The official WP40 running on controller thread.

Exactly, easiest way to sync these pumps. There's no way to get anti sync without controller of some kind..
You would need to modify the three pin plug to one pump to plug the 24v supply straight to the pump. You would then need to T off the 0-5v signal wire from the controller connected to the other pump to share the wire between the two. Both pumps should then run the same patterns from the single controller.
 
Exactly, easiest way to sync these pumps. There's no way to get anti sync without controller of some kind..

You could use same method but with a SPDT relay to send signal to one pump then the other via a simple lamp timer if you want to keep it easy (but I guess that would count as another controller :lolspin: )
 
It seems as if this thread may be dead but if anyone is interested I did take some scope shots of the "VA" control signal coming out of the Jebao control box. It is a 0V to 5V PWM signal. The signals are as follows:

H1 - Constant 5VDC
H2 - 206us positive pulse width, 50us negative pulse width.
H3 - 156us positive pulse width, 100us negative pulse width.
Night Mode - 146us positive pulse width, 110us negative pulse width.

I'm kind of curious on why everybody is using an analog signal to replace the PWM control signal? Does the pump not really care? Does it just average the PWM signal anyway? Hope someone can shed some light on this for me? I have the pic's of the scope shots if anyone is still interested.

Thanks!
 
That seems to be the case! Thanks NeveSSL! I was manly curious because it seems quite a few people are using a 3rd party or DIY controller and filtering there PWM signal into a DC voltage? What's the point? Thought I might be missing something here.
 
Also if you keep the signal as a PWM seems like you would be able to use a logic inverter if you wanted to have two pumps with opposite pulse times.

Josh
 
I think most of them have 10v DC out and just match the voltage. Its just straight-up DC with a voltage divider down to 5v. :)

Brandon
 
I still stuck on how to wire . Anyone please help to show step by step

I read all in manhattan reef and Reefcentral but still can't get it :headwally:

Thanks in advance
 
The Manhattan reef stuff is step by step.
Where are you having problems.

Here it is again...

For Neptune Apex:

You will need:

A Reef Angel Jebao Cable. That's it. No need for the Jebao controller box anymore.
------
or

0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control
-----------------
Cat5e ethernet cord

Wire nuts
or
Solder and heat shrink tubing

(optional) Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 6A) stevesleds.com has some.

Directions:

Unscrew the controller casing

P2190005_zps108350d0.jpg


24- is blue
24+ is reddish brown
VA is green yellow and remains untouched

Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord to the pump. You can also desolder the wires from the 24+ and 24- points, but this is more difficult.

Connect solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely. This makes it easier to work with.

The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-

The first left side -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires

The next right side +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points

For the wire to connect to the apex VDM ports, you can buy the Neptune cable ~$15, or do the following.

Cut one end off a Cat 5e ethernet cord.

Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)

When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white wire, green wire is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4

On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.

Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.

Create profiles to control the pump. The original controller mode are kept, so you can use the Apex to set intensity.

The easiest profiles are ramping profiles throughout the day, like this:

Outlet - Base_Var1 (for V1)

Set PM-Else
If Time 07:00 to 10:00 Then AM-Else
If Time 10:01 to 21:00 Then Day-Else
If Time 21:01 to 23:00 Then PM-Else
If FeedA 000 Then Feed

(feed would be a profile to allow the feed mode)

Profile name: AM-Else

Control type: Ramp

Ramp time (minutes): 1

Start Intensity: 60
End Intensity: 60

(this makes the pump run at 60% power, but if you use the ELSE mode on the controller, it simulates reef crest mode on a vortech, but at 60% overall power)

A midday profile can be made to use a higher intensity, and the PM one can use a lower one.

This barely touches on what can be programmed. If you set the pump on H1 (full power), you can create your own wave mode, like this (borrowed from Kenargo's Tunze profiles)

Profile name: Day Rt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 4
On time: 8
Off time: 0

Profile name: Day Lt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 0
On time: 8
Off time: 4

(This creates a huge syncronized wave between two pumps)

You can also use the Weather profiles to control the pump. The Vortech profiles do not work.

If anyone can create other profiles, share!
 
It seems as if this thread may be dead but if anyone is interested I did take some scope shots of the "VA" control signal coming out of the Jebao control box. It is a 0V to 5V PWM signal. The signals are as follows:

H1 - Constant 5VDC
H2 - 206us positive pulse width, 50us negative pulse width.
H3 - 156us positive pulse width, 100us negative pulse width.
Night Mode - 146us positive pulse width, 110us negative pulse width.

I'm kind of curious on why everybody is using an analog signal to replace the PWM control signal? Does the pump not really care? Does it just average the PWM signal anyway? Hope someone can shed some light on this for me? I have the pic's of the scope shots if anyone is still interested.

Thanks!

I used both a logic analyzer and oscilloscope.
The PWM output is 8 bit with 1us per pulse.
A high is 254us and a low is 1 us (so it is not exactly constant 5v on H1, though the difference is minimal).

Arduino 5v pwm works just fine on the pump.
Here is what w2 wave form looks like in anti sync mode

96b1b6d6-6b56-4165-866f-0d15ef190878.jpg


That waveform on my diy controller is displayed real time
http://youtu.be/JOaR_DREpTQ
 
I have my Apex controller in the basement with the display tanks in the first floor. I have two display tanks and want to run two wp40 in the larger tank and two wp25 in the smaller tank. The two display tanks are roughly 10 feet apart. From what I gather, I can run an RJ45 cable from Apex controller in the basement all the way to the display tank and then connect them to the pump using Reef Angel cables. Two questions.

1. Can I connect one cable from V1/V2 to two wp40 and similarly from V3/V4 to two wp25? By doing this can I independently control each of the pumps?

2. Buying four RA cables is going to be $100 plus shipping. This runs counter to the philosophy of saving money by using Jebao pumps :-). I see a post in this thread of making your own cable instead of an RA cable. Where can I find more information on that? If there is a pictorial that will greatly help.

TIA.
 
I'm not going to comment on question 1 becuase I don't have an Apex and don't want to give you the wrong info, but as far as making your own cables, yes it can be done.

I know people have done it, I tried, but I'm terrible with a soldering iron and shorted something out.

The PC board of on the RA Cable is fairly simple.
Here is a layout of it.

file.php
 
2. Buying four RA cables is going to be $100 plus shipping. This runs counter to the philosophy of saving money by using Jebao pumps :-). I see a post in this thread of making your own cable instead of an RA cable. Where can I find more information on that? If there is a pictorial that will greatly help.

I have not made any cables yet but I was able to buy the water-tight connectors and the power cable for about $20 for 5 on Aliexpress. If you send me a PM I can give you the link if wanted.

-Paul
 
They've gone up a lot on Aliexpress. I found 5 pairs on eBay for $15 here.

Edit: No they've not. :) I was thinking they used to be $16 for 10, but I don't think that was ever the case. Sorry about that!

Brandon
 
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