The T5 Q&a Thread

[The Grim Reefer]

I've heard that the bluer lights encourage coraline growth? hope i'm right.

IME coraline will grow under any color light but doesn't like higher intensity.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

hey grim, what's your opinion on the GE bulbs? Under what circumstances do you use them?

Like them, very good at bringing out green and yellow colors and have very good PAR, AND CHEAP!!!!

I prefer to have 3 blue lamps per one GE but they can work 50/50 if you want a more white look.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

But with it being 30 high, could I have clams? I'm a clam junkie! I was told by a few LFS's today that because the tanks 30 high, and if I want clams I MUST use MH's!

ATI Powermodule sitting right on the tank I would try. Other than that if you want lots of clams I would do halides.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I also have a TX5 and thinking of getting 3 blue+, 1 white actinic, and not sure about the last one either GE, Aquablue, Aquasun, not really sure.

Aquablue if you prefer a little more Blue look, like 18 K maybe and the GE if you want a more 14K looks with bright greens and yellows. The Aquasun will give you a purple tint. If you have a bunch of purple and pink critters it might look cool if you are OK with the purplish look.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Hi. I was wondering if you guys could help me pick out new bulbs. My wife is getting me them for x-mas...
Here is what I currently have.

Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Aquasun
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Super Actinic
Aquablue
Blue Plus

I really dont like how my tank looks with all the lights on. It's because of the aquasuns. The make the tank look pinkish.. I picked the aquasuns because they were high on par. I wonder if I could get my tank bluer without losing too much par. I am not really brand specific, there are just sooooo many choices I get dizzy!! Please HELP me out!!

Change the front Aquasun to a UVL Actinic White which is a little less red with some actinic kick. Replace the second Aquasun with the GE 6500K Daylight. The Ivory color of the 6500K will wash much of the pink look of the UVL lamp out but you will still get the red spectrum to brighen up pinks and the GE will make some green colors show up better.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Grim,

Thanks for the help!

Here's a pic of the new lights. I used a coffee filter to get the white balance so it's pretty close to how it looks in case anyone was interested in the setup.

front
blue plus
midwater
blue plus
ge 6500k
blue plus
blue plus
back

You have some healthy looking critters in there. With all the flesh colored coral in there I would be tempted to add another reddish lamp just to see if you can get more color out of them. Maybe experiment by placing the Midwater in a dusk/dawn slot just to see what happens. I always wanted to try that. If it looks cool post us up a pic/

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Im at witts end with these retro T5s. 2X660 icecaps 8T5's

So I decided to lower the T5 lights I got so there about 4" off the water. Made a nice little shelf and disconnected the endcaps, but left all the wires in the same as Im just going to extend the wires down to the new bulb position.

After doing this I mounted all the endcaps and extention wire to the new shelf hooked it all back up and only one ballast lit four lamps. The other four lamps just flicker on for a second and then shut off.

After playing with the 8 endcaps to the bulbs that are not lighting for the last 6 hrs, I decided to pull out the trusty Ohm meter and test the lines. There doesnt seem to be any problems with the lines to the bulbs and back and the jumpers seem ok as well.

I thought it might be the ballast so I disconnected the one that was working and plugged it up to the non working side and the same thing happens on then off. But it works like a champ on the other four bulbs as we speak. Two of the four bulbs dont light as bright for the split second as the other two maybe this might be something.

Im fustrated and tired and need some help. Im ready to sell the set up for some MH.

Watch the lamps when you turn on the ballast. Take note if any don't flash at the ends. A bad lamp or a loose connection will cause the ballast to shut down. Check the pins on those 4 lamps for any signs of arcing. If you remounted the endcaps it is possible you left too much space between one set so the lamp doesn't make good contact and the ballast is shutting down from the arc.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

So, what if you had 2 24" T5s on a 12" deep tank? Individual reflectors of course. What coral CAN'T these support? This may end up lighting my frag tank, that's why I ask.

I like a 20K MH color.

Would this be a place for a Blue plus and a fiji purple?

What colors does the fiji purple add to the mix? Does it bring out the reds w/o washing out the blues? How's its PAR compared to a blue plus or an aquablue?

Blue Plus and Fiji Purple is going to be a little purple but have pretty good PAR and look nice. Should be fine for anything placed under the lights.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

hey Grim I believe its time for me to get new bulbs i had these since dec 2008, I have a 72 inch constalation. Just wondering if any new better bulbs or combos you have tried that are better than the one i have now that you recomended to me last year. Im looking to promote growth, and make my corals pop, with a great overall look when all lights are on.

ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25 -
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus

the above is currently what i have

Drop the UVL 75/25 for an Actinic White (More red and PAR) and The Aquasun for an ATI Aquiablue. More PAR and about the same look, perhaps slightly less purple.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

grim you had posted for my 48"nova extreme pro:
4 ATI blue plus
1UVL actinic white
1 GE 6500K
question is what is the configuration for those bulbs starting from front-thanks for your reply

Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus
GE
Blue Plus
Blue Plus

 

[The Grim Reefer]

anybody knows whats the difference between par and light spectrum?

PAR is the rate at which light photons strike a target. Spectrum is the wavelength of light those photons are emitted from

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I have a 180 70x24x24. Would like to know if a 48 inch tek 8x54 would work and if not what would everyone recommend?

A 8 x 80 watt system would be best. The 60" lamps would cover that tank a lot better.

 

[robojet]

I have recently swapped fixtures on my display tank and frag tank because a couple of the lights on my display tank was having trouble..., and now after only a few days, my monti cap is starting to bleach. I need to know how to modify the bulbs to correct this. Here's the specs:

Original fixture on Display Tank was a 6x24w, not individual reflectors (front to back):
ATI Blue Plus
UVK Super Actinic
UVL AquaSun
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

New Fixture over Display Tank 4x24w, individual reflectors (front to back):
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aqua Sun
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

So what's my options?

THANKS!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

I have recently swapped fixtures on my display tank and frag tank because a couple of the lights on my display tank was having trouble..., and now after only a few days, my monti cap is starting to bleach. I need to know how to modify the bulbs to correct this. Here's the specs:

Original fixture on Display Tank was a 6x24w, not individual reflectors (front to back):
ATI Blue Plus
UVK Super Actinic
UVL AquaSun
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

New Fixture over Display Tank 4x24w, individual reflectors (front to back):
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aqua Sun
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

So what's my options?

THANKS!

Cut down on your daytime photoperiod, run the blue pluses 10 to 12 hours and try 1 or 2 hours for the other two for a few days then add an hour every few days to see what happens. If the coral is right under the lights you may need to go a little longer before upping the time.

 

[Pike614]

What are the tank dimensions?

Originally Posted by Pike614
Hey Grim,
I have 2 options, trying to get this canopy figured out...One uses a sunpod 150HQI fixture that I would add either 4 or 6 T5 bulbs to, the other is 8 T5 bulbs. Icecap retrofits here on 660 ballasts. Any feedback on which one to do? I have SPS near the top and chalices LPS on the sand. Also which bulbs would you recommend for each?
Thanks!!

tank is 24 x 24 x 30" water depth.

 

[jasony816]

so what would you think is more important the amount of par or does the spectrum of light for SPS corals?

PAR is the rate at which light photons strike a target. Spectrum is the wavelength of light those photons are emitted from

 

[robojet]

Thanks for the quick reply... I can't run the bulbs separate... it's all or nothing. I did cut down on the running time though... so maybe I'm on the right track. Maybe I'll cut the time down further.

Cut down on your daytime photoperiod, run the blue pluses 10 to 12 hours and try 1 or 2 hours for the other two for a few days then add an hour every few days to see what happens. If the coral is right under the lights you may need to go a little longer before upping the time.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally Posted by Pike614
Hey Grim,
I have 2 options, trying to get this canopy figured out...One uses a sunpod 150HQI fixture that I would add either 4 or 6 T5 bulbs to, the other is 8 T5 bulbs. Icecap retrofits here on 660 ballasts. Any feedback on which one to do? I have SPS near the top and chalices LPS on the sand. Also which bulbs would you recommend for each?
Thanks!!

tank is 24 x 24 x 30" water depth.

I'd do a 250 watt halide with 4 T5's.

8 T5's overdriven would work but it's going to draw as much current as the halide setup.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

so what would you think is more important the amount of par or does the spectrum of light for SPS corals?

PAR is most important but corals tend to use the blue green spectrum more efficiently according to some.

 

[jasony816]

interesting, so i guess i will keep the blubs with highest par in those spectrums would be best. what has the best par for the green spectrum?

PAR is most important but corals tend to use the blue green spectrum more efficiently according to some.