I would like to have some sps survive in my softy tank. I have 250w mh 20k so lighting should be ok. I run carbon and phosphate remover. I would say I have moderate flow. Every time I get an "easy" sps they bleach out on me within a month. They start to grow then start turning white. Can having too many softies be the cause? What factors must be different from softies, in order to have success with sps corals?
The keys for SPS survival are?
- Thread starter tent boy
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Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
How often are you changing your carbon?
Maybe it's time to start testing calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium...
Maybe it's time to start testing calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium...
Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
exactly what "easy" SPS have you tried?
what species of softy corals do you have? (No need to identify down to species- genera/family will do)
what's your water change schedule?
what species of softy corals do you have? (No need to identify down to species- genera/family will do)
what's your water change schedule?
Posted pictures as a good many of these corals I don't know their names. Gary, The last thing I lost was a green slimer from Diver Dick. Got some other stuff from Dick that suffered the same fate (dont remember the names). They were well encrusted solid frags. Were good for about 4 months then turned white. Have lost at least 15 sps frags in 8 months. They never really start to grow. The red planet and cap I got from you is growing very slowly but is alive (even after I forgot it for a day behind the stand in bags. I was hiding it from the wife). I do 50 gallon changes every month. 170 gallon tank with 40 gallon sump. Msx250 skimmer with refugium. My ph has never fluctuated in the year I have had the tank. Is it possible kit is bad? LPS corals are doing fine.
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Gary Majchrzak
Team RC
how's that big chalice doing?
(what a testimony to the hardiness of my coral frags!)
Mind if I borrow that someday?
(what a testimony to the hardiness of my coral frags!)
Mind if I borrow that someday?
In my opinion keys are: steady calcium and alkalinity, low nutrients: nitrate, phosphate and organic carbon, steady sg 1.026 =/- .001,heavy alternating flow.
Techniques include: running gac (granulated activated carbon), heavy skimming, a reliable and consistent dosing routine for calcium and alkalinity, using gfo and/ or alternative PO4 removal methods, mesuring and managing NO3 levels via reactors. live rock , deep sand bed, chaeto refugia, carbon dosing and regular cleaning and water changes.
Techniques include: running gac (granulated activated carbon), heavy skimming, a reliable and consistent dosing routine for calcium and alkalinity, using gfo and/ or alternative PO4 removal methods, mesuring and managing NO3 levels via reactors. live rock , deep sand bed, chaeto refugia, carbon dosing and regular cleaning and water changes.
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
You know I made my previous comment tongue in cheek. 
I'm wondering if your Ca and Alk fluctuate, as tmz noted. You may want to more closely monitor Ca and Alk and see what impact your additions are having. Ideally, you'd be dosing the proper amount on a daily basis. If you squirt two-part in every few days, your Ca, and more importantly, your Alkalinity will spike and drop. Steady levels are key. Big gains and drops in alk will have a detrimental effect on SPS.
Try this:
Test your Ca, Mg, and alk using a good test kit (like Salifert) this evening before lights out. Don't do a water change or add anything tonight or tomorrow. Measure Ca, Mg, and alk again at the same time of day. The difference will be your tank's daily consumption. (If you don't see a change, repeat the process the next day until you do.) Our goal is to determine the daily consumption of Ca, Mg, and alk.
Then use this calculator to determine how much two-part you'll need to add: http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html
Let us know if you've got any more questions. This should get you started on your way.
I'm wondering if your Ca and Alk fluctuate, as tmz noted. You may want to more closely monitor Ca and Alk and see what impact your additions are having. Ideally, you'd be dosing the proper amount on a daily basis. If you squirt two-part in every few days, your Ca, and more importantly, your Alkalinity will spike and drop. Steady levels are key. Big gains and drops in alk will have a detrimental effect on SPS.
Try this:
Test your Ca, Mg, and alk using a good test kit (like Salifert) this evening before lights out. Don't do a water change or add anything tonight or tomorrow. Measure Ca, Mg, and alk again at the same time of day. The difference will be your tank's daily consumption. (If you don't see a change, repeat the process the next day until you do.) Our goal is to determine the daily consumption of Ca, Mg, and alk.
Then use this calculator to determine how much two-part you'll need to add: http://reef.diesyst.com/flashcalc/flashcalc.html
Let us know if you've got any more questions. This should get you started on your way.
I think this definitely is your problem. I would switch to daily dosing and weekly testing, after the first couple weeks or so. I would also suggest reserching daily kalk dripping - you'll still have to use the two part but less of it.
OK sounds like I know what to do. I didn't realize that the perameters needed to be that stable. Hopefully that is the only problem.
I believe that phos and nitrates are low as I have no algae.
Cali- if you are ever in the area you are welcome to stop by and grab zoas you dont have already.
I believe that phos and nitrates are low as I have no algae.
Cali- if you are ever in the area you are welcome to stop by and grab zoas you dont have already.
mr.maroonsalty
New member
For me nutrient control is as much or more of a limiting factor as anything else. I'm an sps tank novice, making the move from keeping "mixed tanks," and am a wee bit amazed by the next level of clean that I need to maintain. If you were to clean your fuge, I'm curious how much detritus you might find is stashed in there?
thompsontwins
New member
stability and mg overlooked
Conesus_Kid
Premium Member
Are they dry and you mix them?
If so, then I'm pretty sure it's anhydrous CaCl2 and Baked Baking soda. If they're mixed with water, then they're Randy's recipe 1.
for sps I would suggest having a high flow fuge with little to no sand for easy cleaning. if your fuge is going to collect nutrients you're better off without one, IMO.
in other words, that "next level of clean" is something that can mostly be taken care of by designing your system specifically for that purpose.
mr.maroonsalty
New member
exactly... although instead of high flow chaeto only, I took the sand out of my sump, and do bi-weekly complete breakdown using a dedicated shop-vac to get the crud out. I wish I had room so I could switch out a filter sock every three days; and then there is the detritus the accumulates in the hard to reach places under the rock-work in my mt that I need to get a syphon to during my regular water changes
For me the best indicator of how things are doing is the pink coralline algae (not the reds or purples) when its waxing things are good, when waning, I can count on faded acros and slow tissue recession.Similar threads
