algae under control?
 
Ime, a large and varied cuc can make all the difference. I use about every snail out there, including

Mexican turbos
Turbos
Nerite
Cerinth
Astrea
Trochus

I find each prefers a slightly different algae and a varied crew handles everything under the sun.

I also use a tripnuestes gratilla urchin and a couple hermits.
 
Great thread, thanks and congrats for starting and keeping it going. I too have what some would call a dirty tank, with phosphates close to 0.1 and nitrates at 10. The display is 350G's with another 350G's in sump and additional connected tanks (frag, mantis, refugium), mostly sps with three large clams, a few larger lps and an assortment of zoas, paly's, xenia and gorgonians. I get my nutrients naturally, have never fed my corals but do feed my many fish very well. I've got about 60 fish, including 9 tangs, which are fed a combination of flakes, NLS pellets, frozen mysis and nori sheets between 2-3 times a day.

Although I'm pleased with how my tank looks, I don't test for anything other than alkalinity frequently and when I recently tested my phosphates and nitrates and found them to be at the reported level, I got very worried. Knowing that nothing good happens quickly in this hobby I resisted the urge to make a big change and decided to do my research. This thread has been very helpful and reassuring.

Some pictures below....





and an earlier FTS...



On a related note, the only real algae I get is in my in-line 90G frag tank. Lighting is also with T5's, and flow is decent. Not sure why I get so much here but so little in the display.




Andrew
 
Great thread, thanks and congrats for starting and keeping it going. I too have what some would call a dirty tank, with phosphates close to 0.1 and nitrates at 10. The display is 350G's with another 350G's in sump and additional connected tanks (frag, mantis, refugium), mostly sps with three large clams, a few larger lps and an assortment of zoas, paly's, xenia and gorgonians. I get my nutrients naturally, have never fed my corals but do feed my many fish very well. I've got about 60 fish, including 9 tangs, which are fed a combination of flakes, NLS pellets, frozen mysis and nori sheets between 2-3 times a day.



Although I'm pleased with how my tank looks, I don't test for anything other than alkalinity frequently and when I recently tested my phosphates and nitrates and found them to be at the reported level, I got very worried. Knowing that nothing good happens quickly in this hobby I resisted the urge to make a big change and decided to do my research. This thread has been very helpful and reassuring.



Some pictures below....











and an earlier FTS...







On a related note, the only real algae I get is in my in-line 90G frag tank. Lighting is also with T5's, and flow is decent. Not sure why I get so much here but so little in the display.









Andrew


Nice looking reef!
 
There are some really sweet tanks posted - nicely done.
I don't test for phosphates & nitrates but with a heavy bio-load I know I'm not even close to a ULNS so I would likely fall into the "dirty tank" catagory. That said, over all the colors are okay for the most part however I still have some corals that remain uncooperative which I dub as "under performing" pieces - healthy but just not living up to their color potential. Although that too can change week to week - I find it hard to keep everything happy all the time.
Anyway below are a few pictures from my tank from about a month ago so you'll get the idea.

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reflect_zpsfky3hoju.jpg
 
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